1996 Cajun (Fishmaster) 2400 Bay Boat

[The_Bean]

The original layout had six 3/4" stringers with four knees. I plan to rebuild that original layout, but beef it up a bit. I am planning on a small splash well with a fairly large rear deck.

The thought behind the 3" transom is due to another idea of a large offset jack plate or bracket. Just not sure of the different stresses it will put on the transom.

A larger concern of mine is understanding and building for proper weight distribution. Ideally I would like to have little to no squat and keep as shallow a draft as possible. This stage is far off though and I have not committed to any of this idea. However, I feel I should over build the transom just in case I follow through with that idea.

[The_Bean]

I would actually prefer to make a mod to where and how the center stringers mount/tie into the transom area. The previous sump area was super cramped with all the rigging drilled through essentially the same area in the transom. And had maybe a 9" x 9" hatch to access everything with stringers running along the tunnel. Was a nightmare to say the least.

Anyway, here is a rough pic of what I am thinking. Any glaring issues right off the bat? Think this is possible with the right thickness of laminate?

[The_Bean]

And just read back a bit.

Boat was originally rated for a 225. I would like to replace with a newer 4 stroke 200 or 225.

[Fuzz]

Personally I do not think 225hp needs a transom three inches thick plus all the glass it will have. But it is your boat and you get to make the calls you feel good about. The drawing with 4 stringers and knees should work just fine and be plenty strong. You tie the deck to the transom and add a splash well and it will be darn strong.

[fallguy1000]

The thing that makes a boat squat aft is too much weight from engines and build.

Avoid defeating your goals. The drawings look good. A splashwell, right?

Many boats benefit from a bulkhead forward of the splashwell. This allows full height to protect occupants from broaching sea. And it also helps transfer force to the hull. You have to allow for the engine and rigging to tip into the well, of course..

A nice high well side also allows a home for rigging tube higher and drier.

Curious what the hull was made of...surprised solid glass..just wondered if it had core and whether you evaluated the core health, so to speak. Your work looks great, so guessin you are way ahead of me here.

[The_Bean]

Fallguy,

The squat concern is from the thought of a 17" porta bracket. Completely not committed to the idea, just considering it.

I am planning a smaller splash well, mainly for clean rigging placement, but size depends on offset of bracket/jackplate.

And I believe you are correct, I do not want to defeat my goals and totally over build. I will look at incorporating a bulkhead where the center stringers split to tie into a splash well.


Thanks

Bean

[fallguy1000]

Another thing to be careful of...my cleats for the splashwell were right at my lower engine bolts. Make sure cleats and knees and stringers won't interfere with bracket or engine placements.

[The_Bean]

Fallguy,

Yes, good point and thanks. I know there are tons of items I need to make notes on in order to ensure proper placement of things.

Guess I will start looking for templates or creating my own over the coming weeks and figure out the ideal scenario for strigers/cleats/sole/knees/bracket...

A lot to figure out.

Thanks

Bean

[The_Bean]

Another grinding session down...

Have a buddy coming over to help tomorrow for grinding. He was the only to volunteer... A few others have chimed up and said they'd lend a hand when the epoxy opens up. Totally understand, this is disgusting work. Dang dust is everywhere. Anyway here's another pic of the progress. Moving slowly, but moving...

Beginning to mass supplies. I have ordered and received one 15 gallon kit of silver tip, 3 gallons of gel magic, several aluminum bubble rollers and 10 yards 1708 & 10 yards 1700biax. Also hit up the local (new to me) Harbor Freight and got about 30 3" chip brushes. Hoping to be grinding complete and have all supplies necessary for starting transom and stringers no later than June time frame.

Anyway here are a couple pics for the update.

This is a through hull cut I made early on while cutting stringers and sole out. Any recommendations for layup for fix? Thickness? 1708 or 1700?

Original layup seems to have been from outside in woven -> chop -> woven -> chop -> woven. about 1/4" thickness mostly throughout the entire hull, except for transom area which is about 3/8". Hull appears to be solid glass, but will know if there is a sandwich material as the grinding continues.

Bean

[Fuzz]

Grind the area out and feather back a good 12 inches. It will take 6 layers of 1708 to build up 1/4 inch of glass.