Sea Ox Rebuild

Questions about boat repairs with our resins and fiberglass: hull patches, transoms and stringers, foam, rot etc.
Mr Pamlico
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Mr Pamlico »

They can definitely be some tricky waters. I have not decided on the exact location for my farm. I have a camper off of the Pamlico near wades point where the pamlico and pungo rivers meet. It will be somewhere in that area. I am actually in the shellfish farming academy at Carteret Community now and am hoping after that I will have a better idea of where I want to set up. I haven't done well at keeping up with how much I have spent on materials but I know I have torn $5000 all to pieces at least. I will see if I can come up with some receipts and get back to you. I had a buddy whos father worked at a local boat company and I was able to get my supplies through them.

cape_fisherman
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by cape_fisherman »

Dipper wrote: Thu Mar 18, 2021 9:15 amI am surprised being built in harkers that the craftmanship wasnt better on your boat.
Like anywhere...not all of the "experts" are experts...and even fewer have integrity. Some craftsmen on the island are just that...craftsmen. Some are just hacks.

Dipper
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Dipper »

Hey Folks,

My new "garage" is supposed to be here this week so I am starting to gather materials. I have sourced the coosa and glass but am looking for any suggestions /recommendations for epoxy. I have looked at the marinepoxy here as well as west, totalboat, and system 3. Any good/bad experiences with these or others. Want a quality product but trying not to break the bank (if you can say that when using epoxy and coosa). I dont have a lot of experience with epoxy so that may be a factor as well. Thanks in advance.

TomW1
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by TomW1 »

If you are using Coosa the best way to go is the Silver Tip sold here. I know it is more expensive but is made for things like Coosa and would be your best bet. Call Jeff or Reid and discuss it with them.

Tom
Restored Mirror Dinghy, Bought OD18 built by CL, Westlawn School of Yacht Design courses. LT US Navy 1970-1978

Dipper
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Dipper »

Tunnel 2.jpg
So I finally got my workshop built, got the boat in there and cut the back section of the deck out. The floor and stringer cores are totally gone only thing left is the glass. I was able to get a commercial fisherman who has put a tunnel in this same boat before to make a tunnel from the mold for mine. I left as much of the boat intact as I could up to this point to try to reduce any movement/warping but I had to pull the old tank to fit the tunnel. The guy that made the tunnel recommended cutting the hull 1/2 inch smaller than the tunnel, laying three layers of 1708 on top, then sanding the underside down until the hull edge is smooth with the tunnel and then lay 2 layers on the bottom followed by heavy fairing. Since I have never installed one of these tunnels, I'm a little reluctant to start cutting a hole in the hull until I have a solid plan and all the advise I can get from experienced builders. Obviously I will have to pull the transom or at least a large portion of it in order to tab the tunnel to the outer skin. Any thoughts or advice on how I should go about this or general order of operation?
Shelter.jpg
20210501_170551.jpg
Boat 1.jpg
Tunnel 1.jpg
Tunnel 2.jpg
Transom.jpg
Transom 2.jpg

Fuzz
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

If it were me I would go ahead and get the transom cleaned up and down to the bare glass skin. I would want to tie the tunnel to the transom skin. But if you do tab a lot of glass to the skin it is going to make things a little tricky to get the transom core in evenly.

Mr Pamlico
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Mr Pamlico »

Just spit balling here so you fellas that know what you are doing chime in. If the transom skin is thick enough what about tracing where the tunnel will be on the outer skin and then beveling out from there. Then tabbing in and sanding back flat. Then when you glue the transom core in it will have a flat surface to bond too

fallguy1000
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by fallguy1000 »

All demolition on the boat should be completed.

If you find the transom needs replacement, or a stringer, you want to understand those issues first.

That said, the boat must be solid and not able to flex or change when you start cutting for the tunnel. So, if stringers, then one at a time.

What is the exterior finish plan? Paint or gel?

What is the tunnel construction if I may? I have a decent understanding of glass requirements.
My boat build is here -------->

viewtopic.php?f=12&t=62495

Dipper
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Dipper »

I would definitely like to do all the demo first and have a clean hull to work with but I am worried about flex. The boat is sitting on a bunk trailer and I plan to leave the cap on (except for lifting it around the transom area) similar to the way Pamlico did it. Do you think this is enough or do you recommend additional support/cribbing. I will have to replace all stringers/bulks, transom and deck. The outside of the hull is in really good shape and I will be doing as little as possible to it as this will be a work boat. Obviously I will have to finish the bottom after the tunnel install but just plan to fair out and paint. The tunnel is 1/4" thick 3 layers of 1708/polyester.

I am concerned about the inside of the outer skin not being flat after tabbing in the tunnel but wondered if I could just lay glass layers to even out the rest of the transom and then a couple layers all the way across and try to sand back flat. Any thoughts here?

Fuzz
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Re: Sea Ox Rebuild

Post by Fuzz »

Once the hull is gutted it is going to be surprisingly flexible. Even more so with the tunnel cut out. Block the trailer up so the weight is not resting on the tires. they will let things move around when you are in the boat. No matter how good it seems to be now I would think you will need extra support to keep the hull shape.
I would go ahead and tab the tunnel into the transom very well. You can shape the transom core to fit the tabbing pretty easy. Wood or foam will sand much faster and easier than glass will. Just for info it takes 6 layers of 1708 to make 1/4 inch of glass.

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