Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

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Jsheaffer
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Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Jsheaffer »

Good afternoon all. Im jason and im going to try the fs18 cnc rounded chine. This is my first build. I have recd the material glued the stringers and set up the jig. O have a few questions already.
1 the mdf molds in the pdf are labeled as bow d and e.tjey are not they are bow c and d. The only e mold is plywood which the instructions say should be reserved for later. Can someone confirm this for me.
2 this is a dumb one. Im ready to glue the cnc joints. As i underatand the process is to connect the joints, wet them with epoxy, lay fiberglass tape and rewet, the cover with plastic and pressure. What role if any do butt blocks play at thisbstage.
3 should i epixy and tape bothe sides of the pabels and bottom now or just the outside for now. Im pretty sure its outside firat then inside later.
4 last and dumbest..for the rounded chine the cnc has scores where all the cuts are..do i splice the pabels first and then make jigsaw cuts over the scores and through the splices or just cut the scores up to the splices. Sorry for the questions but i am very new to this.
5one last thing, when i glued the stringers together they cane together pretty easily but the cnc slots on the stringer plywood were a bit too narrow to fit over the mdf. Im worried about this because of the firat question. I rechecked and rechecked over and over but im sure the mdf mold with the curve is a c mold and not a d mold. Thanks for the feedback.

Dutch1
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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Dutch1 »

Hey Jason. I'll admit, I'm jealous of your CNC kit. That would have been nice. I think you are asking about splicing some long panels in one or two questions. I'll take a shot at answering those. I wouldn't rely on the piece of plastic and weight trick. That cost me a lot of time sanding later. Splice both sides, not just one. The long panels are pretty flimsy until you get everything stitched and by splicing one side it could splinter or break if it bent too much moving it around. Get a barrel roller and use it to lay the fiberglass down on the wood.

I did the following for my splices:
1) paint on some epoxy with a chip brush on the splice area where the fiberglass will lay.
2) lay the fiberglass tape on the splice
3) use the barrel roller to seat/press the fiberglass down on the wood (you may have to spread some more epoxy on the fiberglass to get it soaked). It will depend on how much epoxy you painted on at first. You want the fiberglass as close to the wood as possible. The barrell roller does this very well.
4) Once you have the fiberglass wetted out, squeegee out the excess epoxy and leave it alone. DO NOT cover with plastic.

I figured this out after some bad looking splices from using the plastic covered with a piece of wood and some weight trick. I will never do that again.

I have some long panel splice before and after pics on my build thread http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 7&start=20

Others here will have to answer the cnc, rounded chine and station questions. Good luck with your build!

Dutch1
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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Dutch1 »

I will add. Don't cover with plastic and add weight unless you have to... If the long panels wanted to warp I would lay plastic over it and add the weight. If it tries to warp the fiberglass would keep trying to lift up and you will know you have to weigh it down until it dries.

Jsheaffer
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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Jsheaffer »

Thanks for the feedback dutch. Thats seems logical to me i used too much weigth when gluing the transom and it led to some sanding. No big deal on the transom because its a small surface area. The whole boat however..different story.

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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by jacquesmm »

Jsheaffer wrote: Sun Jan 15, 2017 6:04 pm Good afternoon all. Im jason and im going to try the fs18 cnc rounded chine. This is my first build. I have recd the material glued the stringers and set up the jig. O have a few questions already.
1 the mdf molds in the pdf are labeled as bow d and e.tjey are not they are bow c and d. The only e mold is plywood which the instructions say should be reserved for later. Can someone confirm this for me.
Correct. That text must be some leftover from a "cut and paste" from another kit. In this kit, we had enough room on ply sheet to make the bow mold from plywood. I will correct the text.

2 this is a dumb one. Im ready to glue the cnc joints. As i underatand the process is to connect the joints, wet them with epoxy, lay fiberglass tape and rewet, the cover with plastic and pressure. What role if any do butt blocks play at thisbstage.
It's puzzle joints, there a no butt blocks. I wonder if you received the kit building notes. They show the differences between the kit and the standard boat.
Was there a a set of printed pages in the package? Sometimes, people overlook them while unpacking. That may also explain the bow mold question.

For the puzzle joints: do a dry run, assemble without epoxy. Once everything goes together smoothly, disassemble and coat the edges with epoxy. See pictures in our gallery. Put the parts on a sheet of plastic, press the puzzle together, cover with another plastic sheet, add a weight and let it cure.

3 should i epixy and tape bothe sides of the pabels and bottom now or just the outside for now. Im pretty sure its outside firat then inside later.
No tape over the puzzle joints.

4 last and dumbest..for the rounded chine the cnc has scores where all the cuts are..do i splice the pabels first and then make jigsaw cuts over the scores and through the splices or just cut the scores up to the splices. Sorry for the questions but i am very new to this.
In most cases, the kerfs (scores) are sufficient. If the panel does not bend enough, cut through the kerfs.

5one last thing, when i glued the stringers together they cane together pretty easily but the cnc slots on the stringer plywood were a bit too narrow to fit over the mdf. Im worried about this because of the firat question. I rechecked and rechecked over and over but im sure the mdf mold with the curve is a c mold and not a d mold. Thanks for the feedback.
The notches are tight, you may have to sand them a little bit. I design the notches with a 50th gap but if there is a little bit of humidity, it may not be enough. Sand them wider.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com

Jsheaffer
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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Jsheaffer »

Wow thanks for the rapid response. This answers everything. The kit has pictures of the cutouts. I recd a collection of pdfs some time ago six pages i think that are for the cnc cut but they refernece other pdf including one titled puzzle, have never recd those (i dont think) having said that im relieved that i have everything, im pretty much good to go. Shoukd have this all joined and ready for assembly by the end of the weeend. This forum is great.

Jsheaffer
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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Jsheaffer »

Hello all. Update on the boat.

Squared up and set the jig
Glued all the panels_just finished today. I had yo glue the hull panels first and then set up and do the side panels due to space limitation.s frankly im glad i did it this way in hindsight. Epixy is messy and has a little bit of a learning curve. The cnc puzzle joints are great and i would add that the rubber hammer is absolute must.

In regards to the epixy. My jounts seem strong but there is some bilubbling from the plastic wrinkling. My plan is to sand out the wrinkles and then apply ansecond liggtwr coat over the seams. Probably overkill because the joints seem ok, i was moving the pabels around by myself and didnt notice any issues. I have lots of pucs and will post at some point. My computer is old and diesnt like bateau for some reason so ill have to upload the pics from the bucket at work some time.

The assembly and cnc kit are really nice to work with, someone who knew what theybqere doing could have the pueces assembled and glued and probably hun in three day weekend. I have been scrambling at work due to a major accident that shutdown large parts of my hospital. Very long hours past two weeks but im still going to squeak work in this week. Ideally the boat is stitched and glues by next sunday. After that..fiberglass..learning curve is steep.

Jeff
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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Jeff »

Jason, send us some build photos when you have time!! Jeff

Jsheaffer
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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Jsheaffer »

Boat pre assembly:
20170111_160448[1].jpg

Jsheaffer
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Re: Jason fs 18 cnc build rounded chine

Post by Jsheaffer »

HUll laid out, ready for epoxy
20170121_104345[1].jpg

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