FREE 17 MAKO

[DAYTRIP]

Joel,

If you want it no problem. The stringers did not crack at the same point(s). The bottom is cracked at one location but running paralell to the stringer not perpendicular. Just let me know if you do want it. I'll enail my cell to you if you want to ask anything specific

Jim

[DAYTRIP]

I had a double post Sorry

[DAYTRIP]

This is the project replacing the Mako.


The console is a monstrosity so it will be cut WAY down. 23 long 8'6 wide. Basically a barge!

[DAYTRIP]

Joel,

Wanted to get your thoughts, guidance and advice on my latest brain fart. The 23' bay boat above is not really "pratical" for what I want. The boat runs really well as verified by a ride on my buddy's identical boat. What i would like to do is raise the free board. I have looked at "skabbing" on but the bow is way to flat to get what I want. So my thought is cut the existing sides off and put the sides I want back on. I thought I would use the same techniques that I learned when building the OB15. I plot the hull shape on Acad after using a laser level and plumb bob to get the geometry. Then I laid out a shape that accomplishes what I am looking for. I also did the developed panel drawings. Any of this can change if you have other thoughts. So what do you think?

[tech_support]

Hi Jim,

It is possible, but it seems like an awful lot of work. You will have to build a new deck and frames from templates (a ton of work). For me, the beauty of a rebuild is the potential for time savings over building a one-off (not always the case though) You could build a one off boat like the AB23 in less time than if you highly modified the boat you have. Maybe you have some other parts that will speed up the re-build that Im unaware of

Of the possible problem(s) to be solved; how to bond the two parts together, and how you hold it together and fair while you glass. You will need some molds/jigs. You need big overlaps of glass on the inside and out, so there will a lot of faring work on the outside.

If you have a 3D model, I suppose this could help and save some templating time

Personally, I would try to find another hull that was closer to what I wanted.

[DAYTRIP]

I should probably start a new thread but wantd to update the "Free Mako" status. I decided to redue this boat. So I took the transome core out as well as the stringers. Mentined above the strigers were broke/rotted. I am going back with foam as I was given a ton of it by a friend. I have no issue with wood using the techniques Jaques reccomends but since i have the foam... I ground the entire bottom of the hull and the transom. i did find a couple areas that were stress crack so I ground them out. Looks like it was in loactions were the trailer roller were.

Broken stringers




Here is were the cracks are grounds out.




I then repaired the ground areas with one layer of 1808 and 2 layers of 1708. I will grind out the previuos duraglass repair attempt from the outside so I wanted plenty of material there. I will then add a layer of 1708 and fair it in.




I built the stringers using 1" divinicell foam. Used one layer 1808 and two layers 1708 on each side. Built them out of the boat.I then jigged them together with plywood to hold them 30 inches appart and square with each other.



I then final scribed them to the hull and filleted them in. Before I set them in I added a single layer of 6" 1708. I used a trick Joel showed some time back, I bought some empty caulk tubes and put my epoxy wood flour mix in. Very fast and very clean. I highly recommend it! I am using wood flour as the thickening agent.



I taped the stringers in with a 12" 1708 and a 6" as well. Then I added a layer of 1808 to the entire bottom to repalce what I gound out and to stiffen it up. Then I put the bulkheads in and taped them in.


I raised the transome to 25" mainly for safety. I did everything from the inside. I put a mold/dam on the ouside and glassed one 1808 and three 1708 to add the height and close the openning down to 30 inches. I used a 1-1/2" 26# coosa






I

[DAYTRIP]

Thought i would post pics of the hatches I am making. Started by using MDF to build the hatch reciever. I built it at 24"x36". i was originally building them for a different boat so they are a little big but will work.



I actually painted the mold with Awlgrip as I was painting something for my neighbor. Worked really well. This is one of the parts. You can see the recesses for the hinges. They are made of starboard in just screewed in.



I am building my first hatch today. Made the mold from melamine and used modeling clay to make the rounded corners.



I am cutting the mold down to 18"x18" for three of the smaller compartments. Had to do a little glazing putty and sanding and then reprimed.

[tech_support]

thanks for posting the pix. Those are nice hatch molds, will save you a lot of time.

[DAYTRIP]

Thank you Joel for all the help! I did wind up cutting the mold down so I won't need more molds. I would like to try them though. What do you think about the transome. If you remeber I built it with left over coosa. The verticle support are basically stringer extensions that tie to the transom and then that bulkhead 22" forward of the transome.

[tech_support]

I do not see a problem with the transom.

You should laminate the bulkhead first, so your transom "knees" are glassed to a solid skin. Maybe a better way of saying it is the skin of the bulkhead should be uninterrupted