Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
fallguy1000
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

I am using the remote drain swtch vs bending over into a 20" deep well.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

boguesounder
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Yeah, that is a cool idea. It will save a lot of people with boats on lift, etc some headache. Also nice to be sure your plug is in when getting underway.

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OrangeQuest
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by OrangeQuest »

I am using a lot of the Flow-rite stuff for my tank wells. It is a V3 system but with two serviceable 3-way valves to control two wells with one pump. So far it has worked very nicely in the "lab". Which means I connected a cooler that you can screw a water hose to and filled the cooler up to see what water level was needed to get the pump primed. The system worked the way Flow-rite says it will work.
3678

Ordered enough of their 3/4" hose to use on the two bilge pumps too. As you can see I am using their quick connect fittings. When I was ordering everything I also ordered the decal on how to use the system and extra O-rings and a few other spares.

One thing I like about the system is when select "DRAIN" the system will drain the well when on plane or once the boat is on the trailer. When you put it back in the water if it is still on drain it blocks water from getting into the system till you turn the pump on and flip to "Auto"
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
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boguesounder
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Orange,
I was checking out the quick connect fittings. It would certainly make any needed maintenance easier. Do they seem like they will stand some abuse and time?

fallguy1000
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

boguesounder wrote: Tue Jan 01, 2019 3:21 pm Yeah, that is a cool idea. It will save a lot of people with boats on lift, etc some headache. Also nice to be sure your plug is in when getting underway.
My drain is above dwl..

I am making my own version.

Gonna have two switches. On to fill and one for the aerator and the drain is mechanical switch.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

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OrangeQuest
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by OrangeQuest »

They have not been used out in the real world yet but I tried to limit stress and strain on any of the fittings. They are very easy to assembly. I cut all my hoses a little long and then cut to the exact length. Pulled one of the fittings off and slid the clamps on, positioned the fitting so the lock key was easiest to get to and didn't hit anything and crimped. Once you build the hose it is one hand to connect. The O-ring is far enough from the end of the fitting that the quick lock is already on the end before it gets to the O-ring so very hard to cut the O-ring. But, the O-ring is external so easy to pop a new one on. I could see where over the years the grease could dry out and stick but a quick twist should break it loose.

They seem to be well made. I am using their clamps on their hoses. I use nipper cutters to crimp the clamps and you can't over tighten them. Easy one hand to connect and disconnect. Easy to see the red key is in the lock position. My well drains for the tanks are in blind holes and not as easy to connect or disconnect but easier than trying to use hose clamps if I need to service. Out of the 30 or so fittings I don't see any flash on the fittings like the white nylon fittings. They come with a very expensive grease on the O-rings but I add a little plump's grease before connecting. I don't see any down side to using them other than They take up more room than just a fitting and a clamp.
"that it isn't just an ordinary sort of boat. Sometimes it's a Boat, and sometimes it's more of an Accident. It all depends." "Depends on what?" "On whether I'm on the top of it or underneath it."
A. A. Milne

TRC886
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by TRC886 »

boguesounder wrote: Tue Jan 01, 2019 3:06 pm I have some fuel line and wire that I will test pull to make sure it will work out before the sole goes down. Hoping some cable lube will do the trick if it is tight. If I can't get it to pull easily, I will redo using a series of 45s and 22s. Have you had trouble with 90's? I've never ran motor wiring and steering through a tube before so don't really know what to expect. I was encouraged by FallGuy's info regarding sim yamaha stating everything would fit in one 2" tube.
I just posted but don't know where it went :doh: :doh: :doh: I'll try again.

As an electrician, I've pulled a lot of wire thru pipe, but never in a boat. Sometimes, "slickum" really helps! I think you have everything under control in good shape, but I will remind you to keep all wires, cables, etc straight as you're feeding them into the conduits. When wires cross each other, they can get hard to pull thru a 90. Also, add a few spare wires, or at least a pull string, for future expansion.

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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

TRC,
Cool, thanks for that follow-up and tips on pulling wire. Spare wire idea is great. I need to make a note to put that in now rather than later when I've forgotten!

Orange, that system is slick. You guys are building some really impressive boats. Thanks for slumming it with me over here! ha.

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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Man, I just typed a book and accidentally lost it...I now see the save draft button below. argh

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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Take two on this post. I haven't had much time to work on her after the holidays. However I have been buying a lot of stuff while planning the plumbing and electronics. Basically, I want to install a 3/4" thru hull with to the seacock feeding the johnson livewell pump that runs 3/4" hose to the livewell. The 1.25" seacock and thru hull draining the livewell. The bilge is tight, but seems to mock up ok. I haven't drilled any holes yet but have been measuring everything out.This is what I've purchased so far:

-Motorguide Xi3 70SW (good deal on after christmas sale)
-Lowrance 9ti (bought on black friday)
-Groco THXL-750-W (https://www.groco.net/products/fittings ... extra-long)
-Groco THXL-1250-W
-Groco FBV-750 https://www.groco.net/products/valves-s ... fbv-valves
-Groco FBV-1250
-Groco FF-1250 https://www.groco.net/products/fittings ... ow/ff-1250
-Seacock backing plates from this guy Don (https://dreamgreen.org/backing-plates/g ... king-plate). Easy transaction, quick shipping, nice tapping, good quality.
-Johnson Ultima 1000 gph bilge pump with electronic switch
-Johnson 750 gph dual port livewell aerating pump (already had)
-Stern pad in the jumbo size: https://www.amazon.com/Stern-Pad-Screwl ... B06XFKBTY1
-EZ Pump transom pick-up in white: https://www.amazon.com/Marine-EZBLK1DP- ... 8-fkmrnull
-A bunch of stainless hose clamps to be doubled on all connections.
-Bronze attwood garboard drain: https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Bronze-G ... 1-fkmrnull

The links aren't where I bought everything, but just a reference. This is not my boat, it is a different and larger hull but is a decent precedent photo with intake, drain, scuppers, and garboard drain:
Image

Thanks for taking the time to view and I'm happy to hear any thoughts or feedback.

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