I have a 1972 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' CC stepped hull that I traded a motorcycle for. The motor is a 2001 mercury 225 efi and is in good running condition with hydraulic steering. The hull has a rotten sole and transom and so after a year of debate, research, and sitting idle in my driveway I have finally decided to take the plunge and attempt my first rebuild. I started the demo this past weekend where I found what i had expected, rotten wood, waterlogged foam, and other organic material as well as gas leaking from the corroded gas tank. The stringers however are box style stringers that feel solid and have not delaminated despite being full of waterlogged foam. I am not finished with the demo but Im sure I have already removed over 1000lbs of material and still have more to go!!! Anyway I look forward to the challenge and I am confident i have come to the right place for help and encouragement. I want this boat to be simple and functional that i can fish, party, and enjoy family time on for many years to come. It will stay on Lake Lanier in Atlanta but will take occasional trips to the gulf of Mexico and the Outer Banks of NC.
My plan for the rebuild is to enclose the transom with a false bulkhead and built in fishbox/cooler like shines seacraft, mount a bracket (maybe portabracket, or hermco), replace the sole, and rebuild the casting deck/sundeck. I also will need to fix some cosmetic issues such as paint, holes in the decking from 40+ years of various rod holders, covers, lights, downriggers etc. and find a newer narrower console instead of the low and wide one that came in it.
I am open to any and all suggestions for design, layout, materials, and overall advice.
Thanks in advance for everyones help. Tripp
'72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
The following are some pics of how it has been sitting in my driveway since i traded for it.
These pics are from the demo i did this past weekend. Notice the ants living in the transom. And the plywood squares that were used for the core of the sole instead of solid fiberglass sheets...
The white stuff on the stringers is old resin mixed with fibers to form the glue to hold down the sole. Or at least thats what i think it is because its hard as a rock.
These pics are from the demo i did this past weekend. Notice the ants living in the transom. And the plywood squares that were used for the core of the sole instead of solid fiberglass sheets...
The white stuff on the stringers is old resin mixed with fibers to form the glue to hold down the sole. Or at least thats what i think it is because its hard as a rock.
- peter-curacao
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
What is it whit those production boats and there patchwork sole's?
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
im not sure but it made it rather easy to remove. instead of one big piece it came up in little chunks. since it was all delaminated it was not as bad as i expected.
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
I have a question... I found out during demo that the boat is actually liner/cap construction. The gunwales are a separate piece from the hull. Now that the sole is cut out I can pull the bottom of the gunwales away from the hull and slide a few fingers up under in between the hull and cap in a few different places. Some places are still attached and i cant pull it away.
-Should I try to salvage the internal skins of the cap and re glass the sole on the lip that remains, or completely gut it and glass the sole to the raw hull sides with stiffeners etc? I know on shines seacraft the liner was removed and he glassed directly to the hull. which method is better and or easier?
-Should I try to salvage the internal skins of the cap and re glass the sole on the lip that remains, or completely gut it and glass the sole to the raw hull sides with stiffeners etc? I know on shines seacraft the liner was removed and he glassed directly to the hull. which method is better and or easier?
- Cracker Larry
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
That's how I would do it. You've got a big job ahead, a lot of time and money. Are you sure it's worth it?completely gut it and glass the sole to the raw hull sides with stiffeners etc? I know on shines seacraft the liner was removed and he glassed directly to the hull. which method is better and or easier?
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
I guess that is the million dollar question... I dont know if it is worth it or not. I would like to think that when im done the experience alone will have been worth it but ive never done anything like this before so it may not be. I enjoy a challenge and love bringing old things new again (I currently ride a 1967 triumph bonneville chopper that i helped build from the frame up), so i think the value to me will be the pride of having done it myself. Every bit of research i have been able to find on this particular hull indicates that it was a very good riding hull. As far as cost goes i plan on the pay as i go approach to hopefully not offset me one huge chunk of change. What would you say a job like this would cost (ballpark figure for transom and sole rebuild with plywood)?Are you sure it's worth it?
- Cracker Larry
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
I can appreciate all that, there is a lot of satisfaction in bringing something back from the dead I've done it a few times.
But realistically, that hull is 40 years old and has probably been run a few years with all of it's structural members basically mush. It's very likely to have stress fractures running all through the laminate that you can't see until you get it stripped bare and get all that outside paint off too. Quite a few re-builders here have discovered that, after investing a lot of time and money.
On top of the plywood, you are probably looking at 12-15 gallons of epoxy, a couple hundred yards of FG tape, a considerable amount of 12 oz and 1708 FG cloth, 10 pounds of wood flour, a couple pounds of fillers, a few quarts of fairing compound, then primers, paints, and non-skid. You'll also need floatation foam, maybe 8 gallons or more.
Don't underestimate, everything cost more and takes longer than you think. I doubt you can get it back into seaworthy condition for less than $10K, and could easily put 20K in it with accessories. Plus a year or 2 of work, depending on your free time.
For about the same money and effort you could build a boat from scratch, from plans here, re-use the trailer, motor and anything else salvageable, and still have something you that could take pride in doing yourself
I'm not trying to discourage you, but sometimes the juice ain't worth the squeeze. Know what you're getting into. If you decide to continue we'll help you all we can
But realistically, that hull is 40 years old and has probably been run a few years with all of it's structural members basically mush. It's very likely to have stress fractures running all through the laminate that you can't see until you get it stripped bare and get all that outside paint off too. Quite a few re-builders here have discovered that, after investing a lot of time and money.
It's not just the transom and sole, although that's a big part. As you go, you will find more and more that you want or need to replace. Will you rebuild the center console or make a new one? Refurb the leaning post? You will have to install all new plumbing, all new wiring, probably control cables and control box too, new gauges and switches and breaker panels and lights and pumps and fittings. You will use hundreds of sanding disks, disposable brushes and rollers, masking tape, mixing sticks and cups, solvents, gloves, rags and other expendables. These can add up to $1000 real quick. Add any tools that you need and don't have.What would you say a job like this would cost (ballpark figure for transom and sole rebuild with plywood)?
On top of the plywood, you are probably looking at 12-15 gallons of epoxy, a couple hundred yards of FG tape, a considerable amount of 12 oz and 1708 FG cloth, 10 pounds of wood flour, a couple pounds of fillers, a few quarts of fairing compound, then primers, paints, and non-skid. You'll also need floatation foam, maybe 8 gallons or more.
Don't underestimate, everything cost more and takes longer than you think. I doubt you can get it back into seaworthy condition for less than $10K, and could easily put 20K in it with accessories. Plus a year or 2 of work, depending on your free time.
For about the same money and effort you could build a boat from scratch, from plans here, re-use the trailer, motor and anything else salvageable, and still have something you that could take pride in doing yourself
I'm not trying to discourage you, but sometimes the juice ain't worth the squeeze. Know what you're getting into. If you decide to continue we'll help you all we can
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
Thank you for the insight. There are things that I did not even consider in your list. From a mechanical standpoint engine, controls, electronics, gauges, etc. they were in good running condition before so very little will need to be replaced. I am going to keep tearing into it until i can make a full assessment of the damage. After reading through some other threads i see that a multitool is an easier way to cut glass as opposed to a grinder or sawzall. I will go grab one tomorrow and give it a shot. I also have access to marine parts and supplies at dealer cost through my friends dealership. That should help me keep some of the costs down as well.
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
[quote="Cracker Larry"]
" but sometimes the juice ain't worth the squeeze."
I like that. Just so you know I'm going to start using it
" but sometimes the juice ain't worth the squeeze."
I like that. Just so you know I'm going to start using it
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