Boat Builder Central

It seems odd there is no adjustment, but if that is the case, I'd re-rig it. It wouldn't be hard and I could walk you through it. In the meantime, you could add some length just by putting a short length of rope with a sheet bend to the original part. I'm not telling you anything you don't know. But...

Great stuff, Jaysen. A disappointment? yer on the water, got a wife that will go along. No worries.

In the picture of the main, it looks as though the topping lift might be taut. You don't want that.

OK, got it. Fall guy is not wrong, but there is a downside to having the sink drain above the waterline, which is that the sink will probably only drain when at a berth or anchor. At least, it won't drain when you are heeled and the sink is on the low side. Maybe this isn't something that would both...

I feel like I must be missing something. All thru-hulls beneath the waterline should have ball valves. All hoses should be double-clamped with 100% stainless clamps. All should have soft wooden plugs on a lanyard next to the thru-hull. The white stuff around that pipe (what is that, galvanized??) gi...

Very sorry to hear that. Hope it's nothing serious!

I couldn't find what kind of plywood you decided on for the companionway boards.

Display? Readout?

Jaysen, great job handling this misadventure. :D Anchors are great safety gear. Tell me again why you don't have the anchor on the bow ready to release? I have rebuilt an outboard carb. Not that big of a deal. Nonetheless, I'm with you on the pro at this point. He'll probably run through everything ...

My concern is the force on the deck more than the entrance to the cleats. Lewmar has little mounting data for the classics I purchased so I had to use the EVO (same sizes) directions. They indicate that the mounting needs to be "directionally aligned with the force applied". I don't know ...