First question on my GV-13 build:
Should I completely finish the outside bottom, through painting, before flipping? Or should I fair it to pre-primer levels, flip and do the inside with seats, bulkheads, etc? If I do the latter, in theory, I could prime and paint the topsides without another flip, though the flip would make it easier.
Pros/Cons? Suggestions?
Mattkab's GV13 questions
- mattkab
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Mattkab's GV13 questions
Last edited by mattkab on Mon Jun 01, 2020 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: GV13 bottom finishing
That depends entirely on how easily you can flip it vs how likely you are to drip epoxy on your nice new paint job.
For a 13' boat I would go to primer on the sides. Bottom graphite epoxy? If painting the bottom I'd do that, then top coat the sides when done. Totally up to you, but that's what I'd do.
For a 13' boat I would go to primer on the sides. Bottom graphite epoxy? If painting the bottom I'd do that, then top coat the sides when done. Totally up to you, but that's what I'd do.
Re: GV13 bottom finishing
I would not finish paint the exterior sides before completing the inside you could take it to primer level and graphite bottom.
Boat is light and easy to flip several times!
Boat is light and easy to flip several times!
- mattkab
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Re: Mattkab's GV13 questions
Note: Edited the subject to keep all the technical questions for this build in one thread
I've read and re-read the build notes a few times, but can someone please validate this for me?
I've flipped the boat, and now I'm about to start working on tabbing in the inside construction. My plan is to fillet and tape the frames in place, and at the same time fillet and tape the seams and stringer pieces that "touch" the frame. I see the build notes on the overlapping stringer tape, so I'll do that as well. Once that's done, I'll covering the inside of the four hull pieces (and stringers) with biaxial cloth, followed by lightweight 4oz cloth.
This means each section of the boat will be essentially a self-contained. There won't be a continuous length of tape or cloth from bow-stern on the inside. I think that's the correct build sequence though?
I've read and re-read the build notes a few times, but can someone please validate this for me?
I've flipped the boat, and now I'm about to start working on tabbing in the inside construction. My plan is to fillet and tape the frames in place, and at the same time fillet and tape the seams and stringer pieces that "touch" the frame. I see the build notes on the overlapping stringer tape, so I'll do that as well. Once that's done, I'll covering the inside of the four hull pieces (and stringers) with biaxial cloth, followed by lightweight 4oz cloth.
This means each section of the boat will be essentially a self-contained. There won't be a continuous length of tape or cloth from bow-stern on the inside. I think that's the correct build sequence though?
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: Mattkab's GV13 questions
Hi,
For structural reasons only the 2 bottom panels needs to be covered with biaxial. No need for the light cloth on top of it for structural reasons. It's not needed on the sides except for added durability or to prevent checking if you used marine fir plywood
And yes, that's the correct sequence.
For structural reasons only the 2 bottom panels needs to be covered with biaxial. No need for the light cloth on top of it for structural reasons. It's not needed on the sides except for added durability or to prevent checking if you used marine fir plywood
And yes, that's the correct sequence.
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24
SK17,MM21/MT24
- mattkab
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Re: Mattkab's GV13 questions
Got it. Thanks Evan for the feedback!Evan_Gatehouse wrote: ↑Mon Jun 01, 2020 2:35 pm Hi,
For structural reasons only the 2 bottom panels needs to be covered with biaxial. No need for the light cloth on top of it for structural reasons. It's not needed on the sides except for added durability or to prevent checking if you used marine fir plywood
And yes, that's the correct sequence.
I'll biaxial the bottoms, and then light cloth for durability on all four panels.
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Re: Mattkab's GV13 questions
Next question....
I'm going to occasionally lift the GV-13 using the dinghy crane on my 4788. I'm not worried about weight, this boat will be at least half the weight of the existing RIB, if not more. However, I'm still debating the lift points in my head. I need to decide soon, since as I tab in the frames, if I need to add structural reinforcements it'll be much easier now. The stern is easy. Two U-bolts, through-bolted vertically through the 1x8 on the transom -- that makes sense. The question is the bow.
I've uploaded an image with my thoughts on the possible lift points:
Option #1 (Blue):
Single bow point, 3 point harness. Positives are it's central, fairly simple, and if I'm creative, the lift point could double as an anchor fairlead (or even cleat). The problem is I plan to put a deck on the bow, and I don't know that I trust my ability to get a good deck bond to the hull to support the weight. If I go this way could I laminate a stem post underneath, and through bolt through it?
Option #2 (Green):
Two bow points where the upper panel/topsides meet the bow transom and a 4-point harness. I could reinforce that area with 2x2s, and with taping and glass it should make a solid monocoque structure that should distribute the load nicely. Negatives are that it will likely interfere with where I wanted to put navigation lights (Pacific Northwest -- it gets dark early in the fall), and cleats. I'm also not sure it's necessary.
Option #3 (Red):
Two points in the "cockpit", on the vertical frames making Seat D. Positives are easy access and no issues with the bow deck. Negatives are that I would need to account for the console, and I'm guessing it will be a bit less stable with the bow weight unsupported.
Thoughts? Other options?
I'm going to occasionally lift the GV-13 using the dinghy crane on my 4788. I'm not worried about weight, this boat will be at least half the weight of the existing RIB, if not more. However, I'm still debating the lift points in my head. I need to decide soon, since as I tab in the frames, if I need to add structural reinforcements it'll be much easier now. The stern is easy. Two U-bolts, through-bolted vertically through the 1x8 on the transom -- that makes sense. The question is the bow.
I've uploaded an image with my thoughts on the possible lift points:
Option #1 (Blue):
Single bow point, 3 point harness. Positives are it's central, fairly simple, and if I'm creative, the lift point could double as an anchor fairlead (or even cleat). The problem is I plan to put a deck on the bow, and I don't know that I trust my ability to get a good deck bond to the hull to support the weight. If I go this way could I laminate a stem post underneath, and through bolt through it?
Option #2 (Green):
Two bow points where the upper panel/topsides meet the bow transom and a 4-point harness. I could reinforce that area with 2x2s, and with taping and glass it should make a solid monocoque structure that should distribute the load nicely. Negatives are that it will likely interfere with where I wanted to put navigation lights (Pacific Northwest -- it gets dark early in the fall), and cleats. I'm also not sure it's necessary.
Option #3 (Red):
Two points in the "cockpit", on the vertical frames making Seat D. Positives are easy access and no issues with the bow deck. Negatives are that I would need to account for the console, and I'm guessing it will be a bit less stable with the bow weight unsupported.
Thoughts? Other options?
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: Mattkab's GV13 questions
Thanks for asking.
I'd suggest two points:
- aft frame that supports the bow deck down low (single point) - should clear the fwd seat.
- or at the sides forward where the bow deck meets the hull (2 points)
I'd suggest two points:
- aft frame that supports the bow deck down low (single point) - should clear the fwd seat.
- or at the sides forward where the bow deck meets the hull (2 points)
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24
SK17,MM21/MT24
- mattkab
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Re: Mattkab's GV13 questions
Thanks, Evan! I like this idea. I think I'll go with this.Evan_Gatehouse wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 8:16 pm - aft frame that supports the bow deck down low (single point) - should clear the fwd seat.
Do you think a 3" square 3/8" backing pad laminated to the frame would be sufficient?
- Evan_Gatehouse
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Re: Mattkab's GV13 questions
Yes, but I'd also add an extra layer of tabbing there.
designer: FB11/GV10,11,13/ HMD18/
SK17,MM21/MT24
SK17,MM21/MT24
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