1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
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Cracker Larry
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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by Cracker Larry »

Good point Wade. I started to bring that up initially, but don't know how to figure it either :doh: so I just answered the question for 5000 pounds. A plywood boat has a lot of flotation from the wood itself. To figure it accurately you would have to know the specific gravity of each component in the boat. That's why we pay Jacques the big bucks, so he can tell us how much we need :lol:

Edit: I see Joel posted the same time I did. Sorry :oops:
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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by NOTHING ELSE MATTERS »

Thank you guys for your answers.
Now, because i don't want to high jack Larry thread, Shine, i read everything you post about my question on ratio for 1708 and i understand what you are saying, but if i really want to find out the ratio just for me to know that i'm applying enough resin(or i don't), how can i figure that out?

Also, for the sole, do i use the same 1708 you gave me and how many layers, or do i have to get 12oz biax?

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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by tech_support »

12 oz is good for the top of the sole, 1708 would be overkill for normal use

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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by Chief Brody »

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS wrote:but if i really want to find out the ratio just for me to know that i'm applying enough resin(or i don't), how can i figure that out?
After cutting your fabric, you can weigh each piece and determine how much resin is required....if a section uses 5lbs of fabric, you'll need 5lbs of resin for a 50/50 glass to resin ratio. If you run short of resin, you know you're putting it on a little too heavy. This does not include what the wood core will soak up during pre-coat.

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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by NOTHING ELSE MATTERS »

One more question(out of thousands i have), my stringers are going to be 18' 3" long, they are 1/2" plywood doubled to make up one inch, what is the best way to join/divide in order to get the best performance out of them? Thank you.

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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by TomW »

The best way is to make them is so there is at least a 2' overlap between the seams of the two differerent sides of the stringer. You will need to make them out of 3 peices since they are over 16' long. So plan on making your seams 2' apart as you lay out the peices. Say start with a 6' peice on one an 8' peice on the other until you get the full length.
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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by NOTHING ELSE MATTERS »

O.K, removed the rotted plywood from the transom, sand everything nice and smooth, what's next ?
Do i have to clean with alcohol the old fiberglass?
I was thinking of making the transom plywood first to the 1 3/4 thickness i want, then mix some resin with wood flour for glue.
Do i apply the glue to the boat transom AND the plywood, or just on one ? I know i have to coat the plywood with resin before in order to absorb some resin, do i have to wait for that resin to dry?

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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by gk108 »

Do i have to clean with alcohol the old fiberglass?
Acetone would be the best solvent for cleaning. It will get any oily residue out of there.
I was thinking of making the transom plywood first to the 1 3/4 thickness i want,
You could, but things have a tendency to wander around a bit when assembling. With the way your boat is made with the small insert, it might be the most practical way.
Do i apply the glue to the boat transom AND the plywood, or just on one ?
Both sides. Use a notched spreader to apply the glue and you'll get a nice even glue joint if you apply clamping pressure evenly. No need to let that first coat of neat epoxy set up first, it will be better to go wet on wet as much as possible around your transom.
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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by NOTHING ELSE MATTERS »

Thanks gk108.
I spend the whole day making a template for the transom then cut 3 pieces of plywood (1/2"-3/4"-1/2"), i coated the sides that were going to glue together with 3 coats of resin, then while was still tacky i made up some glue with wood flour and glue them together. I clamped them together and will leave them over night to cure( i was done gluing around 4 PM.

Question. I have some holes on the transom which i like to close, basically old screw holes. Do i have to apply a small piece of the 6" 12oz tape i have before i spread the glue or the glue it's self will plug those holes?

I really like to work with epoxy, never did before, i always used polyester, this stuff gives you a lot more working time and the resin spreads very good with the roller.
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Re: 1981 FORMULA F233 RESTORATION

Post by NOTHING ELSE MATTERS »

shine wrote:
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS wrote:One more question.
Floor frames:
1-Do i bring them to touch the side of the boat of i have to leave a space?
2-Do i install them on the floor or i have to leave a space same as the stringers?
Tiny gap all around is ideal, let the glass tabbing carry the loads
Joel, i'm a little confused. If i raise the stringers let's say 1/4", when i apply the fillets, do i squeeze the mix to go under the gap(do i have a hard spot this way?) or i just apply it at the edge on the stringer?

Also, Joel, i've been thinking of what you told me in the beginning and wanted to bring the stringers all the way to the transom. If i do that, i will have a span of 35" between the two inner stringers. The way i figured is that will have enough room for at least TWO 5" stringers by the keel and have the 1 1/4" drain pipe in the middle, then install a flat sub floor to be the floor where the tank will seat.
This is a "cut away" drawing so you know what i'm talking about
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