Mike Schwind's SK14 Build

[BB Sig]

I had to cut wedges into the foam as Dougster said to do. You are supposed to add the rubrail prior to foaming. The note in the FS13 stated it was optional so I waited. The note for the FS13 was supposed to be altered. Not sure what the SK14 stated to do. Make sure you wait until the rubrails are on before filling in the foam wedges that were removed!

After cutting wedges and gluing rubrails, it straightened up a lot but will require a lot of fairing. Mine will be a 20' beauty!

Did you cut your wedges at the point where the frames meet the side panels, on either side of the frame? After looking at the boat yesterday, I am having a hard time figuring out where the wedges need to be cut in order to relieve the pressure.

I cut wedges along the inside of the hull. Post a photo of the area that you have concerns.

Edited to add:

I see the area on my phone. My computer wouldn't go to the link. Yes, cut the foam wedges on the inside of the hull past the warped area. Glue rubrails and inwales. The inwale is what fixed mine the most...

[Michael.Schwind]

This photo shows it fairly well. It is the point where the frames are tangent to the hull. You can see the top edge of the hull is no longer a smooth curve.

[Dougster]

I just used SYP (pine) from the box store (HD) for my rub rail. It's got a coat or two of epoxy then three coats of Cetol. I don't know about Cypress, but bet it would be nice

Dougster

[BB Sig]

It appears the foam shrunk. Mine did the same thing. The wedge lets the plywood ease back but you can use 2x's to push the hull back into shape after you cut the wedges. After a week of stretching I glued rubrails and inwales. The inwale helped the most. I used the premium SYP with no knots.

[seaslug]

Your boat looks great. I've found that the Poplar from the big box stores is the nicest wood they have to work with, but the color might not be too attractive if you put a clear finish. It's harder than the pine, much harder than Cedar, and probably equal to Cypress. I use Maple if I've got it because it's extremely hard. Looks to me the sides will be no problem and should take a nice curve by clamping the rub rail. I had a 6 hp Merc on mine and hit 16 mph wide open, and the guy I sold it to put a 20 hp and loves it. Sounds a bit scary to me. Mike

[Michael.Schwind]

Thanks for the advice, everyone. I bought some SYP furring strips yesterday that I plan on using for the rub rails. I clamped them on to see if it would take care of the edge, and it did beautifully.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Severe-Weather ... 1000167831

[Michael.Schwind]

Your boat looks great. I've found that the Poplar from the big box stores is the nicest wood they have to work with, but the color might not be too attractive if you put a clear finish. It's harder than the pine, much harder than Cedar, and probably equal to Cypress. I use Maple if I've got it because it's extremely hard. Looks to me the sides will be no problem and should take a nice curve by clamping the rub rail. I had a 6 hp Merc on mine and hit 16 mph wide open, and the guy I sold it to put a 20 hp and loves it. Sounds a bit scary to me. Mike

Thanks for the advice! The side did take a nice curve after I clamped the rub rail. That was a relief!

I wonder what kind of speed he is getting with a 20 hp. That sounds slightly terrifying to me.

[seaslug]

Not a good idea using pressure treated lumber. I know it's inexpensive, but the rub rail is not where you want to cut corners. It probably does not take epoxy well, might even have some kind of adverse reaction due to whatever chemicals they use to treat it. Also it is not kiln dried and will have a very high moisture content. All the other woods available at Lowe's, pine, poplar, cedar, are kiln dried, and all work well with epoxy. Mike

[Gunho]

Hey Mike
I just wanted to ask how are you draining the water from front hatch if any gets inside there or gets inside the boat

[Michael.Schwind]

Hey Mike
I just wanted to ask how are you draining the water from front hatch if any gets inside there or gets inside the boat

I won't have access to the forward most compartments, so I plan on drilling a hole at the bottom of the forward most frame to allow any water that might get in there to drain to the compartment behind it, where I will have a hatch. From there I will just bail it out with a cup. I have no way of draining water from the compartments that have expanding foam in them. I have taken extra precaution to seal everything up very well, so I am hoping that I don't have much of an issue with that.