91 chawk 222 rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
Stinkbait
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91 chawk 222 rebuild

Post by Stinkbait »

Hello All. Just wanted to introduce myself, I've been following this forum for a couple years now with thoughts of one day restoring a vessel of my own. I've read , searched , read some more , and finally decided now is the time. I found a deal on a 91 chawk 222 with the cabin molded cap version(not bolted on)and have slowly began de constructing. It's exactly what I was expecting for the price, and from I've seen on the site I've got a ton of work ahead of me. I just hope the outcome is atleast somewhat near what ive seen done here. The transom , deck, and so far atleast the back half of 2 inner stringers will def need replacing. My plan is to start w the transom . , and just take it one step at a time(that's how my brain works, not much of a multitasker). I got the idea of removing ,grinding and sanding down to clean glass. I'm thinking of throwing down chopped mat, 3/4 ply, 1708, 3/4 ply, then finish off w 2 more layers of 1708. I will build back the 2 knees seen in pic as well. Does that sound about right? Which epoxy and hardener should be used? Was thinking of marine epoxy w slow hardener(I'm in a mid atlantic climate and winter is vastly approaching so not sure how far I'll get til spring). Also would wood flour be ok for all my filets needed? Thanks in advance , any response will be greatly appreciated? I'm gonna need all the help I can get?. Oh yeah one more question ,how do I add pics to my posts ? Ha
Thanks Mike V.



cracked_ribs
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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

Post by cracked_ribs »

Just a couple of things to consider...if you're working in somewhat cold temperatures, don't go with slow hardener. It will never kick. Even medium comes to a complete standstill at pretty moderate temperatures. It can be handy if you're doing lots of layers but unless you have a wood stove in your garage or whatever...I would say medium is plenty of time to work. MarinEpoxy has always been good to me.

Also, no point going glass-ply-glass-ply-glass. The middle layer of glass wouldn't be doing anything; this is the least stressed section of the material. Imagine an I-beam: the top and bottom are fat but the centre is barely there, because all it's doing it connecting the top and bottom skins. So you can skip the 1708 in between layers of ply. I don't know what the outer layup is like on C-Hawks but if it were me, I'd go down to glass, glue in 3x 3/4" ply, either meranti or douglas fir, and personally I suspect a single layer of 1708 would be plenty on the inner surface. So I'm costing you more on plywood, but saving you on glass and resin.

I've used wood flour on basically ever fillet I've ever made, I think. Works great. Not quite as smooth as cabosil, particularly if the mix is a little dry. But tough as nails.


Post pics when you can, everybody loves build threads!

Fuzz
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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

Try this for posting pictures. https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=64990

Welcome to the fun. You will find a good group of helpful folks here. Cracked Ribs gave good advice. Make sure you have the hull blocked up well so it does not change shape on you when you start gutting it.

Stinkbait
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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

Post by Stinkbait »

Thanks for tips. I'm still trying to figure out how to load up some pics, I'll get it eventually, I thought it would be as easy as copy/paste. Definitely gonna go w medium hardener than, cause maryland winters are all over the place(could be 30s one week and 70s the next). What do u think the best optimal low temp would be for the epoxy, to kick/properly cure.? The original transom is double 3/4 board w 2 beefy knees, I plan on strapping a 150 4 stroke to the back(425 lbs +) so I probably will end up tripling it up for overkill. Can I get away w glueing(thickened epoxy) the 3 sheets together first then glue and clamp as one piece, or should I add 1 layer at a time? Once in and filleted, 1708entire transom, then tab in w 2 layers 1708 strips@ 4 and and 8 inches overlap? Was thinking for cap of transom of just cutting a single strip of 1708 and overlapping once finished w everything else,sound right? Thanks again. Mike V.

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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Stinkbait wrote: Sun Oct 11, 2020 8:14 am Thanks for tips. I'm still trying to figure out how to load up some pics, I'll get it eventually, I thought it would be as easy as copy/paste. Definitely gonna go w medium hardener than, cause maryland winters are all over the place(could be 30s one week and 70s the next). What do u think the best optimal low temp would be for the epoxy, to kick/properly cure.? The original transom is double 3/4 board w 2 beefy knees, I plan on strapping a 150 4 stroke to the back(425 lbs +) so I probably will end up tripling it up for overkill. Can I get away w glueing(thickened epoxy) the 3 sheets together first then glue and clamp as one piece, or should I add 1 layer at a time? Once in and filleted, 1708entire transom, then tab in w 2 layers 1708 strips@ 4 and and 8 inches overlap? Was thinking for cap of transom of just cutting a single strip of 1708 and overlapping once finished w everything else,sound right? Thanks again. Mike V.
The biggest issue you will run into is the epoxy setting up before you clamp it.

I found the best way to clamp is under 10" of Mercury (vacuum bag), but you can clamp with lotsa bolts n washers and repair the holes later, prior to glass.

The way that I did my transoms was to use a 1/16" v trowel and apply thickened epoxy that is thick enough to not sag to both sides and use some pins to keep the location from moving when pressed.

You can also, of course, use weights. 10" Hg is just under 5 psi. So the weight requirements are rather high. I would say you need 2 psi minimum.

Depending upon how large your transom is; it can take quite a bit of thickened resin. If you had some batches ready, but some unmixed for need; it might work. And it will sound silly, but an extra person to mix the resins and thickener in can really help.

It is foolhardy to mix batches with over 15 oz of resin. For cabosil, you would add about 32 ounces (by volume) into a half gallon bucket and stir. Then move it out of the bucket to a flat board so it won't kick on you and to make sure you are mixed well.

Also, for plywood; you really ought to precoat with epoxy at 2 oz per yard. This can help prevent the plywood from pulling resins.

The job seems easy, but the resin demands are high. I wish I had kept track and could tell you the amounts.

My bonds are abot 40 mil with this strategy or around 1 mm, which per my reading, is ideal. However, I used non-plywood cores. I am surprised you have not co sidered coosa as well.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Stinkbait
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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

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Stinkbait
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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

Post by Stinkbait »

http://ghttp://gallery.bateau2.com/albu ... 80969.jpeg. sorry guys just to figure this photo posting out . mama always said i was special. lol

Stinkbait
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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

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Stinkbait
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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

Post by Stinkbait »

at least i have a couple pics up, my original plan was to replace any material that is removed w coosa and was impressed from what ive read up on it, but i really cant see spending $380 a sheet at a min of 8 sheets total for a commercial grade hull for the chesapeake. my local lumber yard has 3/4 inch marine ply for 108 a sheet and 90 for 1/2 inch. from what ive seen so far, it looks like all the structure is lined w either single or double 3/4 board,so im just gonna put it the same material i take out. it lasted almost 30 years, if i can get half that im happy. i hit the transom pretty good today, just have the corners left where cap meets. was thinking of trying to unscrew the capabout 1/3 of the up and try to lightly flex up and brace w 2x4s so i can work. anyone ever attempt this or am i crazy?.

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Re: 91 chawk 222 rebuild

Post by Jaysen »

Stinkbait wrote: Sun Oct 11, 2020 8:10 pm Image
That looks like

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