1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

[Fuzz]

I might have missed it but what are you going to use for decking? It is my understanding that 1.5 inch carboncore with two layers of 1700 each side will span 36 inches no problem.

[Mr Pamlico]

I might have missed it but what are you going to use for decking? It is my understanding that 1.5 inch carboncore with two layers of 1700 each side will span 36 inches no problem.

I am planning on using 3/4 coosa. I will take some tank measurements tonight when I finish cutting out my bulkheads

[fallguy1000]

I made an i beam from glassed both sides 12mm corecell ripped to 1" pieces. Glued and screwed them together with like 1-1.5" flat sections; so they are 2" high. Like a floor joist. Then filleted and taped a piece of 1708 about 2" wide on each side. I can stand on them 29" wide with very little deflection.

You might only need a one inch piece of glassed coosa tabbed to the tank compartment top edges to get enough with the coosa deck or it might not bother you with a bit of sag. I did not like it, so I put two i beams across the 29" spans. My fuel tank sits like 4" below the deck, so I had room.

[cape_fisherman]

I might have missed it but what are you going to use for decking? It is my understanding that 1.5 inch carboncore with two layers of 1700 each side will span 36 inches no problem.

That's about what I'd do.

I have seen a sportfisher salon floor...16'...unsupported over the engine room...with 3" nida/carboncore & a standard 2x 1700 both sides...unsupported 16'

[Mr Pamlico]

There is only 2 inches from the top of the tank to the top of the stringers. I am also cutting it close where the fill hose will hook up. I wanted to raise the stringers the minimal amount to be able to fit the tank but I hope I am not cutting it too close. Could I glass a few 3/4 strips across the underside of the floor to stiffen it there? Or if that would not be enough glass a bigger piece there to make it 1.5 inches thick across the tank? I also plan on putting a rectangular access plate where the fill, pickup and sending unit is.

[fallguy1000]

The best way would be to put say a one inch deep piece of 3/4" coosa glassed both sides with something like 1708 or 2x 1208

Then bond the sides of the one inch deep coosa to the stringers with say 2" wide tabbing.

Then bond the sole to those crossbeams.

The max span say about 20", so across the tank, I'd build two of them.

[Mr Pamlico]

The coosa across the the tank area didn't have as much flex as I expected but I do think the extra support is a good idea. I have all of my bulkheads tabbed in and I got all of my floor pieces except for the very front piece cut out. I wanted to make sure I had enough coosa for the floor and plan on using whats left over to add the strips to the top of the stringers. How deep should I make those pieces? 2 inches? I also have some of the 1.5 inch coosa leftover from the transom and I'm wondering if I need to add stiff knees to the transom or if I will be fine without. I would prefer to not have them in the way when walking behind the lean post but I want to make sure there is enough strength with having the engine on a 6 inch jackplate. For a reminder I used 10 layers of 1700, the 1.5 inch coosa and then 5 layers of 1700. I still have not finished the top of the transom so if I could add more strength with layers there vs the stiff knees I would rather do that.

[Fuzz]

I probably missed it but what is the plan for the transom? Splash well, bracket?

[Mr Pamlico]

I probably missed it but what is the plan for the transom? Splash well, bracket?

There will be a 2004 115 Suzuki 4 stroke on a 6 inch setback jack plate. I left the same cutout in the transom that was there originally with that engine.

[Mr Pamlico]

If I use the 1.5 inch coosa I have to add the stiffners to the transom, how do I go about adding those? Would it just be strips glassed/tabbed to the transom or would I tie them into the stringers? I think I’m going to add them for extra strength just not sure exactly on the design or exact science behind them