1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

[Mr Pamlico]

I set my console and lean post in the boat so I could get my tank placement and I got the tank mounting pad set in. I then set my tank in on neoprene strips to get it at the correct height and ran a level across the top. I then used a laser level as MSRiver suggested to and the level across the tank to set my floor height. I then took my measurements for the two center stringers. They fit the bottom of the hull great but I did not take in to account the angle on my transom. I think I was concentrating on the laser level and the floor height so much it just didnt cross my mind. So no there is a gap from my stringers to the transom.







I know I need a notch at the bottom to allow water to drain but can I just cut a piece to fill in the top? I am also planning on using the 1.5 inch coosa left over from my transom to make transom braces that connect to these stringers. Could I glue and glass those braces to the stringer/hull bottom/transom and that be sufficient? I assume some of the transom strength comes from the stringers connecting to the transom so I just want to make sure I am good in that area. I think adding the transom braces connected to the stringers would be fine but I just wanted to get opinions and see what my best options were. I would prefer to make these stringers work as the coosa is expensive and I already have them cut out. At the bottom where I cut the angle on the board it is about 3/4" gap and at the very top it is 2 inches

[fallguy1000]

Personally, I would template and cut the transom into the coosa you have and slide it back and fill in the front. Then shim up a bit more? No sure the hull gap.

But you can also just piece it in and glue the coosa piece on with thickened resin real good as long as you are glassing it real good.

You do need load path, so the gap must be filled.

Things look pretty good. Don't sweat that little miss.

[fallguy1000]

Also, you don't want the coosa pressing the hull. It would press on the outboard edge and cause trouble on the hull bottom.

[Mr Pamlico]

I will go the route of filling it in and make sure I glass it good. I already have the 4 pieces cut out for these center stringers and they fit nice other than that. My plan after I get this hiccup fixed was to lay the stringer pieces upside down on the flat shop floor so they are sitting on a level surface. Join the front portion to the back of each stringer and then put a few 30 inch boards between them as that is the distance from inside to inside. Set it in the boat as an assembly, space it up of the hull bottom, make sure it is level, put my thickened epoxy under and then glass them in. Then use those stringers to set the height of the others

[Mr Pamlico]

I have the two center stringers put together and installed in the boat. I set my stringer height just over the fuel tank so I could keep my floor as low as possible. Now I am wondering if when the boat is sitting in the water if I am going to be able to get enough angle for proper fill. The fill pointing straight to the back of the boat does not help. I figured worst case scenario I could raise the front of the stringers and have a small step up. I still need to shim the stringers up 1/4" for the putty so I will do that and get some fuel hose in my hands to visualize it before making any decisions on that. Im going to wait to do any gluing or glassing until I have everything dry fit and figured out.







The fuel tank is just slid off the mounting pad a little because of the front board I have temporarily between the stringers. It looks like it could be just sitting on the hull bottom in the pictures but it is not

[fallguy1000]

Just turn the tank around. Then you can put a panel in the front to cover the fuel line And runnthe lines up. The vent line must vent overboard. Then the fill can be on the deck.

[fallguy1000]

Also, I would not go 1/4" lift. Too much filler material.

Do the least you can to be level and not hitting the bottom.

[Mr Pamlico]

I’ll do that. Hoping to have the other stringers cut out and fitted this week

[Mr Pamlico]

I also need to decide on the tabbing for the stringers. I was thinking after I get the stringers glued to the hull I would come back and put my filet along the bottom and then run some 6 inch 12 oz tape down that and let it cure. Then come back with 2 layers of 1700.

[fallguy1000]

A good tape plan for that boat is 3 layers of 1708 staggered. Something like 8/6/4 or 6/6/4.

You can also use offcuts for tapes if you have a lot.

Tabbing is all about thickness. Aim for 1/8"+.

All depends on planned horsepower. Under 150, you could skimp some. Up above that and you can fly off wave tops and trough slam a 19 footer quite a bit. So needs better bonding to avoid separation.