Sea Ox Rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
Dipper
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Dipper »

Thanks Fallguy. I ordered a 50 yrd roll of 4 and 6 inch 1708. When tabbing stringers is it better to run as long of a tape as you can handle or do smaller sections work as well/better?

fallguy1000
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Dipper wrote: Wed May 26, 2021 1:25 pm Thanks Fallguy. I ordered a 50 yrd roll of 4 and 6 inch 1708. When tabbing stringers is it better to run as long of a tape as you can handle or do smaller sections work as well/better?
I prefer to cut full length tapes. Fillet same day as tapes you have time for on one seam. So, for example, cut full length tapes, fillet, wetout tapes on table, move on cardboard either rolled or laid over themselves. I like to take long tapes and make them shorter for less epoxy waste to the table. So, say a 16' tape, I'd fold in half two three times so each section is 4' long. Pour epoxy over first tape and make sure all surfaces are wetted, fold over 4', epoxy and roll it to fully wet, ditto the other two. Typically, the bottom tape needs a bit more, so I flip the stack and use remainder epoxy there or where dry. The glass and epoxy weights are the same. So, you can weigh the tapes, say 2#, then you need 2# epoxy or say 2/9 (gallons) * 128 ounces per gallon or 28.44...I round up sometimes for big jobs to say nearest ounce or two more to get my ratios div/3. This may drive a bit of waste factor 1/30 is say 3% waste to table, etc.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Dipper
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Dipper »

Quick question for you guys that I'm afraid I already know the answer to. I started grinding yesterday and there are layers of tabbing with really large weave as well as some smaller imperfections and possibly small places where there were air pockets in the work. How perfect do I need to get this to be able to lay new glass effectively and can/should I coat the area with epoxy before my first layup? Also with the grinding wheel there are places that are higher than others although smooth so how flat/uniform does the area need to be? You can see in some of the pics how there was thick glass laid on top of the hull for the fuel tank for example and I eased/smoothed the edges but there is a large slightly raised area. Lastly, and this is a little laughable but any tips/tricks of the trade for dealing with the dust. I dont have a containment system only a shop vac. Obviously wearing tyvek, goggles and p100 but I feel like Im coating the neighborhood.
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TomW1
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by TomW1 »

I don't know what sander you are using but my Porter Cable has an attachment that let's it attach to my shop vac hose and sucks all the dust into the sweeper, well at least most of it. Now if I could just find the dang thing. Most other brands have a similar attachment.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

Fuzz
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

Lots of builders use woven roving for the last layer on the inside. That is what you are looking at. As long as you have things clean and roughed up from sanding you can lay epoxy and glass over it. I would not sand things finer than 80 grit and 40 would be good. If you have low spots you can lay some thinkened epoxy down first and the lay your glass over that.

fallguy1000
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Fuzz has it. Remove all paint and gelcoat (or most of it) and precoat uneven areas with thickened resin before taping. For larger layouts, you may need to precoat and sand.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Dipper
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Dipper »

There are lots of air pockets in the roving. I have sanded most of it out but there are definitely still some little small depressions/bubbles. I think I better fill them to some degree before laying glass. It will be crucial for this particular layup to be solid because it will be part of the tunnel and a failure would allow water into the boat so just want to make sure I do everything I can for a good bond.

After sanding should I just roll out a coat of epoxy to fill any small voids and lightly sand before starting the tunnel. Would it be beneficial to add a layer of 1700 over the top of this? The back of the boat may bump sandy bottom from time to time so I'm thinking that the thicker the hull here the better. I dont think I have gone into the skin much at all as when I have gotten through the roving the smaller 1708 weave appears and I stop. It is a hell of a lot of grinding to get through the roving however so if you think these small voids can be filled and are not an issue I may not remove all of it.

The_Bean
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by The_Bean »

Dipper,

I am going through the same issue with air pockets and dry areas. Original work on my hull looks shoty at best. I am contstatly fighting myself on how far I chase an air pocket or dry materiel.

I will be patching/thickening numerous areas once complete with grinding my hull out. It actually appears that where my sole attached to the walls they didn't lay it up until after their first round of interior gel coat. So i have a layer gel coat, then weave, than gel coat again that I am grinding though. I have piles of ground glass and gel when done each session.

A very long process and very frustrating as the weather here in Louisiana gets hotter.

Best of luck and your rebuild. I appreciate your questions as they are answering some of my questions also.

Regards

The Bean

fallguy1000
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

Normally, a simple wet coat of epoxy won't do much afa leveling goes. You really need to trowel on some thickened resins. Cabosil is best. If you want the resin to have more body for strength; you can make the fillers 50/50 cabosil and milled fiber. If you need to sand large areas of the filler; make it more like 75/25 microballoons to cabosil. But I prefer less sanding when possible.

An epoxy wet coat is fine if you are simply looking for a tie coat to old polyester, but you want to work wet on green here. Apply the tie coat day before glasswork. Raw epoxy doesn't level much, though, and a tie coat is really only done if you are worried the substrate will suck your wetted glass dry. ...unlikely with 1708, more likely with light roving
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Dipper
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Dipper »

I may just touch up a few places with thickened epoxy, give it a light sand and move along. I am considering laying a full wall to wall layer over the tunnel once it is finished. Any thoughts here? Will this add strength or is it just in my head and not necessary/waste of materials? Or better prior to tunnel?

I am picking up the coosa this weekend and should have most of what I need for the project. Got my glass, resin, and some tools last Friday. Big thanks by the way to Jeff and Reid for their assistance and getting it to me so fast.

Getting close to being finished sanding the bottom inside where the rear section of stringers was. Will go after the transom when that's done and will be ready with the new coosa core as soon as it is prepped and ready. Keeping my fingers crossed that I dont run into anything like Pamlico in/around the trans. I still believe that the trans and below deck are original so shouldnt find anything crazy.

Glad some of my questions are helping you too Bean and good luck to you as well. I definitely feel you on the heat. It was high 90s with heat index over 100 all last week here. Makes being in a full tyvek damn near unbearable. Had to keep stopping because my goggles were filling up. Actually ordered a 3M 6800 full face respirator couple days ago. Hope it helps a little.

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