PH18 - Getting Started in LA

[Muddler]

First coat of faring compound.



Bill

[Poseidon's Rook]

Man, ya'll are scooting right along aren't ya

Oh, and looking good

[lil' shrimp]

looking man, so josh when are you gonna start on yours? let me know cause i wanna help so it will make my build go easier and yours faster.

[Poseidon's Rook]

I actually just bought my plans this past Friday. Waiting on them to arrive (estimated delivery is the 28th) so I can look them over. I already have the money set aside to purchase all the plywood and resin/fiberglass...just wanting to look the plans over before I order everything else. Then, I hope to get started in March sometime.

[Muddler]

I have a couple of things I need advice on. I am in the process of fairing the hull and filling the smaller depressions and bumps is easy enough. I have an area about 2-feet forward of the transom on the port side that when I push down on it it will depress about 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch before it bottoms out on the stringer/bulkhead. If I fair to this "rise" I am guessing that it will not be fair when the boat is turned over.

Looking under the side of the boat I can see that if I where to place on end of a clamp on the bottom of the hull at the chine and the other end of the clamp under the edge and on the end of the bulkhead where it meets the side panel, I could pull the bottom down to where the bottom would sit on the bulkhead/stringer. This would be the more or less the way things would be when the boat is turned over when the bulkheads and stringers are laid in and epoxied in the bottom.

The Second question: How flat does the last four feet need to be and flat in which way? Laying a straight edge on the keel at a 20 deg. angle (as I have read elsewhere) back to the transom I can see areas that need to be faired. Laying the straight edge on the keel and the chine (parallel to the transom) I see other area that need to be faired but not the same areas as above. If I lay the straight edge with one end on the transom (parallel to the keel) I see other areas that need faring but not necessarily the same areas as pointed out above in the other straight edge orientations. This is all rather confusing??? So how flat is flat and in which direction is best? How much gap is to much 1/32", 1/16", 1/18", 1/14"? When I read absolutely flat, I'm thinking <1/64". I just wonder what will happen after I spend a week fairing to that level of fairness when I turn the boat over and gravity and other mechanical forces press on the bottom of the hull from the other direction.

Third question: What is best for the chine edge, rounded or square? I will be adding a spray edge from the bow aft about 8 feet.

Bill

[FLYonWALL9]

Pictures of the hull bottom with a nice straight edge
would help. I would fix it but without pictures I'm not
so sure how.

You want the edges to be a clean one, some say a
good radius some say sharp edge. I like a little radius
but not rounded. It can be done with your fairing mix
and sanded with your RO. I don't like them SQ because
of dents and so forth.

When putting on your spray rail keep in mind if its at
the water line you may have some slap at rest in chop.
This spooks fish, just put it high enough to be out of the
water at rest and low enough that it will work as intended.

[Muddler]

Fly:

If you look at the picture I posted a couple of posts back, the area I am talking about is on the right side just above where the bulkhead is located (about 2 feet forward of the transom). If I lay a straight edge at an angle of about 20 degrees (this is one end about 20 inches forward of the transom on the keel and the other end of the straight edge on the chine up about 10 inches forward of the transom) the center of the straight edge is on the high spot and there is a 1/8" to 1/4" gap just aft of the middle of the straight edge and just forward of the middle of the straight edge. I can post a picture but it will be later tonight.

Like I said my biggest concern is not the process of fairing these areas, but what happens when the hull is turned over and the bulkheads and stringers are placed back in the boat. The hull is currently floating so to speak and not fastened to the bulkheads or stringers. In your experience will the hull change its shape when it is turned? I do not see how it would not change to from to the shape of a cradle or the bulkheads. If I place a cradle, under the hull when turned, in the locations of the bulkheads, will I not change the shape of the hull to fit the bulkheads, which is not what I have now?


Bill

[FLYonWALL9]

Bill,

From what I have seen yes they will change shape some until those
internal parts are installed. If I recall the PH boats use regular vertical
stringers. You say you can see this gap translate to those also? Meaning
the stringers are straight and you see a gap between them and the
hull bottom? If thats the case I think once in the cradle and the stringers
are in the problem may resolve itself. Just sounds like the panel isn't
being supported from the inside. IF I'm understanding what your saying.

I'm pretty thick headed when it comes to understanding text but pictures
tell me loads. I know what your saying though. You lay the edge and an
angle to the sheer and you see the issue. I had the same thing in my OB
and I just filled it. Then flipped the boat. I don't see any reason to be in
limbo, you can still sand and fair the sides and bow area

[Muddler]

Scott:

Thanks for the reply. So is it your opinion that I fair to a point when the hull is against the stringers? I do have some gap looking under the boat at the location where the stringers should meet the hull. On your OB did you pull the hull to the stringer and then fair? Like I said earlier I could put a clamp on the outside of the side panel and pull between the bulkhead and the chine. The clamp would be on the outside with one end of the clamp on the chine and the lower end of the clamp extending inside and pressing on the bulkhead pulling the two together. Would you recommending securing temporarily with screws so I can remove the clamp?

Thanks again!

Bill

[FLYonWALL9]

Well, OB's are different animals well the small ones anyway.
They use flat stringers rather than verticle ones. Here is what
I am thinking and why.

If you take the stringers and push on them so that they touch
the inside of the bottom of the boat, that then fixes the issue?
So, if you fair it now then go in and set the stringers in place
that would then make a rocker in the hull. Tell you what take
some wedges and make it so they push the stringers into the
hull bottom. Then go and lay your edge along the hull bottom
and see if the problem goes away. If so, I wouldn't worry at
all with it. I would leave those wedges in place until you have
the outside of the boat faired. Then flip her over but onto something
that wll support the boat were your stringers will be so when you
glue them to the hull bottom you can put a little weight.

Also, I think Jaq put out a tut. that used 2x4's on the outside
of hulls to pull out hooks and push in rocker. Not sure at what
point those were used but I do recall something like that. I don't
see why you couldn't screw some 2x4s to the hull flip it to glass
the inside and install your stringers then flip back, finish fairing
fill those little holes and press on. Sure its one more flip but that
surely will give you a flat bottom.

I wouldn't put too much pressure on any screw or strap that will
cause a hard spot or bow. Just enough to aid in pulling it out. I
used fairing compound on mind but now wish I used the 2X4
method, I think it took nearly 1/2gal or resin to fill mine.