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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 8:18 pm
by boguesounder
Quick update on a little work from today and last weekend.

Still working on the thru hulls for livewell intake and drain, bilge pump setup, etc. Last week I over-drilled the two thru hulls and filled with thickened epoxy. Not sure where I saw the packing tape trick, but I am grateful for whoever shared that. Today I drilled the epoxy to fit the thru hulls. I also cut the thru hulls to fit. I was a bit nervous about this as they are somewhat pricey but it went remarkably well. I ended up dry fitting the thru hulls to the backing block and seacocks. I intend to install permanently tomorrow with thickened epoxy on the backing block and 4200 on the thru hull and seacock connections.

Pictures are worth a thousand words:

Overdrilling. 35 year sealed old marine ply looking pretty good!
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Filled with thickened epoxy (not photo'd) and drilled:
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Drilled out and cleaned up all the small holes and nicks and filled with thickened epoxy using syringe while I was at it:
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Dry fitting thru hulls:
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Cutting thru hulls to correct length, using the nut for minor thread repair after cut:
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Working out the backing block and silicone bronze hardware:
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Dry fit again:
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Sanded entire transom, cleaned things up, and final dry fit:
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Interior view of dry fit showing backing block and seacock on intake and drain. I plan on switching the direction of handle on the right ballcock:
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 8:38 pm
by boguesounder
In addition to the thru hull work from above, I want to replace the bilge drain while I'm at it. The current drain is an old school drain tube with flanged ends and a rubber plug. Presumably it has been on the boat for 35 years. Seems to have worked well, but figured while I'm at it I should update.

While I was buying my other hardware I picked up a bronze garboard drain. http://www.attwoodmarine.com/store/prod ... lug--Brass
I got this one because it had the widest screw hole spread I could find but I'm not married to it.

My question is what do I connect this to? I've read several threads on other sites about this topic but recognize the bateau crowd has the best collective knowledge. Options:

1. Remove old drain tube, fill with epoxy, redrill and insert pvc or glass pipe sized to match back of new garboard drain, cut flush on interior? Using caution to overdrill / epoxy fill screw holes on exterior.

2. Dunno #2. Ha. Any other suggestions or best practices for this?

Thanks for any input. Photo for clarity:

Old drain tube:
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New drain idea:
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 10:28 am
by TRC886
You're doing some really nice work there :!:

RE: Drain hole: I'm old school...I like the rubber plugs with the flip lever to plug the hole, and I like it on the inside of the transom if it's easily accessible. I like to keep the plug out when I'm not using the boat so that any water can run out, and not have to rely on batteries and pumps to keep the boat dry. Using a pipe plug will certainly seal the hole, but it's going to get old in a hurry, having to constantly get a wrench to remove/install the plug.

Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 1:47 pm
by Fuzz
TRC886 is exactly correct. Nice looking work you are doing. The garboard plugs or the old school rubber ones both have good and bad points so use what you like. I have gone to putting my plugs on the inside of the boat. I like to be able to get to them with the boat in the water. Also if you do the old classic and forget the plug you can save some face by putting it in with the boat in the water :lol:

Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 2:41 pm
by fallguy1000
Here in Minnesota, we have a drain plug law. No drain allowed in the boat while on the road. To avoid transferring lakes water from lake to lake.

The inside drain is a major pain, so we had to move ours to the outside.

Make sure to overbore and refill all drain fixture holes. Then drill them again and install with a 3M marine sealer.

Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2019 5:29 pm
by OrangeQuest
I traded out the plug mine came with a socket plug so it is a little more flush. Then added a spacer to get it inline with the bottom of the hull on the inside. Also honed the inside of the drain so can get all the water out. On our canoe we use a garboard plug and I like using a 1/2" PVC plug I can tighten with my hands. I then keep a spare in the cup holder. If you want to use that kind of drain and a little peace of mind if you forget to put the plug in. They make a 1/2" drain plug for kayaks that has the flip lever that you can use on the inboard side.

Fallguy I don't understand how not removing the plug after the boat is removed from a body of water keeps from transporting invasion species from lake to lake. In Texas you are required to pull the plug before leaving the area. From TPWD website:
Stop Aquatic Hitchhikers!


Water Draining Rule:

Invasive zebra mussels have infested several Texas lakes. The microscopic larvae of this species can't be seen with the naked eye, but they can travel from one watershed to another in a bilge or livewell. To curb the spread of zebra mussels, boaters and anglers in public fresh waters are required to drain all water from boats and onboard receptacles before leaving or approaching a water body.

Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 6:08 am
by fallguy1000
Putting the plug lever inside for states with the plug law is a pita. You'll see.

Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 6:49 am
by Jaysen
OQ I think you misread fallguy. I read his post as “you can’t have a plug in the hole once you’ve left the ramp”. I could be wrong though.

Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 7:06 am
by fallguy1000
To be clear, if you plug from the inside; you must pull the plug after you put the boat on the trailer and before you launch. This generally requires getting up and into the boat both times.

Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 7:43 am
by OrangeQuest
fallguy1000 wrote: Mon Feb 04, 2019 7:06 am To be clear, if you plug from the inside; you must pull the plug after you put the boat on the trailer and before you launch. This generally requires getting up and into the boat both times.
Oh sorry Fallguy, my reading comprehension sucks! Had the problem since birth. :)

Thanks Jaysen, I re-read it and now it makes sense.