G'day topwater, 0.5 mm seems to be just right for the depth of the cut.
First I champhered the wood at the cut to allow for some epoxy/glue powder mix ( personal choice ) then planed off one side and layed up with glass, after it was cured I then planed the other side followed by glue then the glass etc.
At this stage I do intend to do all the external joints this way and some of the internal butt joins.
OB17 Underway downunder.
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After fairing and sanding. Not a lot of fairing material required.
Last edited by sideslippa on Tue Mar 03, 2009 8:08 am, edited 1 time in total.
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- chicagoross
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That's the idea Chicagoross, Lets hope it works out that way. Some others have also done the same thing and say it saves time in the long run. I think it should be every bit as strong too. I have tried to break the test piece and it is incredibly stiff, I was not able to break it with out jumping on it.
Best regards... Steve.
Best regards... Steve.
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Looking awesome Steve. I had thought about recessing the butt joints too but Santa didn't bring my power plane until after all the outside joints were spliced and taped.
A few main things I learned about fairing
- use the best sandpaper available. boatbuilding time is precious and valuable too.
- don't be afraid of agressive grits (by the time I finished I was starting with 30 grit)
- don't flog a dead horse, feel the paper, if doesn't feel sharp, toss it.
- use a scraper instead of sanding wherever you can. not so much for fairing but for finish work, removing ridges, drips, and runs. Very fast, and no dust.
If I had followed my above advice, I could have saved 50% or better on my fairing time and been far less frustrated. Hope this helps.
A few main things I learned about fairing
- use the best sandpaper available. boatbuilding time is precious and valuable too.
- don't be afraid of agressive grits (by the time I finished I was starting with 30 grit)
- don't flog a dead horse, feel the paper, if doesn't feel sharp, toss it.
- use a scraper instead of sanding wherever you can. not so much for fairing but for finish work, removing ridges, drips, and runs. Very fast, and no dust.
If I had followed my above advice, I could have saved 50% or better on my fairing time and been far less frustrated. Hope this helps.
Last edited by Lucky_Louis on Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:40 am, edited 1 time in total.
OB17 Splashed June 2007
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