1981 Grady White 240 Offshore - Transom Replacement

[gw204]

I would push your cut line about 2" closer to the center of the hatch to keep it away from the corners of the recess. For cutting across the motor well, go with the yellow line.

Another thing to think about... Even it you raise the sides to be even with the center section, that is still a VERY low cut transom. I would seriously consider raising the center another 5" and also building in some splash guards like Cracker Larry shows. Then put a 5" extension on your motor.

Lastly, have you evaluated the stringers yet? If no, do that before you go any farther.

[jacquesmm]

I second the idea of raising what I call the motorwell bulkhead.
It doesn't require more work and will increase safety.
Cracker Larry's work is a good example.

To move that cutting line a couple inches over the hatch etc. is a good idea.

[jacquesmm]

BTW, the part that GW204 offers looks good. We"ll consider it a cosmetic liner and will save you a lot of fairing.

[Cracker Larry]

Also the way you fixed the previous hinge down 'back' into place. Does it not interfere with the motor when up?

No, we put the motor on a 6" setback jack plate which gave plenty of clearance. This boat is an offshore commercial fishing boat and the owner was sick of working with wet feet. That original hinged board does almost nothing to stop waves from coming in the boat.

You built a completely new deck to replace the section you cut out.
What was your reasoning for that?

The original had some rot and soft spots. It had to go.

It looks good !
How long did the project take?

Thanks! It took me about 2 months, working full time. The boat had some other issues that needed repairing also.

Going across the deck I see no problem with cutting. However going up the sides when next to the outer hull what is the best method/tool(s) to use?

A good quality oscillating multi-tool. I use a Rockwell Sonic Crafter. It's very easy to control depth and cuts FG like butter, with very little dust. Also makes a very narrow kerf and is much safer than any saw or grinder. You can hold your hand on the blade and it won't hurt you. Every boat shop needs one

[Cracker Larry]

I also made the same sort of repairs to another commercial boat, a 27 Parker. For the same reasons. To keep the water out. On the Parker we opted to make a full height transom and installed an Armstrong bracket for the engine. The transom was solid, no rot, so I just built it up and put a deck across the top of it. This is even better from a seaworthy standpoint. Commercial fishermen don't stay home when the weather is bad, these boats fish every day except for hurricanes.

Before..



After..








Done..goodbye

[jacquesmm]

Copied from email:

I am going to go with plywood. I understand there is a few different types. Which is best for my project XL, 6566, 1088 etc?
The web site suggests using XL Fir (3/4" only) but reading a number of the forum articles some have used Meranti 1088

You can use plywood but I thought we had removed all references to that XL fir. We prefer not to use it anymore. Too many voids. We don't sell it. Get Meranti, the 6566 cost barely more than the old Fir has no voids at all. Several layers either from 1/2" or 3/4".

So from your listed items below can I order all online straight of the web site or do you have another process for certified projects?

Please order from the web site but since you gave a deposit, mention that in the comment field and we will discount that amount manually, before final processing. It is not automatic, the total will not show the discount but you will be charged less.

I can not believe I have had 318 views of my project since Tuesday....Amazing (probably 30 are me...but anyway...a lot !)

Those Grady White boats are all over. The hulls are solidly built and often worth a good rebuild.

[scubapk01]

I would push your cut line about 2" closer to the center of the hatch to keep it away from the corners of the recess. For cutting across the motor well, go with the yellow line.

OK that make sense. Just trying to give myself as much working room as poosible.

Another thing to think about... Even it you raise the sides to be even with the center section, that is still a VERY low cut transom. I would seriously consider raising the center another 5" and also building in some splash guards like Cracker Larry shows. Then put a 5" extension on your motor.

Good idea. I will speak with the mechanic that worked on my motor to see what is involved. Even though only intending to stay in side the bay .....you never know

Lastly, have you evaluated the stringers yet? If no, do that before you go any farther.

Not yet. What is the best location to inspect them. Near the transom they sound good. Once I get the cap off and start cutting back that should give me a good indication. On the tutorial it was mentioned numerous times to cut them back further then the example shown. What was the reasoning for that?

[scubapk01]

No, we put the motor on a 6" setback jack plate which gave plenty of clearance.

Can you give me some details on where you purchased or go the jack plate made?
Sounds like a good idea.

Thanks also for the tip on the oscillating tool. Already have one. Though for the main cutting on the top plate is a grinder better?

[scubapk01]

Get Meranti, the 6566 cost barely more than the old Fir has no voids at all. Several layers either from 1/2" or 3/4".

So I have a 2in Transom.
Either 4 layers of 1/2" ply (4 sheets) or 3 layers of 3/4" ply (3 sheets).
Is 4 x 1/2in or 3 x 3/4in or better or no real difference?
Handling the plywood the 1/2 may be easier.
Also the Tutorial of the 1984 Grady White said the the transom plywood was not one full piece across (for each layer) in order to make it fit (i assume they mean to get it under the top section at the side)
Does this weaken it?
If I was to do similar where should the various cuts / joins be (obviously not in the same locations but staggered)

[Cracker Larry]

Can you give me some details on where you purchased or go the jack plate made?

Right here. Bateau.com is a dealer for Bob's jack plates and are about 10% less than on Bob's website.

Though for the main cutting on the top plate is a grinder better?

No. A circular trim saw, or jig saw is much better and safer. I use a grinder only as a last resort. It's an implement of destruction, both to boats and body parts. I make the main cut with a circular saw, a jig saw on the corners and the multi-tool up the sides and where the big saws can't reach.