'72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
- FitzFisher
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
I agree with Larry. Plus you would have to kerf that plywood clean thorough to get it flimsier than the outer skin, and then you wouldn't have any think to force the shape uniformly. Go straight my friend! It's a whole lot easier to make a flat sandwich....Plus I can't imagine that you would gain anything from a curved transom. Your demo work looks good though!
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
Well now that we have determined that the transom is supposed to be flat let me re-ask my original question in a different context...
Would it now be easier to laminate all three pieces of wood together and then use the stiffness of the core to help pull the outside skin back straight with carriage bolts and 2x4's?
Like fitz said its easier to make a flat sandwich (flat core + flat 2x4 = flat sandwich of skin)
Would it now be easier to laminate all three pieces of wood together and then use the stiffness of the core to help pull the outside skin back straight with carriage bolts and 2x4's?
Like fitz said its easier to make a flat sandwich (flat core + flat 2x4 = flat sandwich of skin)
- Cracker Larry
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
As long as you can handle the weight, I would laminate all 3 pieces flat on a table then install them as one unit.
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
nice catch larry
I would try to do at least a couple layers at once, unless you have some help its tough to handle a heavy piece (while its got epoxy glue on it) and line it up with your bolt holes. Might also help to have a piece on the outside as a backing plate of sorts to squeeze it flat.
Can you try to get the skin somewhat strait using a strap or maybe a block under the transom/keel. Trying to squeeze the skin flat might be a lot easier if you can relieve whatever pressure or tension is making it bow out
I would try to do at least a couple layers at once, unless you have some help its tough to handle a heavy piece (while its got epoxy glue on it) and line it up with your bolt holes. Might also help to have a piece on the outside as a backing plate of sorts to squeeze it flat.
Can you try to get the skin somewhat strait using a strap or maybe a block under the transom/keel. Trying to squeeze the skin flat might be a lot easier if you can relieve whatever pressure or tension is making it bow out
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
I am not worried about the weight so i will laminate all three pieces together and then once those cure ill glue it into the transom. once cured on the table i will dry fit and drill holes and align everything before i apply glue. in the mean time i will try to get a block under the keel and pull the skin in as best as i can. thanks for the great advice. i will post more pics as i progress.
I would kill for flexible electric sander...Argh!
Hi,
Im reparing a 72 foot long yacht and I would love to know, if there is any flexible electric sander that can sand large curved area. Are there any? Or do I live in land of dreams?
Im reparing a 72 foot long yacht and I would love to know, if there is any flexible electric sander that can sand large curved area. Are there any? Or do I live in land of dreams?
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
Excited to be back in action. After starting my own business, I have had to take some time off of my build but I am now back for the mean time until my second child is born in a month or less. The next 4 weeks will be a race to see how much I can get done before I have to put it on pause for a while. I have had the transom laminated waiting to be installed for almost a year but have had no time to put it in. Finally today with the help of my brother we got the core glued into the outer skin. I clamped it down with carriage bolts and a mess of 2x4's. here are the pics from today.
My next steps will be:
1. bevel the outside skin and get it ready for glass.
2. hotcoat any raw wood left on transom.
3. create fillet
4. tape all corners
5. lay glass, increasing overlap by 2" each layer for a total of 4 layers and 8" of total overap?
Please let me know if I missed any steps along the way. Thanks.
My next steps will be:
1. bevel the outside skin and get it ready for glass.
2. hotcoat any raw wood left on transom.
3. create fillet
4. tape all corners
5. lay glass, increasing overlap by 2" each layer for a total of 4 layers and 8" of total overap?
Please let me know if I missed any steps along the way. Thanks.
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
I also traded a leaning post for a 30 gal moeller plastic fuel tank. I really want to have between 80-100 gals of fuel. I found a good deal on a 55gal tank and was thinking of just running 2 tanks for a total of 85 gals... Does this seem like it will work better or worse than one giant 80 gal tank? is there any advantage to have one or two tanks, aside from the extra work of rigging them both. what would be the most/least gals of fuel i should put in there for a 22'boat? I know more is always better but to what degree. I dont want to sink the thing because i got overzealous and loaded a 22' boat with 300 gals of fuel...
Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
quick question... do I need to tab my stringers into my transom before laying inner transom skin or do I glass transom completely then tab stringers later? Not sure if it matters if stringers are tabbed to raw transom wood or just to the inner skin?
- Cracker Larry
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Re: '72 Hydrofoil Tridyne 22' transom and sole rebuild
I would glass the transom first then tab in the stringers.
That's a Cracker clamping job if I've ever seen one Whatever it takes....
That's a Cracker clamping job if I've ever seen one Whatever it takes....
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
"Ships are the nearest things to dreams that hands have ever made." -Robert N. Rose
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