Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by greymare89 »

Ok so I will trace out the transom on the 1708 roll using my original transom template and then just add 4" to the sides and bottom for the first layer then 8" to the sides and bottom on the second layer, the top on both layers will be cut out conforming exactly to the template. Then the layer(s) of the 12oz tape will "cap" off the transom instead of overlaying the 1708 mat up and over the top. Should the 1708 be glassed on first followed by the tape or tape first then apply the 1708? All of the regardless of the order will be applied in one shot wet on wet correct?

Sorry for the ignorance but I went through all 50 pages on the forum and couldn't find any pictures of the glass being applied to the top of the transom, I only found the finished product.

greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by greymare89 »

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greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

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Hey guys its been a while since my last post but its been slow going due to time constraints. Anyway the transom is in but I have some concerns I want to bring attention to. In the first pic it shows my attempt to cap of the transom with two layers of the 12 oz tape. Needless to say it came out like complete crap so I sanded it all off and replaced it with two layers of 1708. Due to the multiple curves and contours near the motor well and top edge I found in a few spots the glass bubbled up and didn't adhere well. While sanding all the seams to get as close of a smooth finish as I could I sanded the raised up area caused by trying to bend the mat and by the time I was done I noticed I was down to either the thickened epoxy I used for a fillet or completely through the two layers of material I used to cap it all off.

My question is do I go back over the "thin spots" with patches of 1708 or 12oz tape or leave it be since I didn't make it down to the bare plywood? I feel like I'm playing with spackle, I put it on and and take it right back off..... If I don't sand it will show through the paint at the end and look like garbage. Here is a bit of a close up of one of the areas I'm talking about, the white area near the curve to the motor well. I didn't sand it down to the plywood but I def. went through the layers two layers of cap and down to the face layer(of the transom)

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The entire transom was put in as recommended:
2 layers of 12 oz tape for tabbing
2 layers of 1708 over face of transom overlapping by 4 and 8 inches
2 layers of 1708 for the cap (first layer 5 inches wide second layer 8 inches wide)
Should I go with more layers over the face and, more layers on the cap or do I leave it? Thanks

TRC886
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by TRC886 »

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I had the same trouble in the same places. After several attempts, I decided that it was "good enough".

OTOH: My project was simple enough that I'd have been time and money ahead by buying cheap ply, gluing it together with Elmer's glue, and painting it...then repeating every few years :lol:
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 8&start=10


When I get to this point on my SilverLine, I don't know if it'll be "good enough" or not. I hope that some of the more experienced guys will chime in with what/how they did it.

greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by greymare89 »

A few more close up pics of the areas of concern I'm talking about. Its a lot easier to show it than to describe it.....

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**** Also wanted to point out that the smooth woven side of the 1708 is the area that was sanded and the chopped strand mat side is facing inward. Is there a particular side of the 1708 that either facing in or out to make it easier to get that finished look? ****

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by NOTHING ELSE MATTERS »

Yes, mat side goes inwards, to finish the front of the 1708 you can use CSM or 6oz finished cloth.

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tech_support
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by tech_support »

probably not going tobe an isssue at all.


It the glass going up the sides and the transom that are transferring loads to the hull (that plus the stringers) . the glass over lapping the top is not doing much

greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by greymare89 »

Stringers are almost all done and ready to be put in( though the pictures only show two). just a few questions:

-Do I completely seal off the spaces between each stringer or do I leave a small cut out at the back where the stringers will be tabbed to the transom to allow water to drain into the bilge? One of the pictures show a center bulkhead with an oval cut out near the keel to allow water through, should I seal this off?

- Before I set the stringers in I was thinking about "tack welding" them in thickened epoxy every 24 inches or so, letting it set up and then going back and filleting and tabbing the entire stringer at once. OR I was going to set the entire stringer grid in place by tacking it together with temporary 2x4's and screws to keep the spacing, lifting the entire grid in one shot up off the skin of the boat and lay a bed of thickened epoxy under each stringer before lowering it back into place. OR option thee laying each stringer one at a time which will be extremely time consuming..... thoughts?


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greymare89
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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by greymare89 »

Oh and one more question I forgot to ask

I was thinking about purchasing a 10 yard roll of CSM to finish off the visible seams from the 1708 on the transom and up the sides of the boat once I lay the deck in. Can I use the epoxy resin I've been using all along or is the CSM not compatible with it? I've read polyester is the preferred resin to work with CSM since it dissolves the binders and makes it pliable. Will the epoxy and CSM be a waste of time and money to create a seamless look or should I sand everything down like I've been doing then cover with paint?

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Re: Another 18 Privateer rebuild

Post by Cracker Larry »

Before I set the stringers in I was thinking about "tack welding" them in thickened epoxy every 24 inches or so, letting it set up and then going back and filleting and tabbing the entire stringer at once. OR I was going to set the entire stringer grid in place by tacking it together with temporary 2x4's and screws to keep the spacing, lifting the entire grid in one shot up off the skin of the boat and lay a bed of thickened epoxy under each stringer before lowering it back into place.
I would use a combination of option 1 and 2. I set both stringers in place with a few 2X4 spacers to maintain the alignment and keep everything square. Prop it up off the hull about 1/8" or so with some shims, then tack glue it in place every couple of feet. Once the glue dries remove the shims and spacers, then fillet and tape.

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