Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by greymare89 »

Image

Image

The stringers are cut and dry fit, just have to take the plunge and start bedding them in thickened epoxy.....



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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by pee wee »

Very neat looking work, but a question- it looks like you have got the stringers made with full thickness material and laid out with butt joints, and those joints line up across the hull- am I seeing that right? I'm used to seeing stringers laminated from thinner plywood stock using offset seams to create a stronger, full length piece. The way it looks in the photo you would have an area with less strength that could spell trouble. I haven't been following your thread, maybe this is a special circumstance, but I had to ask.
Hank

greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Pee wee, you are right about the seams. They are all in the same place and until you brought that to my attention I hadn't even noticed. I had made a mental note to offset the seams but I must have completely forgotten about it one I got underway . Is this a major problem? If so its a major set back and an expensive one at that!!!! I would have to by another piece if $80 marine plywood and re-cut the stringers... Also I should note the blocks holding the stringers together in the photos are only temporary , when it comes time to glass them in I plan on cutting butt blocks to match the width of the stringers with the edges cut on angles to help with laying the glass in...

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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by NOTHING ELSE MATTERS »

You don't have to worry, all you ave to do is use a 4 foot piece of plywood the full height of the stringer and glue it to the join, this way you going to have a two foot support on each side of the join. If you do it on both sides of the stringer is even better.

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tech_support
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by tech_support »

You don't have to worry, all you ave to do is use a 4 foot piece of plywood the full height of the stringer and glue it to the join, this way you going to have a two foot support on each side of the join. If you do it on both sides of the stringer is even better.
A big butt block, that will work. But you need to do something :!: :wink:

greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Thanks for the replies. I'm set to cut the butt block probably later this week, just one more question about bedding the stringers. The grid is laid in nice in sturdy and it would make life so easy to apply the fillet as they sit in the pictures rather than picking them up, laying the thickened epoxy under the stringer, and lowering them back down. Is it a waste of time to try and push the thickened epoxy under the stringers as they sit now or should I try to lift each one individually up and lay the fillet under so its "bedded in"???

Also I cut the scuppers holes into the transom and the fiberglass seems awfully thin (2 layers of 1708). Before I go ahead and tab the stringers in should I lay 2 more layers of 1708 or is what I have now enough? I'll be hanging a Honda 50 4 stroke on the back.

Also my in my previous post I asked about using CSM to cover my seams from the 1708, will this be compatible with my epoxy resin? I want to crate a seamless look on the gunwales once I tab the floor in as well as cap the transom off with a few layers to compensate for the areas I sanded too thin.

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Cracker Larry
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Is it a waste of time to try and push the thickened epoxy under the stringers as they sit now or
No. That's exactly how I do it. In the picture I showed you earlier, this one, I'll post it again, I have the stringers spaced 1/8 higher than the hull bottom...

Image

With the spacers in place I tack glue it with spots of glue every couple of feet. When it cures, remove the spacers and build the fillets. I work one side at a time using my fillet tool and force the epoxy under the stringers/frames/ whatever/ it's all the same, use your fillet tool of choice to force the glue underneath until it comes out the other side. Then work the other side the same way.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by Cracker Larry »

It's best to work it wet on wet. I do one side of one stringer at a time. After it's tack glued and cured in place I brush on some neat epoxy, then lay the fillet, forcing it tight into the joint. Then I let that sit for a half hour or so to firm up a little bit, then brush it again with neat epoxy to smooth it out, and immediately lay on the tape and wet it out. Then move to the other side. No sanding required. Tack it all in first, then work in small sections that you can fillet and tape in one session.
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by FitzFisher »

I did a little trick using packing tape on the opposite side so you can put the putty in without it just going all over the place. If you lay the tape right it can form a nice radius on that side. Once it sets you can pull it right off. That way it doesn't sag out while you are moving down the line.
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by tech_support »

Also I cut the scuppers holes into the transom and the fiberglass seems awfully thin (2 layers of 1708). Before I go ahead and tab the stringers in should I lay 2 more layers of 1708 or is what I have now enough? I'll be hanging a Honda 50 4 stroke on the back.
You should replace with the same thickness that was there before.
Thanks for the replies. I'm set to cut the butt block probably later this week, just one more question about bedding the stringers. The grid is laid in nice in sturdy and it would make life so easy to apply the fillet as they sit in the pictures rather than picking them up, laying the thickened epoxy under the stringer, and lowering them back down. Is it a waste of time to try and push the thickened epoxy under the stringers as they sit now or should I try to lift each one individually up and lay the fillet under so its "bedded in"???
The glass is what you want transferring loads from the bottom up to the stringers. If you dont squeeze the epoxy under it, then the next best thing (text book actually) is to keep a tiny space under the stringers - the stringers do not actually touch the bottom. That is ideal and probably never happens even in the better production boats. Glassing the stringer sto the bottom while they sit on the bottom is not recommended
Also my in my previous post I asked about using CSM to cover my seams from the 1708, will this be compatible with my epoxy resin? I want to crate a seamless look on the gunwales once I tab the floor in as well as cap the transom off with a few layers to compensate for the areas I sanded too thin.
Yes, but depending on what brand of CSM you get it might turn into a big milky glob. CSM that are designed for epoxy (more stitching less binder) will wet out just fine, CSM with a lot of binder (powdery glue) will make a mess with epoxy. For filling in a depression though it really does not matter

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