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Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:33 pm
by Lower
Well it's time to start the build thread. This is one of my little helpers. He was more excited than me to start cutting.

Image

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:37 pm
by mecreature
I got one of those helpers too.. He sure has some nice tools...LOL

that shop is clean now.. but just wait...

good luck and post everything I am very interested in the FS17

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:42 pm
by Lower
Not sure if I'm doing the pictures correctly. I followed the directions, but I do not see an image?? All I see is my link.

mecreature seems like he saw it??

Just want to be sure I'm doing it right before I post more...thanks.

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:46 pm
by Lower
another try...

Image

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:47 pm
by UncleRalph
Image

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:49 pm
by Lower
Alright...help me out. I want to be able to post pics for you guys. Don't want to just post links. What am I doing wrong??

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:53 pm
by jacquesmm

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:55 pm
by UncleRalph
Lower wrote:Alright...help me out. I want to be able to post pics for you guys. Don't want to just post links. What am I doing wrong??
Here is a description of how to post pictures.
http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?t=13991

Jacques beat me to it.

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:58 pm
by Lower
Image

Read it 5 times...thought I was doing it right. Was cut and pasting the URL off the top of page instead of in the properties box. Gotta READ the directions. And to think I'm going to build a boat...HA!

Thanks.

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:05 pm
by UncleRalph
The link in "Location" in the "Properties" box after you right click on the picture looks like this:

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userp ... GP0757.JPG

When you use the Img button you get this:
Image

Ralph

Edit: It looks like you got it.

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:13 pm
by PastorBob
Mask and goggles to cut ply.... this is going to be a nice boat.... Boys we have a new detail oriented builder.... Actual most of us work like your son... No shirt, shoes, mask, or goggles.... :D

All joking aside Welcome, where are you?? and remember we like pictures!!! :lol:

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:13 pm
by mecreature
I just went to your gallery..

I would think you would get alot of participation on this thread..

good luck

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:18 pm
by Lower
Think I'm on track now. I was just trying to bump up the number of posts. Trying to catch up with Cracker Larry's thread!

Spent the last couple weeks drawing out the parts. I enjoyed that part. I know some buy kits...but I had fun laying out the parts. Whether it fits together or not is another story.

Cut all the pieces out over Labor day weekend. Feels good to make some progress.

Image

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:33 pm
by Lower
I should be doing 100 other things right now, as I am at work! hahaha.

Oh well, wanted to get this page up and going. Pastor Bob...I updated my profile. I'm in Ma. Building the boat for fishing. Spend a lot of time in RI and Cape Cod.

Secondly...no professional here. I will admit to being detail oriented though. That's why this pic kills me.

I had one last piece to cut out. I was tired and should have waited. When I cut it, I cut inside my marked line. Every other cut is pretty darn accurate. This one sucks.

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It's a good 1/8" difference than the original (I traced). I know gaps are good...so...do I leave it alone and just stitch it up or do I sand them equal? Is an 1/8"+ worth worrying about?? Sanding them equal will make them smaller than called out for on the plans.

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:37 pm
by jacquesmm
1/8" doesn't matter.

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 3:12 pm
by BruceM
If the boat comes out anywhere near as nice as your fishing plugs, then I don't think you have anything to worry about. I'm sure it will look great.
It may seem overwhelming at times(especially when you get to sanding) but it's a lot of fun so enjoy it.

Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 4:30 pm
by steve292
Nice to see you away with the build Lower,There are three of us at the same sort of stage by the looks of it. I am a mechanical fitter by trade, & I spent ages agonising over the width of a pencil line when I cut, so I can understand you being a bit peeved over a misplaced cut.BUT at least you did'nt miss the camber on frames A & B like I did. :oops:
enjoy yourself,
steve

Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:13 am
by colonialc19
Glad to know somebody else has had a problem cutting on the lines. I'm also building a FS17, I have a few cuts that sre not exactly perfect but from what I've read there close enough. After a few mess ups I started cutting just outside my lines or marks and sanding to them with a block until I had a nice smooth line. Im a first time builder and not exactly handy with power tools but so far so good ( I Hope). Good luck
Daniel

Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:41 am
by jacquesmm
I should put warnings in big bold letters on every drawing:
"Warning, precision above 1/4" is not required."
:wink:

Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 11:15 am
by Lower
Thanks for the comments guys. I decided long ago that if I started this, I was going to have fun with it. First time build, so I'm not going to stress on perfection. Plus...It's a fishing boat!

Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2007 11:30 am
by steve292
jacquesmm wrote:I should put warnings in big bold letters on every drawing:
"Warning, precision above 1/4" is not required."
:wink:
Agreed, but when you have spent years striving to work to close tolerance
+ or -3mm comes as a bit of a shock, it's a hard habit to break.The danger I found is that you take a bit to much of a cavalier attitude to it & WHOOPS!!! there goes 50 quids worth of plywood! Good job epoxy is gap filling.

Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 2:33 am
by maxgsx
I employed a friend as a first-fix chippy when he came back from travelling the world. He used to be a metalurgist in the tungsten-carbide industry. Showing him how to do timber studwork was fun. He kept cutting the noggins 20 thou undersize 8O :lol:

Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 4:26 am
by TheBroomside
+ or -3mm comes as a bit of a shock
Steve,

It is even worse : +/- 6 mm :wink:

Peter
L.U.S.

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:47 pm
by Lower
Making progress...slowly but surely...(the fishing has been pretty darn good around here. Hard to work on the boat when your on the water!)

Little buddies helping me with the last measurements...

Image

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:48 pm
by Lower
Transom (before clamping boards)

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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:51 pm
by Lower
Stringers glued together. I know, I know...to many clamps. You just get so excited busting out that epoxy for the first time!

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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:53 pm
by Lower
Transom glued. I used screws to keep everything aligned (dowels work as well). Great tip I picked up on here somewhere...Thanks!


Image

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:55 pm
by Lower
Cut my stringer notches. They all lined up really well.


Image

Next step is fiberglass splicing the big pieces together.

I can't wait to see if this thing is actually going to fit together! hahaha

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:12 pm
by steve292
Lower wrote:Cut my stringer notches. They all lined up really well.

I can't wait to see if this thing is actually going to fit together! hahaha
It will,have faith :lol: nice work.
Steve

Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:48 pm
by mecreature
How thick is that transom clamping board and all?


It will look like a boat here real quick..

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:22 pm
by Lower
Question for those with FS17 plans. Somethings been driving me nuts. I'm trying to finish the jig. Question is on the motor well sides. I am looking at the plans again and am questioning something. Are the top (22.5") and the bottom (17 7/8") parallel? The measurement on the transom side is throwing me off. It shows larger than the "frame E" side. However if that measurement is the diagonal measurement it works fine. Otherwise it would change the transom angle when set on the 2X6??

Following that question...if the measurment shown is the diagonal measurement is that true for the stringers as well?? If so mine are 1/4" to big a the transom end (no big deal I can sand down). I measured straight up and then cut the angle, leaving an angle cut larger than the measurement shown.

Seems like a rookie question...probably is, however, I want the jig to be put together correctly.

Posted: Fri Nov 30, 2007 10:27 pm
by Lower
mecreature wrote:How thick is that transom clamping board and all?


It will look like a boat here real quick..
You probably have your answer by now, but the transom is 4 thick using 3/8" ply...~1.5". Sorry about that.

and to your second comment...it will look like a boat...how quick is a different story! Slowly but surely. :D

Posted: Sat Dec 01, 2007 4:06 am
by steve292
Lower,
My plans are in metric, so here goes. The transom side(with the clamping board cutout) is 10mm(approx 3/8th) higher than the frame E side. The baseline side & the hull side are not parallel as I recall. One tip- when you draw them out use the baseline as your datum, I didn't & cut the sides with the slope on the baseline instead of the hull side:oops:
hope this helps,
Steve

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:19 pm
by Lower
Just an update. Still plugging along. Built a temporary wall in the garage. My wife agreed to the build, but on the stipulation that she could still get her car in the garage and she didn't have to blow dust off her windshield every morning...fair enough.

Image

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:25 pm
by Lower
Here is a pic of the strongback. Jeremy gave me the idea to use the blocks. 3 high seems to be a perfect height.

Quick story...my brother-in-law is a mason. He's also going through a divorce, so he has some time on his hands. He keeps popping in and giving me a hand. It was so funny watching him work on this strongback. All I have to say is it's got to be the most level, square, perfect jig possible! hahaha...I kept saying Matt...we have some leway, relax. I guess it's just not in his blood. He leveled every block and locked the strongback down with fasteners. Anyway, he had fun and it was theraputic with all he is going through.

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Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:35 pm
by Lower
These might help someone about to start a FS17 build.

First of all...Thanks Steve! It seemed as if the two sides were not parallel, but my brain was not letting me figure it out. So easy too. So for those reading this that are going to build...cut the motorwell sides so that the baseline is straight and the hull side angled. Not rocket science, but I intially overlooked it. This helps things line up better and gives you the angle you want for the transom.

The second pic is how I hung "A". I attached the bow mold to "A" then clamped a straight piece of wood across the top of the baseline. Kinda acted like a third hand. Lined it up and screwed it into the strongback.

Image

Image

Not real exciting...but I look at a lot of pictures before each step...so if I can help someone else, great!

Should have the jig all locked down this week. Panels are all spliced. Could look like a boat soon.

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:27 pm
by mecreature
good idea on the "3rd hand" Lower.. I dont know I would have thought of it..
Little tricks do help and speed things up and make it more accurate.

Everything seems obvious after you get it right.. LOL

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:43 pm
by jacquesmm
Thanks for posting all those pictures. theye will certainly help others.

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:02 pm
by colonialc19
It will not be long now, gona start looking like a boat. Great pics, wish i'd have had an opportunity to see em' before I built my jig, like you say its not rocket science, I seem to make things more complicated than what they are also.
Keep at it.
Daniel

Posted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:24 pm
by steve292
Lower wrote:Here is a pic of the strongback. Jeremy gave me the idea to use the blocks. 3 high seems to be a perfect height.

Quick story...my brother-in-law is a mason. He's also going through a divorce, so he has some time on his hands. He keeps popping in and giving me a hand. It was so funny watching him work on this strongback. All I have to say is it's got to be the most level, square, perfect jig possible! hahaha...I kept saying Matt...we have some leway, relax. I guess it's just not in his blood. He leveled every block and locked the strongback down with fasteners. Anyway, he had fun and it was theraputic with all he is going through.
Take it from me, when you come to align everything a square & level platform that won't move is a godsend. mine is moving a bit as I sand, & taking away some of what I put in.It is something I have to address with some extra bracing maybe.
Steve

Posted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 9:15 pm
by bushmaster
Hi lower


Did you use 3/4" for the transom and one 3/4" for the clamping board?

Did you make adjustment to the motorwell sides or lenghten/shorten the Hull sides and bottom?

Thanks

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 1:47 pm
by Lower
Sorry, I didn't have much time to respond over the holidays. Bushmaster...I followed the plans. 3/8" ply--4 thick.

So, I did have a chance to work on the boat some during the holidays. I hoped to have gotten a lot more done, but unfortunalty you can only go as fast as the process allows. 3 nights a few hours each night...went something like this:

Stitch...problems...cut...stitch...not right...cut....stitch....curse....cut....stitch...measure...cut....go inside read forums...follow advice...stitch...still not right...cut...curse louder...remeasure everything....seems right...stitch....I think you get the point. Sound familiar Steve, Jeremy, Daniel???

I don't know why that was so hard. Spent all the time I had alloted for the boat on stitching! In the end I pretty much got it, but it sucked. Can't wait to move on!

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:46 pm
by steve292
10-12 hrs to stich the hull? thats not bad. It helps now that you can tab the panels & allow the fillet to cure
Image
then just work on it when you have an odd 1/2hr or so.
one tip I will say works well is to get under the hull & tape up the back of the joints with packing tape.use the bag method for filleting,I only mixed up about a tennis ball size at a time.It really does save money on epoxy.
how about a pic? :D
it gets better from here as you will see progress 8)
regards,
steve

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 7:04 pm
by colonialc19
Lower,
The stiching sounds about right, took me about 4 tries if I remember right, probally the worst part for me so far. After you do your fillets/glue, make for sure you round those chines and transom edges, I had some problems there :oops: didn't put enough radius on them.
Just getting to see the basic hull together is really exciting, thats when the fun begins.
:)
Daniel

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 8:28 pm
by bushmaster
Thanks Lower,

Boy..i didn't realize it would be that involved.

I have just started to put together the molds, I will build every thing with molds except the transom. because when i take the hull off the molds will not exactly anyway.

You are looking GOOD MAN

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:31 pm
by davidtx
Lower wrote:3 nights a few hours each night...went something like this:

Stitch...problems...cut...stitch...not right...cut....stitch....curse....cut....stitch...measure...cut....go inside read forums...follow advice...stitch...still not right...cut...curse louder...remeasure everything....seems right...stitch....I think you get the point. Sound familiar Steve, Jeremy, Daniel???
This is exactly where I am. At first I had to take blood pressure breaks. Now I've just accepted that I have lots of planing to do and it will eventually work out. Shooting for fair... But definitely harder than I thought it would be. A friend called it a 3-D jigsaw puzzle...

-david

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 8:54 am
by jgroves
Lower,
Looking great! I like the way you mounted your blocks! The stitching was probably the most aggrivating step so far. I can only guess what the future holds though:doh:
Jeremy :D

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 12:02 pm
by Lower
Thanks for the comments guys. Steve...I'll give you props man. Your stiching looks textbook!

My stitching came out alright. Most areas look pretty good, but I do have a few 3/8" gaps or so. I realized a couple of my side panel splices weren't "perfect" meaning angled slightly, leaving a gap in that area. Also made it hard to align everything. Once I discovered that it made it a little easier. I allowed the gap to stay and worked around it. Pulling that gap tight really killed the bottom panel straightness. Oh...and getting to bow to come down was a $%#@% too.

Thanks for the tips though. I've already taped the underside. Now it's just time to break out the epoxy. Daniel...I'll be sure to round those edges down. I saw and learned from your experience. Thanks.

I'm just such a perfectionist...it's really hard to accept errors. I know in my head it's all fine, buy my science brain wants everything to be perfect! I keep saying to myself...It's your first boat...continue on...

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 1:06 pm
by steve292
repeat after me...............gaps are good...gaps are good
I am starting to think that there is good & good if you know what i mean :doh: I got mired in the swamp of unacheivable perfection as well 8O
you'll get it,have no fear 8)
steve

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 12:50 pm
by Lower
WOW...had to go to page 3 to find my thread...pretty sad...sorry.

Since the last post I have stiched and glued...

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Fiberglassed...

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and am now fairing...

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Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 12:59 pm
by Lower
Also had to take some time this spring to turn a few plugs (needed a break from the boat)...

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Fishing has been great by the way!

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:05 pm
by Lower
Lastly...

I got a hot tip from BruceM (he built a Garvey 11 on this site) about a trailer. Friend of a friend was selling a practically brand new trailer that was perfect for the FS17. Figured it was worth a look. Went to his house...thing looked brand new, only saw water 2X. He upgraded to a trailer with brakes. I'm not ready for it yet, but for $500, I was all over it!!

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So...that's everything in a nutshell. I post more pics as I approach the painting phase. Hope everyone is doing well!

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:19 pm
by tech_support
great trailer, and very nice plugs. Do you sell the plugs?

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 6:19 pm
by topwater
Very nice plugs indeed :!:
Where have you been fishing?
The merrimac?

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:04 pm
by steve292
Hey,you've caught up :D
I agree with the others,they are very nice plugs 8)
Steve

Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 8:49 pm
by colonialc19
Those plugs are sweet!

yeah, if you sell em' put me down for a couple poppers 8)

Daniel

Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:33 am
by Lower
Thanks for the compliments guys. I was laughing as no one mentioned the boat! hahahhahaaha....jeez am I doing that bad!!!! Just kidding. It's fishing season...don't blame you for looking at the plugs.

I started making plugs a few years ago to kill the NE winter. It's as addicting as this boat build. I've never sold one. Make them to use and trade with other guys that build. Here is a pic of another plug that is my absolute favorite. It's heavily weighted in the rear and walks the dog like crazy. Pops and darts all over the place. Fish hate it! It's my goto plug for sure. Buddy got a 35 lber on one last week. I won't be building again for awhile, but if someone is seriously interested, I'm sure we can work something out. I love getting emails from guys killing fish on plugs I made.

Hey topwater...I fish both the Cape and RI. Spent 90% of my time so far at the cape. I fish from a kayak (and or use it to access a spot). I have ALOT of friends who fish Joppa. Have wanted to join them, but just haven't had a chance. Plus when your into big fish...why leave em right!!??

Steve...not even trying to keep up...just pluggin along.

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Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 7:57 pm
by topwater
Lower i really like those plugs.If you ever want to sell some
i would buy them :D
I only had the chance to go out once this spring"i have two boys
one plays lacross the other plays on two spring hockey teams"
caught a couple of nice stripers. Connecticut river right behind
the basketball hall of fame in springfield.



By the way the boat looks great.......... :!:

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 1:50 pm
by bushmaster
Hey Lower


How is the build coming along? Please post some more pictures.

I am about to get into the painting. My 6 years old grandson likes RED. What do you think about red for the sides and graphite on the bottom?


Bushmaster

Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 8:35 pm
by Lower
Bushmaster...sorry I haven't responded. Away on vacation and then came back to a crazy week. I've been having a enjoyable evening sitting here looking at all these beautiful boats that have been being launched lately.

Anyway...I really don't have much to update on. Cut all my rubrail strips and rough cut the skeg. I'll post some pics when I complete that stage.

I'm liking the idea of graphite on the bottom. Red would look great with that. Check out Cracker larry's thread. He orginally was going to go with red. Somewhere in those pages you can get an idea of what the red looks like with the graphite. Can't wait to see what yours looks like with some paint on it! Keep us posted.

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 3:21 pm
by Lower
It's been awhile since I posted any updates. I'm still pluggin along.

Since my last post I have installed my rubrails. Luckily my bro-in-law had a huge box of these clamps for some reason. Was nice as I was able to do both sides at once (one layer at a time though).

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Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 3:27 pm
by Lower
I also cut and shaped my skeg. Ended up laminating 3 pieces of 3/8 ply. Installed the skeg as bushmaster and ohters have shown. Proped up on sticks and held in place with the weights. Tabbed them in place. Once dry, I filled the gap and made a fillet down each side. Fiberglassed to hull. The lamination was really nice between the boat and skeg, howver it did bubble up on me at the top edge. Looking back there really wasn't enough of a radius. I sanded out the bubbles and filled it in...no big deal.

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Here is the bottom/skeg after some work. It's pretty much faired in. Still need to do a little fairing behind the skeg, but wanted to wait until the transom edge was done.

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Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 3:37 pm
by Lower
Finally, the transom dam. No rocket science here, stole this right from Larry and Joel. It really did make for a nice edge on the transom.

Here is the set up...

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and the result. (I still need to sand these down and fair in)

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Well, I'm still plugging away. Can't wait to get this thing primed...I'm so tired of looking at the bottom!! In due time I guess. With that said, I'm trying to get as much done as I can before the 12th. Heading up to Maine on a moose hunt for the week. Looking real foward to that!

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:55 pm
by jgroves
I like the transom edge maker :D Looking good.

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:58 pm
by Cracker Larry
Excellent job there! Very nice 8) The transom dam should have a patent :lol:
I'm so tired of looking at the bottom!! In due time I guess.
In due time you'll have been tired of looking at every part of it :P I can relate to that.

Moose hunt sounds like fun. I've never hunted moose. You got to be a strong SOB to drag one of those things out of the woods :help: Good luck.

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 6:34 pm
by TomW
Really nice. As said before nice transome dam. Have seen moose big guys.

Tom

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:16 pm
by chicagoross
I have clamp envy!

Old Alaska joke: Newcomer asks "where do you shoot a moose?" Old-timer responds "right next to your pick-up truck!"

Posted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 8:38 pm
by Cracker Larry
Can you lead them into the truck first :doh:

Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 3:52 pm
by Lower
Thanks for the compliments!

Will be my first moose hunt as well. It's a lottery and it's not an easy one to hit. My bro-in-law (another one) lives up in Maine and has been putting in for a tag the past 16 years. He was finally drawn this year. 86,000 applicants...~8000 tags. Let's say he was MORE than excited. A moose hunt is a group thing. He is the primary and then he also assigns a secondary. Both are permitted to shoot. The rest of the group scouts, pushes, etc. I'm really excited to be a part of it, just can't figure out why it has to be during some of the best fall fishing in NE!

As for moving the moose Larry...wheelers and winches! I saw pictures from a friend who got one a few years ago. Two wheelers pulling the moose to the truck. You could have put a 4 lane highway in from the drop spot to the flatbed! I'll take pics.. :wink:

Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 6:02 pm
by TomW
Lower have fun. Had a cousin that lived in Maine that I visited in the 70's and he had a big bull that made a routine of traveling through their back 40 every couple of days. He was a preacher so of course he never told anyone about him. :D

I have to say of all the antlered animals I have come across the moose is the dumbest of them all. Dear will run off, elk will hide or run, moose just stand there unless a bear or something they perciece is bigger than them is going to hurt them.

Oh well it makes a good stew and smoked meat. The tenderloin is good to.

Tom

Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:14 pm
by D2Maine
nm

Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:41 pm
by Cracker Larry
That little deer don't need a winch :doh:

Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:08 am
by D2Maine
nm

Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:48 am
by chicagoross
The moose will probably rip the pockets out of the truck bed sides like that...

Used to run across them often hunting in Wyoming, but we never had tags. I don't think they were particularly stupid, they just seemed kind of pissed off that I was in their part of the woods...

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 1:22 pm
by Lower
Well we made it back. It was a LONG week of hunting. I met up with everyone Sunday and headed to camp. Perfect little hunting camp up on Nicatous Lake. The surronding area is owned by a paper company. So it's all logging roads and 4 wheeler country. Beautiful setting. THICK woods! We spent all day Monday and Tuesday driving the dirt roads, riding the 4 wheelers around and hiking off the beaten path. Basically trying to find a nice area to hone in on. On tuesday evening we found a great location. Nice clear cut leading down to a bog. Fresh tracks and lots of broken tree limbs. It was a good as spot as any to focus on. Long story short, we sat in that area for the next 3 days. Sun rise to sun set. Some long boring days!

Now I've heard that moose hunting isn't hard. And I have to agree from the aspect of they aren't skiddish like a deer. But finding these critters is NOT easy. Defintily a needle in a hay stack. Those regions up there are big! Anyway our persistance paid off and we got a nice bull Friday morning. 12 point ~795 lbs. We were a tired, but happy camp! What a great time and great expereince. (We could have started a recycling company by friday!)

This is my bro-in-law Peter with his moose.

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Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 2:15 pm
by Cracker Larry
8) Did he shoot him by the truck :help:

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 5:30 pm
by steve292
How big a dog did you have to retrieve that? :D :D :D :D
Steve

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 6:33 pm
by ks8
Now you know what it's like to try and lift my boat. :lol:

I hope it was mostly a downhill drag. Chilly nights by now too, yes?

Speaking of moose and Bullwinkle, does anyone know what the *J* in Rocket J. Squirrel stands for? Yes, I realize the relevance has silenced the room.... but after all these years, I have yet to find out... :?

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:36 pm
by cape man
Rocket J. Squirrel, usually called by the nickname "Rocky", is the name of the flying squirrel protagonist of the 1959-1964 animated television series Rocky and His Friends and The Bullwinkle Show (both shows often referred to collectively as The Rocky and Bullwinkle Show), produced by Jay Ward. His sidekick is the cartoon moose, Bullwinkle. Both Rocky and Bullwinkle were given the middle initial "J" in reference to Ward.

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:15 pm
by TomW
Good show! Glad your bro got one. Yep if you wait long enough they will come back by you. Stupid animals seem not to care about what they smell. Only about what they can eat. Once saw a bog with 2 bulls, 5 cows, and 5 young uns in it. Mid-summer so the bulls didn't seem to care about territory yet.

Hip Hip Horray for Peter. :D He deserves it for finding the right spot and then following through.

Tom

Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 9:27 pm
by Lower
Definitly a great experience! He wasn't far from the truck...but I wouldn't consider him close by any means! We had cut a few trees down and use the wheelers to move him. Once we got him to the truck it was everything we had in us to get em up into the bed. Luckily there were a few of us. Tenderloins and liver have already been eaten. The rest of it is being processed. Think we'll have plenty of moose meat for a while.

And I learned something today as well...thanks Cape Man!

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 1:10 am
by ks8
thank you cape man. :)

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 6:42 am
by cape man
Google search and Wikipedia. Gotta love it!!!

I'm green with envy on the moose. Have only seen one in the wild once, while hiking in Glacier Nat'l Park. VERY impressive animal when you see them in the woods, and amazing how stealthy they are for such a huge beast.

Now get back to building! :lol: :lol:

Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2008 9:18 am
by Workin Man
Sorry to hijack this back to moose hunting. Awsome moose Lower! We got one as well, but just a little guy. This year and last year we had bulls cross the road in front of the truck on opening day. This year though we had a bull tag, so my buddy jumped out of the truck and ran after him and dropped him 70yds from the road. 200' of 1/2" nylon rope plus 20' of chain attached to the trailer hitch on the pickup and he was out at the road in about 5 minutes. Luckily 3 guys happened along and helped us lift him into the truck (only 2 of us). My buddy trried to get a video of it coming out with his digital camera, but the batteries died.

Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2008 10:33 am
by Lower
No hijack here Workin Man...until I make some progress on the boat, this is a moose hunting thread!

Opening day moose...that would have been nice! Would have made for a nice rest of the week! Instead we were in the woods 8 hrs a day...I guess that's not so bad either.

Congrats on your moose as well! Can't wait to get my first load of meat.

Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:13 pm
by Lower
OK...back to the boat. I finished the transom edge and it looked soooo nice I ended up going all the way around the boat. Definitly added more time, but it does look nice.

Here is the chine edge pre build up

Image

Using Joels method (slightly modified to avoid drilling holes) the chine dam

Image

and the result (after ALOT of sanding!) These edges are HARD

Image

Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:16 pm
by Lower
I then had to join the transom edge and chine edge.

Corner pre:

Image

I believe a first of it's kind...The corner dam:

Image

The result

Image

Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:27 pm
by Lower
I also spent a few nights fairing the sharpened chines into the hull. I'll post pics soon. Trying to post pics and stay active here, because once this boat is flipped I'm going to have lots of questions!! :D

Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 2:30 pm
by Cracker Larry
Very nice 8)

Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 3:20 pm
by TomW
OOOHH thaatt's so nniiicccccee! :D :D :D

Tom

Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:52 pm
by jbo_c
Very nice work. I'm impressed.

Jbo

Posted: Tue Nov 04, 2008 11:36 pm
by ks8
Sharp. Right to the point. Cutting edge method. A slice of genius. :D

Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:28 am
by Lower
Thanks guys.

So I'm getting to a point that I'm not sure if I'm making things better or worse with the fairing. I know she's not perfect, but I'm having a hard time telling what to do where. Seems like a good time to put a coat of primer on and give it a guide coat. So, having never painted a boat before, how much primer should I mix up at a time? I would like to do the entire hull on this pass. Do I mix enough up to do the whole thing? or in batches? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Might even be inpired to do it tonight. Using System Three yaht stuff by the way. Thanks.

Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:33 pm
by ks8
Though it takes a bit more prep time, if you devise and prepare a quick and accurate way to mix 2, 4, 6, or 12 oz batches, joyfully, then if you come up short, there is no BB stress to mix a final 2 or 4 oz for coverage with who knows how disastrous a bit of guesswork on ratios. How much you will need per coat for that hull, I do not know. I've only used S3's WR155. Their Yacht primer may build differently when rolled or sprayed or whatever it is you are doing.

Once you know a coating product well, it is much easier to decide how much to mix and when, right from the start. Until such a time, prep to easily and accurately mix various sized smaller batches as needed. That's my two shekels, or cents, or pence, or centavos, or... you get the idea. :)

Once those sharp edges are primed and the primer is cured, don't sand them with much rougher than 150 grit, and even then, a very light pressure, else you'll sand the primer right off those edges. And do the primed edges by hand, not with an RO. :wink:

Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 1:59 pm
by Cracker Larry
I'm recently familiar with rolling the yacht primer, more familiar than I anticipated even :doh:

It's going to take about a quart to roll that boat on the first coat. A little less on the second. I try to mix enough to do it all in one go, but it's not imperative.

The reason is you to mix a part A with a part B and let it percolate for a half hour or so before you can use it. By then you've lost your wet line and your finish will show the overlap. Of course you'll sand this off, but I like to just keep moving with a wet edge. If you mix too much, go ahead and start your next coat with it. Pot life is 4 hours or better so you have plenty of time to apply it.

Oh well, it finally quit raining here and I'm off to sand on mine, one more hopefully last time :lol:

Once those sharp edges are primed and the primer is cured, don't sand them with much rougher than 150 grit, and even then, a very light pressure, else you'll sand the primer right off those edges. And do the primed edges by hand, not with an RO.


I have the best luck with Scotch-Brite pads on the edges. Don't even touch them with the RO :wink:

Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 3:14 pm
by TomW
Agree with Larry a quart or a little more should be good for your hull. No problem with extra, it has a 6 hr pot life at 70 degrees according to the literature. After 2 hours it should be dry, check it with it your finger, should be no paint lifting off. Do your lite guide coat and a 150 sand with the fairing boards lightly. These will show the high and low spots best if your going for a really good finish. Put some QF in the low spots and sand down the hi spots, and put the extra primer in the cooler to extend it's life if you have much left over.

I seem to do this over and over with the 40 year old Mirror. Just can't seem to get her done to my satisfaction. Now on my 5th coat of primer. You won't have to do that with your new wood and new build and I won't with my new build. Whew!!! :D

Tom

Posted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 4:33 pm
by steve292
TomW wrote: Now on my 5th coat of primer. You won't have to do that with your new wood and new build and I won't with my new build. Whew!!! :D

Tom
Want to bet? :D
Some emperical observations for you
I used 625millilitres of S3 yacht primer on each coat on mine,which is just under 22 US fluid ounces, with just a bit left over. I reckon you could get away with about 18 oz for your hull, without the high sides.
If I did it again , based on my experience with it, & it is nice stuff to use BTW-
I would put one coat on which will show any major flaws such as pockets,or pinholes straight away, without sanding & fill them with QF, sand these back with 120, then put two more coats on to give you some thickness to sand,then do your guide coat bit with the longboard & 120, fill,sand, recoat ect, & when you are happy sand to 320 or whatever the manufacturer recommends for the paint. I used just over half a US gallon to do the outside of mine. The S3 techs told me to spot prime over any QF before topcoating, when I asked about painting over QF BTW.
I just rolled mine & used a 1" brush just to tip out any small runs or drips,you'll be sanding it anyways, & it does sand easy.Just a FYI here, after 3 days it sands like chalk, after a week it is a ******* to sand 8O
Ask me how I know :oops:
What colours, & paint system are you going with? Just interested :D
You've done a tremendous job of fairing,judging by the pics.
Steve

Posted: Thu Nov 06, 2008 9:43 am
by Lower
Thanks for all the helpful information guys! I appreciate it. Didn't get to the primer last night. Decided after 4 straight nights in the garage I better hang out with the wife a bit :!: Plan to hit it today though.

Thanks for the pot life info. Guess that's why I wondered how much to mix. Would hate to have a big batch start kicking on me. 2 part paint is a new one for me.

Hey Steve...pictures can be deceiving! I think it's pretty good, but I know I have areas that need work. That's why I think a coat of primer will help. Help me see a little better where I am. Going to take your advice on the multiple coats, thanks. As for the paint and colors...Not sure yet. Figured I'd wait to see how the fairing came out before I decided.

Sounds like I should use 120-150 on the fairing board when sanding the guide coat? Is that correct?

One thing I can say for sure, I've sure learned a lot about how one step influences the next. This was my first time fiberglassing and I did my best. But I can sure tell how a few areas of "overlap" created nightmares fairing.

Posted: Fri Nov 07, 2008 10:29 am
by Lower
My picuture posting is a few days behind my actual progress.

Here is the boat fairly fair and ready for a coat of primer

Image

Image

Image

You can see how nicely the quickfair blended those edges into the hull and sides...love that stuff!

Posted: Mon Nov 10, 2008 8:28 am
by jgroves
Woohoo primer time :lol: Keep this pace and you will be boating in no time!

Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:18 pm
by Lower
Rolled a couple coats of primer on. She looked good. Then marked the DWL and attempted some graphite. Not good. Original plan was to do 3 coats in 24 hrs, but then "the scobies" (if you are uncertain about that term see Dougsters thread).

Here's my question. My boat is in the garage. I heat the garage with a little heater. Can get the temps comfortable, but it isn't Corona temps by any means. So the heater is on the transom end. The day I tried the graphite/epoxy I kicked the heater on for a bit. The transom end was probably around room temp. The bow, however, was pretty cold to the touch. Didn't really think anything of it. So as I was spreading the mix things were going OK, then I got to the bow. The epoxy was kicking a bit and I poured it on and tried to spread it. It got thick fast! Couldn't hardly move it. It was a huge epoxy/graphite sludge mess. Ended up just scraping it off (after some choice words). SO...does a cold surface have this affect? Oh and the bit I did get spread...LOADED with scobies. Guess I'm trying to figure out of the problem was the epoxy kicking or the cold surface or both.

Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:23 pm
by Cracker Larry
SO...does a cold surface have this affect? Oh and the bit I did get spread...LOADED with scobies. Guess I'm trying to figure out of the problem was the epoxy kicking or the cold surface or both.
No, it's not the cold surface. It was just time for the epoxy to kick. Once it starts there is no stopping it.

Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:35 pm
by steve292
Did you sift the graphite powder first,before mixing it in? That will help with the scobies.Also a stir with a stick every 1-2 mins helps to stop the graphite clumping.
I think the Cracker is spot on with the epoxy kicking. The filler gives it more mass,which accellerates the "kick". I put it in a paint tray when I did it & mixed smaller batches,but you have to start at the previous "wet edge" if you like before it tacks up, or it will drag.I used about 20% graphite by volume in my mix & did 4 coats in all, but could have got away with 3.
Spokaloo advocates tipping with half a foam roller to get out the bubbles.
good luck,
Steve

Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:01 pm
by tech_support
you can sift it, but I have never needed to. I just mix it in slowly and thoroughly I pour it directly on the hull and move it around with the roller quickly, it does not spend more than 5 minutes in the pot after mixing. If there are air bubbles then tip then out with a foam brush. If the epoxy is starting to gel, then mix a new batch, you want it to flow and lay out flat

Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 11:26 pm
by ks8
Lower wrote:So as I was spreading the mix things were going OK, then I got to the bow. The epoxy was kicking a bit and I poured it on and tried to spread it. It got thick fast! Couldn't hardly move it. It was a huge epoxy/graphite sludge mess.
Welcome to the brotherhood. You are hereby officially recognized as initiated, first level anyway. :wink:

It's some kind of reflex panic reaction. It starts to go and we throw the blob on the boat. :lol:

Took me four years to learn to throw the bowl with the hot blob out of the tent and get to mixing a fresh batch. Almost had to do it again tonight mixing with fast while sealing hatch covers, so it would be cured in the morning, but I made it with a few moments to spare. Have fun... (deep voice) brother boat builder.

If I don't make it to Crystal River this spring, I don't know if I will ever myself get to learn the secret handshake. :?

Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:11 pm
by bushmaster
Lower

Looking very good. I think it looks like mine but then they all do.

Keep up the good work


Bushmaster

Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:51 pm
by Aripeka Angler
oops wrong thread deleted :oops:

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:36 pm
by Lower
Well it looks like 09 flew right by!!!!! hahahaha...can't believe I haven't posted since 08! Well, I'm back. I've been working on the boat here and there when time permits. Since my last post on this thread, we've added a 3rd little one to our crew. Little boy...Benjamin. He kept us pretty busy through the winter. With the nice weather I've been inspired to get building again. Figured it was time to update the pics a bit. These pictures are OLD...but you guys don't care...there pictures right?

It was actually fun going though the pictures...like memory lane. The last post I had on here, the bottom and sides were pretty fair. Once complete, I put a few coats of primer on.

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:44 pm
by Lower
Then I picked a beatiful Friday, loaded up a bunch of coolers and threw out an open invite. The actual flipping of the boat only took a few minutes, but the party went on thoughout the evening! What a fun day!

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 12:53 pm
by Lower
We then lifted her onto her craddle where she'll live for the next 3 years :lol: :lol: :!: :!: hahhahahahaha. Funny it was after we were all done and sitting around chatting that a huge load of people showed up! Not that we needed anymore to flip the boat...but amazing what full coolers bring to town!

Image

I will keep updating this as I get a few minutes. I want to bring it up to speed as more and more questions seem to be popping up now that I'm getting into the inside.

Hope all is well for everyone.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:07 pm
by colonialc19
Glad to see your back at it 8)

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:36 pm
by tugboatt
Kris -you are the man! looks great - now the race is on - we'll have a "shed" day soon - congats again - Tim

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 9:28 pm
by steve292
Nice to see you back Lower :D :D
Hull looks great.
Steve

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:53 pm
by Lower
Thanks guys. Appreciate it. Sounds good Tim...say when...

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 1:02 pm
by Lower
So after we rolled her back into the garage...I put some straps on the shear and pulled the frames.

Image

Picked a nice Saturday, got some help together and fiberglassed the entire inside, wet on wet. That was a pretty long day...

Image

I could just jump to where I am now, but it's fun going through my pictures and posting them, hope no one minds. I'll eventually catch up to where I am.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 6:19 pm
by remedy32
Lower,

Hull looks great!!

I love the shots of your flipping crew. Hope I can find that many volunteers to flip my FS17 (structure completed and pretty heavy) in a couple of weeks to do the bottom. It does look easy with that many people for sure.

If your travels ever take you to eastern CT drop me a note. I'm hoping to get into the water later this spring.

Bill
remedy32
Old Lyme CT

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2010 10:47 pm
by Steven
Looking good. Wet on Wet is a chore, but well worth it.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:19 pm
by Lower
Thanks again guys. Bill...coolers full of beer...that's the trick! They will come in herds! I would love to make it down that way sometime. Would be nice to see one finished. At the pace I'm going mine won't see water for years!!!!!

So once the inside was glassed, I was onto the stringers. Propped them up on popsicle sticks as I learned here, but a nice bed of thickened epoxy down and dropped her in. I did something to keep them in place, but can't remember now! Weights maybe??

Image

As you can see in this picture I then started getting the frames ready.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 3:23 pm
by Lower
Failed to mention that I did tape the stringers down. The took a lot longer and much more epoxy than I expected! The hull really starts to stiffen up with those in place. From there I aligned the frames and taped them in as well. "A" was full height, "B" was cut down for the casting deck, "C & D" are at sole level, and "E" full height. Not too difficult but took me awhile to get it all aligned properly.

Image

That's all for this week. Next week I'll show what I decided to do for the casting deck.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 12:32 pm
by Lower
So onto the casting deck...

Basically the sole as designed would look like this:

Image

All I wanted to do was figure a way to utilize the entire area from A to B as a deck, but keep things simple. So what I did was raised the stringers and created a deck 6" above the sole. The casting deck now serves as the "sole structure". (I asked about this in the power boat section prior to doing it! I do NOT like to deviate from plans!) Because I did not intend to have storage here, this was a good solution for me. Gives me a nice wide casting deck that is somewhat "down in the boat". The area below will be foamed and deck will be glassed.

Raised sole from bottom string line to top string line (actually a little higher than top line as you can see in the next pic):

Image

Stringers raised and what deck will look like:

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:40 pm
by steve292
Nice work 8)

looks familar :help: I find the urge to build again strangely compelling :help:
Steve

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 4:44 pm
by Cracker Larry
That is good work 8)
I find the urge to build again strangely compelling
It's a sickness :help:

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:43 pm
by BruceM
I like seeing your progress Lower, looks great.
That forward casting platform will work out perfectly I'm sure.
maybe you could store 2 batteries under there to power a trolling motor up front 8) just saying.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 2:26 pm
by Lower
Thanks guys...I appreciate the nice words. One of the reasons I got back to this thread...needed the encouragement!!!!

So next I started working on the center console. I wanted to be sure I liked the shape/position, etc before I started figuring out chase tubes. I laid it out using diminsions from the plans, jeremy and larry's consoles. It fits great and looks very proportionate! I like it.

It actually tapers in from bottom to top to give a little shape to it. Can't really tell from this pic...I'll have to take another. I have left it unfinished as I have some questions coming...

Image

So, here's what the boat is looking like with the console laid in on the frames and stringers

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:00 pm
by tugboatt
great job Kris - still a 1/2 mile in front of me - congrats T

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 1:50 am
by TomW
Kris/Lower looking good, wish I was that far along on the C17/18. Looks like another couple/4 more months may get you on the water. Keep on trucking on!

Tom

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:37 am
by Lower
Thanks Tim, Thanks Tom....appreciate it.

So the latest work done on the boat was chase tubes. I read and read on the threads what would be the most ideal layout. It seemed from most posts, 3+1 is ideal. I put my console in, and then took some time to see how I could get it to work. I drew it out on paper and then started cutting holes.

2-1.5" chase tubes from starboard stern to console (electrial)
1-2" chase tube from starboard stern to console (controls, steering)
1-1.5" chase tube from port stern to console (fuel)
and finally a 1.5" from console to front of boat (trolling motor, lights, etc.)

PLEASE take a look at this layout and let me know your thoughts. From all the pictures I have looked at, I'm thinking this is pretty good, but would like confirmation before I lay the sole down (which won't be for a little while, but still, I'd like to know issues before it's too late). Thanks!

Still need some cleats on the sides, but here is the interior prior to chase tubes:
Image

Chase tubes:
Image

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:34 pm
by Boater45
Lower,

I'm building an OB17 and that is exactly what I was thinking for the chase tubes. Your build looks great. Thanks for the posts. :D

Will

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:49 pm
by tugboatt
looks great Kris-- are you going to put limber holes-- drain holes --through the frames along the keel?

still in spinning mode here - but you have me motivated! Tim

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:17 pm
by stickystuff
Got a suggestion here. If you do not plan on adding flotation, which you should, take a can or two of spray foam and foam in all around your chase tubes. This will keep them from rattling or vibrating while running. Got to think ahead of these things. Once you deck it in you won't be able to get back under the sole without chopping something up. Great job. : Very neat.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:46 pm
by Lower
TIm...I am actually not planning to do so. In response to stickystuff, I plan to foam the entire bottom (thanks for the advice though!) and seal it up with the sole. The front hatch/anchor locker will actually drain onto the casting deck in front so no need to run drainage to rear of boat. From the pictures I have looked at, if the grid is foamed in and the sole is sealed tight I should be all set. That's my thinking anyway.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:44 am
by tugboatt
Kris - i'm of the mind that I would rather have the option of seeing if any water gets in and being able to drain it.
condinsation or leak thru wherever - I'd rather get it out - i plan on using a brass plug at he base of the transom for this.
still catching up on other projects- sea ya T

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:32 am
by Lower
I understand what you saying Tim. From what I've read/seen it seems most guys tend to do this:

Image

Image

Image

I was pretty much planning on doing the same.


I will have a drain plug in the back, but it's really for draining the motor well.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 1:07 pm
by Steven
Looking good. Nice clean work. I sealed my compartments as well. It's one of the reasons I decided to move the fuel tank to under the casting deck. Fewer holes in the sole for potential water ingress. All of the chase tubes terminate in protected compartments, so unless I crack something, it should be extremely unlikely any water can get to places it shouldn't.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 10:23 am
by Lower
So I just returned from visiting a friend in Oregon. We did a 3 day float on the Deshutes river. I'm very lucky in that I've fished it with him before. It's such a beatiful place. The three day float was the way to do it though! Float and fish until dark. Set up camp, have a few drinks, relax on the banks and wake up and do it again! This time of year is pretty amazing too, as you get to throw dry flies the size of your thumb! The salmon fly and goldenfly hatches are pretty amazing. Anyone here ever been on the Deshutes?

The river:

Image

The bugs:

Image

The fish:

Image

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 11:12 am
by NW Trout
The D is a great river. The redsides that call it home can be epic in their fight as well as their disdain for the poor imitations on supposed dead drifts through their holding water that we anglers try. Can be humbling or awesome. Looks like your trip was on the awe side of the equation. Strong work.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 2:26 pm
by Lower
Thanks NW trout...it was awesome. And yes, the redbands are quite a fish. I really love that place.

So back to the boat. Before I left for Oregon I was able to glue in all the cleats. I used gelmagic to glue them in. Wow...I really like that stuff.

A few pics prior to foam:

The sole area:

Image

The casting deck:

Image

both:

Image

You can see that I ran the cleats through a bandsaw to get a flatter surface. Maybe not necessary but it's nice that the sole is sitting on a somewhat flat surface.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 2:35 pm
by Lower
After that I put two nice coats of epoxy on everything. Once cured, I replaced the chase tubes and glued them together with that smelly PVC glue. It seemed ready for foam at that point. I picked a Friday night, bought a 12 pack of cold Corona, fired up the garage heater to make sure I got good expansion and went to town.

It took a few batches to really get the hang of, but once I figured it out it went fairly well. It's just knowing that fine line of when it's mixed well enough and still pours well and you mixed a little long and it's starting to go and doesn't pour as well. I also realized you don't want to touch it once it's growing. Turns it to wet cotton candy sticky mess. All in all it was fun, I sweat my rear off but the beer was good...

Foamed:

Image

So that's where I'm at. Sole has been dry fit just need to coat the backside with a couple layers of epoxy first. Then find some time and glue it down. Maybe this week...we'll see...

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 4:55 pm
by steve292
Nice work fella! 8)
Your getting there now.
Steve

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 5:21 pm
by cape man
That is a major step, as from now on you will never see that part of the boat again...

Looks great!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 6:00 pm
by Cracker Larry
Excellent work 8)

Every time I see pics of that grid of stringers and frames and foam, I can't help but think how STRONG a hull like that is, and how it is almost unsinkable no matter how big a hole you punch in the bottom :D Makes me feel warm and fuzzy all over. Could be the rum though :lol:

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 10:32 pm
by wegcagle
Great job. Really clean.

Will

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 12:20 pm
by Lower
Thanks guys. I like the positive feedback, it keeps me going. Secondly, if you guys notice anything or see me going astray please pipe in. Hope to get the sole in soon. I'm really enjoying this part of the build. It really feels like it's coming together. Starting to get solid too! I just have to keep my priorities set as my wife and 3 kids need me more than the boat! But I squeeze it in when I can!!!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Jun 29, 2010 2:34 pm
by colonialc19
Everything looks great Lower, one suggestion though, if you plan on mounting anything on the sole, glue some backing blocks on the underside, you probally already thought of it but just in case 8)

ask me how I know :oops:

Daniel

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 4:04 pm
by Lower
More progress...

I was going to lay the sole down in two sections, but opted to join them together and lay it down at one time. On our rediculously hot 4th of July weekend, I was able to coat the bottoms of both the sole and casting deck with 2 coats of epoxy. Wow...does that dry fast in 95 degree weather. I feel bad for you guys down south...guess that's why they make the 3 curing speeds!!!

Anyway...here's the coated sole and casting deck

Image

coated sole

Image

coated casting deck

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 4:14 pm
by Lower
A few days later I scuffed up the epoxy where it would contact the stringers and frames, invited a friend over and glued it down.

Image

The next day I did the casting deck.

Image

I let it sit for a few days, then removed all the weights. I then mixed some thickened epoxy and filled in the gap between the decks and sides.

Sole and casting deck glued down.

Image

I intentionally left a 1/4" gap (well 1/2" unintentionally in some spots!) all the way around the deck. The deck dropped in really nicely and it didn't take much epoxy to fill in the gap. One other comment...the top picutures of the coated decks are after 1 coat of epoxy...the second coat really thickened it up. Next step is back to fiberglassing...well after a 2 week vacation on Cape Cod. Hope to post some progress in August!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 5:31 pm
by mecreature
looks good...

great job

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 10:32 pm
by Rob Eades
Wow,when we all bought all those dumbells years ago,could we have ever imagined that the best use they would be put to would be holding down a boat sole :wink: Flats of shotgun shells work real good too. 8)

Good lookin' boat!

Rob

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:59 am
by steve292
Nice work Lower, that's a big step taken there 8) . gets a lot easier to work inside the hull now.
steve

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 3:47 pm
by cape man
May you never, ever see anything that is under that deck again!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Jul 16, 2010 4:43 pm
by Cracker Larry
May you never, ever see anything that is under that deck again!
Amen :!:

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sat Jul 17, 2010 10:53 am
by Lower
I hope not either! I dread the thought of having to remove that sole! On another note, the boat is sure getting solid. Amazing how when the pieces come together how solid the boat becomes.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:40 pm
by Lower
Well I managed to get the sole taped in. I then cut pieces of 6 oz cloth to fit between the 6" fiberglass tape. I wet it out and in the end I have a sole completely glassed. Slow and steady...

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Aug 13, 2010 10:05 pm
by cape man
Awesome! She's solid now baby!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 9:02 am
by tugboatt
great job Kris-- I've been real lazy on the build - as i found out I'm going to
be a grandfather! So now I've been building a baby dory bassinette for my grandson!
I'll send pics later-- great fishing summer also--
I'm now at anchor waiting out Earl - up the Hudson -- sea ya Tim

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 10:19 am
by chopperman
That's quite an accomplishment to get the sole in 8) You're keeping me encouraged to press forward on my Phantom!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 10:35 am
by Marshall Moser
I was curious about an update on this one. I really like that front casting deck.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2011 8:57 pm
by Lower
Wow...just for digging this out, I owe it to you to update. I'll post an update with some pictures tomorrow. Sadly, I can't say the boat is done. I do keep pecking away at it, but life is just too busy. I noticed my last post was in August 8O ! I know exactly what happens...by the end of August the bonito and albies show up here in NE. I get all wrapped up in chasing them around. Then I'll work on the boat a bit in Nov, early Dec, then its winter time fun...snowboarding, snowshoeing, etc...especially with the winter we had. Then spring hits and the Stripers show up. I love the spring run of stripers. Then that puts us back to where we are now!!!!!!!! So anyway, no excuses, but I'm still not done. Thanks for pulling this up. I've been wanting to post some pics.

N

Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 7:54 pm
by steve292
Lower wrote:Wow...just for digging this out, I owe it to you to update. I'll post an update with some pictures tomorrow. Sadly, I can't say the boat is done. I do keep pecking away at it, but life is just too busy. I noticed my last post was in August 8O ! I know exactly what happens...by the end of August the bonito and albies show up here in NE. I get all wrapped up in chasing them around. Then I'll work on the boat a bit in Nov, early Dec, then its winter time fun...snowboarding, snowshoeing, etc...especially with the winter we had. Then spring hits and the Stripers show up. I love the spring run of stripers. Then that puts us back to where we are now!!!!!!!! So anyway, no excuses, but I'm still not done. Thanks for pulling this up. I've been wanting to post some pics.
Nothing wrong with that, we walk this way but once, may as well enjoy it :D
you are hanging it out a bit tho'' :D :D :D
steve

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Aug 23, 2011 9:09 pm
by Lower
Hahahahaha...very true Steve! Kicker is I squeeze that stuff in for my own sanity between all the kid stuff!!!! When I started this build they were just little and going to bed early, now the nights are getting later and it's harder and harder to get in the garage. I won't give up on it, I just do what I can when I can and hope some day that will result in a finished boat! I will finish it, but gave up stressing over when!!!! You get some hours on your boat this summer?? I sure hope so, it came out so nice.

I will post some pics, It's been a rough week at work. Have not had the time. Maybe tomorrow.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 3:36 pm
by Lower
Alright...little bit of an update and some pictures. This build is not happening fast, but what's the saying...Rome wasn't built overnight!

After the sole was completed I started on the back hatches. You guys know the routine, but here it is anyway...

Glued in cleats for support:
Image

Cut out topsides (pre-attached cleats for hatch):
Image

Filled in the gaps with thickened epoxy, then layed out the glass:
Image

Wet it out:
Image

Need to finish the hatches, but having these done allowed me to move onto the gunnels. I apologize for my long stretches with no posts. I do check in ALOT, but don't post as much as I should. More to come...

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 4:01 pm
by Lower
So onto the gunnels. First step was frames. Had to decide on a size that worked. Looking at the other FS17 builds I decided on a 8" gunnel tapering to 4" or so near the hatches. I cut them out of cardboard to see how they looked:

Image

I liked the size so went ahead and cut them out. I like leaving a gap on everything, so I popsicle sticked them and tabbed them in place:

Image

Obviously, the fillet and glass come next:
Image

I put cleats on the tops of all the frames. Also added two small frames (on each side) for extra support. One in front one in back. You can see them in various pictures. Also you can see in this pic the sole drains are cut out. Drilled, filled and re-drilled:
Image

Few more pics to come...

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Aug 24, 2011 4:15 pm
by Lower
So this is kind of how the boat was looking overall. Frames are in, cleats on, sole drain holes done, motorwell sides done. You can also see the control chase tubes are boxed in, as is the gas tank chase tube. I boxed them in like Steve did, poured foam and then put a coat of thickened epoxy (like iceing on the cake):

Image

From there I started on the gunnel support. Pretty much copied others in how to do so. Notched the frames and bent into place:

Image

My next big step is to layout and cut out the actual gunnels. I still love working on the boat and haven't lost any steam. Time is my biggest challenge!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 4:30 am
by gstanfield
Any progress in the last month? I really like how you did the taper on your gunnels, adds so much to the lines of an already good looking boat :D

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Sep 26, 2011 10:26 am
by Baitcaster
gstanfield wrote:Any progress in the last month? I really like how you did the taper on your gunnels, adds so much to the lines of an already good looking boat :D
+1

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:46 am
by Lower
Thanks for checking in guys. I need to take some new pictures. I haven't done a ton, but have made a little progress. I cut the gunnels out of cheap ply to use as a template. I need to transfer this to good wood and cut out. I've also been working on the console a bit. I'll take some pics this week and update.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 11:03 pm
by gstanfield
Pics would be nice 8) Glad to hear that all is well :D

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:51 pm
by Lower
Hello, Hello!

Well I'm putting my pride to the side here and admitting my boat just isn't done yet! Other things in life took priority the past few years and I just had to put this project to the side. With that said, I haven't given up on it and I'm ready to finish strong! I wanted to get back on the site and active again as I'm going to need help and direction on the finish work. Electricals, fuel lines, controls, etc. I'm going to need help in regards to what I should be buying and more direction on how to install it. I have truly missed working on the boat and am anxious with your help get back on it and finish it up.

Looking back at the pictures I HAVE made some progress. The gunnels and inwhales are done, the console has been mounted and fiberglassed, the interior is fair. Most all mounting holes are drilled and filled. It's pretty much ready for primer in the spring. I only have a couple recent pictures, I'll post them on the next post as I have to remember how!

Thanks in advance for your help and I'm feeling good I can get this boat in the water in 2016!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:54 pm
by Lower
Lets see if I remember how to do this!

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:56 pm
by Lower
Got it! Notice the boat is in a different garage. Moving definitely side tracked things for awhile.

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:31 pm
by Cracker Larry
That's looking real good 8) Glad to see you back!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 2:48 pm
by jorgepease
Looks Great!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Jan 20, 2016 5:45 pm
by Lower
Thanks guys. Kind of embarrassing Larry that you have built 4 or 5 boats in the time I built one!! Oh well, it is what it is, right! Keep checking in. I'll be posting some questions on what stuff I need to get on order for the electrical etc. I have a good idea from doing some searches but would like some confirmation. Thanks again.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:46 am
by willg
Lower, really nice craftsmanship and finish on your boat. I'm going out on a limb here and guess that you're not a professional boat builder and have other means to pay the bills, so no big deal that your build is aging like a fine wine. Keep the pictures coming!

Will

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Jan 21, 2016 12:07 pm
by topwater
Don't sweat it Lower , I am still finishing up my boat also and i think we started at about the same time :wink:

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Jan 22, 2016 8:30 pm
by colonialc19
Boat looks great Lower, looking forward to seeing it done :D

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sat Jan 23, 2016 12:30 pm
by Rmarsh
The boat looks great! I especially like how your gunwales came out.
Doing the electrical and rigging was the most enjoyable part of my center console C17 build.

Where will you use your boat when it's finished?

I'm located on the MA/RI border...not too far if you wanted to have look at the wiring/rigging up close.


Bob

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 5:54 pm
by Lower
Thanks guys. I appreciate the kind words. Rmarsh I'm in central Ma. Typically fish around the Cape and Narragansett bay. Was a little harder getting out the past years with everything going on but did my best. I saw your boat come to an end. Looks great and I'm sure it's seen a few fish! Thanks for the offer as well, I might just take you up on it.

So, here's the kick off to some of my questions. I want to start gathering things but need to know what I'm buying! I found a number of wiring diagrams but this one that Larry drew up for someone seems to fit the bill pretty good for me. Any reason not to use this as my guide?

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Jan 25, 2016 6:03 pm
by Lower
Seems like I need to start with one of these:
https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... attery_Kit

Dumb question but that's why I'm back...65 A or 120A?

Secondly, I guess I'll need a circuit breaker. Suggestions? Should I do a circuit breaker like this?? Maybe the 5052 model?

https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... ker_Blocks

And a 4 or 6 position panel. One of these??

https://www.bluesea.com/products/catego ... ura_Panels

Well, that's a start. Thanks in advance for your help!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 9:59 pm
by Lower
I was leaning toward a two battery set up as I would like to run a 12 volt trolling motor off the house battery. Anyone have any thoughts on the stuff I linked above? I'd like to start ordering some supplies but need a little guidance. Thanks!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:04 pm
by wegcagle
Lower,

That's actually the wiring diagram that I drew up for my GV15. I based it on CLs diagram as well as the diagram off the Bluesea website. Works beautifully for my needs.

I run my minn kota 55lb 12V (55A draw) all day, and haven't run out of juice yet. Also run my radio, charge my iphone, run the depth finder, livewell pump, and an aerator. So far so good. I did get a group 31 battery in the compartment as my house battery (probably overkill, but so it most of my boat. That's kind of the point :D ). I use a group 27 as the starter. I will say that it's VERY rare that I run my trolling motor at max draw, and when I do it's probably less than a minute. Usually run at 3.5-5.5, just enough to pull my live bait at 0.7-1mph.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 7:37 pm
by Lower
Awesome, thanks so much for chiming in. Seems like a perfect set up for me. I need to buckle down and start buying stuff. Do i want the 60 or 120 battery switch? I'm still a little lost on what to buy. I'll figure things out as I go but want to order the right stuff to start. Thanks again for your help. Great diagram by the way!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 8:39 pm
by Cracker Larry
60 amp will be fine for that boat.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 11:10 am
by wegcagle
Agree with CL (especially since the majority of my DC wiring knowledge is due to his builds and documentation :D ). 60A is appropriate. I wouldn't want too big of a breaker. It could lead to overheating (and possibly fire) in the wires if there was a big surge.

Will

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:41 pm
by Lower
Perfect, 60 amp it is. Thanks guys. What about the breaker? I'll be getting it from blue sea as well. Any recomendations? Once I figure that out I'll put an order in and start laying it out. Appreciate the help.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:05 pm
by Cracker Larry
60 amp breaker max.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:08 pm
by peter-curacao
Cracker Larry wrote:60 amp breaker max.
That's big, not sure I think mine is the same with a separate 120 amp fuse for audio, but then almost all my lights are led

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:57 pm
by TomW1
A 60 amp main breaker or fuse as Larry recommends is what you need for your main system. But you will need smaller fuses for some of your other electronics. Usually a 3-5 amp inline fuse for your fish finder, the same for your VHF. A 40 amp fuse or circuit breaker for your trolling motor. As Peter noted he has a 120 amp for his big old wumping stereo system.

Just take your time and make sure your conduits are large enough to handle enough wires for where they are going. Use electrical conduit 90's as they are larger sweeps.

Tom

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 10:57 pm
by Cracker Larry
I put a 50 amp in my OD18 and Rogerdogs GF18. 10 amps won't matter much either way. If you get a short in the major wiring, either will blow. You just want the breaker to blow before the wiring does, so size both accordingly, with a safety factor.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 1:07 pm
by Lower
You guys are great, I seriously appreciate the help. I know I will figure it out as I go, but just want to be sure I at least start with the right stuff.

So bear with me for one more post. Based on your feedback I plan to order

this add a battery kit: https://www.bluesea.com/products/7649/M ... _Kit_-_65A

and this breaker box: https://www.bluesea.com/products/5052/S ... gative_Bus

Go for it? Or would you recommend a different breaker box? I've been reading about them and trying to figure out which to go with. I know for sure I need a 6 position. Thanks guys.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 5:57 pm
by TomW1
Lower the Add a Battery kit is not a bad idea but Minnkota has a charger will charge a second or even a third battery when under way that I like even more. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Battery-C ... -Chargers/

I don't like the breaker box. You still nee to add breakers for each circuit. Much more expensive than a fuse and a fuse will seldom fail plus you can put the proper amp fuse n for each circuit. Take a look at this http://www.starmarinedepot.com/blue-sea ... panel.html they are available also with 4 and 6 circuit boards. They are available with Contura switches also which I believe CL uses.

Just something else for you to think about.

Tom

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sat Feb 13, 2016 11:35 pm
by Cracker Larry
The Add a Battery kit works very well to separate the house from cranking battery and keeping them equally charged.

I don't like that fuse panel either. In fact I've got one just like it still in the package if anyone wants it. You need a switch panel with a fuse or breaker for every circuit. Something like this...

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 5:01 pm
by wegcagle
I LOVE my add a battery kit 8) Like I said earlier, I can run all of my electronics all day with the trolling motor and have never even come close to emptying the house battery. It's exactly what I needed.

I used the 60A breaker as my main b/c the minnkota V2 55 12V trolling motor pulls up to a max of 55A at WOT, and I would be really annoyed if the breaker kicked everytime I attempted to run it WOT. Otherwise I probably wouldn't need 10A breaker total.

Spend some time on the wiring literature and wire selector from bluesea. It really helped me out in this process.

Will

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 8:35 pm
by Lower
Alright guys, I think its starting to make sense. I appreciate your patience as I try to wrap my head around this. I didn't realize that the switch panel that CL posted below had fuses built into them! I thought you had to run through some type of fuse block and then to the switches. I guess that would be another way of doing it. By the looks of wecagles wiring diagram that is how he did it.

I spent a bunch of time today on blue seas website. Between your help and that site I think I'm starting to get it.

So how is the trolling motor wired/protected. Do you wire it directly to the house battery and add protection in line?

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 9:36 pm
by wegcagle
Main positive wire goes from house battery to the 60A breaker. The 60A breaker has 2 individual positive wires exiting.

1. Non-TM positive wire. I ran one large gauge positive wire to a distribution panel in the console. Then, the individual wires from that panel run to each fuse/switch. Then, from fuse/switch panel to the individual electronic controlled by that switch. Then negative wire goes from the individual electronic to a negative bus bar (also located in the console), then finally a larger single negative wire runs from negative bus to the main boat ground (which I located in my battery compartment). The main ground point is grounded out to the batteries/outboard.

2. TM positive wire, runs through chase tubes from the battery compartment up to the bow mounted trolling motor (I installed a connector panel in the bow to keep the wires off the bottom of the bow compartment, and therefore out of the way). Then negative runs back to the main ground. (Yes, I spent WAY too much money on 35 feet of TM wire to run from back battery compartment all the way to the TM and back :help:).

Clear as mud :D :?: There's certainly PLENTY of correct ways, and even more incorrect ways. I'm sure my plan could've been installed a lot cleaner by those with more experience, but so far so good.

Will

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:41 am
by Cracker Larry
The trolling motor should have it's own fuse or breaker.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 10:39 am
by TomW1
The trolling motor must have its own breaker or fuse. Minnkota recommends a 40 amp one.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 4:34 pm
by Lower
GOT IT! It's clear to me now. Thanks for taking the time to help. I know it's simple basic stuff compared to some of the systems you guys have done, but hey you got to start somewhere. Heck, half the fun of this project is learning new things. I'm going to start pulling the pieces together. I'm sure I'll have some more questions. Thanks again guys.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 4:55 pm
by Cracker Larry
If you don't know this site, check them out. I buy almost all electrical components from them. http://www.genuinedealz.com/

Good prices, great service, fast shipping...and they will make custom cables cut to length, with whatever terminal ends you want.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 6:53 pm
by wegcagle
Just saw this and double checked my setup. I was wrong.

Sorry for the confusion: I have 2 breakers.

1. 60A dedicated to the TM
2. 60A dedicated to the rest.

Thanks for keeping me honest CL :D

Will

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 7:27 pm
by Cracker Larry
The install manual for the trolling motor should specify the breaker size and it will vary depending on the motor size, wire size and length of cable run. The 80 lb. thrust Minnkota IPilot 24V specified a 50 amp breaker IIRC. Obviously a smaller motor will require less.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 9:55 pm
by Lower
Thanks again guys. I'm going to be putting an order together here soon. CL...thanks for the link I'll definitely be using it. Wegcagle thanks again for helping out. I'm pretty much copying your set up as it's exactly what I had in mind. Still have awhile until I'll actually be doing the wiring but I want to start gathering the pieces. Fuel set up and console rigging next (gauges, steering, etc)!

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 12:42 pm
by Lower
Some big projects at work cutting into my fun time but am still managing to get a few things done here and there. Ordered everything I needed to build my fuel line (connectors, clamps, H20 separator, etc) and will be ordering my electrical supplies this week. Also need to order my steering cables, which I'll be doing my measurements on this week. I'll probably check in here before I order.

I spent some time over the weekend building a lexan windshield for the console. Working with this stuff was a first for me but with the help of the good old internet, figured it out. Cut to shape with a jigsaw and then cleaned it up on the table saw. Then jigged it up to do the bends. I needed to use 2 heat guns in order to get it to the temps needed to bend over. Have to be careful though as too much heat will bubble the lexan. All in all I think it came out pretty good.

Bending lexan using heat once cut to shape:

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 12:44 pm
by Lower
Finished:

Image

Clamped on:

Image

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 12:47 pm
by jacquesmm
Nice, thank you for posting that.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:34 am
by blueflood
Pretty slick work, Lower 8) The edge is flame polished ?

Marc

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 11:16 am
by willg
Agree, nicely done! Have you decided how you are going to mount it ? I ask b/c I have a sheet of Plexiglas I will bend just like yours and I'm going over mounting options. I have been thinking of using finish washers and wood screws, with rubber washers on each side of the glass. I thought that might be more low-profile than using these:

http://www.iboats.com/Boat-Windshield-F ... aQodrKoFSQ

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:01 pm
by Fuzz
Hope you do not mind me asking but how thick was the Lexan? That sure looks like a slick way of making a wind shield.
Fuzz

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:45 pm
by Lower
Thanks guys. Like I said this was new to me but if anyone is giving this a shot and has quesstions fire away. Happy to help if I can.

Blue flood--I read about it but haven't done it yet. I gave the edges a quick sand but need to finish them. Didn't know if I was going to keep sanding or try the flame polishing thing. Do you have any advise or tips for doing that?

Willg--I was thinking of bolting it on using washers as you indicated. Haven't really gotten that far but think that would work well.

Fuzz--ask away, it's what I do! I used 1/4". I originally planned for 1/8" but decided to go a bit thicker.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:48 pm
by Lower
Oh and one other thing I should have mentioned. I made a template out of cardboard first. Went through a couple iterations until it looked right. Secondly I did some trial cuts and bends on scrap lean. It's important to know where the bend occurs vs where you drew your line.

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Tue Mar 01, 2016 11:43 pm
by willg
Lower wrote: Blue flood--I read about it but haven't done it yet. I gave the edges a quick sand but need to finish them. Didn't know if I was going to keep sanding or try the flame polishing thing. Do you have any advise or tips for doing that?
Lower, I'm no expert (more precisely, I have zero experience), but you do NOT want to flame polish your polycarbonate. Check out this video from TAP Plastics. Based on their info I think you'd want to sand further then use a buffing wheel chucked in your drill. This is a good website to browse on subject of plastics. I am going to get a custom sized bait well cover from them some day.

http://www.tapplastics.com/product_info ... stic_edges

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 1:26 pm
by blueflood
Hi Lower,

Yes, sorry about that. Willg may be correct here. Some of these plastics are not particularly friendly with flame polishing, unlike Acrylic. They tend to bubble and burn. :oops:

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 5:53 pm
by Lower
No worries. I'm learning too. Thanks for the link willg. Looks like a lot of useful information.

So I measured for my steering cable last night. Used a garden hose and followed the directions on the sea star (teleflex) site. My measurement from center of wheel to midpoint of transom was 13' almost exact. So add 6" and round to nearest foot brings me to a 14' cable. Agreed?

Looking at the nfb safe-t 2 or the nfb 4.2. Thoughts? Does it matter?

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2016 8:27 pm
by willg
blueflood wrote:Hi Lower,

Yes, sorry about that. Willg may be correct here. Some of these plastics are not particularly friendly with flame polishing, unlike Acrylic. They tend to bubble and burn. :oops:
Blueflood, I definitely wasn't directing my post at you, I just didn't want to see Lower's windshield burn up like it did in the video.

I got acrylic sheet for my windshield a while back and I honestly don't remember what my thinking was. It should be fine but Lexan is more impact resistant and probably a better choice. Lower and I can do a side by side test...

Will

Re: Lower's FS17

Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2016 6:25 am
by blueflood
Hi Will,

Hey no worries :D I was thinking on using Lexan on my boat...now I know the do's and don'ts :wink:

Marc