1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

[Mr Pamlico]

This is where I am at now. I ended up just doing one layer on each side but I did leave them full width so the keel and tunnel would have two layers. I laid the first layer out totally and wet it out and then I started at the front and worked my way to the back with the second sheet.

The first mistake I made was that I was at the lower temperature range for my epoxy and it was too thick. I had trouble with the roller picking up the glass when I was trying to roll it out and I believe it would have wet out better if the epoxy was warmer/thinner. I was just thinking about having plenty of working time but I wasn't thinking about the epoxy temp. I should have done as one of you suggested earlier in this thread and set the epoxy out in the sun or wrapped in a heated blanket to make it flow better.

The second mistake was that I should have waited for the first piece of glass to get tacky or cure more before I laid started laying the second piece. When I started laying out the second piece and working my way to the back about halfway through I realized I needed to reposition it. So when I had to pull it back up and reposition it thats when it started causing issues with the first layer. The first layer laid out great with no air bubbles and if I wouldve let it start to cure more instead of wet on wet I believe I would have had much more success when I moved on to the second layer. I was running out of time in the day so I tried to just work straight through.

I have sanded out the air bubbles but still have to fill them in. There is one I believe would be best repaired by laying piece of glass in it and sanding back flush and the others are so small I am going to fill them with thickened epoxy.

[fallguy1000]

Didn't we talk about the need to reinforce those tunnel edges awhile ago? I think I might just add another couples piece around the tunnel say like 3" and 2" overlap each side of the angle and call it done. So 6" and 4" pieces. Then when you get to the other side of the tunnel repair, you can flat sand those cracks with 40 grit and lay in some glass and not worry about blowing through...

1708 would be even better, but you can use 1700 scraps as well.

[Mr Pamlico]

I will add those reinforcements in this weekend when I fix the air pocket spots. Next will be figuring out my tank placement as that will dictate my floor height and stringers. What is the best way to get the contour of the bottom of the boat for the the stringers? I tried to cut the stringers flush with the bottom so I would have a guide but they were so rotten they just fell apart. The back is flat but towards the front the hull drops down for the v and the boat has a sort of “belly” to it. I would like to put my tank all the way forward in that belly as it seems to fit there well. Not sure if there would be any cons to having the tank all the way forward. My plan now is it have the tank situation figured out this weekend and then I can run two boards across the boat at my estimated floor height to take some stringer measurements. Just figuring out the best way to follow the curve in the front of the boat is throwing me for a loop

[fallguy1000]

I will add those reinforcements in this weekend when I fix the air pocket spots. Next will be figuring out my tank placement as that will dictate my floor height and stringers. What is the best way to get the contour of the bottom of the boat for the the stringers? I tried to cut the stringers flush with the bottom so I would have a guide but they were so rotten they just fell apart. The back is flat but towards the front the hull drops down for the v and the boat has a sort of “belly” to it. I would like to put my tank all the way forward in that belly as it seems to fit there well. Not sure if there would be any cons to having the tank all the way forward. My plan now is it have the tank situation figured out this weekend and then I can run two boards across the boat at my estimated floor height to take some stringer measurements. Just figuring out the best way to follow the curve in the front of the boat is throwing me for a loop

Stringers are not supposed to be mounted to the hull. The space between the hull and stringer is filled with thickened resins or foam padding and thickened resin.

If you try to cut the stringer to fit, then you will end up with a hard point here or there where the stringer meets the bottom.

Make a cardboard template; shim the stringer up to level; fill under with resin. Be warned. The resin can get awful hot if too thick; limit is about 3/8". You would be best served to tack the stringer in when level in a few places and then fill it the rest of the way next day.

[MSRiver]

Looks good, i hate to say i told ya, but i told ya it'd take way longer than ya think. Its ok I did the same thing. I'm sure all your work is very acceptable and at that even better compared to what factories do. Moving forward to stringers, if im not mistaken and your around the florida area. I will highly suggest contacting BBC and ask about the composite foam stringers that you can buy on here. My boat had such a deadrise and shippping was through the roof it wasnt very viable for me to get them. I did however get a set for my gas tank to sit on. The easy of puttin them in is a breeze and as long as they work with your floor height they will save countless hours id say about 1-2 weeks of working time after your day job making wood stringers. Just an option. If not need to get a laser level, make sure the boat is level then set your height of where the floor needs to be take into account deck 3/4" deck height and start measuring every foot.

[Mr Pamlico]

I already have and plan to use 3/4 coosa for my stringers. Before I can start on stringer measurements I have to figure out my fuel tank placement. I would like to have my fuel tank all the way to the front of the boat bc it fits nice where the front of the boat drops down and would allow me to have the floor height I want. I also thought with the engine hanging on a 6 inch jack plate that could help. Would there be any disadvantages of the tank being all the way forward? Not sure if doing away with the center stringer up front there would be a big deal. Once I figure out placement I plan to glass a board in for the tank to sit on and install the neoprene the tank needs to sit on and then take my floor height measurements

[Mr Pamlico]

[fallguy1000]

Typically dynamic or changing weights are best centered which has less impact on trim.

It is not a requirement though.

[Fuzz]

Fallguy is correct on tank placement but like he says if that is what it takes to make it work then you have little choice. Either way it is nice being able to set the stringers around the tank size. I would move the tank as close to center as you can make work.

[Mr Pamlico]

Typically dynamic or changing weights are best centered which has less impact on trim.

It is not a requirement though.

That makes sense. I need to move the tank around and get my different floor height measurements and weigh out the pros and cons. I also need to make sure I can access the top of the fuel tank with my console installed which might leave me no choice but having it closer to the front.