P-14 1958 CLASSIC GLASS RENOVATION

[MTECHMARINE]

Were all those engines restorations or well kept? That's pretty cool stuff. The first thing that caught my eye was the pitch on prop with the performance gear case.

That's going to be one nice classic restoration.

MD

They are restorations, these engines done by master machinist Doug Kay in Michigan. He got laid off from auto industry and started working from home, now he's backlogged for months! Need any machine work done, he's the best. Call him at 586-212-5917 10 til 8PM or so central time.

Yes, those little props are nifty, I have a boxfull. But expensive, mine have been accumulated over about a 20 year period. Old Mercury motors are practically a cult thing these days!!

Here's a 1953 Wizard WK-7 12HP I did a while back. This engine is similar to a Mercury Mark 20 but only 18 cubic inches. Played a few tricks with it, should be = to the Merc now.



and one of my Mercs underway, a 1955 Mark 55.

[Mad Dog]

Now that's some pretty neat projects. So, do you have to fabricate most of your parts or is there a secondary market?

I had couple engines, many years ago, of the vintage in your avitar. Couldn't make them run, didn't think I could find parts, so my dad sent them to the scrap yard. What a waste.

Older and wiser?

MD

[MTECHMARINE]

The collecting and restoring of old outboards is probably about at the same stage as automotive stuff was 20 years ago. There are a surprising amount of new old stock parts around for early outboards - in fact a good deal of the sales from my website are for 20 year or older models! Some fabrication is being done of hard-to-find parts, but for most all the old Mercs there are sufficient leftovers available with patience to do most any motor. One of my clients just brought me a pair of 1961 Merc 800 80HP with racing speedmaster gearcases. There MIGHT be 5 pairs like this left in existence. Still he bought them for less than $5000 the pair. They are in excellent condition as well needing only fuel lines, wiring and cosmetic replacements.

This would be like finding a Dodge Dart 440 needing tires and a tune up. And that car is worth 6 figures! And not nearly so much fun!


A perfect day, I got busy and did the remaining hull exterior with the S3 water base primer. But this time I SPRAYED it and it came out great. I had used a similar grey epoxy primer under imron on my MFG in Hawaii but it wasn't water based as I recall. A couple of thin spots, a couple of runs, easily sanded out. Not too bad for new gun, new compressor, new paint. Gun was really easy to clean up too.




Now it's a uniform gray so we can put on the Sterling cream. I will TRY the roll and tip on the transom, if it looks good I'll do the rest Saturday. Getting anxious, been a looong process!!

[wmax]

So finally did the cream on the bottom last week, it was a learning experience. I had the usual bugs, runs and misc. unidentifiable motes in the paint. Transom came out 99%, but the 1st side had too much paint applied and runs developed. I was able to brush them mostly out. Used less paint and brushing on side 2 and it's lots better. This paint sure lived up to it's reputation for a glossy hard finish.But I think I will trade in my brushing thinner for some reducer and spray the deck. After attending the Lake Dora FL. AYBC meet last weekend I saw some really impressive glass finish work. Mine stands up to anything else you see 'til you get your nose into it and the irregularities show. All in all I'm happy with it.

The motors for the boat are coming along as well, I have several in work, it will be fun to try them out soon.

Had trouble with the forum last night, can't get in same as B4, had to post as a guest

[shinchan]

The transom thickness is more than adequate. Transom is tabbed to hull side and botom with 2 layers of 12 oz. biax tape. Then 2 layers of 12 oz. 50" wide cloth over the transom - overlapping to the sides/bottom (over the tape)

I would make my stringers from 2 layers of laminated 3/8" with the joints staggered so that you have one continuous 3/4" stringer. Stringers are tabbed to hull with 2 layers of biax tape.

frames: 3/8" meranti spaced at around 30" - tabbed to hull with 12 oz Biax tape.

You will then epoxy glue cleats (little pieces of wood) to the top of the stringers and frames to provide glue area for the sole. I would prefer to glue the sole down in a couple pieces - so there is plenty of time to mix and apply the epoxy glue. Then the sole gets tabbed to the hull sides with the same 12 ox Biax tape. Sole can be 3/8" or 1/2". I would only put a light cloth on the top side of the sole.

Fillets for transom/stringers/frames/sole should be about 3/8" to 1/2" radius

you will need at least the following to get to the prime/paint stage:

-2 rolls of 12 oz. biax tape
-5 lbs of woodflour (for making glue and fillets)
-3 quarts of quick fair (or 1/2 lb or blended filler if you prefer to mix your own fairing putty)
-enough wide biax cloth to cover your transom as described above
-3 gallons of epoxy to start ( I will guess you may use 6 gallons total on the rebuild)
-plywood: make a drawing of all the parts so you can see how you will cut them out to make the most efficient use of the wood

Cool project and great posts!
Sorry, I just wanted to make sure I understand this because I'm in the process of doing the same right now to a 1962 PT-14 that was abandoned (shell only- no stringers, floor or cap):

By "tabbed" you mean covered over, as in fiberglassed with? So are the stringers bedded in thickened epoxy, then fillets put in and then tabbed?

The sole (floor) edges rest directly on the hull- should I put extra reinforcement to ease a hard spot under the edge or taper the sole edge or...?

Is the bottom of the sole (side that faces the stringers) painted with epoxy then screwed/glued to the top of the stringers?

Last question- do you think if I glassed 1/2" PVC/Divinycell foam to the inside of the hull, from the sole to the gunwales, throughout the inside-would it make it a more durable boat?

I saw this type of boat fishing 8+ miles offshore in Hawaii with two men aboard and they caught two 150 lbs+ ahi(tuna)(yeah, the boat was low in the water ) but the boat sure looked filmsy and flexed a bit when they hit the chop so I was hoping I could somehow make this one a little more durable/stiffer.
Mahalo for any info, Randy

[D2Maine]

nm

[shinchan]

Holy crap, I think I found everything I wanted to know and then some!
Plenny mahalos for the links!!!
Sorry for the interruption, please continue the great posts...
Randy

[MTECHMARINE]

Aloha, I lived on the Big Island for 22 years and saw some P-14's in use there. They were BRAMCO / Seaswirl built, mine is older yet - -

Finally got the ivory Sterling on the sides with mediocre results. (see page 3, I posted prior in the wrong place) Looks good from a distance, but up close not so good. I have a little less than half a can left, thinking about maybe a second coat sprayed on.

[frazoo]

dang, looks like someone is outboard motor poor

frazoo

[MTECHMARINE]

I couldn't stand it after participating in the lake Dora Antique and classic boat meet last weekend of March. saw a lot of classic glass as well as unbelieveable woodwork. My paint job just wouldn't hold up to these standards. Being a Virgo it finally got to me.

Went to the local auto paint emporium and after another half a grand I had replacement paint and clear coat for both motors and boat. Shot the boat last sunday after another 2 day sanding session to remove the runs, lap marks and brush marks from the roll N tip. Result?? WHEE DOGGIES!

Looks like glass. SHINEY!! I painted 2 motors worth of top and lower cowls as well. They look just like Dougs motors pictured prior. Sorry but this is gotta be the way to go for me. The sterling was glossy enough but just wouldn't lay out flat.

I will post more pics when I roll it out and flip it this weekend.. I can see the end of this project, gettin' closer!