1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

[MSRiver]

Your dealing with some of the same problems i dealt with. If you can tell how much glass you took off say 1 layer id put at least one layer of 1708 back. If you have several of those bad spots go ahead and grind out till you find good glass then build up with 1708 patches overlapping then sand flat. Now here's a key note i found out, if you just lay epoxy down and put 1708 down itll look fine when you wet it out but as it cures small air bubbles will pop up. Just something about that old glass and how they laid it up and just had pin holes. So a remedy to fix that is make sure you cover every square inch with a ketchup thicken epoxy let that get sticky then lay down epoxy which will help wet out 1708. You can look at my thread of how i did it. Its the 1982 dolphin thread.

[Mr Pamlico]

Being that I already have the 1700 and that is what I have been working with I am going to use that. Still undecided on how many layers but I am thinking 2-3.





I was planning on laying it out like this on either side and overlapping in the center so the tunnel and keel would have extra glass. I feel the hull is thin and I would like to make sure that it is plenty thick. We get the occasional freeze and I would like to be able to get out and bust the ice to be able to hunt without worry. What I am unsure of is after I get the first side in how do I lay the rest of the glass out without being able to get inside the boat? I also thought about installing the stringers first and then adding glass but I am not sure the best way to go or if one is stronger than the other. The hull has not lost shape at all but I can feel it flex some when I walk in the front of the boat.

[Fuzz]

Lay out another piece of glass just like that one but for the other side. With 1700 you will not have the same problems wetting it out like 1708 does. You can then fold one side to the outside and wet the first piece out. Then fold the other piece back down. Work bow to stern. When you run out of room you should be able to reach over the stern to finish up. Hope that all makes sense.

[cape man]

Put the glass down before the stringers.

[BrianC]

You might also consider running it up the sides about 6" or so.

[MSRiver]

Glass hull before stringers, also BrianC might want to go up the sides a little or put some 12 oz tape along corners.
If you are doing both sides at once and multiple layers keep in mind your going to have to sand the whole bottom in between layers. I did one side at a time wet on wet with the overlap to save that sanding time. Once i got one side down i only sanded 8" or so over the center. That way you have plenty of area to work not to mention with my back i didn't need to make it any harder on myself than it was already. Rolling out the glass is the most time consuming, i started at 6pm and i wasn't through until almost 12 both nights. It would be highly advised that it is such a larger area i would roughly calculated how much epoxy you need make that in a batch then pour it out all over the glass to get it wet out as quit as possible, which 17 oz is pretty easy but believe me its gonna take alot longer than you think just rolling out the air pockets.

[fallguy1000]

Work wet on green. Let the glass tack up for about 8 hours. Verify no greasy feeling; lay the next one on.

For the number of layers needed. Use Gerr's numbers.

I can work the calc for you if you want. His numbers are plenty robust. Ice work is tricky. Keep a rubber hammer onboard at all times.

For the calc, I need to know length, beam, depth, planned top speed. Depth is basically deck to hull.

Also, if you perceive a now thin hull. It would be good to know the current thickness.

[fallguy1000]

The calc would be on the order of 19ft,7ft beam wl, 3 ft deep deck to hull

[Mr Pamlico]

Doing one side at a time is a good idea. I was wondering how to be able to work wet on wet after working my way to the back. And fallguy when you say work wet on green and to let the glass tack up with no greasy feeling is this to be able to get in the boat to lay out the entire hull at one time? Or will it still be too tacky to be able to get in the boat to work. I’m very unfamiliar with glass work as this project is the first time I have ever messed with it. I will get some measurements as soon as I can. Also what is the best way to measure the thickness of the hull?

[Mr Pamlico]

The boat is 19 ft long, the beam is 6ft 3 inches and the height is 2 ft 2 inches in the back of the boat. Before the max speed I reached was 39 mph. I’m assuming with the jack plate and loosing all the weight from the soaked transom, foam and stringers maybe mid 40s on the speed? Not 100% sure on that one