1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
Mr Pamlico
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Mr Pamlico »

I have only ever had to bust ice on the river to hunt a few times over the last 10 to 12 years so it isn’t a common occurrence but if it happens I know I’m going to want to be able to hunt

LilRichard
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by LilRichard »

Dang, I just read this entire post, you've been working hard. Sorry to see you opened up a can of worms, but best to find it now than later. Your work so far looks really good, especially given your self proclaimed lack of experience.

Keep your head up and make sure not to let this become a chore. I remember the rebuild blues, sometimes it feels like it will never end!

fallguy1000
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Mr Pamlico wrote: Fri Oct 09, 2020 8:07 pm The boat is 19 ft long, the beam is 6ft 3 inches and the height is 2 ft 2 inches in the back of the boat. Before the max speed I reached was 39 mph. I’m assuming with the jack plate and loosing all the weight from the soaked transom, foam and stringers maybe mid 40s on the speed? Not 100% sure on that one
I will run the Gerr numbers with coffee at 9am for you.

To measure the hull thickness; you generally remove a thru hull. But don't create a hull penetration of none exist.

Wet on green. Green epoxy is epoxy that has cured overnite and is tack free, but still within the primary bonding window of the epoxy. For Silvertip, this is 72 hours. You could sand any really rough spots and vacuum up the dirt as well. Generally, I only use a 24 hour window. And a hot sun will reduce that 72 hour window, but the sun will cause rapid gelation and a nightmare, so hope you are indoors.

I am not sure why you want to add all that much glass.Using 6x18, I get 108 sqft or 12 yards; a 17 oz glass adds at 34 ounces per yard or about 25 pounds with glass and resin.
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fallguy1000
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Fuzz wrote: Sun Oct 04, 2020 11:09 pm Lay out another piece of glass just like that one but for the other side. With 1700 you will not have the same problems wetting it out like 1708 does. You can then fold one side to the outside and wet the first piece out. Then fold the other piece back down. Work bow to stern. When you run out of room you should be able to reach over the stern to finish up. Hope that all makes sense.
1700 needs wetting underneath to work well

I just did my cabin roof.

The way I did it was to roll the glass onto itself. So, dryfit the two pieces with a 2" min overlap. Use a sharpie to draw reference lines like overlaps and length lines on the hull and glass every 3 feet or so. Biax will change length some, so it is good to know in 3 foot increments if yoh are long or short to the dry plan. Like Fuzz says, work bow to stern, so roll from the stern when dry.

Then after you mix your epoxy, you must prewet the area in front of you. It is done with a 3-9" paint roller. You can buy adhesive rollers from HD at 9" and cut them down to 3" or whatever you like. So, you are on your knees in the boat facing the bow. Wet about 18" back pretty heavy and lay the entire rolled up glass down. Use a consolidation or bubble buster roller and go over the whole area. Then pour some epoxy over the top and roll it out and continue that process gently moving the rolled up glass enough to access and wetout the substrate and then topside wetout the glass. You also want a squeegee as you may end up woth a little extra epoxy on the top now and then and the squeegee helps move excess better than the two rollers.

Using this method, each side should take about an hour if you are a semi-pro like me. Mix your epoxy in a big one gallon wide container or it will kick fast in too small a pail.

You may need to cut the glass down widthwise to allow enough room for you on knees on a second pass. I suppose you could try doing both rolls at the same time, bit that is sort of a professional grade effort and will be awful lot of moving of you and I wouldn't.

It looks like your glass dryfit is too wide to fit you in the other side. I recommend you cut the glass down to say 4" past the centerline...maybe 40"? 38" wide glass might have been ideal..oh well. Cut at say 40" and then weigh the glass. It will be about 6 yards or roughly 102 ounces. Epoxy is 9# per gallon. So you'd need say 102/16/9*128 or 90 ounces of resin at 100%. You are an amateur and will need more so, plan about 100 ounces of epoxy. You will be much slower than me and I would recommend using two pours of about 48 ounces each time. I don't know the epoxy or numbers, but a 2:1 epoxy would be 32 oz resin and 16 oz hardener for each batch.. the 48 ounce batch is a good guideline and won't kick too fast in a gallon bucket so long as you have slow hardener


Hope this helps. Sorry I didn't read the Friday posts. Always quote me if you want a faster reply. Or send a direct message.
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fallguy1000
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Also, do not attempt to roll up the sides. If you want to do the sides; use 1708 tapes or the 10" cutoff you need to make to get room to work in the boat. The sides are easy to do as a smaller piece, but as a full sized roll; they will tend to be trouble and would also require a thixo fillet--a bit of unneeded headache
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viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Fuzz
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

When using 1708 I always do some wetting from the bottom but with 1700 the loser weave has let me wet top down with no problems. This is based on laying a couple of rolls of it.

boguesounder
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Looks like you had a really clean base for that new glass. Did you put it in last weekend? How'd it go?

Mr Pamlico
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Mr Pamlico »

Got some glass down this afternoon and it was a bit of a shit show lol took a lot longer than expected and I ran in to a few troubles. First time laying that much glass out at once and I definitely learned a lot during the process. There’s some air bubbles I am going to have to go back and address but overall I think the end result was ok. I’m gonna do some sanding tomorrow and I’ll give a better update on everything when I finish.

Fuzz
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

If working by yourself laying large amounts of glass can be a pain for anyone. Lots of preplanning makes it a lot better as does experience. Sounds like you are getting some of that experience now.

boguesounder
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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Post by boguesounder »

Glad you got it done. It is easy to be overly critical of your own work - I bet you did a great job. Looking forward to seeing the pics.

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