Boat Builder Central

It has move to a later point in the day.

What about using some white pigment additive to the epoxy?

Keep in mind that if the walk way is exposed to the sun you'll want to cover the epoxy with some UV inhibitor clear coat.

I was thinking about this... would a couple of layers of Formica laminate, fixed only in the middle, be just about perfect for a fairing board? That would make it extremely flexible on both inside and outside radius

That boat will turn heads. You'll have a hard time getting her in and out of the water. You'll be mobbed with drooling on lookers.

Fuzz, experience trumps book learning. You are probably right. GB, the mechanical advantage would be to the epoxy as the resistance to torsional force should be distributed over the entire glue surface. The fail point would be the mechanical bond of the epoxy to either the bearing or sleeve. Assumin...

MEK is the bad guy there. I love me some MEK though.

The LPU only had those solvents in the reducer. That primer should be fun.

It's the reducer that did that to me. No reducer and things stopped melting

Pretty slick with that cutlass there GB. I am wondering if you have plans for anything other than friction to keep the bearing from spinning in the tube? Every one I have dealt with had some form of set screw. Didn't he say there was an epoxy fillet holding it in place? I would think a ring of epox...

Browndog wrote: ↑Thu Aug 03, 2017 6:53 pm It is funny what we all grab for a weight when needed.

Just make sure it isn't alive. Neither the dog nor the wife were willing to cooperate. YMMV though.

Thanks Jacques.. endless second guessing.. I suppose I'm not alone, but ugh. Hardest part is to just "get it done" and stop trying to make a perfect build. The stitch and glue method is VERY forgiving for a first timer but can STILL turn out amazing finishes (Look for Eric1 and his buid f...