Sintes 21 Rebuild

[Fuzz]

Eric and Topwater thanks for the info. I am a long ways from building the cabin but I am trying to work up a material list. sort of hard to do when you are still working on the overall plan.

[Eric1]

Fuzz my pilot house sides , cabin sides and roof are 3/8". The pilot house top is 5/8 " divinycell foam with one layer of
12 oz biaxe each side.

I like the idea of foam for the top. I'll bet that cuts the weight down a good bit. I've seen a you tube video of a Yacht builder doing a top from foam/glass and carbon fiber. It turned out really nice.

[BB Sig]

Not speaking from experience!

Jacques has routinely said not to expect weight savings when using foam. His reasoning in the past four using foam in this instance has been due to cabin comfort. Apparently, the use of wood will cause the moisture to build up on the inside where the foam doesn't have that issue. He could explain it better!

The weight savings would be me due to using Moore layers to support the cabin.

I would get a second, more experienced opinion though!

[Fuzz]

Divinacell is really nice to work with. My first skiff was built using it. Later I built the cabin of a 32 foot gillnet boat with it. The cabin was nice because no sweating and was warmer. It is a bit of a pain any place you need to fasten to. This was way before I knew anything about using epoxy. I am not sure I will fully enclose this cabin. Maybe just something to keep the wind and rain off of me. I am still trying to work a plan out in my head

[topwater]

I don't think my top weighed 10 lb. If you want to save weight up high that's the way to do it .
Also because i used foam i didn't have to put additional support under it like you would with ply,
makes for a cleaner install. because of the camber in the top it's real strong " i can kneel on it
and it doesn't move " and that's with one layer of glass each side.

[Fuzz]

BB Sig and TopWater ,
You guys have me thinking and that can lead to bad places It just so happens I have three sheets of 5/8 divincell laying around the shop. I very well might use them for this project. Now I have more to ponder over

[Jaysen]

Someone call the Russians. Tell them we need fuzz's wife sent back ASAP. Trouble is brewing. Just tell her "he's thinking". That should be adequate.

[Fuzz]

Someone call the Russians. Tell them we need fuzz's wife sent back ASAP. Trouble is brewing. Just tell her "he's thinking". That should be adequate.

As long as when she returns and finds her dog and plants still alive I should be ok. I guess I should add and no more boats in the yard. I bought one when she was gone last time and it was not good for me Dang Russians have no sense of humour they go from I am not pleased with you straight to here is your nuke

[seaslug]

Hey Fuzz, Been following along the entire build, and the boat is looking great. I like the foam idea, and as you've seen in person, Johns' boat is beautifully done, and I was really impressed with the hard top. If you're concerned with having a top more solid to anchor to, but still remaining very light in weight, I built a hard top years ago for a 41' sportfish by making a simple mold with 2x6's cut on a camber, screwing down plywood, than covering with clear plastic sheeting. I used kiln dried Cedar ordered from the west coast, probably Oregon, milled down to 1/4" thick by 2" wide strips. The first layer went down with a pin nailer, so the nails could be pulled out later, than the remaining 2 layers in opposing directions slathered heavily with thickened epoxy, held down with stainless staples to be left in. Popped right out of the mold, and at 100 sq. feet was light as a feather for its size. Cut it to the desired size and shape, made a beautiful Mahogany border, and did a V groove varnished Teak underside that made it the most beautiful hard top I've ever seen on a sportfish. Of course it was glassed top and bottom also. Anyway, just another way of doing it, and very easy. Mike

[Fuzz]

Hey Fuzz, Been following along the entire build, and the boat is looking great. I like the foam idea, and as you've seen in person, Johns' boat is beautifully done, and I was really impressed with the hard top. If you're concerned with having a top more solid to anchor to, but still remaining very light in weight, I built a hard top years ago for a 41' sportfish by making a simple mold with 2x6's cut on a camber, screwing down plywood, than covering with clear plastic sheeting. I used kiln dried Cedar ordered from the west coast, probably Oregon, milled down to 1/4" thick by 2" wide strips. The first layer went down with a pin nailer, so the nails could be pulled out later, than the remaining 2 layers in opposing directions slathered heavily with thickened epoxy, held down with stainless staples to be left in. Popped right out of the mold, and at 100 sq. feet was light as a feather for its size. Cut it to the desired size and shape, made a beautiful Mahogany border, and did a V groove varnished Teak underside that made it the most beautiful hard top I've ever seen on a sportfish. Of course it was glassed top and bottom also. Anyway, just another way of doing it, and very easy. Mike

Mike I would love to see a picture of the cedar hard top if you have one. It sounds like a work of art. I am still thinking about what to use on the cabin. Heck I am still trying to figure out what it is going to look like. As much as I appreciate beautiful wood work I know it is beyond me. Man has to know his limitations I am sure every boat that was at last years boat builders meet was better than my best but that does not stop me from loving them.
I have three needs at this point for the boat.
1. It must have a head for SWMBO
2 It must be able to keep 2-4 people out of the weather at least when running. There no plan for ever sleeping on the boat, just daytrip fishing.
3. I must be able to set and retrieve the anchor without having to walk on outside decks. I want very little to no chance of falling over the side.
At this time I use a buoy to pull the anchor. It works good and you can do it all from the back deck but there is a degree of risk doing it that way. I anchor in 5-6 knots of current all the time. If you screw up and get the line in the prop you have big problems. I have two different friends who had this happen to them. Before they could do a thing the boat was swamped and they were washed away. One group made it and one did not. So if I can get away from the buoy deal I want to.