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Started building corsair 13. Cut out all the pieces. Noticed there are two pieces for the transom. I assume (hope) these were supposed to be glued together face to face to form a thicker piece? Not mentioned anywhere that I can find. There were no holes for stitches in the bow. Everywhere else did. Easy to drill, just seemed odd.
How are you supposed to know exactly where the frames go? Just by fit?
The plans mention "cut the bow mold" and thats basically it. Not exactly overwhelmed with detail here. The bottom panels toward the bow are not coming together well. Is the bow mold something thats supposed to help with that?

How do I fix that?

Loosen the two yellow ties. Make holes for at least two more ties, one at the very tip of the bottom panel and pull everything tight starting at the tip and going back to the blue ties.

I will reply to the other questions on Monday but Cape Man is right: give some slack to the other stitches and you should be able to bend the bow part of the bottom panels.

For the frames, I am certain that the location is shown somewhere on the plans. I"ll tell you where on Monday.

Yes!!! Another sailboat! We need more sailboat threads. The Corsair is a neat boat. Looking good so far

Ok I think i found the measurements for the frames. Anyone have any tips for where it says turn the hull over, block it, and check for symmetry? What is blocking it? I have to figure out how to level it before I can get any accurate measure. Good thing this doesnt have to be aerospace tolerances.

I absolutely cannot seem to get this any closer. The defect is about 1/2 an inch. I completely took off the bottom panel and zip tied it. It looked great once I got all that does except for an area of overlap on the underside. In the process of trying to fix that I broke the tie. I added more ties and redid it but I cant get it any closer. It just keep popping out.
As far as this area of overlap on the bottom, can I just plane it after I fiberglass the inside seams and flip it over? Is that ok?

Nice kitty stamps! Good to get the kids involved!

I noticed from the pictures that you don't have any spacers. Try looser stiches and place stir sticks in between the plywood every 4 - 6". I used 1/2" pvc on the inside of the ply to get the space. I'll see if I can find a picture later. Unless you cut something wrong, you can usually get that taken care of. But what you have is not way off!

Found one...

Jarret.brashear wrote: ↑Sun Aug 25, 2019 7:59 pm Ok I think i found the measurements for the frames. Anyone have any tips for where it says turn the hull over, block it, and check for symmetry? What is blocking it? I have to figure out how to level it before I can get any accurate measure. Good thing this doesnt have to be aerospace tolerances.

Check the picture above. I had to use blocks of wood to get and keep my bow from drooping and the hull fair. It was basically shims movedforward and backwards to adjust. That might be what the note was referring to.

So then you just fiberglassed the outside first?

On the FS13, no. Inside first then flip. You're boat may be different... I was just trying to give you a picture. I hope I didn't confuse you!

How would you fiberglass with all those pvc pieces in the way?

You glue in between the pvc and let the glue dry. Take the pvc and stitches out and finish gluing where the pvc was.

*** Please ensure you read the Corsair instructions! The FS13 is built slightly different than other boats. I only wanted to show you how I used pvc and stir sticks to position the plywood. ***

Good tips above: use spacers and start with very loose stitches.
You did not answer my question about the type of plywood or the kit.
Okume should take the shape, Meranti may not. A kit would eliminate measuring imprecision.
Whatever the type of wood, the problem is the two panels pushing against each other.
If you can't get them to bend, it is acceptable to trim the panels as in the picture below:

It does not detract from the strength. Feel free to create a gap there. It will be covered by many layers of fiberglass.
mark where they push against each other and trim.

I am cutting out the deck pieces and noticed there is a pretty good gap between the hull and the deck. Its about 3/4 at its widest. Problem? Too wide of putty but once I put some battens in I can fill it. Then fiberglass would go over that anyway.
OK to use some 1 by 6 treated pine for battens? I figure its all getting covered with epoxy anyway

Also the U bolt. Its there a specific one that works best? On the plans there is an arrow pointing to it that says Bow eye epco #136

The rope cleats go through the seats and the front of the deck?

What about the fasteners for the forestay and shrouds? where exactly do they go and how/where do I order them?

And i can just increase the camber by a half inch or so on the other side?

Jarret.brashear wrote: ↑Sun Sep 08, 2019 6:51 pm And i can just increase the camber by a half inch or so on the other side?

This is common: the sheer flares out during assembly and the decks need to be cut wider.
It can be prevented during the assembly by tightening the sheer with a batten, like a temporary rubrail but even if it happens, it's not a big deal, it does not affect the boats's performance.
It is one of the reasons I ask builders not to cut the deck pieces in advance.

If the deck is cut, double the cleats along the hull and fill the gap with putty. If it is not cut, take the dimensions for the decks from the assembled hulls and cut it to fit.

Important note: standard boat plans do not show the dimensions for those parts because the builder is supposed to take the dimensions from the hull.

What about the fasteners, u bolt, cleats?

Install them on backing plates. The backing plates are made of scarp plywood.
The plans show a suggested location for sailing hardware like blocks and cleats. You are free to put U bolts and extra hardware where you want but I would not add too much. Use the boat first, you can always add stuff later.

Well that's my point. I didn't think i could attach a cleat to the bow after the deck was completed. Also i can't really use it until i figure out where and how to attach the fasteners for the stays?

plenty of builders add hardware after paint, you just have to drill, fill, and re-drill any holes to make sure there isn't exposed wood.

I did... Next build i will do it before paint. Why? Because I wound up with "epoxy goop" all over the place. Sure i'm sloppy. But drips happen. So does stuff running out of the hole (even though it was super thick). then you have to sand all that crap off when means you have to paint it. Then you have blotchy paint since some is faded from use and some it fresh.

Or just don't be messy and be better at sanding than I am.

Exactly what part should I use as a stemhead fitting and how does it attach?

Anybody know where I can find this Ronstan RF292 wingnut pivot for the rudder? Or something comparable? Nothing comes up on Ronstans webside or anywhere else

I cant find anything called a Delrin sleeve that even approaches the diameter that I would need for the mast partner. Is this called something else?

Jarret.brashear wrote: ↑Sun Dec 08, 2019 2:07 pm I cant find anything called a Delrin sleeve that even approaches the diameter that I would need for the mast partner. Is this called something else?

No idea what size you're looking for, but these people have up to 120mm i.d., which seems like it would be plenty big enough:

https://www.eplastics.com/shapes/acetal-delrin/tube

Yes, find a local machine shop that has leftover of Delrin, they"ll know what to do. BTW, Delrin is a name brand. You can use other brands of HD plastic. Technically, it is an acetal sometimes named a POM.

For the wing nut, it's just a large wing nut. Any good size SS wing nut and bolt will do.

After about 8 months she floats

Oh Hell yes! Nice! Congrats. How did she handle? Looks like you had a decent wind.

Congrats, looks good.

Little windier than I might have liked for a first sea trial but she handled great.

Congrats Jarret!!! She looks beautiful on the water!!! Jeff