1981 Grady White 240 Offshore - Transom Replacement

[scubapk01]

Hello to all. I came across this site while Googling Transom repairs.
I can not tell you how happy I am with the information here and the support and advice I have read. Hopefully my project will goes as well as others here.

Here is my project....a 1981 Grady White 240 Offshore - Transom Replacement.



Length : 24ft
Beam : TBA
Engine : Yamaha 225 (Yet model no says it is 175.....so a little confused there)
I will post the technical info about beam and Stringers etc in my next post later tonight as I do not have that on hand.

I actually found the Tutorial for the 1984 Grady White Transom Replacement
-- Transom Replacement with a plywood core --

I have been on the water for years as a scuba diving instructor in Brisbane Australia, but now live south of Boston.
This is my first boat and like many the price of a new boat was outside of our budget. I started out in Marine Electronics 25 years ago and work in the 2 Way Radio industry. I have always been a DIY guy with projects including complete remodel of bathrooms and kitchen as well as repowering a 4WD vehicle from a straigh 4 cyc to V6.
So I feel confident to tackle this project.

To date I have stripped out the years of reworked old wiring and fuse panels and update with new wire and fuse panels.



Basic clean up has gone pretty good and there are chips and some stress cracks in the flooring in some areas but nothing I would not expect from a 35 year old boat. There are numerous things that the previous boat owner did that did surprise me.
My main concern is replacing the transom.
Here are a few pics of what I am dealing with

Removed trim to expose opening in fiber glass and exposing the rotten transom plywood


Hair line crack down transom (hard to see in pic)


Missing Thu Hole


Engine mounting bolt (looks close to top ?)


The width at the top of the transom is about 2.5 inches.....yet is "thicker" the lower you go down the transom.
Under the top engine mount bolt holes it is about 3 inches. So guessing the motor's weight is pulling it back.

Now from the inside bilge area......
Bottom 2 bolts for engine mounting




The Missing piece








I keep the boat under a tarp when it rains and open all hatches and access panels including to the fuel tank area.
Every day I dry out the bilge and then it fills up.....guessing from water draining out of the rotten plywood transom.


Not sure what is going on with the Fiberglass on the top of the stringers ...


Let the work being......with my little helper


Motor is coming off Wednesday night after getting the engine tuned up by a mechanic.

Started by removing the side battery/storage compartments. On the tutorial they were integrated with the deck where as mine (older boat) were add on.

Removed - Trim Tab pump and trim Tabs also removed........notice the large holes everywhere they were for a kicker motor mount. They will be filled in later.


I hope this information and pictures help in understanding my project. If anyone wants more info please advise.
I look forward to all comments and feed back is welcome.

As per the "How to get help on your boat project !!" introduction I will be making a small deposit later today.

Regards
Paul Kelly
scubapk01

[jacquesmm]

And also, see the different tutorials we have about transom replacement:
One about a Grady White:
http://bateau2.com/howto/transom_repair/index.php
and this one:
http://bateau2.com/howto/aquasport/index.php
and more here:
http://bateau2.com/howto/repair.php
and some here:
http://bateau2.com/howto/seacraft/index.php

[Cracker Larry]

I made almost the identical repairs to a 27' Sea Ox. The boat was built just like yours. New transom, a real motor well bulkhead to keep the waves out, and a new rear deck. Repair pictures at http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1333

Before:





After:

[scubapk01]

Hi Cracker Larry,
Your rebuild look great. Better then new. I like the way you extended the sides in.
Also the way you fixed the previous hinge down 'back' into place. Does it not interfere with the motor when up?
I like the hinge down feature as have a number of small kids and will make water exit a lot easier even though it has the down side of water access from waves.
I too want to extend the transom height up a few inches to give a little more freeboard height on the stern.

You built a completely new deck to replace the section you cut out.
What was your reasoning for that?
It looks good !
How long did the project take?

[scubapk01]

Hi Jacquesmm,
Thanks for the links you supplied. Read over most of them and pretty much what I was expecting.
I signed up and made purchase to get the additional "professional" parts list and assistance.

I am doing this in my back yard while still on the trailer. Motor was taken off last night

Ready to start now.
Firsts thing is to know how and where to support the boat before I make the cuts in the deck in order to access the inside of the transom. Stop the "Oil Can" affect as you put it.
Then the best location to cut.

Thanks
scubapk01

[jacquesmm]

The cuts in the deck are not going to change the shape. Deck beam braces are needed only if you remove the whole deck.

The best location to cut is probably where the motorwell ends, where that hinged panel sits. That way you can rebuild as Cracker Larry did.

[scubapk01]

The cuts in the deck are not going to change the shape. Deck beam braces are needed only if you remove the whole deck.

The best location to cut is probably where the motorwell ends, where that hinged panel sits. That way you can rebuild as Cracker Larry did.

Understood. Good to know I do not require additional brackets. Thank you.

I still want to keep that hinged panel. Currently that part of the deck is a little lower to allow for the panel when lowered and walked on. Red line on drawing
Large screw down panel (yellow line) with inspection hatch.
But I get the idea.
Not the best picture below....but green line is where I was considering cutting.
I will take a better picture tonight and post showing in more detail

Thank you

[gw204]

Are you planning to raise that little aft section of the floor so it's the same height as the main floor? If not, go with the green line. If so, red but keep it tight to the dip. Looks like you'll have enough of the lip around the hatch left to do your grinding and glassing w/out getting into the hatch recess.

Another question...

Are you going to keep it an open transom, or close it in and add a bracket? If you are bracketing, today is your lucky day... I just took my '86 Seafarer 227 to the dump as I abandoned the project due to lack of time. However, I cut out every usable part. This included the aft sections of the cap and liner. These would save you tons of time and fab work. I have the seat box covers and the center folding lid as well. Should all drop right in and require minimal glass work.





I know you are far away from MD, but if you're interested, make me an offer. Not looking for much, just hoped to get back some of what I had invested in the project. I've got tons of other parts too if you need anything.

[scubapk01]

Are you planning to raise that little aft section of the floor so it's the same height as the main floor? If not, go with the green line. If so, red but keep it tight to the dip. .........
....
Are you going to keep it an open transom, or close it in and add a bracket? If you are bracketing, today is your lucky day... I just took my '86 Seafarer 227 to the dump as I abandoned the project due to lack of time. .......

gw204,
Thank you very much for the advise and offer on parts.
I intend to keep the aft section lower as per original design so when the back section is lowered down it is level.

Here is a better picture indicating my intended cut line (Red).


From a different angle


Going across the deck I see no problem with cutting. However going up the sides when next to the outer hull what is the best method/tool(s) to use?

Also where should my cuts be across the stern?
Red line along the actual stern section or Yellow on the capping to start with


As mentioned I want to raise the stern a bit and make it level across he help stop a little more water from coming over the back

[scubapk01]

Transom Measurements