1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
Fuzz
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

If you do not round over the tops of the stringers you will hate yourself. 1/4 inch round over for 17oz glass at least. After laying the glass you can build up the tops or add cleats to stick the deck down.

cape_fisherman
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by cape_fisherman »

Rounding over 90 degree edges should be a rule. Minimums are 1/8" roundover for 1700, and 1/4" roundover for 1708.

fallguy1000
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Yeah, you need radiuses. 1/4"

Then you cleat or sister and fill them back in for the sole glue surface.
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Mr Pamlico
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Mr Pamlico »

I will plan on the 1/4 inch round over and I was thinking of adding cleats for more bonding surface anyways. I’ll have to go pick up a compact router to hopefully be able to round the outside of the stringer closest to the hull side. Also being that the butt joints have given me issues I thought I would do my 3 layers over the buttjoints first then come back and finish the rest. Still undecided on that but I don’t want to be struggling with the butt joints and air pockets while trying to cap the whole stringer at once and racing time. Might be a little more work and sanding that way but I think I would end up with a better finished product

Fuzz
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

When you say butt joints closest to the hull are you talking about the stringer to hull joint?
Running glass over the hull, up the stringer, over and down and then out onto the hull and not have bubbles can be really tough. I have done it with matt, roving and poly but I would not try it with epoxy and 17oz. Good fillets at the hull to stringer joint will make your life much easier.

Mr Pamlico
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Mr Pamlico »

Fuzz wrote: Thu Feb 11, 2021 10:23 pm When you say butt joints closest to the hull are you talking about the stringer to hull joint?
Running glass over the hull, up the stringer, over and down and then out onto the hull and not have bubbles can be really tough. I have done it with matt, roving and poly but I would not try it with epoxy and 17oz. Good fillets at the hull to stringer joint will make your life much easier.
I was referring to my outside stringers that are close to the side of the boat. The big router I have now is too large to be able to round over the edge of the stringer closest to the side of the boat. Hopefully I can find a compact router to be able to take care of that. I was also referring to the butt joints where I joined my stringers together. I used thickened epoxy there to try and take care of the edges but that area has just given me some trouble. That’s why I was debating tackling them first with 3 layers vs capping the whole stringer at one time and running in to issues there. I think I’ve decided to start with one of the shorter outside stringers and see how it goes and decide on how to do the rest of them then. I have already tabbed the stringers to the hull. I am now capping the top with 3 layers.

Fuzz
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

Got you.
I would not go buy a new router just for the outside stringer. I think I would do a rough round over with a sander. It will be close enough for what you need.

fallguy1000
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

What Fuzz said x2.

Just use some 40 grit and a good sander and put a 3/16" flat spot on 45 degrees then rock the sander over it.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Mr Pamlico
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Mr Pamlico »

Fuzz wrote: Thu Feb 11, 2021 11:25 pm Got you.
I would not go buy a new router just for the outside stringer. I think I would do a rough round over with a sander. It will be close enough for what you need.
fallguy1000 wrote: Fri Feb 12, 2021 12:07 am What Fuzz said x2.

Just use some 40 grit and a good sander and put a 3/16" flat spot on 45 degrees then rock the sander over it.
I have taken all of y'alls advice to heart so far but I did not let you talk me out of buying a new tool lol :lol: The smaller trim router did work much better than the big router I had that requires 2 hands. I now have all of my stringers capped with 3 layers of 1700.

Image

Next I will tab my stringers to the transom, start cutting out my bulkheads, figure out my rigging tubes, fuel tank, bilge pumps and live well stuff. Im thinking of running a bilge pump on either side of the tunnel. I am going to tab the stringers to the transom 10,8,6,4. What should be my layup for the bulkhead tabbing and capping? I have plenty of 1700 scraps I plan to hopefully make use of while glassing the bulkheads and I also have some 6 inch 12 oz tape.

Fuzz
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

Needed or not there is no reason to waste a good chance to buy a new tool :D :lol: :lol:

Boat is looking good! I would say three layers of that 1700 should work just fine for tabbing in the bulkheads.

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