What you want now is just to hold the wood together. You will follow up with a full size filet and glass tape that is rounded to give the fiber glass cloth a clean radius to curve around.
Tom
BassMunn's PH16 - SPLASHED!!!!
- chicagoross
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 1927
- Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2007 3:42 am
- Location: Guam, USA, middle of the Pacific Ocean
Hehehe, I've already started my epoxy coated driveway
Got the panels on last night and tack welded them today with a filleting paste. Now if the weather would be nice to me I could have actually started glassing tonight but it's still too cold, so I'll have to leave it till the morning. (so much for living in a sub tropical climate, OK so in 3 months I'll be complaining about how it never cools down, where never happy are we?)
I got my first batch of epoxy kick on me while still in a cup, this stuff gets hot and even smokes a little, luckily wasn't much.
Here's some updated pics
Got the panels on last night and tack welded them today with a filleting paste. Now if the weather would be nice to me I could have actually started glassing tonight but it's still too cold, so I'll have to leave it till the morning. (so much for living in a sub tropical climate, OK so in 3 months I'll be complaining about how it never cools down, where never happy are we?)
I got my first batch of epoxy kick on me while still in a cup, this stuff gets hot and even smokes a little, luckily wasn't much.
Here's some updated pics
- chicagoross
- * Bateau Builder *
- Posts: 1927
- Joined: Wed Aug 29, 2007 3:42 am
- Location: Guam, USA, middle of the Pacific Ocean
Update and a whole lot of questions for the experienced
Did all the filleting of the seems today, in the morning I'll sand the edges round and start the fibreglass seems. Did I ever say that waiting for epoxy to dry is very frustrating? Oh well suppose it gives you a chance to think up better ideas
OK, I have a whole bunch of questions
1. When adding strakes do you run the strake all the way to the end of the transom - I seem to remember reading somewhere on here that they need to end sooner?
2. Is it worth putting a pad into the back of the keel?
3. I can't decide if I need to completely finish the outer hull all the way to final paint before I flip it over. Should I flip after the high build primer or the fairing? It seems simpler to finish it completely first, but I'm concerned about getting slight warp in the hull when I flip and glass the stringers and bulkheads in. I don't want to spend all the time finishing the hull only to find that I have a hook or rocker once I finish the insides.
4. I want my hatches to have a completely flush fit, what do you guys do to seal a hatch like this. I was thinking of ordering some hatch lids from some one like BassPro, but with our exchange rate just dropping off the planet in this last week, if I order all the hatch lids I want they are going to cost me as much as all the Marine ply did for the boat
OK get typing already
Thanks
Shannon
Did all the filleting of the seems today, in the morning I'll sand the edges round and start the fibreglass seems. Did I ever say that waiting for epoxy to dry is very frustrating? Oh well suppose it gives you a chance to think up better ideas
OK, I have a whole bunch of questions
1. When adding strakes do you run the strake all the way to the end of the transom - I seem to remember reading somewhere on here that they need to end sooner?
2. Is it worth putting a pad into the back of the keel?
3. I can't decide if I need to completely finish the outer hull all the way to final paint before I flip it over. Should I flip after the high build primer or the fairing? It seems simpler to finish it completely first, but I'm concerned about getting slight warp in the hull when I flip and glass the stringers and bulkheads in. I don't want to spend all the time finishing the hull only to find that I have a hook or rocker once I finish the insides.
4. I want my hatches to have a completely flush fit, what do you guys do to seal a hatch like this. I was thinking of ordering some hatch lids from some one like BassPro, but with our exchange rate just dropping off the planet in this last week, if I order all the hatch lids I want they are going to cost me as much as all the Marine ply did for the boat
OK get typing already
Thanks
Shannon
- stickystuff
- * Bateau Builder - Expert *
- Posts: 2219
- Joined: Tue Aug 27, 2002 1:00 am
- Location: Crystal River, Fl.
- Location: Crystal River, Fl.
If your epoxy is kicking to fast for you go with a slow hardner. One important thing is you can't rush it. By this I mean wait until your fillets are dry enough on all seams before you take all zip ties loose. You do not want it to spring open on you. After all seams are hard, sand smooth then precoat all area with epoxy mix first. This will allow epoxy to penetrate the wood and seal it, also giving you a better base for your taping..I now have my PH 16 up for sale and is sitting on a local car dealer on consignment. With the economy the way it is I hope it will go fast.You will get plenty of help when you need it from all the board members. Good luck it is a great hull. By the way you don't need a pad. I did it because I thought it would make it run faster. I really don't think it makes any diff. A lot of extra work and material. Material is money. ??? Your call.
Capt. Ken Owens
A little saw dust, a little glue, and a lot of love, and she will float.
A little saw dust, a little glue, and a lot of love, and she will float.
Thanks for the advice Ken. I was thinking about putting in a pad but was also wondering about the effects of it. I know they use pads on the bass boats but they have a deeper vee hull. The Phantom has such a flat hull I wasn't sure if it would have made much of a difference.
Hope you sell your boat soon. What's next on the build list?
Hope you sell your boat soon. What's next on the build list?
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