91 chawk 222 rebuild

[fallguy1000]

I use 40 grit. 80 is a little slow.

In order to go over the transom top; you need good radiuses. I preferred to wrap the top with the same glass to reduce fairing. But either way is fine.

I wrapped both directions and my transom top is 8 layers of 1700db.

Amine is a greasy feel. Almost never happens in a climate controlled setting. Warm water and soap for amine.

I never acetone wash. I use a high powered shop vac.

I only chem wash before paint. Then I use the manufacturers spec or denatured alcohol. Acetone and alcohol are both pretty hot. Make sure no pilot lights are on and wear a respirator for large areas.

[Stinkbait]

Thanks Fallguy, should I break out the gr iij under, or palm sand just enough to take the sheen away?, I have 40 grit pads for palm sander too?

[Fuzz]

I would wash down with warm water and soap. Something like dawn for the soap. Depending on where you get your acetone it can have contaminants in it. I would use the grinder, lightly, to scuff things up. The palm sander will take too long.

[Stinkbait]

I hit it w the grinder , but stopped , worried I was getting to aggressive w it, the sides are good, but where I got worried, was the bottom on hull side where the old stringer channels are. Apparently I got a lil heavy on the epoxy in some areas , and once I rolled it out , it's a lil uneven. I get the idea of scuffing cured so new bite, but w this 1708, should I be eating they the threads w sander to get the flatter part scuffed as well, and will new stuff bond to the previous ly laid glass if I happen to not get all the "shine" out of it w grinder? Sorry if these are dumb ????s anybody got a pic of prepped cured glass ready for new laminating overtop, just so I got an idea. Thanks

[fallguy1000]

Just sand it with 40-60 grit.

I'll see if I have a pic.

[Fuzz]

If you laid the 1708 mat side down you will have binding threads looking up at you. You just need to sand down enough to knock the threads off. You do not want to get down to the roving.

[Stinkbait]

Cool, that's where I stopped got the threads knocked off and lightly scuffed up the rest, yes I laid mat side first. Will be laying the transom skin this weekend, decided on 4 layers of 1708 to get me back close to what I removed. I have all four cut and ready to go in. Layer 1 is transom only, then 2,3,and 4 all fold out to hull at 2 6 and 10 inches, and 2", 3" and 4 " over and around the cap, then plan on topping off cap w a 6 inch strip. 4 layers on top should be go enough. That sound like a good plan?

[fallguy1000]

Sounds fine.

Easier to lay the longer ones first. Trust me.

Air entrains under the edges otherwise. Shortest last results in less air.

A lot of people incorrectly believe the shingle effect adds strength to fiberglass, but thickness and quality are the key.

Same for the 6" overlay on the top. All good, but you'll want to butter the transom with thickened resin first for quality wirk or you'll end up with air pockets.

[Fuzz]

That sounds about like what I did on my 21 Sintes. And it has 200hp hung on the back.

[fallguy1000]

Another thing is for 1708; you gotta roll epoxy on the bottom/boat side or it will not wetout correctly.