Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

On the FS13, no. Inside first then flip. You're boat may be different... I was just trying to give you a picture. I hope I didn't confuse you!

How would you fiberglass with all those pvc pieces in the way?

You glue in between the pvc and let the glue dry. Take the pvc and stitches out and finish gluing where the pvc was.

*** Please ensure you read the Corsair instructions! The FS13 is built slightly different than other boats. I only wanted to show you how I used pvc and stir sticks to position the plywood. ***

Good tips above: use spacers and start with very loose stitches.
You did not answer my question about the type of plywood or the kit.
Okume should take the shape, Meranti may not. A kit would eliminate measuring imprecision.
Whatever the type of wood, the problem is the two panels pushing against each other.
If you can't get them to bend, it is acceptable to trim the panels as in the picture below:

It does not detract from the strength. Feel free to create a gap there. It will be covered by many layers of fiberglass.
mark where they push against each other and trim.

I am cutting out the deck pieces and noticed there is a pretty good gap between the hull and the deck. Its about 3/4 at its widest. Problem? Too wide of putty but once I put some battens in I can fill it. Then fiberglass would go over that anyway.
OK to use some 1 by 6 treated pine for battens? I figure its all getting covered with epoxy anyway

Also the U bolt. Its there a specific one that works best? On the plans there is an arrow pointing to it that says Bow eye epco #136

The rope cleats go through the seats and the front of the deck?

What about the fasteners for the forestay and shrouds? where exactly do they go and how/where do I order them?

And i can just increase the camber by a half inch or so on the other side?

Jarret.brashear wrote: ↑Sun Sep 08, 2019 6:51 pm And i can just increase the camber by a half inch or so on the other side?

This is common: the sheer flares out during assembly and the decks need to be cut wider.
It can be prevented during the assembly by tightening the sheer with a batten, like a temporary rubrail but even if it happens, it's not a big deal, it does not affect the boats's performance.
It is one of the reasons I ask builders not to cut the deck pieces in advance.

If the deck is cut, double the cleats along the hull and fill the gap with putty. If it is not cut, take the dimensions for the decks from the assembled hulls and cut it to fit.

Important note: standard boat plans do not show the dimensions for those parts because the builder is supposed to take the dimensions from the hull.

What about the fasteners, u bolt, cleats?

Install them on backing plates. The backing plates are made of scarp plywood.
The plans show a suggested location for sailing hardware like blocks and cleats. You are free to put U bolts and extra hardware where you want but I would not add too much. Use the boat first, you can always add stuff later.

Well that's my point. I didn't think i could attach a cleat to the bow after the deck was completed. Also i can't really use it until i figure out where and how to attach the fasteners for the stays?