Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
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bobmaes
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by bobmaes »

My tank is below deck. The boat, which is a 1989, originally came with an 18 gallon tank that measured something like 80" by 20" by 4" deep. Because I raised the deck height in my boat, I was able to increase the tank depth to 6" and increase the capacity to 30 gallons.



boguesounder
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Fuzz,
I did find that thread but didn't reach out to anyone for it yet. I hate to have it if others are in need. I need to circle back on the drain question. I just filled it with some leftover thickened epoxy for the time being.

Thanks for the reminder and offer of yours - very kind.

boguesounder
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Bob,
Thanks for the info. 30 gallons would be nice. My plans are to keep a 24 gallon on deck. My plans are always subject to change. But pretty sure it will stay on deck as I have my stringers worked out and the bilge is shallow. I also raised my deck 2" in this renovation.

I have a goofy idea to have an small piece fabricated similar to a scuba tank rack and bench - without the rack piece to hold the gas tank under and provide some seating on the front deck.

Something along the lines of this but a much smaller version (not my boat):
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I've seen plenty of examples where people make a box for the front of the console also. I may go that route also. Still looking at ideas.

Slickcav
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by Slickcav »

boguesounder wrote: Sun Jul 01, 2018 1:09 pm Hi, thanks for the question. It is not a cored hull. Solid glass. The center stringer is recessed into the keel. The only way to remove it is to cut the tabbing away flush with the hull and then come back and chisel out the the 3/4" or so of wood below that line - if that makes sense? The old aquasports are the same way. Upon rebuild, some folks will foam then glass over this cavity and then tab the stringer on top. I plan to put it back the way it was from the manufacturer. If you can zoom on this photo, you will see what I mean:

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I would add also that the stringers actually had plenty of life in them. The only exception is where someone drilled a hole through the deck in the anchor locker to drain to bilge (?) and some rot had occurred on the bow portion of the center stringer. Transom seems very much intact with no wet or discolored wood from the many test holes I drilled.

I'm raising the sole and scuppers about 1.5". Knocked out the scuppers, applied some hot epoxy, and filling with thickened epoxy.
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Went fishing in brother's boat...broke down at 5am a few miles from the ramp...tow of shame. Thankful for SeaTow. Boat back up and running.
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Cutting out stringers. 3/4" Okume 1088 Sandwiched for original thickness of 3/4". Staggered joints.
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Test fitting to hull. Keeping off hull to avoid hard spots. The 2x4's are just to help me working alone.
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Daughter just walked in and insisted I add a smiley face somewhere, so just for her: :D

what did you use for your stringer measurements/pattern/cutting?

Slickcav
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by Slickcav »

fallguy1000 wrote: Sun Jul 01, 2018 6:13 pm Not a fan of the method of the stringer deep in...
would you go away with this center stringer? or what would be your adjustment?

fallguy1000
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Your work is exceptional and clean. The reason I don't like the deep stringer is simply that any rot left there is a source of rot spores for the next piece of wood.

If you alleviate that through clean workmanship and careful cleaning; it will be fine.

If you cannot remove it all; then encapsulate any rotten wood in flowable thickened epoxy before setting the new stringers.

(My comments were made before I saw your work)
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

fallguy1000
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Nice rebuild!
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

boguesounder
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Thanks guys. I've been working and need to give an update. I'll get some photos together soon and do so.

SlickCav - I did reinstall the center stringer. I think you and I have spoke on THT about your privateer. Very nice.

FallGuy- thanks. I was able to get the center stringer really clean prior to putting one back in. I also used some small pieces of foam to set it firmly in place while "tack" welding with epoxy. I feel pretty good about no hardspot creation. Sorry, thought I updated on that. I got hung up on the thru hulls I think! ha.

Recent work has included tearing out my first pass at rigging tubes that were clearly not going to work. So, I reran a larger one with a 22.5 degree turn. I think this should suffice. I also cut out and dry fit my sole.

I do need the drain flaring tools. I posted on that thread, but slow response. I think I may just order the 1" one from WM. It is pretty affordable there. Wish I had one local cause shipping is about as much as the tool....such is life.

Thanks guys. Will put a proper post together soon.

boguesounder
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

SlickCav,
Sorry - I'm a little slow sometimes...just realized you were asking FallGuy his opinion on your new build. I'm excited to watch yours. Your last was awesome. Can't believe you sold that! I'd eat my breakfast everyday in that thing just for happiness.

Thanks for the followup FallGuy.

boguesounder
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Re: Privateer Retriever Rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Thought I'd give an update. I've redone my chase tubes, installed a new drain with flaring tool, installed bilge pump, and cut out and installed sole since my last update.

Here are a few pics. I didn't do the best job at photographing details of the work. I find pics and epoxy work really difficult to manage together.

Cut out the 90 degree chase tube, installed new 3" with one 22.5 degree bend. Left the other 2" in case needed.
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Cut out sole, cut out armstrong access hatch, dry fit, glassed bottom side.
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Dry fit again, and installed sole using thickened epoxy as glue.
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