Houghs Neck Skiff

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
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Steve_MA
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Houghs Neck Skiff

Post by Steve_MA »

I am fixing up a wooden boat I bought from a neighbor. Since I built an FL14, I have half a clue what I am doing, but still questions.
This is the url to the pictures (this way I dont have to scale them to fit the gallery)
http://houghsneckskiff.shutterfly.com

I originally bought plans for the OD18 because it was the boat I wanted. I dont have much space, so I went to actually build I decided to build one that would fit in the basement and I get out the door. Plus I lost my dingy in a storm. :cry: So FL14 fit the bill......

When this one came up for sale, the price was right. The area I live in ("Howes Neck") was a very popular flouder fishing area many years ago and many boats like this were built. One of the local lobsterman has a set of molds. I think this was built around 1985 and its pretty solid still.

So this one is going to fill the "OD18" category for me, although its not as good a design, but now I can think about building something like a C17, 19 or 21 next.....whichever fits in the garage with enough room to work.

Before this season is out, I want to put in a bilge pump and repair the bottom. For next season, or later, I would like to convert to a center console. I already stripped off the original bottom tape, sanded it down, put on new tape currently fairing and filling. Then I am going to add 17oz biax bottom close and finish with epoxy/graphite.

It originally had a 1x4 oak plank on the bottom downt the centerline to protect the bottom. I make a 2x2 skeg to replace it with. I am assuming a 2" skeg is enough (6 ft long, tapered).

I am also told it is a "wet boat" and that a spray rail wont help. Not sure why. In any case, thinking of adding a spray rail anyway.

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Post by jacquesmm »

It looks like you are on the right track: clean repair job.
If the plywood is dry, keep using the resin and fiberglass we specify for the OD18 and you will have a strong baot.
Jacques Mertens - Designer
http://boatbuildercentral.com

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Post by Steve_MA »

Thanks, appreciate that.

Where would I put spray rails? I was thinking of starting half way between the chine and the top of the transom and following the top of hull line (shear line?) forward.

Any idea why this wouldnt help?

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Post by Steve_MA »

I about to start sanding a bit more paint off the sides. Is this about where I put the sprayrail? I am going to use 3 strips of 3/8" Okume ply.

Image

Here is where I am now. Keel installed and taped over.

Image

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Post by gk108 »

You probably need to go a lower than that line. If you can put it down at the edge of the biax tape, you could save a little effort on fairing that ridge. It looks good so far.
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Re: Houghs Neck Skiff

Post by Steve_MA »

Well, its been 3 seasons I have had this boat in the water and I thought I would update folks with my experiences.
http://houghsneckskiff.shutterfly.com The old pics from 2006 and the new ones are there.
I sanded the bottom down to wood and applied glass cloth 12oz and tape. Its filled with graphite and some microballoons (mostly graphite) and left black. All I do is wipe it down on the water line about 2/3rds thru the summer, then when it comes out. It still looks good as new on the sides. On the bottom, the keel tape (2 layers) went thru this year so I glommed on a piece of 5/4 PT decking. I have some Ipe laying around - probably should have used that. I figure I will flip in another couple years and fix it properly - steel plate :doh: Also the rear corners are sanded nice and smooth and the glass looks like it might be ready to pop thru - I dont know if I am going to do anything with that or not. Other than that, the bottom looks fine. This is what 3 years of sitting on a tidal mooring does.

I didnt sand down the hull, I painted "battleship gray" (my wife called it) over the black, then went to her choice - Teal - last year. I just touched it up quickly with a brush this year. Just Porch and Floor paint, hit with a paint scraper; being careful not to start taking too much off 8O . Looks fine from a distance. I also sanded all the black paint off the rub rails last year. Down to bare wood, then coated with epoxy. I also added my signature bow strips. After one season in the Boston waters here and sitting outside in the winter - no cover - the epoxy was virtually 100% gone. I rubbed some off pulling lobster pots, but the UV - I assume - took the rest. But it was easy to sand and redo, beats the heck out of paint.

The first season I got it, I used a belt sander to clean up the sole. I didnt get all the paint up, but just enough to repaint with gray. I have slopped it on the second yr, but last year I left it alone. I wanted the wood to start drying out so I could see what I had. Its all good wood, so the weather wont kill it. This year, some of the paint is coming off in sheets. You can see a couple sections exposed and I have been scraping out the corners where the water collects. Its coming up pretty easy. I think what I am going to do is just cover the bare ply and nearby paint with pigmented epoxy and see how that does. If it sticks great, if the sun takes it....well no harm done. If the paint comes free the epoxy will come off and I can just touch it up.

I dont know the names of those interior parts, but they are screwed and glued with 3M5200 or similar. Two of the cross pieces have sister boards already. I don't want to take that stuff apart, I just don't want it to break. I think the first step is just getting some epoxy down.

I made some floorboards for the front too. They are just going to be covered with pigmented epoxy and maybe some non-skid. I am curious to see how well the pigmented epoxy does.

The motor has been giving me my only small fits. The off button died and with folks here I was able to fix it inexpensively. I had gas problems and finally found a small leak in the fuel line connector - that was this years problem. But I know it was intermittent for the last couple years - I wondered why the fuel line would stop drawing gas! Arghh.

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