PH18 w/tunnel

[flyfishingmonk]

We were both having a stupid moment. I forgot it was a tunnel too, even with the name PH18 w/tunnel staring me in the face.

Larry suggested having it painted professionally, which seemed like a good idea too.

I'll ask Ken what he thinks.

Thanks,

Casey

[TomW]

I goofed to you guys! Don with the tunnel would of course not want the Skeg and would want the strakes out as far as they were as they were effective, probably 20". Don't know where he put them. The tunnel needs free flowing water.

Casey if you go without the Skeg you want steering strakes and close to the centerline. Keep them just above the keel and run them as far forward as you can. 6-12" from the keel will work fine. This along with your reverse chines will give you good steering control.

[stickystuff]

Some people just don't get it. Not going to get in a pissing match here. Let me try and explain something here. Flat bottom boats will slide from Fl. to alaska. A strake will help control the slideing. Center strakes keep the boat on an equal keel. I installed center strake or keel on PH 15 Tunnel Hull to keep straight direction when useing a push pole. Keel was only 1" x3/4" Stopped keel a foot forward of tunnel entrance. Keel was tapered back to 0.It was not tall enough to stop or slow down side slippage when turning. Do to a near but not fatal accident my customer requested adding some strakes to help curb the slideing. I calculated in my mind what would work and not interfear the water flow to tunnel. I added reverse strakes keeping a very sharp entry angle on the forward portion of strakes. After completion took it for a test ride and had absolutely no problems with water flow.reverse strakes allow hull to dig in to the water acting as a brake so to speak and keep it from slideing so much. Seems to me some people have absolutely no clue as to how a tunnel performs and the basics of makeing one work. I have contacted over the years one of the best tunnel experts on the raceing circuits. One of my best friends raced tunnel hulls all over the world and has a wealth of information . So ,I may not be the sharpest marble around but do have some I think, pretty good common sense as to how things work. It ain't rocket science.So before someone goes and fills peoples head on something I think he knows nothing about should just clam up and let nature take its course. Hell no!

[TomW]

Good points Ken, you stick to the tunnels, and I'll stick to the plain hulls. Are you still a dealer for PowerTech have a couple guys coming up that I need to prop there boats and if you get a % I'll go through you if there numbers indicate a PT is right for there boats.

[Uncle D]

You might go to the repair section of the forum and check out the strakes Cap'n Ken aka Stickystuff added to a ph-15. That boat had a tunnel and no skeg. I couldn't tell by the pics if it had a reverse chine or not but the report said after adding reverse strakes it turned really well. Ken could probably give an update

No pissin' contest here Cap'n Ken. Casey's inquiring about skeg and strakes along with shallow draft. I happen to see your post on adding strakes to a design we're building, especially me with a tunnel, and was just passing along good information. I don't pretend to know about tunnels and have never said so. Just the opposite actually because I have only gotten suggestions from Tim where I went to his gallery to get ideas from his design. Not trying to step on your toes and will still appreciate your advice.

Don

[stickystuff]

I don't deal with people I don't know especially from people out of town.

[flyfishingmonk]

I'm just looking for ideas and enjoy hearing the different opinions. As for the skeg. I wasn't wanting to totally eliminate it, just curious about shortening it a bit, as in the the distance it protrudes down into the water, and wondering if the sharp, relatively deep reverse chine, since it runs the length of the hull, would make up the difference.

I very much see the value in the words from those who have built the specific boat I am building. I greatly appreciate their time dedicated on the forum covering all the different topics, even after they have completed their hull and moved on with their fishing.

[stickystuff]

OK Got the picture. The skeg can be run from 1 ft. in front of tunnel to bow. Reverse strakes> Kind of hard to explain. First, is your hull still upside down?If so run a string line from center of bow all the way back to the stern. If tunnel is in place tack a stick,1x2 or whatever across the stern end of the tunnel. The strakes , first two need to be around 54" longThese are the two center strakes or inside strakes. Wherever the tunnel starts is the length of the first strakes. The two outside ones are 46". Now remember you have a left and a right.
If you can find the post and pictures of the Ph 15 , you will see the strakes before installation.I am guessing on the lengths for the Xf20.What I did was layout the first strake from the center line 16" to each side of center line. I used a chalk line and snapped a line on each side. Now from that line measure over 12" and snap another line. Now you have 4 chalk lines. Ver important that they are from center of tunnel.Next from the inside strake from the leading edge at the beginning of the tunnel make a 45 degree angle rearwards to stern. Make a mark on this angle where it intersects with the 12" strake. These are the starting points of your strakes.Confused yet? Now we are going to use the reverse strake. This means that the highest point of your strake is on the inside of your hull bottom.R emember the strakes are approx. 2-3/4 " wide +- You want them facing the tunnel. reason beingis when you make a sharp turn the hull will automatically lean to the turning side and you want these inside strakes grab the water which will eliminate most of the sliding.Thus two left and two right strakes. Now on your strakes from the front of each strake where it will be entering the water when you run you will want a very sharp entry point. I usually go from O on the hhigh side back anywhere from 6 to 8 ". Make a bevel cut at this angle . You need to bevel it so when you glass it it will be a smooth transition and not humped over it. You want to add these strakes after your hull bottom is glassed in.
Does not need to be faired yet. I used gel Magic to epoxy down.You can use some temporary drywall screws to hold them in place till epoxy sets up. Next 6" biax tape and epoxy them down. I suggest two layers for strength and a little bullet proofing. Fair them and rest of hull out and paint. Now when its all said and done make sure your trailer bunks don't sit on top of the strakes. adjust the bunks so they clear. Thats all their is to it. Easy HUH?

[stickystuff]

forgot to mention. strakes do not have to be made of foam. I just happened to have access to some. This foam is a high density foam not the blue or white cooler foam. You can use clear fir or clear white pine. 1X3. Set your table saw at an angle that will rip it down edge wise from 3/4" to zero. remember it is on edge not on the flat.

[Cracker Larry]

Here, let me help you out Ken http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=25674

The bad news is that some of your first pictures were in a gallery that I deleted The good news is that I had created a gallery just for your stuff that I didn't delete, so most of them are here