O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
Newsailor
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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by Newsailor »

gk108, any new updates on this project? I hope all is well with you.

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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by ks8 »

hear hear!

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gk108
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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by gk108 »

Pardon my big hiatus. Some progress has been made, in spite of the tedious details involved.
After fairing the foredeck, the pulpit base pads were located and glued down.
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Faired in with a radius that matches the portholes and other stuff. I even bought new setscrews for the rail bases!
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I also made the hole in the deck for the fresh water fill. There was more rotten balsa core to clean out around my holes, but that just played into my plan anyway. It had to go slightly inboard of the toerail for deck drainage considerations.
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An underside view. The spud comes through slightly forward of the hole in the berth top where it goes to the tank. That offset will help with getting the (stiff) hose over to the hull side. Notice the three screw holes didn't go through the inner liner.
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I lined the big hole with duct tape and inflated a balloon in the hole. Putty was injected into the screw holes with some overfill to accomodate any settling.
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Nice and clean looking on the bottom side, too.
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Nice and solid.
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I also have the centerboard re-installed.
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That's probably of another post, though. The epoxy isn't cured on that work.
CC, D15, V10

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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by tech_support »

I love it....... :D :lol: I might borrow that idea sometime :wink:

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gk108
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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by gk108 »

Replacing the centerboard...
Page 7 has some details about the construction of the CB trunk and pin. Since I never, ever intend to remove the centerboard again, I decided to make provisions for removal, if/when necessary. I drilled and tapped a hole in one end of the pin, then plugged the hole with a nylon screw.
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Next, I took a piece of polyethylene and stretched it over the end of the pin and pushed it into the hole a ways to make a form fitting cover. The excess material outside of the disk was cut away.
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After a little wrestling and cussing and the CB is installed and the pin looked like this.
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A tiny bit of 2 sided tape holds the poly cover in place while the putty plug is applied.
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This is the putty plug on the port side, pin removal provisions are on the stbd side.
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No pics of the unpleasant wallowing around under the boat while filling and fairing the stub keel. It took a few days, but the one thing that made it a nicer experience was Quick Fair. The ability to mix small batches and work small areas made it easier to deal with, since getting under there and getting to the various spots that needed work would consume too much pot life time for larger batches of epoxy and filler.
Rolling on the graphite/epoxy wasn't such a hassle. I did have to crawl back under there to mask off the lines using a laser level. I like the end result. It sort of makes it look like there's more to the keel than there actually is. This is the aft end.
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Here's the forward end.
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Works for me.
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Next up is fixing hull dings and getting ready to prime and paint from keel up to the bootstripe.
I'm still unsure of which paint to use for this. The boat will be trailer sailed most of the time with a some stays up to 2 weeks in salt water. :help:
CC, D15, V10

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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by ks8 »

8)

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gk108
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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by gk108 »

I have 10 or so areas that look like a gel coat blister with frostbite. On the surface, they look like small curved scratches, often with another small line extending from the concave side of the curve. Like the one in this poor picture:
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That makes me poke at every little scratch with an awl to see if it is hollow underneath. That's a bunch of poking. After I find a hollow spot, I get a chisel in the crack and pop off as much loose gelcoat as possible before grinding out the damage to prep for the Quick Fair filling. Here's the same blister before grinding:
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This particular blister seemed to have a larger than average amount of delamination around it, but most of the damage didn't go deeper than the first layer of chooper-gun effluent. Other than the blisters, theres a lot of scratches and gouges that look like minor collision or grounding damage. A whole lot of it will be taken care of with the primer, but for right now, I'm wearing out my fine-toothed magnifying glass looking at the little curved ones. 8)
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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by ks8 »

I wonder how much of that is possibly invited by contaminants during the layup? You're fixing her up better than new. :) 8)

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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by Newsailor »

Great progress! It's wonderful to see you moving forward on this project. You asked about a good paint for a boot stripe... I used SystemThree WR-LPU Topcoat. It's generally used as top coat and has fantastic abrasion resistance. I have used it as a bottom coat for my ski boat since it rarely stays in water for the whole season. I trailer it everywhere and she sits in the water for a few days at a time, sometimes a week. I've never had issues and it's year 3 with the original paint. So I like it a lot. Because I don't keep her in the water for the season, it gets me out of having to load up on antifouling paint which is more expensive.

I have the exact same model of sailboat as you do too, that's why I'm following your project, and I'm thinking of painting my sailboat with this stuff too. I wouldn't hesitate to do it. They have a great color selection and can accomodate and scheme you may want.

Here's a link: http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/WR- ... at-c29.htm

Good luck!

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Re: O'Day 20 Rebuild and Refit

Post by gk108 »

I wonder how much of that is possibly invited by contaminants during the layup?
I'm pretty sure that the boat was moored for a portion of its life, so I'm blaming these spots on osmosis more than anything else. It's encouraging that there are only a few to worry about.

For the paint, it will be Interlux VC Performance below the waterline. It looks like it will be durable and I can enhance the racer part of the "cruiser/racer" designation. :D
Above the waterline will be a 2 part oil based polyurethane of some sort. Most likely I'll spray it. :) :doh: :help:

I used the System 3 product on my V10 build and I'm pretty satisfied with the results. Ditto for the Interlux Brightsides that I used on my D15. Dad always says that variety is the spice of life, so I'm going to try some different paint technology on each project. Lately, I've been leaning towards Imron paint, but that adds another layer of complexity (and I haven't used Imron in almost 40 years). Too much variety can cause problems, so Interlux Perfection may be the product I choose. Whatever the paint, I will prime with the System 3 primer. Can't beat that stuff, so there's no need to try anything else. 8)
CC, D15, V10

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