Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
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Cracker Larry
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by Cracker Larry »

It won't hurt a thing, go duck hunting, you won't have to worry about messing up the paint :lol:
Completed GF12 X 2, GF16, OD18, FS18, GF5, GF18, CL6
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greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Been a while since my last post since I've had real limited time to work on the boat and just wanted to to ask a few final questions before I apply the paint. Since my last post in November I've sanded everything down with 80 grit paper including the original gel coat and the seams of the new fiberglass I put down on the deck and transom. Since I put down 12 oz mat for the deck do I have to sand the entire surface to prep for paint or can I just use fiberglass prep solvent to dissolve the amine blush so the paint will adhere? I ask this because sanding will only effect the "high spots" on the fiberglass mat and not the "valleys" unless I sand it down completely smooth which will compromise the thickness.
Also a while ago I asked about the 1708 I used for the transom which I wrapped over the top. There were some air bubbles due to the tight radius which I have since ground away. After sanding I found I sanded completely through the fiberglass on the top in some places so it isn't one continuous piece of glass anymore, now it's essentially two separate pieces. The glass seems to be adhered well but I want to avoid it lifting over time after I paint over it. Am I over thinking this or should I cover the transome cap with another piece of fiberglass? Maybe a piece of 12 oz mat?

I'll try and get a picture so I can better explain what I'm talking about if this makes no sense.

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tech_support
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Since I put down 12 oz mat for the deck do I have to sand the entire surface to prep for paint or can I just use fiberglass prep solvent to dissolve the amine blush so the paint will adhere? I ask this because sanding will only effect the "high spots" on the fiberglass mat and not the "valleys" unless I sand it down completely smooth which will compromise the thickness.
so your just going to paint over the weave? If so, what you describe will work. Sand the top, wipe down best you can.
Also a while ago I asked about the 1708 I used for the transom which I wrapped over the top. There were some air bubbles due to the tight radius which I have since ground away. After sanding I found I sanded completely through the fiberglass on the top in some places so it isn't one continuous piece of glass anymore, now it's essentially two separate pieces. The glass seems to be adhered well but I want to avoid it lifting over time after I paint over it. Am I over thinking this or should I cover the transom cap with another piece of fiberglass? Maybe a piece of 12 oz mat?
you need to fill the gap with epoxy putty.

If there were gaps along the sides or bottom, you would have to re-tab the two pieces together, but along the topside its more or less just for covering the wood

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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Shine
Thanks for the reply, I realize it's kinda hard to get what I'm asking but I think you get the gist of it. Instead of sanding the 12oz mat to prep for primer/paint, will going over it with a wire wheel to rough it up work instead of sanding and potentially thinning the thickness of the glass on the deck? Also does anyone know what soap is best to use to wash the deck prior to painting and using the fiberglass prep. To remove the amine blush?

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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Shine
Thanks for the reply, I realize what I'm trying to ask isn't that easy to understand but I think you get the gist of it. Since I only put two layers of 12oz down on the deck I'm trying to avoid sanding whenever possible so I can maintain the thickness of the glass. Instead of sanding is it better to go over the deck with a wire wheel or something similar to scratch the surface or is sanding the only way? And if I must sand do I have to create a flat surface or can I just go over lightly and leave the 12 oz mat's texture? I plan on covering with prime kote then kiwi grip so I think weave texture won't be able to be seen anyway. The most important thing is the getting the paint to stick so I never have to do it again.

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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Since I only put two layers of 12oz down on the deck I'm trying to avoid sanding whenever possible so I can maintain the thickness of the glass. Instead of sanding is it better to go over the deck with a wire wheel or something similar to scratch the surface or is sanding the only way?
your overthinking this :) you should sand the top of the 12 oz glass, you just go over it lightly with 60 grit. You are not going to remove much (if any) glass, you are just going to remove the stitching that is sticking up proud. This will leave you with only small dimples of weave to fill. You can then go right ot kiwigrip if you dont mind seeing the weave through the KG, or you can spread a thin mix of fairing compound (take very very little) over the deck, filling the weave. You only fill the weave, not build a layer. The whole deck of 19' should take maybe 2 pints of this faring "slurry".

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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by greymare89 »

Ok thank you

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