Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:43 pm**

I have read through many rebuilds on this site, mostly privateer and Sea Ox builds, and I have recently started on my first. I have no previous experience with fiberglass or boat construction. I have the boat flipped over and had to work my way through layers and layers of bottom paint. I was using an angle grinder with a sanding wheel and I was too aggressive on the first side I started on. I realized this after the dust cleared. I purchased a dual action sander and had much better luck getting down to the barrier coat on the other side. My question is how can I fix the deep spots I have caused? Do I need to sand all the way down to the fiberglass and get it level that way or is there a way to fill these spots and level them out? There is filler on the back of the boat where the tunnel was put in but I want to make sure when I’m done that it is done right. This hull is going to see a lot of abuse from fishing and especially duck hunting.

Posted: **Mon Feb 10, 2020 8:48 pm**

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=72783

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=72785

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=72784

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=72786

http://gallery.bateau2.com/displayimage.php?pid=72780

Posted: **Mon Feb 10, 2020 10:04 pm**

First welcome to our little group

I don't think you have hurt anything with the grinder. You do not need to take all the gelcoat off but you want it well sanded. What I write is based on the use of epoxy. Go over the whole bottom with some 40-60 grit until it is clean and sort of smooth. You can then mix up some epoxy with fillers and put it on with a trowel so its mostly smooth. Then sand and longboard for a fairing.
Post pictures as you go and ask questions. Lots of folks here will help and give good advice.
Fuzz

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 8:03 am**

Thanks for the welcome. The boat has no gel coat. It was just barrier coat and paint. So in some places where I went through the barrier coat I am at the fiberglass. And the rear of the boat had no barrier coat where the tunnel was put in by a previous owner. I’ll try and get some pics up when I get off work this afternoon. I was having trouble getting the pictures to show up in the thread last night

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 8:07 am**

Mr Pamlico, welcome to our builders forum!! You will receive excellent support and guidance from our members!! We look forward to watching your rebuild!!! Jeff

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 1:24 pm**

I went to your gallery and left clicked on the picture-copy image location- back to my post-paste
You need to click on the mountain looking icon and click in the middle of the quotes in your post.
Have you run this hull? I ask because I wonder if the PO built the tunnel correctly?

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 8:38 pm**

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 9:20 pm**

Thanks for that explanation Fuzz. As you can see I learned from my mistakes after that first side. I ran the boat for a little over a year. It ran bow up very bad with the raised transom and the fuel tank under the lean post. The boat was redone in 2005 but I do question their craftmanship. The second time I ran the boat and got into some rough water the console broke loose, it was not screwed down just glued, and threw me and it down inside the boat. I then put in a console from one of my great uncles old boat builds and hydraulic steering. A few weeks after that running back across the pamlico river the left side of the floor broke loose. I installed trim tabs from the same donor boat I got the console from and it ran 100 times better after that. I also have a jackplate to go on the boat once its time to hang the motor.

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 9:52 pm**

I also have this spot and one more where I went throught the barrier coat that have brown water coming out. What is the best solution for this? Also what filler is recommended to add to the epoxy for this type of filling and is there a specific ratio to mix?

I am guessing I would grind this spot down until I find no water I am just worried about how deep this spot could be and what this could lead too

Posted: **Tue Feb 11, 2020 11:25 pm**

Couple of things. First I am not a Naval Architect nor did I stay in a holiday Inn last night

To me it looks like that tunnel would cause problems. One the water will not flow smoothly through it and two a loss of lift area. I have no idea if you need a tunnel for where you run the boat and that makes it worth while or not but I do think it is the cause of the bow running high.
As for the water in the glass is it water or is it from a blister? I ask because if the hull was blistering that would explain the barrier coat. Not much other reason to remove the gelcoat and replace with a barrier coat. When you were sanding down the bottom did it have what looked like bubbles on it?
Fuzz

Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 7:41 am**

It did not have bubbles. Just where I got down to the glass at that spot was some water. It looks like it could be a pocket of water there but hard to say. I know this used to be a commercial boat and from the looks of it it has not had gel coat or not for a very long time. I went through 8 layers of bottom paint to get to the barrier coat. The original layer being the old red bottom paint popular on the older commercial boats. When they put the tunnel in they just painted over the whole boat again with a black coat of bottom paint with no barrier coat at the tunnel. I do utilize the tunnel and the boat ran good after the trim tabs were installed. I’m also hoping the installation of the jack plate will help as well. Although it will set more weight off the back of the boat my idea is I can have the motor down further but be able to raise it up in the tunnel as needed. I also plan on installing an in floor tank and will have trolling motor batteries upfront to help balance things out

Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 9:56 am**

Mr Pamlico - hey man. I enjoy your waters on occasion (assuming you are a Pamlico Sounder).

I'll throw my hat in the ring but be advised there are others on here that are far more experienced and knowledgeable than me. But I am familiar with Sea Ox's. The new 24' is a sweet ride. There is a thread somewhere on THT that discusses the difference in riding quality between the 19 and 20 with folks seeming to think the boats are vastly different in handling?

While I haven't' seen your boat, I think that white you are sanding off is gelcoat. Doesn't really matter for what you are doing as you are going to prep and paint over if it is gel or barrier. Obviously where the tunnel was put in there is no gel. I think I would mix up some thickened epoxy (with wood flour or other agent), fill your cuts and scrapes, sand fair, and paint with Interlux VC performance if it is going to be a trailered boat.

It is hard to see how deep you gouged with the grinder. Some of those spots may want to have some glass laid in the repair if bad. I agree that the dark spot is probably just a blister that had some water in it. If so, I would clean it out, fill with thickened epoxy, sand fair, paint.

I just did the same job over the last month on the same sized boat. I hope my input is helpful. Others may chime in and add to or revise my thinking.

Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 10:15 am**

I should add that there are several 2 part fairing compounds you can buy and use also. https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/prod ... 26+Fairing

This may be more cost effective for you if you already have the interior of the boat fixed up the way you want it. If you intend to do significant interior changes that will require epoxy - then it probably makes sense to make and mix thickened epoxy on the bottom.

Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 11:31 am**

About the tunnel, Fuzz is correct. Some production boats are poorly designed. You could fill it or live with it.
It may play a part in the bow running high, it depends on the speed. Just at planing speed, that tunnel creates drag, suction.

For the moisture in the glass, read about blisters. To fix that, let the boat dry, very dry. Fill holes, apply a barrier coat which is epoxy.

One very common reason for blisters is a bad setting on the chop gun. The poorly mixed resin will blister. That happens in factory production, never with our hand lay up method.

For the console, see our Console HowTo:
https://boatbuildercentral.com/support- ... lation.pdf
but keep in mind that you need a good foundation. Very wide backing plates or doubler maybe?

Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 8:42 pm**

As far as the tunnel goes I am going to leave it alone and run it. The boat ran fine to me especially after the trim tabs were installed. I have always wanted a tunnel boat for certain places I hunt and fish. This is a picture of how the boat ran motor trimmed all the way down, two people and 15 gallons of gas under the lean post. Probably 3/4 throttle

Not being able to get the front of the boat down really beat you in a chop. The trim tabs I salvaged off my uncles old boat really ended up being the perfect size and fixed all running issues.

Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 9:09 pm**

Boguesounder,I have looked through your build and you are doing some great work. I love the privateers and thats actually what I was looking for when I stumbled across this boat. Im hoping my next boat will be a 24 privateer Renegade. Thanks for the advice on the bottom of the boat. I am going to try and have the boat filled and faired this weekend and ready to paint next weekend. I am planning on using the VC on the bottom as the boat will be trailered and will not be in the water for more than a weekend at a time, some of this time will be on a lift, and possibly a week while on vacation in Ocracoke. Do I need to put down a barrier boat or anything when I get done fairing or will the VC being an epoxy take care of sealing where the tunnel was never covered?

It is the Pamlico river and sound that I frequent the most. I live in Greenville and my family has had a place where the Pamlico and Pungo rivers meet my whole life and I now have a camper set up to spend my weekends down there. As far as the 19 vs 20 sea ox goes I can see why the 20 would ride way better compared to my 19. My boat is very shallow and flat in the back and more rounded without a sharp v in the front. It is a very stable boat but it will pound you. What Ive always referred to as a commercial style hull. The 20 to me seems like a much "bigger" boat even only being a foot longer. It has a much sharper V at entry and towards the back of the boat.

Posted: **Wed Feb 12, 2020 9:37 pm**

Also Boguesounder how much VC did it take to paint your boat? I want to come up the sides just a little as well. I just want to make sure I order enough when I order

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 12:39 am**

The running picture looks nice. What motor do you have on it? And in that picture were the tabs mounted and being used?

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:02 am**

Buy some commercial grade fairing compound like Quikfair.

Homemade versions seem to pinhole more.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:47 am**

That picture is before the trim tabs were installed. The motor is a 2005 Suzuki 115.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 9:47 am**

Fallguy giving you some good advice on buy some commercial grade fairing compound.

I bought the two gallon kit of VC for my project. I have probably just less half of it left. I would think the 1/2 gallon kit would be enough for your needs. I didn't want to run out as after 24 hr you will need to sand for proper adhesion. I'd spray if you already have a setup for it.

I'm hesitant to give advice regarding the barrier coat. The product sheet is here: https://international-yachtpaint.com/s3 ... 1574119287. It doesn't state to use a primer prior to VC, but goes on state to use Interlux Watertite in between 1st and 2nd coat of VC if fairing is required. I did not use a "barrier coat".

I would give Interlux a shout on their tech line or shoot them an email for advice. I've found them to be very responsive. Keep us posted.

Thanks

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 10:15 am**

Bet that boat scoots with a 115. Fair amount of weight on the stern for that hull. I'm sure the tabs help.

Posted: **Thu Feb 13, 2020 7:43 pm**

It is a lot of weight back there and installing the jackplate definitely isn't going to help that situation. I'm hoping putting the tank under the floor and having the trolling motor batteries up front will help that situation. I am also going to raise the floor because as of right now it will not self bail.

It will scoot and the way it is propped it really pops right out of the water great. This is a big plus because when loaded with people,decoys, gear, layout boat etc I am not underpowered. There have been a few times when the wind has switched and we have been caught in rough water that having that throttle response and control when loaded have made me feel safer and always in control.

Posted: **Fri Feb 14, 2020 11:01 am**

I really like the way Interprotect 2000e goes on. Thin, low orange peel with a roller. They tell you 4-5 coats, but I did two and will add one more and then bottom paint.

Just applies so nice and easy.

The hardest thing about painting a boat is avoiding painting before fairing well. It is tricky because is hard to see wth you have, so we use carbon guide powder and then final sand.

Posted: **Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:31 pm**

I got some more sanding done this weekend and have the repairs to the bottom of the boat done. Next is to fair the hull before paint. Another question I have is about how much epoxy am I going to need for the rest of the project? It is going to be a total rebuild. I ran out this weekend repairing the bottom of the boat. I want to go on and order in bulk what I am going to need for the rest of the job. Also what is the difference between the Marinepoxy vs the silver tip? Is one stronger than the other? I see there is a big price difference. Like I stated before this boat is going to see a lot of hard use/abuse and I plan on keeping it for a very long time. I would rather it be over built or a little over kill than that will be good enough. Which epoxy do y’all prefer for these jobs?

Posted: **Sun Feb 16, 2020 8:56 pm**

I didn't realize you were redoing the interior as well. Cool, I look forward to watching.

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 12:29 am**

Silvertip is preferred when using foam core. It does not blush and works with all the other System3 products. It is a top of the line product. Marine epoxy will blush unless you are using slow hardner. The blush is easy to remove with a warm water scrubbing. If you want to use a system3 product over it you need to wait for a full cure. This depends on temps but something like 2-7 days will work. I have done this a lot and never had any problems. For non foam core uses I use Marine epoxy about 90% of the time and am well pleased with it.

Posted: **Mon Feb 17, 2020 9:48 am**

Mr Pamlico, give us a call at the shop and we can discuss your requirements and assist you in getting what you need!! We can also discuss our MarinEpoxy and SystemThree SilverTip products!!! Jeff

Posted: **Wed Mar 25, 2020 10:29 pm**

I haven’t had much time to work on the boat but with there finally being some nice weather this weekend I’m hoping to have the bottom of the boat finished. A few more things to do and I’ll be ready to paint. Now I’m just trying to decide whether to roll on the vc performance epoxy or spray. I do not have a spray gun but I could pick one up from harbor freight for the job if the results would be better than rolling it on. The boat is outside so I am concerned about the wind if I do spray.

Posted: **Thu Mar 26, 2020 9:49 am**

While I love the job a good sprayer can do, you'll have to pick a day when it's not windy or you'll be painting the neighborhood!

I've spent an afternoon getting tiny dots of paint off my boss' mother-in-law's car! Luckily for me, he was the one who did the spraying.

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 12:34 pm**

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 12:47 pm**

When I was finishing up sanding I noticed the holes at the points where the tunnel meets the transom. Also where it looks thin and is starting to crack where the tunnel runs across the transom. Being that this is my first time doing any type of fiberglass repair I am not sure the best way to go about fixing this before I flip the boat and start gutting the inside. I have some 3/4 oz chopped mat and fiberglass cloth, some tape and some scrap pieces of 1708. The 1708 seems too thick to work with in this area and I was planning on starting with the chopped mat. My concern is how close it is to the drain holes where those screws are broken off flush with the boat. Im guessing I dont need to lay any glass over those. I was planning on getting them out from the inside when Im taking out the rotten wood in the transom. Also I was planning on thickening up some epoxy and smoothing out that area in the middle to glass over. Any advice or suggestions for on the best next move and materials will be greatly appreciated.

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 3:11 pm**

I am going to make a guess about the tunnel from what I see. The tunnel opening was cut out. A piece of glass was made up and pressed down into the hull to give the tunnel shape and then glassed in. That would explain the fiberglass edges I see all around the tunnel opening. Does this seem likely to you?
After looking a little more maybe the tunnel was built over a mold outside of the hull and then dropped in?

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 3:18 pm**

Do you have any pictures of the tunnel from the inside of the hull.

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 8:43 pm**

I don’t have a picture from the inside. I haven’t gotten the floor out yet. It looks like it was a mold and put in. I was debating flipping the boat back over and getting the inside gutted to inspect it but I figured it would be easier to get some glass on it and repair the outside while its upside down.

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 9:21 pm**

I’m also not sure if I can use the materials I have or if I need to order some other glass that will be better suited for fixing this problem

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 9:28 pm**

No need to flip it yet. What I "think" is happening is you are seeing the edges of the tunnel mold where it was bonded in. I am not sure there is any problem there. Maybe just sand the area and fill the low spots. I think when you can get to it from the inside you will see where they glassed the mold in. Depending on how that glass work looks you might want to do something to it or maybe not. "We will see" as my wife would say.
For what you will be doing use epoxy. Epoxy does not work well with mat so do not try to use it. Cloth, 12oz biax and 17oz biax are your friends.

Posted: **Mon Apr 06, 2020 9:32 pm**

I would not even think of using 1708 on the outside. Places on the inside are fine if you already have it. The mat part of 1708 is ok as it is stitched on the biax and not held together with a binder that epoxy will not brake down. 1708 can be a real pain to wet out so for most things I would rather use 1700 biax or 12oz.

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 1:21 pm**

Thanks for the advice. As I said I’m super green to fiberglass work. I have tried to look at all the tutorials I can but haven’t found much about what type of glass to use where. My biggest concern is the holes on either side at the point of the tunnel. I believe this is where water was getting into the transom. Can I use just that fiberglass cloth to cover those holes or do I need to go on and buy some different kind of glass to patch those places?

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 3:45 pm**

Fixing those holes is no big deal. Use a dremel or something like it to clean up the inside of the holes and rough it up so the epoxy can bind to it better. Mix up some epoxy and a filler like wood flour or glass fibers. You could even tear up some of that mat real fine and make a mash. Make it about peanut butter stiff. Over fill the hole just a little. Use some packing tape to keep it in place and make the outside smooth. If you have slow hardner use it to keep the heat build up down a little.

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:52 pm**

That was my first thought but I wasn't sure if glassing over them was a better option. I do have slow hardener and the tape is a good idea. Here is a better picture of the crack.

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:23 pm**

Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:52 pm That was my first thought but I wasn't sure if glassing over them was a better option. I do have slow hardener and the tape is a good idea. Here is a better picture of the crack.

No idea what we are looking at here. Need a pic firther away.

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:44 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:23 pm
Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Tue Apr 07, 2020 8:52 pm That was my first thought but I wasn't sure if glassing over them was a better option. I do have slow hardener and the tape is a good idea. Here is a better picture of the crack.

No idea what we are looking at here. Need a pic firther away.

That is a closer picture of this side of the tunnel where that crack is running across from the hole

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 9:53 pm**

And a picture of the overall tunnel

The last time I was out on the boat is when I decided not to run it anymore because the transom was flexing so much. I am thinking that maybe that flexing is what caused that crack

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:37 pm**

You are gonna need to grind that all back out. You can't leave a crack like that go....it is a serious deficiency...and you don't want a hump in the tunnel like that by jist glassing over

It also looks wet around the hole (darker).

Wow. Hmmm. How to fix that crack is a really important part of this repair.

Do you have access or pictures of the inside?

You are really going to need to see the inside if possible.

If not possible to see the inside, the basic premise of this repair is to grind back at 12 to 1. So, you measure the thickness of the hull at the crack. Let's say it is 1/4", then you grind it back 12*1/4 or 3" each direction to open at the corner. If you don't have access to the inside; that is more complicated...because access to the inside can make this a better repair.

After you grind back all the cracked area 3" in each direction (feathered from 0 to the thickness of the hull 3" away, you need to build the corner back up with biaxial glass by stepping the repair pieces from longest to shorter, each step would be about 1/2" or so.

Anyhow, don't take any action based on my post other than talking about the inside or getting us pictures. It is a little complicated repair, but not too hard if you take the right steps.

Start with a picture or description of the inside and tell me the hull thickness at the hole. Dan

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:47 pm**

Delete

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:48 pm**

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 10:52 pm**

If you have access to the inside of the tunnel; it is the same repair, but you'll install a backer first with 1708 tapes; so a bit easier actually.

Posted: **Tue Apr 07, 2020 11:30 pm**

I think what we are looking at is a layer of putty that was used to bond the tunnel in. Most likely it was poly and did not bond real well and is not all that strong. Do you see this in other parts where the tunnel meets the hull? I do not see any glass fibers running across the hull and into the tunnel. That is one of the things leading me to the puddy.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 12:41 am**

I do not have access to the inside of the tunnel yet but I still have to gut the inside to repair the transom, floor and stringers. I was thinking now would be the time to do the repairs on the outside since the boat is upside down so I could paint before flipping back over and getting on the trailer. If the best way to go is to flip the boat back over and go on and gut the inside to gain access to this then that is what I will do. I believe the tunnel was glassed in. That whole square of open fiberglass you see is what I found under the bottom paint and that all looks like glass that was put down when the tunnel was installed because of the way it is faired to the hull on the bottom of the boat. I will try to get some better pictures of the tunnel in the morning. The only putty I see other than what I believe was used to fair is the black spot in the top center of the tunnel. I was planning on thickening up some epoxy to repair that area to make it smooth again. Not exactly sure why that is there. Im guessing it was used to keep the shape of the tunnel at the back there.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:39 am**

Well at this point I think I would grind the bad spots out some and see where you are at. I would not go crazy with the grinder until you have a better idea of what you are looking at.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 5:30 am**

You gotta change that. That area is where all the stress concentrates from the transom. If you hang 500 pounds off the transom and wobble it back and forth; that area is the pivot point for that load.

It was not built well enough.

The right way to repair it is to glass tape the inside with a set of 4-5 tapes. Longest first to avoid air. Something like 12", 10", 8", 6",4". You get a couple yards of 1708 and cut them out of it.

Once the tapes are on, you have to grind out the area like I said, minimum of 8:1, max of 12:1. Then you use 1708 to fill it back in stepping down. If you grind back 4" each direction for a 12:1 on a 0.333" hull thickness, your first tape is 8"; and each 1708 tape is about 0.050", so you do 6 tapes. 8,7,6,5,4,3. Again, longest first to avoid air in the repair. Glass gets strength from thickness and good work; not shingling or progressive bites. If the hull is 1/2" thick there; go 8:1 for your relief.

Might need to do the entire transom bottom like that. So hard for me to evaluate the story; that is on you.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 5:38 am**

You can try doing the repair on the outside without the inside being backed up, but it is harder. It would be easier to cutout anything back there for access and repair the inside upside down as the exterior repair is quite a bit harder and you have great access now.

If you need to do it the other way; you can use peelply or plastic and tape to make sure the exterior repair stays up to cure and doesn't fall off to gravity. But you are gonna be grinding upside down so you'll enjoy that bit.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 5:47 am**

Also, you will be very sad if you put a hump in the tunnel because it will create turbulence ahead of the engine. If you opt to not grind; then you would put a radius on the tunnel edge and 3-4 glass tapes like 12,10,8,6 and use db1700. This would raise the edge about 1/8" and you would need to fair the tunnel and transom back out for a clean exit to the engine. Also make sire to square the tunnel edge.

This method is what I would do if I had no inside access. You just need to hope or install the engine deep enough to make sure your cav plate isn't 1/8" too high then is all.

This method also gives you a warm fuzzy feeling that you won't two place crack if the hull is already kinda thin.

This is all epoxy work. No esters will gove you the strength you want here.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:28 am**

Are you planning to replace the transom? If so, I would wait until you have dug everything out on the inside and installed a new transom before dealing with the outside of the tunnel. But if you want to go at it now, I would grind/sand down the edges from the corners to the forward end of the tunnel, fill any gaps or cracks with epoxy mixed with wood flour, and lay down at least two layers of over lapping 12 oz biax along both sides. If you do it right and feather out the edges you should be able to get it very close to the current profile, and if it is smooth and uniform it shouldn't create much, if any turbulence even if you raise it by an 1/8 of an inch from the rest of the bottom. I would not mess with taping it to the bottom edge of the transom until you are sure the transom doesn't need replacement. Once you have her upright you can then beef up the glass and epoxy from the inside along the length of the tunnel.

You may need to do three flips and hold off on painting the bottom until the second one - i.e. tape the edges of the tunnel, flip, deal with the inside and transom, flip, tape the rear of the tunnel, bottom, and sides to the new/repaired transom, paint the bottom, flip, finish the insides.

If on the other hand the transom is solid, do all the taping now, go ahead and paint, and then flip her over and beef up the insides.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:00 am**

The transom is completely shot and I still have a full gut job to do on the inside. I am also going back with a hydraulic jack plate so I want the transom to be as strong as possible

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 11:04 am**

I kinda prefer the multi-flip plan...just so you know. You can really get an idea for stress cracking opening the inside.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 2:28 pm**

Hopefully I will get it flipped this weekend and start gutting the inside. The hard part will be getting enough guys over here at once to get it flipped and back on the trailer. Maybe I can come up with something with floor jacks and the engine hoist.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 8:38 pm**

Well with the engine hoist, ratchet straps, saw horse, some old tires and rims and a little redneck ingenuity the boat is flipped back over. I wish I took some more pictures because it was quite the show. The front is propped up so I should have it on the trailer and be gutting it this weekend.

Posted: **Wed Apr 08, 2020 9:01 pm**

Don't matter what a flip looks like as long as you get er done

I have done a couple of real red neck flips but the boat always survived

Posted: **Thu Apr 09, 2020 10:22 am**

Hey man. Sounds like you are getting it done. Not sure how far you are going with interior rebuild now that it is flipped (stringers, sole, etc). You mentioned putting it back on the trailer. If you are just working on the tunnel issue from inside then flipping back over to finish exterior no big deal. If you end up fully gutting the interior you should think about how you are going to block the boat up to keep its shape when you cut the stringers out if needed. Imagine you know that, but just thought I'd mention.

Posted: **Thu Apr 09, 2020 2:36 pm**

I am planning on replacing the stringers as well. I was planning on getting the boat back on the trailer and leaving the cap on until the new stringers are installed. Will this be enough support or do I need to do more to secure it? I was hoping to be able to leave it on the trailer so I could do all my cutting and grinding outside and back it in the garage when I’m done. If I need to I could block it up in the garage for the internal repairs

Posted: **Thu Apr 09, 2020 3:20 pm**

I think you said you were going to replace the transom also? If that is the case do the transom first. Cut the stringers back 12-18 inches so you have plenty of room to tab in the transom. By leaving the rest of the stringers and deck in place your hull "should" maintain its shape. Make sure to check and check again before glassing in the new transom. After the new transom is in you can check for movement as you remove the stringers.

Posted: **Thu Apr 09, 2020 11:24 pm**

Ok. That will be my plan then. Glad it got brought up because I was planning on gutting the whole boat on the trailer and then starting with the transom. I was hoping to cut the whole floor out to assess the damage and then cut the stringers out flush with hull to be able to use them to cut my new stringers. Also I don’t have all my supplies to start on the transom so that would give me the opportunity to get a lot more of the labor work done this weekend. But if that will compromise the shape of the hull then I will just do as suggested and start with only the transom.

Posted: **Thu Apr 09, 2020 11:26 pm**

Boats can misshapen easily. You really need to be cautious about removing lots of stuff. Even removing a transom can result in the hullsides flopping.

Posted: **Fri Apr 10, 2020 12:40 am**

If you are wanting to get work done while you wait for supplies I would block the hull to make sure it did not move. I know you want to keep it mobile and that creates a few problems. Can you make some form of cradle for the stern so if you move it when you it back into the work area you can block it back up and make sure the shape has not changed? If you are going to remove the old wood in the transom that will take a few days and give time for other supplies to arrive.

Posted: **Fri Apr 10, 2020 9:30 am**

I will play it safe and just cut out enough to do the transom to start with as suggested. No need to take a risk on causing bigger problems trying to rush it

Posted: **Sun Apr 12, 2020 11:48 am**

I am having a time getting this wood out of the transom. It is all soaking wet but they ran over 150 decking screws threw the back of the boat through 3 pieces of plywood and fiberglassed over it. The screw heads were also fiberglassed over on the back of the boat so I can’t screw them out.

Posted: **Sun Apr 12, 2020 11:55 am**

Also the tunnel looks like it was made as a big fiberglass panel which was screwed onto the boat and fiberglassed in

Posted: **Sun Apr 12, 2020 1:05 pm**

Time to make a decision and start cutting. Screws embedded in the boat = no bueno.

Posted: **Sun Apr 12, 2020 3:59 pm**

As much as I don’t want to do that, especially since this is my first rebuild, I think it might be my only option. I’ve got a lot of the wood out and have been able to pull some screws through but I cannot get the rest to break loose. I’ve still been trying to get the wood out with hopes I could pull the screws out like I have the others but not muck luck. If I keep going trying to get this wood out it’s gonna destroy the back of the boat anyways. I understood for the most part how to do the transom with the outside skin still attached but I’m not sure where to start if I do cut the back out, which it looks like I’m going to have too

Posted: **Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:41 pm**

Post some pictures of where you are at. This is not brain surgery it is just plain old hard work. Been there and done that more than once. If you do not have a multi tool you need one. Cut the inside skin close to the edges and then start peeling the inside glass off. You can set a saw to a shallow depth and cut things in smaller chunks. It will come out but it may be in small pieces. Just remember every piece that comes out is a step forward. This is one case where the worse shape the transom is in the easier it is.

Posted: **Sun Apr 12, 2020 4:45 pm**

I'd get a $50 dollar cheap 4" skilsaw and start criss cross cuts

Posted: **Mon Apr 13, 2020 7:48 am**

There is a picture to get an idea of the screws I am dealing with and the last picture is where I am at now. I do have the multitool and skill saw. If those stainless steel screws weren't ran through the back of the boat it would have all been out by now. I have been able to pull some threw and have cut some off to try and work around but the outside skin is very thin in some places so those spots have me worried.

Posted: **Mon Apr 13, 2020 8:42 am**

Keep on keepin on. She is in rough shape.

Posted: **Mon Apr 13, 2020 9:28 am**

I have never redone a transom, but have watched several here. To be frank, I think you are adding more work trying to save that skin than just going for it and cutting the whole thing out, especially with the issues you posted before you started working on the insides. David (Fuzz) is watching and commenting here, and he has personally done a few of those himself. I'd listen to him on this one.

By the way...I am always impressed with folks taking a classic hull and giving it a redo. I fished out of a 19 ft Sea Ox that was around the same age. It didn't have the tunnel, which I think was added later on your boat.

Have you considered losing the tunnel, or is it worth repairing it for your fishing/boating plans? You do know they cause a significant loss in planing efficiency...

Posted: **Mon Apr 13, 2020 9:32 am**

Forget the last part. I went back and read where you want the tunnel. Carry on!!

Posted: **Mon Apr 13, 2020 3:27 pm**

Save the outside skin and do not cut it out.

Leaving the transom skin in place will save you a ton of work no matter what it looks like. If those screws are through the skin they have to come out. Get a hole saw just large enough to go over the screw head and start cutting plugs with the screw inside. The transom will look like it was hit with a shotgun but that is no problem. Take it easy getting the wood out and do not tear up the transom skin. Set your saw blade shallow and kerf all over the wood. Take it out in what ever size it wants to. You will use every tool you own. This part just takes time. Each piece out is a gain no matter the size. You can tell when you are taking too big of a bite when the skin flexes and not the wood. The last transom I did was about the same size and it took two long days to get er done. Keep posting as you go, it really helps.

Posted: **Mon Apr 13, 2020 4:16 pm**

What Fuzz said 100%. Try to keep the skin. If you are a bit worried about deformation at the top; at a minimum measure and mark a few places..maximum is a 2x4 across the top screwed down (but in your way).

I am living vicariously laying in bed reading, so keep the pictures coming.

Posted: **Mon Apr 13, 2020 8:50 pm**

I’m gonna get back at it tomorrow after work and I’ll post some pictures of my progress. I believe I’m going to go back with coosa instead of wood here. I am able to get it at cost through someone I know at a boat plant here and worrying about rot will not be in the back of my mind. What type of fiberglass would y’all recommend I use for this project? I’m going to try and go on and order the fiberglass I need and enough board to do the transom so when I do get this all cleaned up there will be no down time waiting for supplies

Posted: **Mon Apr 13, 2020 10:29 pm**

I like to use lots of the new products, I am a huge fan of Nidacore for decks, but I know nothing about coosia. Please keep that in mind and if you can find someone who knows coosia and they feel different than me it might be best to listen to them.
Once you get all the wood out of the transom and all cleaned up I would lay a couple of layers of glass, 1708. 1700 biax or 12oz biax. I would do all of this work with 1700 biax. Yes using a mix of 1700 and 1800 would be a little stronger but we are not building an Americas cup racer that is stressed to 99% of failure and every oz counts. I would hope to never get close to 50%.
With coosia you may need to use a premium epoxy like System3 I do not know. If you are going to replace the stringers and deck you will need a bunch of material. I would order a full roll of 1700 and at least 15 gallons of epoxy to start with. You will need more than that but 15 is a good place to start. 5 pounds of wood flour or the same amount of cabosil. A couple rolls of 12-17oz 6 inch wide tape also. That will be a good place to start.

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 12:56 am**

And all those holes from getting the screws out will come in real handy for pulling the new core in tight

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 5:44 am**

db1700

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 12:48 pm**

I’ll work on starting to get some of that on the way. From what I’ve been told you use the coosa just like if you were going back with plywood. The wood in this transom was 1.5 inches thick but there wasn’t much fiberglass covering the wood. I’m not sure what they are typically for this boat but to be safe should I go back with two 3/4 pieces? Or is that overkill. I also have a jack plate that I am going to be installing when I hang the motor back on so I know that will cause some additional stress.

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 2:03 pm**

Power demands transom design.

What is the power plan max?

I used two layers of 3/4" 26# density core in my transom and it is very narrow at about 3' wide for 90hp engines. When I hang on it, nothing moves.

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 5:18 pm**

If the coosa matches plywood for strength 1.5 inches should be plenty. With the glass on both sides I am guessing up to 200hp would be fine. Lots of caveats to that like bracing, quality of work, materials and so on. You need to make sure you get good bonding at every phase. Lets get all that old wood out and go from there.

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 7:46 pm**

I will plan on that then. Just wanted to make sure how much I needed to order. Im going to try and get most supplies on the way this week and enough coosa to do the transom. I will have to order the rest in phases as paychecks come in lol I’m going back with the 115 Suzuki 4 stroke that was on the boat and the hydraulic jackplate has a 6 inch set back.

Posted: **Tue Apr 14, 2020 9:13 pm**

I know the comparison is not apples to apples but my transom is 4 layers of 1/4 aquaplas III with alternating layers of 12oz biax and 10oz plain weave total 120oz on both sides. The transom is also tabbed in with 6inch biaxial tape 3 layers offset on all seams. I have a 115hp yamaha, 6inch jackplate, 2 power poles hanging on the transom. The transom is rock solid. Jacques recommended using 5 layers of 1708 each side plus the tabbing.

Posted: **Wed Apr 15, 2020 5:51 pm**

I looked in to the aqualplass last night but unfortunately the freight to order it is too high to justify. I plan on ordering most of my supplies from the site here other than what would require freight. I have local access to coosa which has a 26lb density I believe and carbon-core fiber board which has a 28 lb density. I’m just waiting on hearing back with some pricing before I make my final decision. They both claim to be used as a replacement for anywhere plywood would be used structurally. I would prefer to lean towards over built just because the boat will see a lot of hard use, especially during duck season, and I tend to be rough on things. My end goal is a solid work horse I can count on for many years of service. I plan on jumping back in with two full days of work this weekend and having all the old wood out. I will update with some pictures then

Posted: **Wed Apr 15, 2020 6:20 pm**

For a 115 hp motor, I would build it 2 layers of 3/4" 26# or better core with 4 layers minimum each side db1700 and knees far enough apart for bolting (knees tabbed after transom with 3x6" 1708 tapes staggered one inch on the transom, bilge bottom and the adjoining bulkhead...

Overwrap the top with the 4" material, so you will have 8 layers of glass on the top.

Oops> I just remembered you are only gonna have access to the inside. 5 or 6 layers of db1700 or db1708 then, wrapped onto the hullsides and bilge bottom in staggers something like 12", 10",8",6"4",2". DO wrap the top of the transom to close the core, so radius the inside edge of the transom. Square off later with fairing if you want. I might also wrap over the top and onto the other side unless the other side is finished nice now.

Laminate the coosa panels together off the boat using pins. I prefer a 2:1 cabosil/epoxy mix and apply both sides with 1/16" vee trowel. It will take quite a bit, make sure to line it up correctly dryfit by drilling pin placements with some leave in pin like ss or aluminum. Apply pressure up to 5 psi (10" Hg if vac bagging). If you only have weight, balance it out with boards and load it up with whatever you got; you will have a hard time getting to 5 psi. Don't drive a car on it; it might move on you and not be flat....

Posted: **Thu Apr 16, 2020 10:29 pm**

Wow man, that is a lot of screws! You are earning your stripes on that transom demo.

For when you get to the stringer removal, you should get a multi-tool if you don't have one. Cheap is fine. It will allow you to cut flush and not damage the hull. Your old stringers will come out intact and make nice templates.

Those screws though! Man, people do crazy things to boats sometimes....

Posted: **Tue May 05, 2020 11:15 pm**

I have gotten all of the wood out and have a little more grinding to do to get to fresh glass on the bottom of the boat for tabbing. The back skin is in rough shape. There are some cracks and bad looking spots in the glass. I have a 2x6 across the back but I can not get the skin to stay flat. It’s too flimsy. I can push it flat but it pops back out. If I clamped the transom core in it would stay flat but I’m sure I need to do some repairs to the transom skin before glueing in the new transom. There are still also the cracks where the transom and tunnel meet that need to be repaired. I will try to get pictures up tomorrow but when I tried to put pictures up on my album here it said there was a server error. I should have my transom material, filler and fiberglass tape on Thursday.

Posted: **Wed May 06, 2020 12:17 am**

You may need to widen the spanner across the back.

Hard to tell; not there.

Posted: **Wed May 06, 2020 12:56 am**

Sounds like you need to clamp something across the outside of the transom to keep it straight. And then after doing the prep work I think I would plan on adding a few layers of glass. Maybe 3 with 1708 or 5 with 1700. Sounds like you are basically building a new outside skin inside the old one.
You are not the only one having problems posting pictures lately. Do not be afraid to ask for help if you need some as pictures are the key to good help.

Posted: **Thu May 07, 2020 9:20 am**

Glad you are making progress. Sorry you hit a bit of a roadblock. As noted, it sounds like having a brace across the outer transom would help you keep shape while you glass from the inside. Look forward to seeing your photos.

Posted: **Thu May 07, 2020 10:34 pm**

This is a picture of where I am at right now. I had to get it in the shop before the rain hit last weekend and got everything vacuumed up to see where I was. I am going to pull it back out in to the driveway this weekend to get some more grinding done on the bottom of the boat. It is somewhat level now but I am guessing I need to get the whole bottom of the boat down to the original glass? I am not sure what all the dark discoloration is under there.

Is that spot right there where I will need to get the whole bottom of the boat? You can also see the crack on that side of the tunnel/transom in that picture.

I know the next step is more sanding and then I need to fix the cracks on either side of the tunnel. There are also those bad spots you can see in the pictures where the transom meets the bottom of the boat

Posted: **Thu May 07, 2020 10:55 pm**

Where they raised the transom to make up for the tunnel is also in rough shape. It has cracked from the back of the boat flexing. I can pop it back in and pull the back of the boat flat against the 2x6 I had across the back but like I said it will not stay. I am wondering if where they raised the transom could be the reason for this issue. There is also a crack running down from there that I am not sure of the best way to repair

Posted: **Fri May 08, 2020 3:38 pm**

DAMN! If I had known that transom was that bad I would have told you to cut it all out. Water under the bridge now I guess. You need to get that transom skin flat. Try 2x4s across the stern and glue them in place. I have found hot glue holds a lot better than I thought. After that all you have is a glass mold back there. You will need to lay enough glass to build a skin. Something like 3/16-1/4 inch thick.
I hate to say this but I am thinking the best move is to cut that mess out and start over. I know that is not what we said before and you have a ton of work to get to this point but it might be both easier and better.

Posted: **Fri May 08, 2020 5:19 pm**

Ive been following along and id agree with Fuzz. Look at it this way if you lay a brand new transom your gonna have a lot less headache trying to finish the back to make it look good One! and you know its going to be 100% right!
I wish i had done that on mine cause I've had to go back and do some patching work since. I thought my back skin was flat use a straight edge on both sides and used a bunch of bolts to stick the wood to the glass to only later find out i had a few areas that the putty didn't fill and wasn't touching the glass.

Its a little more time consuming little more material but when you get done your not gonna have to look back at it and worry about it. On top of that its should be easy easy enough to put a little quick fair and the back be done! I'd reference how they did the aquasport.

Posted: **Fri May 08, 2020 10:30 pm**

I appreciate all the help and I know it’s hard to get a grasp of the project over the internet. I’ll try to get better with putting up pictures as I go. So I guess my next step is to cut the back out. I will try and take some measurements of my transom height where the motor will hang before the cut. Do I need some sort of brace across the back before I cut it out? Also once the back is gone how do I go about reforming it? Do I put the new transom board in and then glass it all in?

Posted: **Sat May 09, 2020 12:08 am**

First let me say sorry for you having to do so much work to get to this point

You need to put a couple braces across the hull to keep it from spreading out when you remove the transom skin. If I was doing it I would use a piece of melomine to put up against the hull for an outside mold. Build up skin thickness and tab that to the inside of the hull at the same time. Then install the core and then the inside skin. All this glass being carried out onto the hull will reinforce the tunnel as well.

Posted: **Sat May 09, 2020 9:28 am**

Pictures are definitely helpful. You'll be married to this boat forever! The aquasport transom that was mentioned would be a good reference. Page 1 and 2 on this link will help you visualize what I think Fuzz is recommending. Fuzz, please correct me if I am contradicting you.

https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11294

Thanks...

Posted: **Sat May 09, 2020 11:25 am**

I wish my jackplate had enough set back to go on and close off the transom. Now would be the time. I’m gonna try and get some work done on it this weekend.

Posted: **Sat May 09, 2020 3:20 pm**

boguesounder wrote: ↑Sat May 09, 2020 9:28 am Pictures are definitely helpful. You'll be married to this boat forever! The aquasport transom that was mentioned would be a good reference. Page 1 and 2 on this link will help you visualize what I think Fuzz is recommending. Fuzz, please correct me if I am contradicting you.

https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=11294

Thanks...

Thanks boguesounder that is exactly the thread I was thinking of but could not remember where it was. This cloof stuff sucks sometimes. Nice thing about lots of folks checking these threads is they help cover for each other.

Bobs Machine sells brackets with a lot of set back. Price does not seem too bad and I think Jeff can get them for you. If you think you want to go that way now is the time.

Posted: **Sat May 09, 2020 4:40 pm**

I've been watching this thread and didn't post as I've never redone a transom on an old boat (actually I did repair my OD 18 transom), but was going to say cut it out and build a new one. It will actually be less work, and in the end you'll have something solid. Fuzz has done one recently and that post on the aquasport is classic how to.

Posted: **Sat May 09, 2020 10:14 pm**

I plan on picking up a piece of melamine and some clamps tomorrow. I'll also order the mold release wax and PVA on monday. I did a little more grinding today and made a template of the back of the boat. I plan to cut the back out tomorrow. I saw in the aquasport rebuild where they mentioned securing the melamine with screws. How do I go about screwing that to the boat without interfering with where I am going to lay glass? I thought about screwing boards on the side of the boat flush with the transom and screwing the melamine to them. I couldnt tell from the pictures exactly how they did it once the clamps were removed.

Posted: **Sat May 09, 2020 11:11 pm**

I see no reason to cut a skin away that is telegraphing movement.

You generally want to go across the gunwhales, but hard to tell anything without pictures.

Go post pics in anything else.

Posted: **Sun May 10, 2020 4:20 am**

In the rebuild thread you can see how blocks were used to support the weight of the melamine at the bottom. And do like they did on the sides for clamping the top. Just make sure nothing will move when you climb into the boat.

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 11:28 pm**

I have made the cut and left a lip all the way around. There are still bad spots where the transom met the bottom of the boat that need repair. I left the lip on the bottom to be on the safe side and figured I could always take it off if needed. Also the back right corner of the boat is pulled in. That could be the reason I was not able to get the skin to pull flat on top of how thin it was. Maybe this was from how much flex the transom had. I took a measurement before the cut and will be making a brace to go across the back to fix that issue before the melamine is attached. I asked about the screws because I saw where they said the clamps were temporary until the board was secured with screws. I'm just not sure if my lip is thick enough to screw it without going all the way through and I wasn't sure how to be able to fiberglass down the side with the clamps in place. I will play with that some when I get there. I am more concerned with making sure to repair the fiberglass issues correctly first. Can I fill these spots, including the cracks at the tunnel, with epoxy? Also there are some small cracks as well but I wasnt sure how much to worry about those being new glass is going to be laid over them.

Also in the 4th and 5th pictures you can see where there is some separation/gaps in that skin. Can I inject epoxy there or am I better off to lose that bottom lip and start over? I was scared to cut it off thinking it would be easier going back together with the lip there

Posted: **Wed May 13, 2020 11:30 pm**

double post

Posted: **Thu May 14, 2020 12:16 am**

How thick is the lip?

How wide is the lip on the outside on the bottom?

How wide is the lip on the outside on the sides?

The answers will guide my advice.

Posted: **Thu May 14, 2020 12:40 am**

Either now or when you add the melemine make sure the transom has not changed shape.
I am thinking that lip will cause you lots more problems than it is worth. I would go ahead and get rid of it. Plus those bad spots where the hull meets the transom will be gone and no longer be any worry.

Posted: **Thu May 14, 2020 11:00 am**

Pretty sure you can leave the lip but your going to have to feather off the edge all the way around so you have a smooth transition from the hull to melemine board so you wont have much of the old glass left to be filling in anyways. Also before you lay the first layer of glass over the old glass make a thickened epoxy to coat over and fill in any imperfections. Let that get sticky then lay on glass that will help decrease on air bubbles. Ran into the same problem on mine laying new glass over that old roven glass.

Posted: **Thu May 14, 2020 6:33 pm**

Fuzz wrote: ↑Thu May 14, 2020 12:40 am Either now or when you add the melemine make sure the transom has not changed shape.
I am thinking that lip will cause you lots more problems than it is worth. I would go ahead and get rid of it. Plus those bad spots where the hull meets the transom will be gone and no longer be any worry.

Why get rid of it? He could grind it on and angle and glass over it.

Posted: **Thu May 14, 2020 6:45 pm**

I am not sure there is a right or wrong answer for the lip. That being said I see lots of bad spots that will be left and will need to be dealt with. Plus the grinding to taper the lip down. I am not sure what is gained by leaving the lip and would prefer to start from scratch. If there is a good reason to keep it I am all ears

Posted: **Fri May 15, 2020 12:44 pm**

top left thickness

top left width

bottom left width

bottom left thickness

the bottom thickness goes from a half inch on the outside down to around .3 in the middle and thickens back up some before the tunnel

bottom right lip

The width of the lip on the right is the same as the left.

I guess a benefit of the lip would be if I was able to temporary secure with screws. With this being the first time I have ever done anything at all with fiberglass work I would like to take the most user friendly route as long as I still end up with a a solid well bonded skin.

Posted: **Fri May 15, 2020 12:48 pm**

Another thing I will need to figure out once the board is attached to the back is how the top of the transom kicks up straight. The transom is angled back a bit but then straight at the top

Posted: **Fri May 15, 2020 3:34 pm**

I still say I would remove the lip but it is your boat and you get to make all the choices

Go ahead and get the melemine attached like is shown in the aquasport thread. Stop it where the transom angle changes and use a thin strip on top to follow the vertical part. After waxing the mold you can move on to glassing. Do as suggested to fill the lows and get a smooth surface to glass to.

Posted: **Fri May 15, 2020 4:33 pm**

I'm with Fuzz. All that lip does is hold it together which you can do with a frame and seriously complicate the new lay up of the transom.

Posted: **Fri May 15, 2020 11:35 pm**

A few more questions before I get started. How many layers of glass am I going to need for the outside skin and in what order do I need to extend them to the sides and bottom of the boat? I have a roll of DB 1700 but I could also try and get some 1708 if it would be better to have the mat for some thickness. I also have a pack of 8oz cloth and was wondering if it would be a good idea for that to be the first piece to lay down to get started. I ended up getting an inch and a half thick piece of coosa for my transom core and all the work is being done with west systems epoxy. I have five gallons of resin and was thinking that would be enough to get me through the transom and I will order some more when it’s time for the stringers and floor.

Posted: **Fri May 15, 2020 11:44 pm**

Also I have slow hardener and I actually had another gallon of slow hardener come in today that was supposed to be a gallon of fast hardener. The temp here is around 60 to 65 at night and up into the 70s during the day but it does stay cool in my garage. I know the slow cure says it’s for 60 degrees and up and that’s mighty close to the limit. Could I use the slow hardener and then once everything is done use a heater or shine some shop lights on it to bring up the temp/cure faster?

Posted: **Sat May 16, 2020 4:11 am**

Measure across the transom and add two foot for the tabbing. This will give you the yards for each piece of glass. I am guessing you are using 50 inch glass. You will need about 6 layers of 1708 or 10 layers of 1700 for the outside skin. That will give you about 1/4 skin thickness. You can go a little lighter for the inside skin. This will be about 40 lbs of glass. You will need the same weight of epoxy. This is just my best guess and others may feel different. I am in no way a naval engineer this is just what I would do. Some may think this is too much but the transom is one place I want plenty strong.

Posted: **Sat May 16, 2020 4:15 am**

You asked about slow hardner in 60f temps. I keep my shop 60f year around. Fast or medium will be good to go overnight. Slow is set but needs another 24 hours before sanding. Anything you can do to add 5-10 degrees and it will be good the next day.

Posted: **Sat May 16, 2020 11:37 am**

Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Fri May 15, 2020 11:44 pm Also I have slow hardener and I actually had another gallon of slow hardener come in today that was supposed to be a gallon of fast hardener. The temp here is around 60 to 65 at night and up into the 70s during the day but it does stay cool in my garage. I know the slow cure says it’s for 60 degrees and up and that’s mighty close to the limit. Could I use the slow hardener and then once everything is done use a heater or shine some shop lights on it to bring up the temp/cure faster?

Not really. Cure times will be okay for you. The main thing to avoid is allowing the epoxy to ne applied in 60F. It really takes excess epoxy to wetout glass if the epoxy gets cold. So, you would be wise to keep the epoxy indoors or somewhere about 70-80F.

For an example, if I open my shop doors and the shop cools down, my epoxy mixing area cools off and I have found a consistent need to use like 5-10% more for the same wetouts. Very annoying. It drives cost and weight and reorders.

Also, for a large wetout like a whole hull; doing it in comd temps is really much more difficult. Hot temps is worse, but cold requires more epoxy for the same wetout unless u are a squeegee master.

Posted: **Mon May 18, 2020 1:29 pm**

Good info above. I use slow in NC generally. It will be so hot here in another month you will have a hard time mixing and wetting out in large quantiites before it kicks. The ability to climate control (even a bit) your garage will be helpful.

Posted: **Mon May 18, 2020 9:26 pm**

Unfortunately I pulled a muscle in my shoulder Friday afternoon unloading a roll of fiberglass I picked up so I was unable to get anything done over the weekend. I am hoping to have the melamine attached this week so I can start laying glass Saturday. Should I start with a 3 inch overlap on the side and bottom of the boat and work my way out to 12? I’m hoping to get the skin laid and hopefully have the transom glued in over this long weekend coming up

Posted: **Mon May 18, 2020 9:43 pm**

I am planning on using the 1700 since I already have it and will probably just use that throughout the whole project. Other than the 12oz tape I ordered which should be here this week.

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2020 2:23 am**

For the order of laying tabs there is some debate. Longest first is done by most people. You get a lay up with less chance of resin pockets where one layer over laps the next. The problem is if something would cause the glass to release, some form of contamination, the whole thing is not holding.
If you do short to long each over lap has a chance of good bonding and might hang on. The problem is where you lap over there is a ridge that will be resin rich in most cases.
So the choice is yours, I will not tell you what way to go. Others may chime in and have good reasons one way or the other. I do think with epoxy you will be good either way.

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2020 8:43 am**

For 1700 i might do longest first. 1708 the mat on the back would help not have air bubbles when overlapping layers. I would put a layer of mat for the first regardless, it will use up resin but you will have a surface ready to sand to be finished when your done and not sanding into structural glass.

Posted: **Tue May 19, 2020 3:06 pm**

If you are using epoxy skip the mat. There is some mat that will work with epoxy but it is a speciality item. Most mat is held together with a binder that epoxy does not break down so you end up with a mess. Get things sanded up well and the 1700 will work just fine.

Posted: **Sat May 23, 2020 6:53 pm**

So I ran in to another issue when I went to bevel the lip and try to get some of the bad spots out. There were lots of air gaps from where glass had been laid on thick. So I have started taking all that glass out and there is a very thin original lip. The problem is that where the glass is thick on the bottom of the boat it is separated in some places along the back of the boat and I am not sure how far it runs towards the front of the boat. I have started working my way forward cutting the spots out but in the center it keeps on moving forward.

I can blow in that hole and it blows out of that gap towards the transom. I also believe I need to redrill where all those holes were filled in the boat, grind out the cracks and fill with thickened epoxy. It feels like a silicone was used to fill those holes and did not bond to the glass, which maybe is the cause of those cracks? I believe the tunnel was screwed to the boat and then the screws were removed and filled.

Should I just keep working back in those areas until the gap is gone? I know I have some more grinding to do but I do not want to go any deeper than necessary and am really more concerned with that separation right now

Posted: **Sat May 23, 2020 7:01 pm**

Another idea that popped in my head that I know probably isnt the proper repair but just for discussion. Since I am going to redrill those holes to get rid of the silicone would there be a way to block it off at the bottom with say tape or something and force thickened epoxy in the hole until it oozes out of the back? I know I will probably need to keep moving back until I find the end of the void, this was just one of those ideas that popped in my head as I was staring at it in the driveway scratching my head

Posted: **Sat May 23, 2020 10:01 pm**

Can you take some pictures from further away?

I have lost perspective on the repair, but I am rather nervous about the approach.

Silicone in between that has failed is a big no-no.

As for forcing thixo into a margin; it must vent, so the ideal is to leave the gap. But I don't quite understand it well enough to give good direction.

Posted: **Sat May 23, 2020 10:03 pm**

If that is liner that has delaminated from the transom; injecting it is not my favorite idea. I would be inclined to remove it.

Posted: **Sat May 23, 2020 10:06 pm**

Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Sat May 23, 2020 6:53 pm So I ran in to another issue when I went to bevel the lip and try to get some of the bad spots out. There were lots of air gaps from where glass had been laid on thick. So I have started taking all that glass out and there is a very thin original lip. The problem is that where the glass is thick on the bottom of the boat it is separated in some places along the back of the boat and I am not sure how far it runs towards the front of the boat. I have started working my way forward cutting the spots out but in the center it keeps on moving forward.

I can blow in that hole and it blows out of that gap towards the transom. I also believe I need to redrill where all those holes were filled in the boat, grind out the cracks and fill with thickened epoxy. It feels like a silicone was used to fill those holes and did not bond to the glass, which maybe is the cause of those cracks? I believe the tunnel was screwed to the boat and then the screws were removed and filled.

Should I just keep working back in those areas until the gap is gone? I know I have some more grinding to do but I do not want to go any deeper than necessary and am really more concerned with that separation right now

I believe the answer here is yes. All loose materials must he removed. If they injected silicone; it, too, must be removed.

I am just confused about the layers here. It appears as though a liner is delaminated from ? Something.

Posted: **Sat May 23, 2020 10:09 pm**

Don't inject that.

You won't be able to get the injection down into the bottom of the crack.

Grind it all out like a loose tooth. Once the loose tooth is gone; you can do reconstruction surgery. Sorry if I was a bit confused early. Just didn't understand how it delaminated.

Posted: **Sun May 24, 2020 8:39 am**

For one it looks like there was no thickened mixture used when laying the glass up the back of the transom so there was an air pocket there and that is what I started uncovering and the gap keeps going further towards the front of the boat between glass laid and the inner hull. I will keep working back until the gap is gone and looks like there is a good bond everywhere. Then I guess I will have to fill back in. I am going to drill out everywhere silicone was used to fill screw holes and fill in with thickened epoxy

Posted: **Sun May 24, 2020 8:41 am**

There seems to be a good bond towards the outside of the hull just a void in the middle between the tunnel and the side. I am going to get back on it today and also make sure there isnt an issue like this on the other side.

Posted: **Sun May 24, 2020 2:14 pm**

I know it sucks but you are doing the right thing by getting rid of all the spots with lousy glass work.

Posted: **Sun May 24, 2020 4:22 pm**

I had to go about an inch and a half up on the left side and some up the tunnel. The right side was not so bad. This also gave access to the damage at the back of the tunnel. Whatever they used to thicken up to try and do all this work never made a good bond and will pop right off with a screwdriver in chunks. All of that is out now. Is this area too big to fill with thickened epoxy? It is about 1.5 inches wide, 21 inches long and maybe 1/4 inch deep. I wasnt sure with the lip still there like it is now if I could put thickened epoxy in there pretty level. Let it cure, sand everything smooth and even and then move on to making my outside skin. If I go this route would there be any benefit to cutting up some glass fibers to mix in vs just using cabosil?

Posted: **Sun May 24, 2020 4:24 pm**

I also redrilled all the holes that were filled with silicone. I still have to grind out where there was some cracking around some of those holes

Posted: **Sun May 24, 2020 4:28 pm**

Also I can't thank yall enough for all the help and info. I sure would have been lost trying to tackle all of this without the help

Posted: **Sun May 24, 2020 9:57 pm**

The holes are not too big to fill. Put some tape on the outside to keep it from falling through. I think I would mix up a mash with glass fibers in it for this work. Cabosil is not going to give the strength you need for this job. If the spots are very deep you may need to mix smaller batches and put it in layers. When the first layer has gotten firm but not fully cured you can add the next layer. You do not want it too thick as it could become too hot while it sets. Epoxy is not as bad about this as poly is but I would still err on the conservative side. BBC sells milled fibreglass if you are going to do a lot of this kind of stuff. Mix it with the glass fibers and some cabosil for a nice paste.

Posted: **Sat May 30, 2020 8:03 pm**

I have gotten the spots filled and sanded out. I still have some of the holes to fill and some small imperfections I need to fix. After I get that done I am thinking about putting some tape across the back lip where I filled in the cracks and holes to add some strength. Also laying a piece of glass across the bottom of the boat across the tunnel where I fixed the cracks along the side of it. I figured that would add some strength and I could make sure to have those spots repaired properly before I start laying the glass for the outside skin.

Posted: **Sat May 30, 2020 8:14 pm**

That looks much better. It sounds like you have a good plan for moving forward.

Posted: **Wed Jun 03, 2020 9:22 am**

Looks like you have it nicely cleaned up and ready for new transom. Nice, itchy, work!

Posted: **Fri Jun 05, 2020 12:55 pm**

This weekends project will be attaching the melamine board and trying to get the back skin laid out. I have a few questions. How many layers of the mold release wax should I put on the board? I’ve seen mixed reviews. Some say with the melamine you only need one coat or you might have early release issues. The last thing I want is that board glued to the back of my boat lol. I’m also planning on starting to lay the glass 12 inches up the boat and work my way back in with 1 inch increments for 10 layers with the db1700

Posted: **Fri Jun 05, 2020 6:23 pm**

Also I have some 7 inch rollers, 4 inch rollers and 2 inch brushes. Would the 7 inch put down too much epoxy in this situation? I want to knock it out as fast as I can to be able to get all 10 layers done in one go. That little bit of glass I laid on the back lip and across the tunnel is the first fiberglass I have ever put down and I just used a brush. I’d like yalls opinion on the best tool for the job before I get started. I guess if I start small I can always move up if necessary

Posted: **Fri Jun 05, 2020 6:32 pm**

One more thing I just thought up tinkering in the shop. Would putting down some 8 oz cloth before starting with the db1700 give me a better finish on the outside or would that be a waste of time

Posted: **Mon Jun 15, 2020 10:06 pm**

I got the back skin laid and it came out to about 1/4 inch thick. I was unable to get the glass and tabbing all laid out in one piece. With the tunnel and the corners I just couldn't get it to lay out properly across the back, down the sides and bottom of the hull all at the same time. I cut the pieces out to fit the back of the boat and laid 10 layers of 1700. They overlapped the lip I left around the edge and fit right the the sides of the hull. I then ran some 6 inch tape to bond that to the hull sides and bottom. I plan on adding tabbing 12 inches up the sides and bottom of the hull. I was going to do that at the time of laying the skin but I might have to do some sanding first. The skin is thicker where the lip around the outside is so if I try to glue the coosa in now Im worried there would be too much of a gap in the middle. Im thinking I might have to sand around the outside to make the skin flat across the back, then tab the skin in 12 inches and then glue in the coosa.

Posted: **Tue Jun 16, 2020 3:15 am**

I am sure how flexible coosia is but you might need to level things a little. Put it in and clamp it to see. You will need to put a layer of puddy on it no matter what. The work you have done looks very good. Much better than it was

Posted: **Tue Jun 16, 2020 1:38 pm**

It seems pretty sturdy. Having the coosa glued in by the end of this upcoming weekend is my next goal. How much of a gap is typically left around the outside of the transom core and between the core and outside skin while glueing? I’m guessing I need to leave enough room to put in some thickened epoxy and then run some tape around the outside. And tighten the coosa up against the transom skin until the thickened epoxy starts to squeeze out and then let it set

Posted: **Tue Jun 16, 2020 2:48 pm**

If you do a good job cutting things to fit I would say 1/8-1/4. You need a little slop to make it easy to install when all gooped up. But too big of a gap means using more puddy and that drives up the cost for no gain.

Posted: **Tue Jun 16, 2020 10:31 pm**

I was sanding to level the outer edges and I hit a spot that opened up a little bit. I'm not sure if it was an area where I didnt use enough epoxy or a small air pocket or what. I kept trying to sand it out until I reached a smooth transition but I stopped to take some pictures before I went any further. Or maybe I was just too aggressive there and now I am over thinking it because I dont know what I am doing lol Is me not using enough epoxy the reasoning for the ridges? Or is that normal with the stitching that runs across the fiberglass. The skin feels solid and I don't visually see any more bad spots but now I'm questioning my work being I am learning this myself as I go.

Posted: **Tue Jun 16, 2020 11:01 pm**

You will get small ridges from the stitching, it is normal. Sand them off, just the sticking and not down into the glass. If the glass has any folds in it things will try to pop up after you quit. All in all I would say your glass work looks good. don't sweat the small stuff too much you are doing good.

Posted: **Wed Jun 17, 2020 10:14 pm**

I have cut the coosa and started fitting it. I still have some final adjustments to make before it is ready to be glued in. I'm also not sure if I need to add any tabbing to the skin or when I glue the core in and tab it will that bond everything together good enough. Right now the skin is laid over the lip right to the hull sides and bottom and then I ran some 6 inch 12 oz tape around it. I was thinking about tabbing it in 12 inches with 24 inch wide strips of 1700. Just not sure if that would be necessary or not

Posted: **Thu Jun 18, 2020 12:24 am**

!2 inch tabbing out onto the hull will be a good plenty, maybe over kill.
Do you need to put a seal coat on the coosa first? I have never used it. Also what is your plan for pulling the coosa in tight to the transom skin?

Posted: **Thu Jun 18, 2020 10:57 am**

Everything I have looked into tells me that I do not need a seal coat on the coosa. I am planning on using bolts and 2x6s to clamp the coosa to the skin. After that I will have to figure out how to handle the very top of the transom where it kicks up. I have it cut now where the top of my transom board is even with where that angle starts. I still have to cut down some of the back skin and level it but I would say that kick up is probably about an inch and a half. I could either try and cut some coosa to fit that top section or leave it. On my uncles Parker it looks like they just left that section there. I’m just not sure how well that would work for me if I have to run glass over the top

Posted: **Thu Jun 18, 2020 11:54 am**

Its real easy to sand through that 17oz compared to 1708. Looks real good. Coosa doesnt soak up nearly as much resin as wood does so theres no real reason to coat it other that help wetting out glass. Once you get the coosa fitted where you want it, time to start drilling holes through it! Get 1/2" bolts and predrill holes to cover 8" diameters. You can drill less holes but use a 2x4 to apply even pressure all the way across. So roughly 2-3 - 2x4. Make a thickend epoxy and smear it with a grooved trowel making 1/4"-1/2" epoxy grooves. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE YOUR 100% CONTACT AND EXCESS COMES OUT!!! Very important! Then just back it up to the glass and tighten down all the bolts. You want it tight but you dont want to squeeze out all the epoxy. Before you finish go ahead and just square off all extra epoxy for a quick sand before you throw your fillet in for inside glass work.

Posted: **Thu Jun 18, 2020 4:07 pm**

MSRiver wrote: ↑Thu Jun 18, 2020 11:54 am Its real easy to sand through that 17oz compared to 1708. Looks real good. Coosa doesnt soak up nearly as much resin as wood does so theres no real reason to coat it other that help wetting out glass. Once you get the coosa fitted where you want it, time to start drilling holes through it! Get 1/2" bolts and predrill holes to cover 8" diameters. You can drill less holes but use a 2x4 to apply even pressure all the way across. So roughly 2-3 - 2x4. Make a thickend epoxy and smear it with a grooved trowel making 1/4"-1/2" epoxy grooves. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE YOUR 100% CONTACT AND EXCESS COMES OUT!!! Very important! Then just back it up to the glass and tighten down all the bolts. You want it tight but you dont want to squeeze out all the epoxy. Before you finish go ahead and just square off all extra epoxy for a quick sand before you throw your fillet in for inside glass work.

Good info here

Posted: **Tue Jun 23, 2020 11:33 pm**

This is my final fitment and I feel like I am ready to glue it in. Does that look like enough even clamping pressure? I debated adding another bolt in the middle but Id rather not if I dont have too.

Also I need to figure what to do with the top of the transom where it kicks up at the very top

I think my best bet would be to cut a piece of coosa to fit but I am not sure how to measure the right angle to cut and get the perfect fit. I know on my uncles parker the top portion that kicks up is left just fiberglass. I feel like that would make it difficult to glass over the top which from what I have read would be stronger. I plan on cutting the back skin out to match the coosa once everything is glued in

Posted: **Wed Jun 24, 2020 1:11 am**

I think you have enough clamping to get a decent fit. Not sure about the upper transom it all depends on how you want to finish that part.

Posted: **Wed Jun 24, 2020 11:42 am**

My transom (wood) has a routed interior edge that allows the interior glass to take the curve and to meet the exterior glass. This is then cut / sanded flush prior to finishing and encapsulates the wood well. Not sure how Coosa would do with a router?

Looks like you are just about ready for glassing. I wonder if you should prep your tunnel area to accept additional glass while you are tabbing the transom in? Then you would have wet on wet to beef that tunnel up where it meets the original hull. You could knock it out all at once to avoid having to sand and prep again - pain. I always find it helpful to glass as much as possible when I'm at it - if it will eventually need it anyway.

Posted: **Fri Jun 26, 2020 11:34 pm**

I got lucky and found the perfect angle to fit the top of the transom. I set my saw to 15 degrees and cut a scrap piece and that was it. I still have to fit those pieces and I plan to glue them in at the same time as the transom board. I'm not for sure how the coosa will work with the router but I think it will be fine. We are gonna find out lol. When I do my tabbing to the hull do I cut one piece to wrap over the back of the transom and tie into the hull sides and bottom all at the same time? Or would I cut all my layers out of my transom stencil to cover the coosa and then wrap over the back and tab in to the hull sides and bottom. Is one any better than the other?

Posted: **Sat Jun 27, 2020 12:42 pm**

If you are able to do it one piece it would be better but it is not going to be easy. I might cut one piece of glass and dry fit to see how tough it will be. Also your glass might not be big enough to do it. If that is the case glass the transom and then do the tabbing.

Posted: **Mon Jun 29, 2020 3:49 pm**

You may get a variety of opinions on your question. Mine is just that...

I'm not totally clear how you plan to terminate the top of the transom. You definitely want the interior glass to meet the outer skin. I know you know that. I don't think you want to wrap the interior glass over to terminate on the outer skin if that is what you are asking. It will have trouble making that radius and you will have to fair the beejeeebees out of it to make it look good on the outer skin. I have seen many boats that have a portion of solid glass that rises about an inch above the point where the glasses (interior and exterior) join to encapsulate the core material. Is this what you are doing? I need to find a pic to share. If so, it seemed about right before you added the last little piece of coosa in. Hard to tell from the photo though.

Regarding tabbing, it seems often the glass is cut to match the transom template then the tabbing is accomplished with fiberglass tape. Tape comes in a variety of widths and sizing. This would be vs. trying to get one piece to cover everything. I think the chine turns would present some difficulty for you if you try to do that and the glass will need some cuts made to help it overlap and lay smoothly. I'll let others offer their advice.

Getting hot round here! When you do this, be ready to do it. Have everything cut, done and ready to roll. Your epoxy is going to want to kick quick. An extra set of hands may be nice to have pushing that glass roller. I say that but rarely get the help I need. Good luck and keep us posted!

Posted: **Mon Jun 29, 2020 4:08 pm**

This is how I was describing finishing off the interior to exterior glass. Not my rig. Just a google pic. Just turn yer head to the side to see

Posted: **Mon Jun 29, 2020 4:11 pm**

I went back and edited my last post. I meant to say laying the glass and tabbing in one piece was NOT going to be easy but I left out the NOT..................sorry about that.

Posted: **Thu Jul 09, 2020 8:18 pm**

boguesounder wrote: ↑Mon Jun 29, 2020 4:08 pm

This is how I was describing finishing off the interior to exterior glass. Not my rig. Just a google pic. Just turn yer head to the side to see

I am trying to decide whether to finish like this or fill in the top piece with coosa. I don’t have a preference for looks just whichever would make glassing easier. When I do my tabbing I do need to wrap over the top and onto the outside of the back skin correct? If so I believe filling in the top would be easier than trying to make those multiple bends. I could just finish like the picture and finish on the back fiberglass skin straight up without wrapping all the way over I just wasn’t sure if that would be more likely to separate in the long run with those plies being exposed. I was planning on wrapping over the top to encapsulate everything

Posted: **Thu Jul 09, 2020 9:35 pm**

If it were me I would take it to the top. Round it over and then carry the glass out over the outside. Hot glue a 1x1 2-3 inches down on the outside to give an even place to end the glass.

Posted: **Thu Jul 16, 2020 11:57 am**

Late reply from me, but I'll defer to Fuzz's expertise. I always have trouble with glass on tight bends...

What did you end up doing?

Posted: **Sun Jul 26, 2020 7:18 pm**

I ended up finishing the top of the transom with coosa and rounding the edges with a router

Yesterday I put some filets down around the edges and ran some 6 inch tape around the coosa. I sanded everything today and started trying to fit my inside skin pieces. My fiberglass sheets are big enough to do my skin and tabbing in one piece but I am having trouble getting it to all lay out. The tunnel is what is really causing the trouble. I have to figure that out and then figure out how to cut it to be able to use the same piece to roll over the top of the transom. The motor cut out is what is getting me there. I was planning on doing 5 layers of 1700 with 12, 10, 8, 6, 4 tabbing. Unless that is a waste of materials and way overkill. If I cant get the glass to roll over the top on the same piece I thought about laying all my inside pieces and then coming back separately with a piece to roll over the top. I plan on getting back out there tomorrow after work to figure out my inside layup

Posted: **Mon Jul 27, 2020 1:22 am**

What you have done so far looks really good.
Unless you are real good at layout I think I would run my glass out on the sides and across the transom. You might try to let it run out on the bottom at the same time except for the tunnel area. I would tab the tunnel and transom cap in separately. I think if you try to do it all at once there is too much chance for things to go wrong. 5 layers of 1700 will be 1/8 inch thick and with staggered overlays fairing that out will not be to hard.

Posted: **Mon Jul 27, 2020 1:45 am**

You will have to cut some darts in the glass where it is shorter on the verticals. Vary the dart locations a bit and sharpie mark them for folds or references to remember of needed.

Looks great. I like the overlap plan, too.

Posted: **Mon Jul 27, 2020 1:57 am**

Here is a basic way to do the first darts.

Put the fabric up onto the top edge and cut a mirror image dart line of the angle below.

Dart the bottom at the tunnel bottom and middle.

I will upload your transom to my build blog here.

Click the link below and look for the pic. I can't upload pics here.

Posted: **Tue Jul 28, 2020 5:13 pm**

Hey Pamlico,
That looks great! Congrats on a big step. I figured the tunnel would be challenging to tab in. Let us know how the layout goes for it.

Posted: **Tue Jul 28, 2020 10:33 pm**

I am hoping to have it figured out and all done this weekend. I’m going to try and make the cuts suggested to see if I can get it done in one sheet and if I’m not confident with that I plan on capping off the top separate. If I do the top separate how many layers of 1700 will I need up there?

Posted: **Thu Jul 30, 2020 12:32 am**

Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Tue Jul 28, 2020 10:33 pm I am hoping to have it figured out and all done this weekend. I’m going to try and make the cuts suggested to see if I can get it done in one sheet and if I’m not confident with that I plan on capping off the top separate. If I do the top separate how many layers of 1700 will I need up there?

I wrapped 8 layers over the top of mine.... four from each side stepped at 2" or so, 8,6,4,2 onto the opposite side...

Depends on power plan.

Posted: **Thu Jul 30, 2020 7:45 am**

I’m going to have a 2005 115 Suzuki on a 6 inch jack plate. 10 layers of 1700 are on the outside skin, a 1.5 inch pieces of coosa and then 5 more layers. I wasn’t sure if capping off the top was just to encapsulate the transom core or if it would need to be layered for strength as well. If I can do it all in one go I was going to wrap the 5 layers over and stagger them. If I do it separate I wasn’t sure if I would need that many. I had also thought about using the leftover coosa from the transom to run stiff knees from my stringers to the transom. I have no other use in the boat for coosa that thick and I figured it could only make it stronger

Posted: **Thu Jul 30, 2020 3:01 pm**

Capping the transom with extra glass will make a sort of beam there making things stronger. But I am not sure it is needed in this case. If you are thinking of installing knee braces to the transom I like it. The knee braces will take a huge load and I believe will do much more good than extra glass on the cap will.

Posted: **Thu Jul 30, 2020 11:23 pm**

This is my first layer cut out. I couldnt get it to roll over the back all at once so I decided to lay it out like this and then close in the top. I am not sure the best way to handle the tunnel.

If I leave it like in the picture above there is an overlap from the glass on the tunnel laying over the glass on the bottom of the hull. I planned on cutting it along the sharpie line along the tunnel so it will fit flush but that would leave the 2 pieces of glass ending right where the hull bottom meets the tunnel. Im thinking of laying it out where it would be flush with no overlaps and then I could come back and strengthen the tunnel. Just not sure the best way to do that and fill in the middle

Posted: **Thu Jul 30, 2020 11:26 pm**

Also before I finished the transom I repaired the cracks along the tunnel with thickened epoxy and ran a piece of 1700 across tunnel from hull side to hull side

Posted: **Fri Jul 31, 2020 2:48 pm**

You can cut a piece to fill that gap. And then do like you said and lay a little more glass over the tunnel and out on to the hull.

Posted: **Fri Jul 31, 2020 10:43 pm**

Looks fine; keep the overlaps; add some more glass.

Posted: **Sun Aug 02, 2020 11:02 pm**

I got the inside of my transom glassed yesterday morning. The tabbing didn't come out exactly right but its in there. I still need to do some sanding and cap the top. I took the floor out this afternoon. The stringers are in terrible shape. That should make getting them out easier. The fiberglass is peeling off the stringers in places and they are cracked up. There were 2x4s screwed and bolted to the stringers. The floor was laid on top of the old floor they left around the outside. Its totally rotten too and is going to have to come out. There were also a whole lot more screws

Now I just need to figure out my stringer height and gas tank so I can get the supplies on the way. I am planning on putting the tank under the floor and getting rid of the above deck tank under the lean post. I want to stay all composite so I am planning on using coosa for the stringers as well, just not sure on the thickness.

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 2:09 am**

Seems like who ever did the "bubba" rebuild got a heck of a buy on screws

Not surprised the stringers are rotten. The good news is it sounds like they are bad enough to be easy to remove.
Need to make sure the hull is supported well before removing the stringers. You do not want to give it a chance to change shape.
Never used coosia so I am not much help with that. Are you planning on keeping the deck at the same height or raising it?

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 10:16 am**

Screws in a boat. Ought to be a law.

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:29 pm**

I do plan on raising the deck. Not exactly sure how much yet. The boat would not self bail before and I know the jack plate will not help that. I’m hoping with the tank under the floor and maybe moving the batteries forward I will be able to make up for that. Before all weight was in the back of the boat. I need to take some measurements and see what size tank I can fit and that might help me determine my floor height as well. Trying to do some research to see how thick I need to go with the coosa for my stringers

Posted: **Mon Aug 03, 2020 1:45 pm**

Not sure the cost of coosia but if it were me I would install 4 stringers 3/4 inch wide rather than two at 1.5inch. The height will keep them from flexing up and down. Bulkheads will keep them from flexing sideways.

Posted: **Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:05 pm**

I took my center stringer out tonight to start taking measurements to see what size fuel tank I can fit. The tank I have decided on is a 39 gallon Moeller 032540. It is 28 inches wide and 52 inches long. My stringers now are 30 inches apart inside to inside. My question is will removing that much of the center stringer cause structural issues? Or can I make up for that in other areas. Also if I put those stringers back in the same place and have one inch on each side will that leave me enough room for mounting? I also assume I am going to need to build some sort of cradle for the tank to sit on. I am not 100% sure on exactly how to mount the tank without it here in my hands.

Also it looks like the rear of the center stringer has been replaced and the front was still original. The rear part of the keel has been filled in and the front part of the stringer was still sitting down recessed in the keel. The stringer was split by a bulkhead. You can also see how much glass was added to the rear of the boat compared to the front.

Posted: **Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:20 pm**

I am having trouble finding that particular tank in stock but hopefully one will turn up. I want to be able to fit the biggest tank I can.

Posted: **Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:25 pm**

Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:05 pm I took my center stringer out tonight to start taking measurements to see what size fuel tank I can fit. The tank I have decided on is a 39 gallon Moeller 032540. It is 28 inches wide and 52 inches long. My stringers now are 30 inches apart inside to inside. My question is will removing that much of the center stringer cause structural issues? Or can I make up for that in other areas. Also if I put those stringers back in the same place and have one inch on each side will that leave me enough room for mounting? I also assume I am going to need to build some sort of cradle for the tank to sit on. I am not 100% sure on exactly how to mount the tank without it here in my hands.

Also it looks like the rear of the center stringer has been replaced and the front was still original. The rear part of the keel has been filled in and the front part of the stringer was still sitting down recessed in the keel. The stringer was split by a bulkhead. You can also see how much glass was added to the rear of the boat compared to the front.

I have a good aluminum belly tank about 35 gallons. Pay shipping and it is yours.

Posted: **Thu Aug 06, 2020 8:13 pm**

Looking good! Depending on how much space the tank takes up, I may consider reinstalling the keel stringer where possible and splitting with a bulkhead around the new tank where they meet. That may not make sense based on the length of tank relative to the keel length, but I think having something there would be a good idea structurally. Others may have a clearer sense of importance.

Posted: **Thu Aug 06, 2020 11:05 pm**

I do think that will be my plan. I plan on having the tank positioned forward in front of the console and I can put a stringer in front and behind of the tank bulkheads. I am leaning on the side of over built because I know this boat has a rough life ahead. Between duck hunting and running the sound looking for tarpon and drum she definitely has her work cut out for her. I tend to be hard on stuff.

Posted: **Thu Aug 06, 2020 11:09 pm**

fallguy1000 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:25 pm
Mr Pamlico wrote: ↑Wed Aug 05, 2020 10:05 pm I took my center stringer out tonight to start taking measurements to see what size fuel tank I can fit. The tank I have decided on is a 39 gallon Moeller 032540. It is 28 inches wide and 52 inches long. My stringers now are 30 inches apart inside to inside. My question is will removing that much of the center stringer cause structural issues? Or can I make up for that in other areas. Also if I put those stringers back in the same place and have one inch on each side will that leave me enough room for mounting? I also assume I am going to need to build some sort of cradle for the tank to sit on. I am not 100% sure on exactly how to mount the tank without it here in my hands.

Also it looks like the rear of the center stringer has been replaced and the front was still original. The rear part of the keel has been filled in and the front part of the stringer was still sitting down recessed in the keel. The stringer was split by a bulkhead. You can also see how much glass was added to the rear of the boat compared to the front.

I have a good aluminum belly tank about 35 gallons. Pay shipping and it is yours.

Thanks a lot for the offer. Do you happen to know the height of the tank? This boat is pretty shallow so I am limited by stringer height

Posted: **Fri Aug 07, 2020 12:00 am**

Try to get it measured tomorrow.

Posted: **Wed Aug 26, 2020 12:51 pm**

Hi Pamlico,
Any updates? Get your tank sorted?

Posted: **Thu Aug 27, 2020 10:13 pm**

Pamlico,

Marine liquidators located in Fort Pierce Florida has that exact tank in stock along with about 500 others.... they will also ship. Great people give them your measurements and they will find it.

I found a impossible tank there, 28 gallons nearly flat...

Posted: **Sat Sep 12, 2020 10:23 pm**

Been a while since an update. I slacked off a little because I thought my fuel tank was going to be 4-6 weeks out, and the shrimp showed up thick in the sound so I’ve been on cast net duty. I am going to set my floor height once I figure out how I am going to set up the tank. I ended up getting my tank for 200 bucks shipped and have it already. My uncle was able to pull some strings and get it for me at cost. I have been fighting more bad work from the previous rebuild. They laid a LOT of woven glass on the bottom of the boat and none of it was bonded well. So I have been using a flat bar and a hammer/ripping it up to get a lot of that out. Also where they had filled in the keel did not bond well so I had to chip all of the thickened resin out with a screw driver. I started grinding today and hope to get a bright and early start in the morning. I do plan to fill the keel back in being that the rear part is gone from where the tunnel was put in and my tank will be sitting over a good portion of the rest of it. What is the best way to fill it in? I was thinking of thickening epoxy with milled fibers and 1/4 inch strand and doing it in layers so it will not get too hot

Posted: **Sun Sep 13, 2020 12:13 am**

The only downside of doing what you propose is cost? I am not sure how big of an area you need to fill but a mix of milled glass and fibres will make a tough, ridged keel. After laying about an inch of the mix in the keel you might even use some form of cheaper filler like wood flour if the cost is an issue. Be interesting to see what others think.

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1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

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Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild

Re: 1979 19 ft Sea Ox rebuild