OB19 build in Texas - I accidentally deleted my gallery They're trying to restore.

[Lon]

"Used a coupler ..."
You might try just using a "to short " batten from one end of your panels (on your finishing nails) and trace your line as long as the batten.
Now, place the PVC batten on the other end of your panel and trace the line "backwards" to meet with the first line traced.
Werkedferme.

[wadestep]

Looks like you're making great progress - keep it up Congrats for getting underway.

[Steven]

Well, the rain abated some in the morning but was back this afternoon. Desperation or determination. I'm not sure which:



I got all the stringer blanks ripped on the table saw. Stil have to cut them to lengths to alternate the joints. Here's the first one off the saw:



I got the hull panels cut out. Here's a pic of the bottom panels. I took Lon's suggestion and used the 10' batten. Checked with 2 10's coupled togethe and all looked good.



And as I was finishing cutting out the side panels, UPS delivered a present. I don't remember this many boxes for the GV11. Looks like I'm on schedule to have the hull stitched and ready for fiberglaass weekend after next.




I started with 28 sheets of plywood and am down to 4 uncut.

[Steven]

I didn't plan on doing any work on my work days, but could resist getting my first smell of Epoxy. I like to glue the joints and then glass. This allows me to get the joints to my liking.

[Lucky_Louis]

Great build thread so far!

[TomW]

Steven, that is nice but I feel it is an unnecessary step. The gap betweeen the panels should be less than 1/32 while the fiberglass provides the strength for the panels. If the gap is more than 1/32-1/16 you have to start recalculating the distances of the panels and where the curves start. There is really no need to do what you did as long as you are careful with the splices. Have done a few and have not had any problems. You are really the first to do this, so whether you are a leader or someone wasting time is to be determined. In my opinion your wasting time.

Tom

[peter-curacao]

Steven, that is nice but I feel it is an unnecessary step. The gap betweeen the panels should be less than 1/32 while the fiberglass provides the strength for the panels. If the gap is more than 1/32-1/16 you have to start recalculating the distances of the panels and where the curves start. There is really no need to do what you did as long as you are careful with the splices. Have done a few and have not had any problems. You are really the first to do this, so whether you are a leader or someone wasting time is to be determined. In my opinion your wasting time.

Tom

I have to agree with Tom on this, unnecessary step, probably you have to sand the glue joint also before glass otherwise you could end up with air bubbles under it.
Your doing a great job but this is indeed not necessary serious

[Steven]

Thanks for the the input guys. Always welcome and I appreciate you checking out my build. There's only 4 hull panels to be spliced, so there's no appreciable time being added to the build. I like the results and the joints are gap free. Not normally what you do for an epoxy joint, but sufficient to hold the joints in place while I do the glass work.

[sideslippa]

Nice work there Steven, very neat and carefull. Your time is your own, spend as much as you like! Compared to the time it takes to do the fairing a few minutes extra on your glue joints is nothing.
I did a similar thing with my splices and also used an electric planer to take away some wood at the joint so that the final joint is level. It worked very well and surely helps with fairing. The joint is strong too, I tested a joint done this way to destuction and the failure occurred away from the joint. there are photos in my thread.

regards Sideslippa.

[Steven]

Nice work there Steven, very neat and carefull. Your time is your own, spend as much as you like! Compared to the time it takes to do the fairing a few minutes extra on your glue joints is nothing.
I did a similar thing with my splices and also used an electric planer to take away some wood at the joint so that the final joint is level. It worked very well and surely helps with fairing. The joint is strong too, I tested a joint done this way to destuction and the failure occurred away from the joint. there are photos in my thread.

regards Sideslippa.

Thanks. Your build looks great. I'm planning on recessing the tape around the transom edges and on the bottom panes where they tape to the transom. I don't have a power planer, but the router will suffice.