I did the same thing on my SK14. I sponge out any water in bow compartment as needed. Only needed once after a big boat wake rolled over the nose, and then there was only about a cup of water in the compartment. The wave rolled right on through the boat and out the transom scupper with no problem other than wet feet.
Dougster
Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
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Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
That's good to hear! It is always windy on the Upper Laguna Madre, so I am happy to hear that the SK14 can handle a wave or two. I'll typically have mine in the back bays and flats, but will have to travel through some open water to get there occasionally.Dougster wrote: ↑Mon Jul 06, 2020 11:05 am I did the same thing on my SK14. I sponge out any water in bow compartment as needed. Only needed once after a big boat wake rolled over the nose, and then there was only about a cup of water in the compartment. The wave rolled right on through the boat and out the transom scupper with no problem other than wet feet.
Dougster
Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
Just picked up late that you’re using southern yellow pine (SYP) for structural components. I’ve been using SYP in glued lap strakes for 10 years. I built a 16 footer from a designer’s plans from the UK. He was specifying mahogany for most everything not formed out of marine ply. I asked him if he could recommend a substitute. He said “it’s awful hard to find” but SYP has similar characteristics but just a little heavier. I happen to live in SYP heaven. Have fun building.
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Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
I've made some progress on the build. I added some photos to my album which can be seen by clicking the link below. I got by rubrails installed and flipped the boat to start working on the bottom.
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... FoUzVtLVp3
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... FoUzVtLVp3
Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
Looks good to me. You're gonna a love using it.
Dougster
Dougster
Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
Nice, good photos!!! Jeff
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Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
I am finally ready to fiberglass the hull of my boat. The problem that I ran into is that the sheet of fiberglass is not as wide as my boat. However, it is long enough that I should have enough material to cut strips that are long enough to span the width of the boat, using several of them to cover the entire hull. Is that advisable, or should I buy more glass?
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Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
It depends.
Depends on where the fabric overlaps occur and how you intend to finish the surface. Depends also on your desired level of finish along the spectrum of disposable work boat to family heirloom yacht quality?
In highly visible areas like a top deck with a bright finish then fabric overlaps and seams are not very desirable because they are harder to hide.
Inside of the hull under the sole where none will ever see it, no problem.
On the outside of the hull on the bottom not much of a problem, not very visible and most likely primed and painted but will require more sanding and fairing than a single piece of cloth with no seams or overlaps.
On the sides, more visible, but again most likely primed and painted, requiring more sanding and fairing effort but not that big of a deal.
Best wishes for continued success.
Depends on where the fabric overlaps occur and how you intend to finish the surface. Depends also on your desired level of finish along the spectrum of disposable work boat to family heirloom yacht quality?
In highly visible areas like a top deck with a bright finish then fabric overlaps and seams are not very desirable because they are harder to hide.
Inside of the hull under the sole where none will ever see it, no problem.
On the outside of the hull on the bottom not much of a problem, not very visible and most likely primed and painted but will require more sanding and fairing than a single piece of cloth with no seams or overlaps.
On the sides, more visible, but again most likely primed and painted, requiring more sanding and fairing effort but not that big of a deal.
Best wishes for continued success.
Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
If you can get a single sheet of glass wide enough that you don't have any overlaps, it will save you a ton of fairing time. I made that mistake on my driftboat: I used the sheet of kevlar I had which was not quite big enough and patchworked pieces together. I could have saved a ton of fairing/sanding time and improved quality if I saved that sheet for another project and got the right sized piece for the bottom.Michael.Schwind wrote: ↑Fri Aug 28, 2020 11:47 am I am finally ready to fiberglass the hull of my boat. The problem that I ran into is that the sheet of fiberglass is not as wide as my boat. However, it is long enough that I should have enough material to cut strips that are long enough to span the width of the boat, using several of them to cover the entire hull. Is that advisable, or should I buy more glass?
Edit: just realized you have already taped.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
Started Iain Oughtred Tammie Norrie
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Re: Mike Schwind's SK14 Build
The amount of fairing time is what I am concerned about. I want this boat to have a quality finish, so it sounds like I should get a larger sheet of glass. I might get one the same size as what I already have and let them overlap at the keel. That would make the keel 3 layers thick (including the tape) and would hopefully improve the overall finish.
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