It varies but in the middle which is the worst part it’s about 3/8s of an inch.boguesounder wrote: ↑Sat Jan 30, 2021 10:24 pm Looking good. How much space do you need to raise that stringer to make it level with the others?
1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
That is a pretty good sized gap at the deepest point. I wonder what the brain trust would say about perhaps sistering a small section onto stringer to bring that one section up to height. Similar to where you butt joined the stringer sections together - but making the sistered / scabbed section the correct height? May be easier and more structurally sound than trying to epoxy a small piece that changes height over a short span? Make sense? Any other opinions?
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
boguesounder wrote: ↑Mon Feb 01, 2021 9:24 am That is a pretty good sized gap at the deepest point. I wonder what the brain trust would say about perhaps sistering a small section onto stringer to bring that one section up to height. Similar to where you butt joined the stringer sections together - but making the sistered / scabbed section the correct height? May be easier and more structurally sound than trying to epoxy a small piece that changes height over a short span? Make sense? Any other opinions?
I agree. I think scabbing on a piece of coosa to raise the height is the way I will go. I’m hoping to have the stringers capped this weekend and will move on to that next
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
Just take two boards and apply ship tape to them and clamp em and fill it up with epoxy putty, before or after glassing for that lil bit.
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
Fallguys idea is clever also.
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
I put down some filets and some 12 oz fiberglass tape at the stringer but joints and have them sanded. I did this to keep from having to mess with them when capping the stringers as that area gave me some trouble when tabbing to the hull. I will definitely go a different route on my next stringer project I believe. I’m learning a whole lot on this project as I go.
My next question is do I need to do anything with the top corners of the stringers before capping or will the 17 oz glass make that 90 ok? I know you always want rounded transitions but I didn’t want to round the tops too much and take away for the floor bonding surface. Wasn’t sure the best route or what normal practice is there
My next question is do I need to do anything with the top corners of the stringers before capping or will the 17 oz glass make that 90 ok? I know you always want rounded transitions but I didn’t want to round the tops too much and take away for the floor bonding surface. Wasn’t sure the best route or what normal practice is there
Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
Seems like I am doing exactly this way too much on my build. But it definitely works!fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Tue Feb 02, 2021 10:09 pm Just take two boards and apply ship tape to them and clamp em and fill it up with epoxy putty, before or after glassing for that lil bit.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
My instinct would be to bevel those edges at least, if not radius, if only to give you a fighting chance of getting the glass to lay down on either side. If it were me, I'd run a bench test on a sample piece and see how the experience went.Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 9:58 am My next question is do I need to do anything with the top corners of the stringers before capping or will the 17 oz glass make that 90 ok?
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
Completed Jacques Mertens FS14LS + 10%, Build Thread
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
That’s a good idea. I thought about a router or just hitting them with the sander a bit. I will play around with some scrap pieces I have and see which I think will work the bestVT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 10:21 amMy instinct would be to bevel those edges at least, if not radius, if only to give you a fighting chance of getting the glass to lay down on either side. If it were me, I'd run a bench test on a sample piece and see how the experience went.Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 9:58 am My next question is do I need to do anything with the top corners of the stringers before capping or will the 17 oz glass make that 90 ok?
Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild
I vote router with a radius bit. Maybe clamp some meat to the other side for it to ride on. Any opportunity to not sand should be seized upon when doing stitch and glue, IMO.Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 1:31 pmThat’s a good idea. I thought about a router or just hitting them with the sander a bit. I will play around with some scrap pieces I have and see which I think will work the bestVT_Jeff wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 10:21 amMy instinct would be to bevel those edges at least, if not radius, if only to give you a fighting chance of getting the glass to lay down on either side. If it were me, I'd run a bench test on a sample piece and see how the experience went.Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Thu Feb 11, 2021 9:58 am My next question is do I need to do anything with the top corners of the stringers before capping or will the 17 oz glass make that 90 ok?
Edit: just dawned on me that you're doing a rebuild and not SnG. My sentiment stands regardless.
There are only two seasons in Vermont: boating season, and boat-building season.
Completed Paul Butler 14' Clark Fork Drifter
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