Boat Builder Central

Looks like the engine on my '96 Robalo 2140 was originally installed with a slight lean to port.  Since I have already removed it from the transom in order to do some other work, I would like to fill the original holes in and then redrill them so the engine sits perfectly vertical.  I plan to fill t...

Tapped the area yesterday and it sounds like just about all of it has to come out. :( Drew a cut line at the edge of the molded nonskid since there's not enough flat area to stay out of it. Gave up after that cause it was super hot in the cabin with the boat tarped...and I had to cut the grass. Will...

The cabin floor on my '96 Robalo 2140 has been soft ever since I bought the boat a few years ago. Given that my refurbishment is still ongoing I figured I might as well go ahead and address this now. I suspect the issue is due to the core becoming delaminated from top skin. So, I'm looking for a lit...

That's a Boat Leveler pump. I'm pretty sure Bennett's have always use the black lexan cover.

All of the Gradys I have owned had one length of PVC that ran from the forward bilge to the aft bilge with no openings into the fuel tank compartments. The tank compartment then had a separate drain to the aft bilge that was plugged with a standard rubber bilge plug. That plug remained in place all ...

I think he means he can't get the core pieces in in one piece because the remaining sections of the cap and liner prevent it. If you were to cut the last few inches of the cap off you could slide your core in from the top. That being said, if you run the core all the way up without sectioning in you...

I had planned to convert the forward tank compartment on my old 227 Seafarer to storage as well. It was going to be trailer kept so draining to the bilge was fine with me. I can see the reservation with a moored boat though. What you could do is build a gutter system around the opening and then rout...

Not yet. What is the best location to inspect them. Pull the floor panels that are over the tanks. Pull the floor supports. Pull the tanks. Check the areas where the floor supports screwed into the the stringers. Check the areas where the bulkheads intersect the stringers. There's no glass between ...

I would push your cut line about 2" closer to the center of the hatch to keep it away from the corners of the recess. For cutting across the motor well, go with the yellow line. Another thing to think about... Even it you raise the sides to be even with the center section, that is still a VERY ...

Are you planning to raise that little aft section of the floor so it's the same height as the main floor? If not, go with the green line. If so, red but keep it tight to the dip. Looks like you'll have enough of the lip around the hatch left to do your grinding and glassing w/out getting into the ha...