Boat Builder Central - Builder Forums

Posted: **Mon Sep 07, 2009 12:06 am**

Started my build today, though I haven't purchased the plywood or Epoxy yet. I'll be picking up the plywood in the coming days and ordering the Epoxy kit on the 15th. I picked up some OSB and cut out the temp frames. Tomorrow I'll cut out the bow mold and build the jig frame. It will be on wheels. My garage is about 19 1/2' long so it's going to be tight. Will do most of the work with the door open the boat rolled partially out.

The bottom frame is not as close to rectangular as it seems. The camera can really distort angles.

Posted: **Mon Sep 07, 2009 8:38 am**

Looking forward to watching an OB19 come together. Are you building it exactly as planned or a modified version?

Posted: **Mon Sep 07, 2009 9:20 am**

Good deal, another Texas thread

I used the castors on the frame thing too and it works well. The more $'s you spend on the casters the easier it rolls. Ain't that how it goes.

Says happy labor day Dougster

Posted: **Mon Sep 07, 2009 2:25 pm**

onemilehigh wrote:Looking forward to watching an OB19 come together. Are you building it exactly as planned or a modified version?

Still deciding on some of the details. It's gonna be a CC. Not decided on cooler seat with swing back or nice leaning post with cooler under it. Console will be ~30" wide. Seat in front with baitwell underneath. Will extend front deck and rear deck some for casting. Will decide how much for sure after getting the hull righted.

Posted: **Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:59 pm**

Built the rolling build jig. Ordered the Epoxy Kit. Hoping to head to Houston on friday to buy the plywood. I work a 4x10 so I have a lot of time to build each week. If I get the wood on Friday, I'll get the pieces cut out and some glued together(edit. No gluing afterall. Epoxy won't be here until next week. DUH) this weekend. I'll finish gluing up the pieces next week and have it stitched together in 3. I figure that will be about 70 hrs. labor. I'm shooting for a splash in under 6 months. Really want to be on the water for Spring Striper fishing. It's too windy on the big lakes for the GV11 to be comfortable and dry.

The GV11 is being sold and the OB19 is too big for the garage, so the wife will get to park her car in the garage as soon as this is done. She may be more motivated than me.

I'll add pictures at milestones instead of a complete step by step, as it will be hard to beat Larry's build thread for completeness. I'm also going to give advanced estimates for how long I think things will take, as above. Then we can all get a laugh at how ridiculous I am when it comes to optimistic time estimates.

Advice and suggestions welcome.

Posted: **Wed Sep 09, 2009 2:01 pm**

Good to hear there's another OB19 in the works - I've got the ply and epoxy already, but I'm going to be about 6 weeks behind your start date. (finishing restoring another boat).
Anyway, I wanted to put the livewell in the seat in front of the console also, like you mentioned. However, how are you going to run the pipes? especially the drain pipe?

I guess my question is: how are you going to get the well to drain and still have the overboard drain pipe/hole above water? For this reason alone I was planning on putting the livewell in the back - but the weight forward would be nice...

I'll get my thread going in 4 weeks or so, hopefully we can help each-other.

Posted: **Fri Sep 11, 2009 10:07 pm**

Took off with the wife to Houston at 11:30am for the plywood. Rained off and on the whole day and of course poured when we got home at 8:00 pm.

Sat for a bit until it slowed up. There's a boat in here somewhere. The GV11 is going to loose it's home tomorrow.

Posted: **Fri Sep 11, 2009 10:13 pm**

wadestep wrote: I guess my question is: how are you going to get the well to drain and still have the overboard drain pipe/hole above water? For this reason alone I was planning on putting the livewell in the back - but the weight forward would be nice...

I'll get my thread going in 4 weeks or so, hopefully we can help each-other.

Haven't given it much thought yet but it's doable. Lot's of boats have them. As long as the cockpit is above the water line, the water in the live well will drain. I will probably run a drain tube right under the cockpit floor and out the transom. A shut off valve at the transom. However, I've yet to research it so that may be a bad idea.

Look forward to seeing your build start.

Posted: **Sat Sep 12, 2009 10:24 pm**

Started cutting plywwod today. First thing I built a 4'x8' frame out of 2x4's which lay on my rolling table. So I have a waist height table for cutting the plywood on. It rained all day so I couldn't lay out the sides and bottoms. My garage is 19' long so I need to hang out the 3rd sheet of plywood for marking. Ugh!!! I also need the door open so I can rip the stringers on my Table Saw. Gonna rain tomorrow too. Double Ugh!!! I'd like to have everything cut out my Monday afternoon. UPS says my epoxy will be here on Tuesday.

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2009 12:39 am**

The rain has slowed me up but I've made some progress. I have everything cut out except the hull panels and stringers. I'll knock those out tomorrow and will be ready for glue. The hull panels can be cut two at a time, so I'll only measure and mark one side for the bottom and side panels. I'll stack and cut to get duplicates. I rearranged the garage to I'll have room to rip the stringer blanks. That will only take about 15 minutes. Shouldn't be too long a day.

Here's a view of the cockpit sole layout. Lowes or HD didn't have a 20' piece of PVC pipe. Used a coupler which was ok for the sole, but will not be fair enough for my liking for the hull panels. Tomorrow I'll go on a mission to find a 20' stick. I must say, I like using the PVC for a batten. I used a piece of 20' molding for the GV11. PVC is much more manageable.

]

Here's a pick of my rolling workbench with the 2x4 cutting frame on top.

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2009 2:25 am**

"Used a coupler ..."
You might try just using a "to short " batten from one end of your panels (on your finishing nails) and trace your line as long as the batten.
Now, place the PVC batten on the other end of your panel and trace the line "backwards" to meet with the first line traced.
Werkedferme.

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2009 12:54 pm**

Looks like you're making great progress - keep it up

Congrats for getting underway.

Posted: **Mon Sep 14, 2009 7:31 pm**

Well, the rain abated some in the morning but was back this afternoon. Desperation or determination. I'm not sure which:

I got all the stringer blanks ripped on the table saw. Stil have to cut them to lengths to alternate the joints. Here's the first one off the saw:

I got the hull panels cut out. Here's a pic of the bottom panels. I took Lon's suggestion and used the 10' batten. Checked with 2 10's coupled togethe and all looked good.

And as I was finishing cutting out the side panels, UPS delivered a present. I don't remember this many boxes for the GV11.

Looks like I'm on schedule to have the hull stitched and ready for fiberglaass weekend after next.

I started with 28 sheets of plywood and am down to 4 uncut.

Posted: **Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:15 pm**

I didn't plan on doing any work on my work days, but could resist getting my first smell of Epoxy. I like to glue the joints and then glass. This allows me to get the joints to my liking.

Posted: **Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:13 am**

Great build thread so far!

Posted: **Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:11 pm**

Steven, that is nice but I feel it is an unnecessary step. The gap betweeen the panels should be less than 1/32 while the fiberglass provides the strength for the panels. If the gap is more than 1/32-1/16 you have to start recalculating the distances of the panels and where the curves start. There is really no need to do what you did as long as you are careful with the splices. Have done a few and have not had any problems.

You are really the first to do this, so whether you are a leader or someone wasting time is to be determined.

In my opinion your wasting time.

Tom

Posted: **Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:48 pm**

TomW wrote:Steven, that is nice but I feel it is an unnecessary step. The gap betweeen the panels should be less than 1/32 while the fiberglass provides the strength for the panels. If the gap is more than 1/32-1/16 you have to start recalculating the distances of the panels and where the curves start. There is really no need to do what you did as long as you are careful with the splices. Have done a few and have not had any problems. You are really the first to do this, so whether you are a leader or someone wasting time is to be determined. In my opinion your wasting time.

Tom

I have to agree with Tom on this, unnecessary step, probably you have to sand the glue joint also before glass otherwise you could end up with air bubbles under it.
Your doing a great job but this is indeed not necessary serious

Posted: **Thu Sep 17, 2009 9:08 pm**

Thanks for the the input guys. Always welcome and I appreciate you checking out my build. There's only 4 hull panels to be spliced, so there's no appreciable time being added to the build. I like the results and the joints are gap free. Not normally what you do for an epoxy joint, but sufficient to hold the joints in place while I do the glass work.

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:22 am**

Nice work there Steven, very neat and carefull. Your time is your own, spend as much as you like! Compared to the time it takes to do the fairing a few minutes extra on your glue joints is nothing.
I did a similar thing with my splices and also used an electric planer to take away some wood at the joint so that the final joint is level. It worked very well and surely helps with fairing. The joint is strong too, I tested a joint done this way to destuction and the failure occurred away from the joint. there are photos in my thread.

regards Sideslippa.

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2009 1:45 pm**

sideslippa wrote:Nice work there Steven, very neat and carefull. Your time is your own, spend as much as you like! Compared to the time it takes to do the fairing a few minutes extra on your glue joints is nothing.
I did a similar thing with my splices and also used an electric planer to take away some wood at the joint so that the final joint is level. It worked very well and surely helps with fairing. The joint is strong too, I tested a joint done this way to destuction and the failure occurred away from the joint. there are photos in my thread.

regards Sideslippa.

Thanks. Your build looks great. I'm planning on recessing the tape around the transom edges and on the bottom panes where they tape to the transom. I don't have a power planer, but the router will suffice.

Posted: **Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:47 am**

Yep. The router will be perfect... a bit slower but perfect.

Posted: **Mon Sep 21, 2009 5:02 pm**

Got the side panels glued on Saturday. Didn't glue the joints first because I wanted to get them done that day. Got the Transom laminated and one stringer is laminated and curing. Will do the other three throughout the week. Only have enough weights to do one at a time. No pics as there's nothing much to see. I'm on track to have the hull stiched on the frame this weekend. I'll have some pics of that.

Posted: **Mon Sep 21, 2009 7:32 pm**

i'm a fan of the ob19
following closely ur build,. like the level of detail on documenting ur build
keep it up

looking for the stitching pics,.. IMO, tit's the most exciting when u first witness a transformation from a stack of ply into a boat:)

Posted: **Tue Sep 22, 2009 9:19 pm**

a_Adel wrote:i'm a fan of the ob19
following closely ur build,. like the level of detail on documenting ur build
keep it up
looking for the stitching pics,.. IMO, tit's the most exciting when u first witness a transformation from a stack of ply into a boat:)

Thanks. Here's a picture of the second stringer laminated. Notice the blue painters tape under the plastic to ensure a nice straight stringer. I also committed Stitch-N-Glue sin by using a pnuematic brad nailer along the top edge and bolttom edge of the straight portion. Holds everything in place nicely and they will be buried under the glue blocks for the sole and under the fillet for the stringer to hull lamination, so no need to worry about filling the tiny holes they leave.

Posted: **Tue Sep 22, 2009 9:26 pm**

Cool an epoxy conga line

tatatatata

Posted: **Tue Sep 22, 2009 10:32 pm**

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:23 am**

Nice work Steven and I like your tape line trick.

Daniel

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2009 8:41 am**

peter-curacao wrote:Cool an epoxy conga line tatatatata tatatatata

Or the electric slide.

Boogey wooogy wooogy

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:46 am**

unless brads are bronze you might want to dig them out and fill. Not too much trouble and
long term, it's hard to think of a worse place to have problems from corrosion/rot/splitting, than along the backbone of the boat....
Maybe this is too uptight an approach for you.
For some though, a half hour of work would pay off in years of having less worries about the structure.

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2009 5:13 pm**

bwd3 wrote:unless brads are bronze you might want to dig them out and fill. Not too much trouble and
long term, it's hard to think of a worse place to have problems from corrosion/rot/splitting, than along the backbone of the boat....
Maybe this is too uptight an approach for you.
For some though, a half hour of work would pay off in years of having less worries about the structure.

I wasn't planning on worrying about it for years.

They'll be deeply encapsulated and plywood doesn't split like hardwood. I just can't envision a scenario where they can be problematic.

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2009 5:23 pm**

In the application you describe, I agree completely Steven. The brads will be in place prior to encapsulation, then covered by fillet or cleat with more epoxy. No reason to remove, they won't cause any issues in our lifetimes. That said, most will also agree that using screws to clamp pieces temporarily then remove and fill is a better solution. Drill and pinning with a wood dowel is about the most elegant solution. They all work, some are just 'preferred'. I guess it depends on how much we value our time and where our priorities lie.

Posted: **Wed Sep 23, 2009 9:28 pm**

Lucky_Louis wrote:In the application you describe, I agree completely Steven. The brads will be in place prior to encapsulation, then covered by fillet or cleat with more epoxy. No reason to remove, they won't cause any issues in our lifetimes. That said, most will also agree that using screws to clamp pieces temporarily then remove and fill is a better solution. Drill and pinning with a wood dowel is about the most elegant solution. They all work, some are just 'preferred'. I guess it depends on how much we value our time and where our priorities lie.

Thanks. I prefer to use the most expedient methods that don't sacrifice quality. I used screws to clamp the transom. I thought about nailing the doublers to the frames where the cock pit glues down, but already decided against that. Not sure I would sufficiently fill/cover the tiny holes.

Thought I'd get the 3rd stringer glued tonight,but came home last night to a leaky washing machine. Had to put on a replacement pump tonight, and while at the parts store i picked up an add on filter for the refrigerator ice/water dispenser. The city water is getting poor.

I'll get the other two done the next two nights. That will leave me Saturday to install the frames on the strongback, and maybe start stitching. By Monday night I expect to have it taped and covered in cloth.

Posted: **Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:11 pm**

Got the stringers cut today. Glad to not find any voids. Glue up looks good. Got the uprights on the strongback set and base line marked with a water level. I started at the transom and first picked a height that won't be too high to work on, but still allow access underneath for stiching. Got to the bow station and found the height a little too low. The sheer slopes up relative to the Baseline (top of sole), so the bow mold is the tallest. A bit too tall. Since I'm using a temp mold for the bow station, I lopped off enough to get it down to the baseline marked on the frame. Tomorrow I'll get the frames mounted and should have it stiched. Maybe Monday if I decide not to work all day. I'll post pics tomorrow of the frames installed and then of an upside down boat.

Posted: **Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:47 pm**

Got the building frame completed. Threw up the bottome panels and found a boneheaded screw up. When i measured the bottome panels, I mis read the stern cut, so the outside corners are 2" short.

Now I have to cut off a foot or so and splice in a new piece to correct.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/userp ... re_019.jpg

Posted: **Mon Sep 28, 2009 1:05 pm**

found a boneheaded screw up

That's great. Seriously! Why? Because you learned that in S&G building, there's nothing a little glass, a liitle epoxy, and a little pondering can't solve. There's no bending in that area so the only down side is some more fairing or fussing. No sweat.

The mold looks great. I would think about laying another brace or two to lock down the tip of the bow mold so it can't flex left or right. Maybe a 2"x4" on the flat from the tip to the front corners of the strongback? That should clear the side panels.

Posted: **Mon Sep 28, 2009 1:49 pm**

I don't know about great, But it was easily fixed. I've got the bottom panels on and loosely stitched on the back half. Good suggestion on the brace. Thanks.

Posted: **Mon Sep 28, 2009 9:47 pm**

Here she is all stitched together. Everything lined up good.

Not much working room.

Posted: **Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:09 am**

Looks good. Very satisfying to see a boat form right in front of your eyes, isn't it?

I know it's probably your camera lens but keep an eye peeled on the fairness of your chine lines and the keel line. In the photo it looks like the transom is drooping. I recall having to fiddle a bit with the ties about 2' forward of the transom to get the OB17 to lay flat. A little piece of dowel in the gap can help when two pieces meet at an angle to stop one from trying to overlap the other. Now is time to get everything true and fair before locking in the hull shape with glue and tape.

Posted: **Tue Sep 29, 2009 12:36 pm**

Here she is all stitched together. Everything lined up good.

Something must be wrong. The way I remember it, stitching it together involves stitching, cutting out the stitches, restitching, cutting out the stitches, lots of swearing, throwing and kicking things. 3 or 4 hours later everything lines up good.

Looks good, and it looks like it didn't take you too many stitches.

Posted: **Tue Sep 29, 2009 12:41 pm**

smilinmatt wrote:
Here she is all stitched together. Everything lined up good.
Something must be wrong. The way I remember it, stitching it together involves stitching, cutting out the stitches, restitching, cutting out the stitches, lots of swearing, throwing and kicking things. 3 or 4 hours later everything lines up good.

Looks good, and it looks like it didn't take you too many stitches.

Not too many. Still have to add a few to the rear chines, but need to do a little trimming first. I had a hump in the bottom of the side panels. You can see it in the last picture. I noticed it after scribing them and rechecked the measurements. Came out ok so I assumed it would work itself out. I trimmed on the right side sparingly and got more aggressive on the left. The left is looking good. Gonna trim the same on the right and it's ready for glue. After negotiating the underbelly to duct tape the seems.

Posted: **Tue Sep 29, 2009 4:08 pm**

Looking good let the mixing begin

Posted: **Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:41 pm**

Spent a few hours trimming and shimming to get everything lined up to my liking. Glued between the stitches. Tomorrow morning I'll cut the stitches and glue the gaps. Sunday or Monday will be glass day.

Posted: **Sat Oct 03, 2009 9:52 pm**

Cut the stitches, pushed it outside and rounded over the edges. Thought I'd do the glass this weekend, but it will be raining tomorrow, so it will have to wait.

Next to the land barge for a little size perspective.

Posted: **Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:14 pm**

Getting close to Glass day. Doing one more check around to make sure everything is in order. Checking flatness of aft bottom panels. Found a problem on the port side bottom panel. Somehow, after checking and double checking, I managed to not get the the botom panel flat to the frames. There was a hump at the transom bulkhead from 1/3 way up from the chine down to the chine. I say 'was' because I sawed the hull side to bottom panel joint open from the transom 4' forward. The panel laid down flat with a little weight and I reglued the joint. So tomorrow I'll round over the joint and prep for a shoot through the hull transucer. Gonna rout a circular recess 6" in diameter 1/2 way through the hull panel. I'll glass it in with biax the night before I do the hull glassing. After the flip, I'll rout a 4" diameter hull just into the glass and fill it with biax and resin.

Posted: **Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:07 pm**

Can you explain more about what you're gonna do for the transducer? You plan on there being pure glass for the transducer to shoot through right?

edit: okay I get it now

I would be kinda scared to router that after the bottom's been painted. I cut the hole all the way through, put a temporary piece of backing covered in visqueen under it, and filled it in one shot. Maybe I'm missing something though?

Posted: **Fri Oct 09, 2009 2:26 pm**

Hey Fonda, don't worry, you're not missing anything. That's exactly how to do it. I only made the hole 2" in diameter and that's been plenty. Clean sounding to 600' at 25 knots. Not sure why Steven is making the hole so big and only going halfway through.

I just drilled the hole, duct taped across the inside of the hull, mixed up a cup of epoxy, and made up a mush of loose biaxial fibers until it was thick, and filled the hole in one shot. Ground it flat with Mr. Belt Sander, and glassed over normally.

Posted: **Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:20 pm**

I did mine just like LL, works like a champ

Posted: **Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:25 pm**

Fonda@kauai wrote:Can you explain more about what you're gonna do for the transducer? You plan on there being pure glass for the transducer to shoot through right?
edit: okay I get it now I would be kinda scared to router that after the bottom's been painted. I cut the hole all the way through, put a temporary piece of backing covered in visqueen under it, and filled it in one shot. Maybe I'm missing something though?

Well, my thinking was that I would end up with a glass filler that overlapped a recess in the ply. I planned on routing from the inside down to the glass I added in the bigger hole from the outside. The inner hole would be just big enough for transducer. Cleary, based on LL and CL replies I was way over thinking the problem. I will be taking the much simpler path of drilling and filling. Just got my order of glass fibers, so I'll mix up a mush.

LL, did you dam up and create a wedge that was level to the water line so the transducer is shooting straight down and not at the angle of the hull?

Posted: **Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:57 pm**

Since mine has a flat bottom, it obviously wasn't necessary, But that's how I would do it with a V hull. Just put a plastic collar around it, like a butter container, tape around the outside and pour some goo in it. If the boat is level, gravity will level the thickened resin.

You'd never get a good reading if your Xducer was shooting off to the side.

Posted: **Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:42 pm**

I cut a piece of 3" PVC, glued it to the hull. Poured in straight epoxy to get a level suface. Mounted the transducer about 1/8" above epoxy surface. Then I filled the well with mineral oil to completely submerge the transducer. Finally, capped the well and caulked around the cable.

Posted: **Fri Oct 09, 2009 5:46 pm**

You can also get a transducer with a tilted element inside if you know how many degrees the hull is where the transducer's going.

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:16 am**

I got the outside glassed today. Started at about 6 pm. Father inlaw, a.k.a Epoxy Mixer, came over at about 7:30. Finished up at about 11:30. A cold front came in yesterday so the temp was in the 50's. Made for nice easy work. No fire balls or melting cups.

Next on the schedule is adding the keel, strakes and spray rails. I'll add the keel tomorrow. Maybe do the spray rails on Monday. By the end of next weekend I'll start the fairing.

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2009 6:20 am**

Your flying! Doing all that wet on wet should save you a bucketload of fairing.
Got any pictures? I like pictures

Steve

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:20 am**

steve292 wrote:Your flying! Doing all that wet on wet should save you a bucketload of fairing.
Got any pictures? I like pictures
Steve

Ask and you shall receive. I can't imagine doing a larger boat. I'm 6'3 and it took all my reach to do the center. I'm thinking the inside will be interesting. Wet on wet is fantastic. Wish I had done that on my GV11. Your are right about the fairing. It would have taken a lot of time and sandpaper feathering the edges of the tape just to prep for the cloth. I couldn't have done wet on wet by myself. My Father-inlaw was feeding me 24oz batches. He'd have one ready about the time I'd get the previous one worked in. The lamination looks good. It stayed in teh 50's overnight, so it's still green, but setting up nicely. I did the GV with medium hardner, so wasn't sure what to expect with the slow.

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2009 11:51 am**

Looking great

is there a reason you didn't glass under the rubrail, or am I seeing it wrong?

Posted: **Sun Oct 11, 2009 12:55 pm**

peter-curacao wrote:Looking great is there a reason you didn't glass under the rubrail, or am I seeing it wrong?

Thanks. When I laid it out dry and cut it, I cut it at the edge of the panel. Didn't end up there when I laid it on wet.

Posted: **Tue Oct 13, 2009 2:53 pm**

Good session! Technically, it's boat now, 'cause you could flip and float

24oz batches, wow! I never went over 8, even with slow hardener.

Posted: **Tue Oct 13, 2009 3:13 pm**

Lucky_Louis wrote:Good session! Technically, it's boat now, 'cause you could flip and float

24oz batches, wow! I never went over 8, even with slow hardener.

We started with 12, but that doesn't go real far on the Biax. With the temps in the mid 50's, it worked real well. wouldn't have tried it if it had been warmer.

Posted: **Thu Oct 15, 2009 9:34 pm**

Went over the hull with the sander and smoothed the transition on the side cloth where I'll be adding the side glass. Cut it and all is ready to glass. Will be doing it either tomorrow night or Saturday morning. Hope to get the keel, strakes and spray rails on this weekend. Maybe a first layer of rub rail also. Might be a bit optimistic, but this is the first rain free weekend we've had since I've started the build, which is not the norm down here.

Posted: **Sat Oct 17, 2009 11:15 pm**

Got the sides glassed and the keel glued on. I kept the keel 1' from the transom to reduce the disturbed water to the prop . I'll add strakes after leveling the bottom. Tomorrow I'll start on the spray rails and rubrail.

Posted: **Sun Oct 18, 2009 2:48 am**

Nice work Steve

I like the way you put the glass along the sides, instead of trying to fill a half round, much neater.
steve

Posted: **Sun Oct 18, 2009 8:43 am**

great job

Posted: **Sun Oct 18, 2009 9:06 am**

Steven, did you get the drilling template?

Posted: **Sun Oct 18, 2009 3:31 pm**

Cracker Larry wrote:Steven, did you get the drilling template?

Larry,

I sure did. Yesterday. Sorry, meant to email you last night. Outstanding job. You made it too easy for me. Much appreciated.

Steve,
Thanks. I decided it would be easier to fair that way.

Peter,

Thanks.

I'm in the process of adding the rub rail now. Just took a break for some chow. Bought some 1 1/8" x 3/8" trim molding. Just about the limit of what can be bent around the bow. Came in 13' sections. I'll have it glued on and some pics tonight. Also pickd up some quarter round to use for the spray rail. Thought about making some triangluar pieces in a mold, but decided these would be just as effective.

Posted: **Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:06 pm**

Got the rubrail glued on. After flipping I'll add a 3/4" x 3/4" sheer clamp for added glue surface for the side decks. I don't want the rubrail to stand any more proud then 3/8". I also screwed on dams on the side and transom for sharpening up the edges. I needed a flat surface and straight line for the spray rails on the back 2/3', so I did the transom as well. I had a learning lesson. I decided to add some chopped fiber to the filler on the edges. Mistake. Impossible to spread cleanly. So I only filled the the gap partially with it and then topped off with wood flour mix.

Posted: **Mon Oct 19, 2009 6:05 pm**

I got the spray rails attached today. Used a 12" surform to shape the edges of the chine and transom. Found a cool sanding long block at Harbor Freight for $10. It's a dense nerf like foam with a thin steel sole. Very comfortable.

I will plane the rails down to nothing at the bow.

I ran the rails long and will trim.

Posted: **Mon Oct 19, 2009 6:28 pm**

Nice

Tom

Posted: **Sat Oct 24, 2009 10:14 pm**

Let the fairing begin. Layed down the first weave fill coat today. Epoxy and blend filler applied with an 8" squeegee.

Posted: **Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:46 pm**

After a sanding session with RO and some long boarding, and then some more fairing mix and all longboard. Sanded one side today. Will do the other throughout the week. Ordered 3qt. of quickfair. Should be ready for primer after the coming weekend. I used a mixed of West 410 and Blended filler on the bottom panels. Trying to stretch what I have on hand. The side is QuickFair. Man I love the Quickfair. I had a qt. which I've used most of on the sides, and then on the bottom tonight. It just goes on so nicely. Though I have to fight the urge to overwork it.

Posted: **Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:08 pm**

Man Steven that garage sure is clean. You doing all of your sanding outside?

Looking good. You're rolling right along.

Posted: **Mon Oct 26, 2009 11:23 pm**

Murry wrote:Man Steven that garage sure is clean. You doing all of your sanding outside?

Looking good. You're rolling right along.

Thanks. I rolled it out to do the initial sanding to knock off the selvage threads, but found the wind kept the dust in my eyes, so it's all inside now. The 6" RO has a vacuum attacment that works fairly well. The long board doesn't put much in the air. Plus I vacuum after every 3' or so of sanding. Helps control the dust and makes the sanding more effective. If there's a lot of dust, it acts like ball bearings. Working on a clean surface makes the sanding go much faster. But the big trick is the clean up after a sanding session. I vacuum up and then open the garage door, hook the vaccum hose to the outlet port and blow all the dust that is left out the door.

Posted: **Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:51 pm**

I ordered a gallon of System 3 Yacht primer and some Graphite. I will get the bottom faired, primed and coated in epoxy graphite over this coming weekend and next week. I'm going to fair and paint the sides and transom after flipping. I need to cut the transom down some and I may take a few inches off the sheer. Lot's of wind down here and this thing has some tall sides. I'll be able to judge better when it's right side up. I also want to fair the sides after the frames are in to make them more solid for sanding against. I also like painting the sides and transom with the boat upright because doesn't doesn't settle on the sides due to the slope.

Posted: **Tue Nov 10, 2009 9:40 pm**

No new pictures, but progress is being made. Still fairing so nothing interesting to see. Would be ready for primer, but after inital weave fill and fairing coat with Quick Fair, found a 1/8" dip on both sides from transom 5' forward. Decided to fix it, which cost me a weekend with drying times factored in. Today I put on last leveling coat to fix the dip, and put on final major coating on the side panel. Should only have some minor filling to do after this next sanding. Should have it prepped for primer this coming weekend. Will let it set a week to cure and then prim the following weeding. Then will graphite the bottom and flip. Really anxious to get it turned over and start working on the guts.

Posted: **Sat Nov 21, 2009 11:24 am**

Hey Steve,
Great job so far, very nice work.
I'm ready to glass my P19 bottom but I just want to order what it will take to do the bottom for now, do you know how many yards you used to this point? I already have the fiberglass tape.

Thanks
Joe H

Posted: **Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:19 pm**

Joe H wrote:Hey Steve,
Great job so far, very nice work.
I'm ready to glass my P19 bottom but I just want to order what it will take to do the bottom for now, do you know how many yards you used to this point? I already have the fiberglass tape.

Thanks
Joe H

Thanks. I didn't measure the lengths of the pieces so this is a guesstimate. The bottom takes 2 pieces of 50" approx. 21' long when you account for the transom. I also split about a 17' long piece in half to cover the remaining part of the sides that didn't get covered by the overlap. So for the entire outside I'd estimate 18-20 yds. The kit comes with 27 I think. The intent is to use scrap cuttoffs to fill in the outsides where the overlap didn't reach. I didn't want do to that piecework with the 6" overlaps and additional fairing. So I ordered another 7 yds., which came yesterday, so I'll have 2 full pieces for the inside. On the inside you only put cloth on the bottom with the overlap up the sides. Not sure if the P19 has the same lamination schedule, but I'm sure it's close.

Posted: **Sat Nov 21, 2009 12:49 pm**

Thanks Steve,
Looks like I'll have to order 2 ten yard rolls.
Keep up the documentation, your thread has been a good source of information.

Joe H

Posted: **Sat Nov 21, 2009 4:55 pm**

Steven, I am ejoying watching you progress. You are pretty much at the same stage as me, with my OB15 Build. Your build looks great. I have some irregularities ( small sags), in my hull that I hope the fairing will smooth out. Will you be using System Three Paint for your OB 19? Mike

Posted: **Sat Nov 21, 2009 8:19 pm**

prowlerblue wrote:Steven, I am ejoying watching you progress. You are pretty much at the same stage as me, with my OB15 Build. Your build looks great. I have some irregularities ( small sags), in my hull that I hope the fairing will smooth out. Will you be using System Three Paint for your OB 19? Mike

Thanks. Small sags seem to be inevitable. They'll fair out. I've not decided on System 3 or Sterling. I already have a gallon of S3 Yacht Primer. It should be ready for primer by Tuesday afternoon. I'll let it set this week for the epoxy to be fully cured and then I'll paint next weekend.

Posted: **Tue Nov 24, 2009 6:46 pm**

Here it is ready for paint. I'm going to paint the botoom and down the sides about 6" with primer and then epoxy/graphite the bottom. I need to cut the transom down and still haven't decided on if I will leave the sheer as is or lower it. I want to see it right side up before deciding. I applied two coats of epoxy to the spray rails and skeg yesterday and sanded today. Hit everything to be painted with the 6" RO with 80 grit. Will use the small square RO to sand right along the spray rail before painting. Will only take 10 minutes. Had to fight the urge to paint this evening. It's been 30 hours since the last coat of epoxy, but it's cool and I want to be sure it's good and cured.

Posted: **Tue Nov 24, 2009 9:05 pm**

Good job on the fairing, a few coats of primer and she'll be slick

Posted: **Wed Nov 25, 2009 11:35 pm**

Priming has begun. I'm very pleased with the fairing. Just a few pin holes and one area on an extra overlap where I sanded into the glass a bit. Need to smooth it a bit more. I mixed up just the right amount for what I wanted to prime. Sometimes it's better to be luck then good.

I used 6" white foam rollers. Would like to use a bigger roller for the next coats with a bit more nap to put it on thicker. Gonna post a question for suggestions in the paint forum.

Posted: **Thu Nov 26, 2009 11:08 pm**

After 2 coats.

Posted: **Fri Nov 27, 2009 7:28 am**

She's looking really good Steven. You can tell you spent alot of time fairing. Just curious, why are you only putting primer on the bottom? Why not the whole boat?

Will

Posted: **Fri Nov 27, 2009 1:02 pm**

wegcagle wrote:She's looking really good Steven. You can tell you spent alot of time fairing. Just curious, why are you only putting primer on the bottom? Why not the whole boat?

Will

Thanks Will. I've been following your thread. Looking real good. I may cut the sides down after flipping. Also the dimensions in the plans for the transom cut out were wrong. So it needs to be cut down some more. The 2x4's holdidng the motorwell sides to the transom are in the way so I can't cut it while upside down. I'm putting graphite on the bottom, and will flip. Also, painting the sides while right side up gives a better result. I did that on my GV11 too. With the slope of the sides, almost no dust can settle on the sides while the paint is curing. Plus, space is tight and I'm a bit ham fisted. I'm sure to ding the sides while finishing out the inside.

Posted: **Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:09 pm**

She's looking great Steven.

Posted: **Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:57 pm**

Murry wrote:She's looking great Steven.

Thanks. I got the primer sanded today. Next weekend I'm applying the Epoxy/Graphite and then flipping the following weekend. I'm ready to get working on the inside. :0

Posted: **Wed Dec 02, 2009 8:26 am**

I'm sure to ding the sides while finishing out the inside.

Excellent thinking

That sure looks good, the chines really turned out nice

Posted: **Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:34 pm**

Cracker Larry wrote:
I'm sure to ding the sides while finishing out the inside.
Excellent thinking That sure looks good, the chines really turned out nice

Thanks CL. I used the same 3/4 round on the GV11 and was happy other than I didn't take it far enough forward. Not making that mistake again.

Posted: **Wed Dec 02, 2009 6:40 pm**

Hey Steven,

I also screwed on dams on the side and transom for sharpening up the edges. I needed a flat surface and straight line for the spray rails on the back 2/3', so I did the transom as well

Did you put anything on the inside of the dams to stop the epoxy from sticking to them?

Joe H

Posted: **Thu Dec 03, 2009 11:21 am**

Joe H wrote:Hey Steven,
I also screwed on dams on the side and transom for sharpening up the edges. I needed a flat surface and straight line for the spray rails on the back 2/3', so I did the transom as well
Did you put anything on the inside of the dams to stop the epoxy from sticking to them?

Joe H

Hi Joe,

I taped them over with Packing tape. Packing tape is great. I used to use cardboard for disposable palets to put quickfair on as I worked spreading it over the needed areas. Kinda like a painters palet. I now have a dedicated 8"x8" 1/4" thick palet covered with packing tape. I just give it a wipe down with an acetone wetted paper towell when done working. The acetone doesn't seem to bother the tape.

Posted: **Thu Dec 03, 2009 4:45 pm**

Stephen your doing a really nice job on your build! Can't wait to see what you decide on whether you cut her down once you flip.

Tom

Posted: **Thu Dec 03, 2009 5:03 pm**

TomW wrote:Stephen your doing a really nice job on your build! Can't wait to see what you decide on whether you cut her down once you flip.

Tom

Thanks Thom.

I'm thinking about taking it down 4". That is still plenty of freeboard for the kiddos and the lakes I'll mostly frequent. It will also remove about 6.6 square feet of wind catching sail. Plus I think It will look better proportioned to my eye. Can't wait to get it flipped. Hoping to do graphite this weekend, but cold weather has finally arrived. Gonna have to see if I can maintain enough warmth in the garage. Want to apply one coat a morning, 3 mornings in a row. This will let the warmer day weather help out some.

Posted: **Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:01 pm**

Put the first coat of Epoxy/Graphite on today. First batch went on well. Then the problems began. I thought I could do it all with one batch. I didn't have any paint tray liners, so after the first batch, I mixed one and just poured and rolled. Not nearly as nice as with the pan. Finished up anyway figuring a little sanding and another coat, using tray liners would do it. Well, after getting done, I have hundreds of tiny fish eyes. Ugh!!! I wiped down the boat twice with Isopropyl alclohol. Wiped the tray down. Wiped the containers out I used to mix. Even wiped down the new 7" paint roller I used for the West brand Epoxy rated roller covers. After scratching my head, the only thing I completely forgot to clean was the brand new mechanical sifter I bought and used to sift the Graphite. Bonehead move of the day. So I'm about to order a new batch of graphite, since the remaining is supect #1. Gonna set me back a week which is aggravating, but as long as I have it flipped by Christmas, I'll be on schedule. I'm taking the week of and plan to have all of the under sole structure done that week.

Here is a pic of the fish eyes. Nice white circles. The little specs are dust.

Looks good from 3 feet.

Posted: **Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:53 pm**

Sorry about the fish eyes. Other than that sure looks good. I'm hoping to start my graphite by Christmas.
You might want to try a small batch of that graphite on a different surface and see if it fish eyes? Might not be the grahite???

Posted: **Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:01 pm**

Larry B wrote:Sorry about the fish eyes. Other than that sure looks good. I'm hoping to start my graphite by Christmas.
You might want to try a small batch of that graphite on a different surface and see if it fish eyes? Might not be the grahite???

I plan on doing a test after this batch cures to confirm. I went ahead and ordered some more just in case. It's cheap and I can always use it on my next build. It's a sickness, but I really want to build a TX18

The OB's for the family.

It could have also come from the blues rags in a box I used. Very heavy paper towells. Maybe they have something in them that caused it. I'll use plain white P. towells next attempt.

Posted: **Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:33 pm**

C itbgkyt,hujyunbgtjyh A jn.ku//N ktnb N fdddvmt,yyjukj,mnhjT see !!!!!

that's bright

Posted: **Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:40 am**

I never use paper towels for wiping down. Just about every paper towel formulation leaves some kind of residue, often just lint, but other stuff seems to lurk in some of them. The best luck that I've had is with the white cloth wiping rags sold at Lowe's or old T-shirts. Knit cotton has longer fibers and doesn't need binders like the short cellulose fibers in paper. I think that is what makes the difference.

Posted: **Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:01 pm**

Dupe see below.

Posted: **Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:02 pm**

I agree with Gary old T-shirts or purchased soft clothes that are not treated or old bed sheets are best. Paper towels can be treated with absorbatants and other chemicals.

Tom

Posted: **Mon Dec 07, 2009 12:23 pm**

Thanks guys. Good advice. I'll switch to cloth. I'll go pick up some today from Lowes.

GK, Do you launder them before using?

Posted: **Mon Dec 07, 2009 1:23 pm**

I do Stephen. No soap just water then into the dryer to remove more lint. I might after there dry even run them two or three times more through the dryer without heat to remove as much lint as possible. Hasn't failed me in 30 years.

Tom

Posted: **Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:39 pm**

Got the problems solved, I think. Except for the dust. Like a mine field for all the dust on it. But it's smooth and no more fish eyes. Camera has gone on the fritz and pictures are dull, but I'm very pleased with the results.

Posted: **Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:43 pm**

Looks great Stephen! Need the shades for that.

Tom

Posted: **Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:44 pm**

That looks slick. I guess we forgot to tell you that the other purpose of putting graphite on your hull is to purify the air by drawing all dust particles out of it. Sorta like an electrostatic filter only different.

Posted: **Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:19 pm**

Sure looks good. I'm wondering how you avoided all those little nibs I kept getting? I recall just sifting once, and maybe should have done more. Anyway, that looks great so congratulations.

Dunno how you did it Dougster

Posted: **Wed Dec 09, 2009 7:27 am**

Dougster wrote:Sure looks good. I'm wondering how you avoided all those little nibs I kept getting? I recall just sifting once, and maybe should have done more. Anyway, that looks great so congratulations.

Dunno how you did it Dougster

I sifted twice. Maybe your thread that prompted that.

Once into a clean ziplock and then a second time into another clean zip lock. I used the West System Rollers, and some 6" dense white foam rollers. The first coat I only used the West roller, but its square edge didn't get into the corer where the bottom and skeg meet, or onto the bottom of the spray rails well. I tried brushing these areas with a foam brush with poor results. Couldn't apply a nice even thickness coat. The white rollers have a round end that pushes right into the recesses, applying a nice coat. Now I have to figure out how to keep the dust out of the final coat. My garage is my wood shop, so dust abounds in every crack and crevice. Guess I'm gonna staple up some cheap plastic over as much as possible and lay it out on the floor surrounding the boat. That should help a bit.

Posted: **Wed Dec 09, 2009 10:56 am**

[quote="Steven] Now I have to figure out how to keep the dust out of the final coat. My garage is my wood shop, so dust abounds in every crack and crevice. Guess I'm gonna staple up some cheap plastic over as much as possible and lay it out on the floor surrounding the boat. That should help a bit.[/quote]

How about damping down the area just before you start. If you use a fine spray it'll take a lot of dust out of the air.
I had to keep reminding myself it was the bottom, & no one will see a few dust specks.

steve

Posted: **Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:18 am**

steve292 wrote:[

If I could flip it by myself so nobody would see, I'd be less concerned.

Seriously though, it's a bit too much for my liking. I'm going to drape plastic over every thing .That will reduce it considerably. Watering the floor is good too. I did that when I painted the GV11 and it seemed to help. When I do the paint finish paint on this one, I'm completely emptying the garage for a good scrubbing. Every thing will be blown off outside with the compressor and plastic will be put up from ceiling to floor in paint area. Just can't go to that extreme for the bottom.

Posted: **Mon Dec 14, 2009 6:22 pm**

So I made a booth out of plastic hung from strings strung around the boat. Wetted the floor with water, and kept it damp during the coating. Results: Dust in the epoxy.

That shiny black just shows every fleck. So I put on a final coat today and decided the sooner I flip it and stop seeing the dust, the sooner it will stop aggravating me.

So, next weekend will hopefully be the big flip, weather permitting.

Posted: **Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:51 pm**

Today was the big day. I built the main cradle yesterday. Today I rolled it outside to prep. I notched the clamping boards for the stringers, so lifting the stern straight up wasn't an option. So I removed the motor well sides to begin releasing the hull from the mold. I figured I could probably prop up the bow and slide the stringers forward to make the lift easier. I decide to jack up the stern a bit to make this easier, and it occurred to me I could just jack up the boat and deconstruct the frame right under the boat. Worked like a charm. The boat was left sitting on two jack stands at the stern corners and a shop stool at the bow. The flip went well. It tipped onto the cradle in a semi controlled fashion. Could have used one more hand in the middle to help slow the decent, but the cradle tipped up and it settled down gently. I have to level it. check for twist and add some more supports on the front.

Cradle:

The Flip

Posted: **Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:13 pm**

Congrads on the flip Steven, man that hull looks huge with the kids in there.
Looking good!

Joe H

Posted: **Tue Dec 22, 2009 9:23 pm**

Joe H wrote:Congrads on the flip Steven, man that hull looks huge with the kids in there.
Looking good!

Joe H

Thanks Joe. It IS huge. The scale increases tremendously after flipping.

Posted: **Thu Dec 24, 2009 6:03 pm**

Today I used criscrossed strings to take out the twist and then added additional bracing. The strings just touch at the intersection. I also decide to add braces to the floor. I'm going to leave it in this position until I get the internal framing done.

It was 72 degrees yesterday. This is what we woke up to this morning.

Posted: **Thu Dec 24, 2009 8:30 pm**

Gotta love texas! Dont like the weather, just wait a few hours.I wish it would snow here, my kids would love it.The boats looking good by the way.

Posted: **Sat Dec 26, 2009 11:45 pm**

Turned the heaters on at 6:30am and started prepping about 7:30am. Father inlaw showed up at 10:30am and we finished at 10:15pm. One long day. Glued my pants to my knees. Not an unpainful removal. But, the result was worth the work.

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 5:19 am**

Nice work

. That was the hardest glassing to do on my hull, especially the bit in the bow. I like the bracing idea as well.
Steve

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:41 am**

Looks real good Steven, I can't wait until I get to that point.

Joe H

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:49 am**

That looks great---a big job for sure. We had the same snow in Dallas, where I was at my brother-in-law's for Christmas. Glued your pants to your knees? Coulda been lots worse

Says congratulations on the flip, tape, and glass effort Dougster

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:50 am**

Steven wrote:Glued my pants to my knees.

Who says boat building isn't entertaining.

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 4:37 pm**

Looking good. You're almost ready to start glassing in the stringers and frames - time to get a good chiropractor.

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 5:28 pm**

smilinmatt wrote:Looking good. You're almost ready to start glassing in the stringers and frames - time to get a good chiropractor.

Stringers and frames are next. I already need a good chiropractor after yesterday. The worse of it though are my big toes.

They're both still semi numb from crouching so much. I only have a gallon of epoxy left so I'm going to glue the stringers in place and wait for the 3 gallon order to arrive. Not sure the gallon will be enough to get all the tape down. I'll go as far as I can. Screwed up there. I'm off all week and didn't take inventory of what was remaing. Planned to have all the stringers and frames in this week. But I doubt the order will arrive before the end of the week. Since I'll have some free time, I'm going to cut out my console and get it ready for assembly.

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 5:35 pm**

Joe H wrote:Looks real good Steven, I can't wait until I get to that point.

Joe H

It was a heck of a job. Next time I'll do all the sanding and whole filing prep in advance. That added several hours to the day that I could have done without. I crawled around in that thing for 15 hours.

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 5:55 pm**

Steven,
Sorry for the stupid question but if you did wet on wet what kind of sanding and hole filling did you have to do, I just want to be prepared when I do get there.

Joe H

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:48 pm**

Joe H wrote:Steven,
Sorry for the stupid question but if you did wet on wet what kind of sanding and hole filling did you have to do, I just want to be prepared when I do get there.

Joe H

There were holes from were I attached the spray rail, the skeg and from the stitching. I filled them from the outside, but you have to clean up the squeeze out and fill any spots you find that need it. You also have to grind/chip out any excessive squeeze through along the chine and keel joints. Anything that needed additional filling I did as I layed down the fillets. There is also residue from the duct tape that I applied to the inside seams. Needed to be cleaned up in some areas. Once the clean up was done, I precut all the glass. Total time to do all of this up to the beginning of laying fillets was probably 4 1/2 hours. It would have much better to do all of this on a prior day.

Posted: **Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:53 pm**

Thanks Steven,
I'll plan on a day for clean up.

Joe H

Posted: **Mon Jan 11, 2010 10:31 pm**

Spent the day glassing in the stringers. Worked from the area between the center stringer, so the inboard side of each center stringer is left to do. I pre-wet the tape. Makes it so much easier. I put 1/4" ply covered with poly over two stringers and used as a platform to do the glass wetting. Did one side and then moved the platform to the other side. I wet out one piece of tape, layed the second on top offsett by a couple inches and then rolled up the whole mess. Then just rolled it out. Took some pictures but the gallery upload doesn't seem to be working.

Posted: **Mon Feb 08, 2010 8:48 pm**

Been a while since an update. The stringers and frames are glassed in. Started gluing on cleats today. Layed them out and coated them with a roller and then spread the glue with a notched trowell. Did this on a plastic covert piece of plywood and then screwed them into place while the glue dries.

Posted: **Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:39 am**

Good morning Steven,
Very nice job on the stringers & Cleats, I noticed the cleats do not look like marine ply, I take it that should be okay as long as they are coated with epoxy? I have some left over 1/2 marine ply but not 3/4, sure would save a little coin if I could just buy a sheet of 3/4" good quality regular ply.

I'll be there soon.

Joe H

Posted: **Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:55 am**

Joe, for the cleats you can use good quality directional lumber. What I did was take 2x4x8 untreated southern yellow pine and ripped it down the middle (width) and ripped the length into 1/3s so that I basically ended up with 3/4" x1" strips. Cut them to size and coat them good with at least 2 layers of epoxy.

Lookin' good Stephen,

Will

Posted: **Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:55 am**

I did the same as will. Bought some 8' 1x4 and ripped into 3 pieces. The boards were only a couple bucks a piece.

Posted: **Tue Feb 09, 2010 11:53 am**

Thanks guys,
Come to think of it I have some what I think is 3/4" left over from when I cut my strakes & chine out of 2X4"s, I'll measure when I get home, if I get home tonight, I'm at work 55 miles south of where I live and we are getting hit with some major snow right now.

Joe H

Posted: **Tue Feb 09, 2010 9:35 pm**

Clamping of cleats on sides worked out. Initially I thought about using a thin stick sprung between the stringer cleat to the cleat being glued to the side. But, with the slope of the side I figured it would want to slide up. This method applys the clamping force perpindicular to the face of the cleat and doesn't cause the cleat to walk up.

Posted: **Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:55 am**

Nice

Will

Posted: **Mon Feb 22, 2010 6:10 pm**

Making progress forward with the cleats on the sides. Tedious and finicky clamping.

Putting int glue cleats and frames for the subfloor where the gas tank will live.

Posted: **Tue Feb 23, 2010 3:42 pm**

Clamps off and with fuel tank deck resting in place. The cleats have all been planed flush with the top plane of the stringers. The chisel is very hand and capable of surprising control and accuracy if kept sharp.

Posted: **Tue Feb 23, 2010 4:26 pm**

Looks great

So, how's your back feeling today

Posted: **Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:38 pm**

Great looking work Steven! You'll find that the build starts being more fun now that ALL those cleats are done

Another way to locate and support those pesky curved cleats against the side is to temporarily screw scrap boards like a 1"x3" on the flat across the stringers to locate the height, apply the glue to the cleat or hull, squish in to place, and temporily screw to the scrap board. Make sense?

Before you get absorbed in chase tubes, foaming etc. make sure that you've epoxy sealed all faces of the frames and stringers while they're still easy to get at (not like some guy who shall remain nameless

)

Thanks for the update.

Posted: **Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:44 pm**

Cracker Larry wrote:Looks great So, how's your back feeling today

Thank you sir. Not feeling too bad. Been sitting boards accross the stringers to give me a seat. What gets me is the narrow space between the stringers. With the cleats glues on, the foot can catch and if your not careful a severe ankle twist or break is possilbe. Been very careful with that.

I have laid in some blood though. When the plane or chisel slips, there's lots of rough glass waiting to remove layers of skin. Cleaned off one knuckle to day.

Posted: **Tue Feb 23, 2010 5:49 pm**

Lucky_Louis wrote:Great looking work Steven! You'll find that the build starts being more fun now that ALL those cleats are done

Another way to locate and support those pesky curved cleats against the side is to temporarily screw scrap boards like a 1"x3" on the flat across the stringers to locate the height, apply the glue to the cleat or hull, squish in to place, and temporily screw to the scrap board. Make sense?

Before you get absorbed in chase tubes, foaming etc. make sure that you've epoxy sealed all faces of the frames and stringers while they're still easy to get at (not like some guy who shall remain nameless )

Thanks for the update.

Thank you. Makes perfect sense. The clamping has gone surprisingly well. The pressure is perpindicular so the cleats don't have a tendance to 'walk'. Just a bit tedious and definately and un-fun part of the build.

Good tip. Once I layout and drill the chase tube holes, I'm having a session of epoxy coating and hole filling.
I had one panic moment after gluing on a couple cleats. The small triangluar areas in front still needed some coating under the existing cleats. After gluing on the last one I realized I forgot to do that. After I planed them down, I can still get to them. Whew!!!!!

Posted: **Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:33 pm**

Steven your work looks great. I was beginning to wonder if you were going to get some more pictures posted. Guess your weather has been worse than ours in FL. I used to say I could put on enough clothes to stay warm; but, not take enough off to be legally cool. This winter has changed my mind. Have you decided whether to cut the sides down yet? cottontop

Posted: **Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:55 pm**

cottontop wrote:Steven your work looks great. I was beginning to wonder if you were going to get some more pictures posted. Guess your weather has been worse than ours in FL. I used to say I could put on enough clothes to stay warm; but, not take enough off to be legally cool. This winter has changed my mind. Have you decided whether to cut the sides down yet? cottontop

Thanks. It was snowing today as I took those pics.

Weather has been crazy. We've actually had a 'real' winter. I can heat the garge up ok, but it's hard on the electric bill.

I'm going to leave the sheer as designed. I marked a straight sheer with a laser level, and decided I like the look as designed.

Posted: **Tue Mar 09, 2010 8:14 pm**

Got the chase tubes installed. Working around 4 stringers is a royal pain. On the down shot where the console will be, you can see too lines on the frame with a big arrows pointing inward. That is the outside location of the console. Will be 32" wide. Now just need to coat everything below deck, fill some screw holes and foam.

Posted: **Thu Mar 11, 2010 9:48 am**

Hi Steven,

great job so far! I've been building my OB19 June 08 through July 09. What I have seen on your pictures is that you obviously used the original measures for the transom. In October 08 I received an email from Bateau about a plan correction. See below.

We are advising purchasers of our OB19 plans that some plans show a
wrong dimension for the transom cut.

The wrong dimension is on sheet D228/4 in the lower right corner. It
shows 1-11-1/2" (or 595 mm) but it should be 20-3/4" (527 mm).

Not sure if this applies to Europe only but I believe the outboard engine dimensions are the same world wide. 20-3/4" is the height you need for a long shaft engine.

Hope this helps.

Greetings from Germany,
Andreas

Posted: **Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:42 am**

Hi Andreas,

Thanks and good eye. I became aware of the descrepency after I had already assembled the hull. I'm considering leaving it as is and going with a 25" shaft. More sea worthy, and frankly, I don't care for the looks of the deeper cutout with the motor so recessed. Still deciding though. Do you have a gallery with pictures of your build?

Regards,
Steven

Posted: **Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:43 pm**

Steven,

yes I do have a gallery. Just added a few more pictures that friends have taken last summer. But the boat you are gonna see may look a little different from what you are about to build. I have changed the interior to my personal taste. It is more like a bow rider style fun boat and therefore no longer suitable for fishing

.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1020

I have lots more and will post them if there is demand. For example details of the motorwell area and so on. If you want to see something in particular just let me know.

Enjoy,
Andreas

Posted: **Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:51 pm**

Good looking pipes. Now the real fun begins. John

Posted: **Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:52 pm**

athen wrote:Steven,

yes I do have a gallery. Just added a few more pictures that friends have taken last summer. But the boat you are gonna see may look a little different from what you are about to build. I have changed the interior to my personal taste. It is more like a bow rider style fun boat and therefore no longer suitable for fishing .

http://gallery.bateau2.com/thumbnails.php?album=1020

I have lots more and will post them if there is demand. For example details of the motorwell area and so on. If you want to see something in particular just let me know.

Enjoy,
Andreas

Very nice work, Andreas. Don't know how I missed your gallery. I'd fish from that in a heart beat.

I'll sure be pulling tubes, skies and whatever behind my fishing boat.

Posted: **Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:08 am**

Don't know how I missed your gallery.

The album was not visible to the public as I did not manage to change the view mode from Me Only to Public when the gallery was created in summer 2009. The point is that the website will not allow you to change the view mode as long as there is a password entered in the password box. And I did not even try to delete the PWD as I thought it was obsolete when switching to public view mode

. And just 2 days ago when logged in again I just deleted the PWD and - surprise - its working now as expected.
Hope the temperatures over there are already in a range you can start working in the boat again. Can't wait to see more pictures of the next building steps. Keep us in the loop

.
Thanks,
Andreas

Posted: **Fri Mar 12, 2010 1:49 pm**

Steven,
I don't think the 23.5" transom on the original plans is the correct height for a 25" shaft - I think it was simply a typo. I cut down my transom with a jigsaw before fairing and priming. It was easy to do, and it probably looks better than if it had been built to the proper height to begin with.

I haven't had any water coming over the transom, and I've had it out in some pretty sloppy conditions.

Transom cut down to 20-3/4":

Posted: **Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:39 am**

I don't think the 23.5" transom on the original plans is the correct height for a 25" shaft - I think it was simply a typo. I cut down my transom with a jigsaw before fairing and priming. It was easy to do, and it probably looks better than if it had been built to the proper height to begin with.

Steven,
I absolutely agree with smilinmatt. And I really hated to cut the transom at this point because it appeared to get difficult to keep a jigsaw aligned under that angle but at the end it was not too difficult. Also I added another 12mm plywood inside the motorwell in order to avoid tons of washers when mounting the engine. The bolts that were delivered with the engine were not threaded up to the head.

Regards,
Andreas

Posted: **Sat Mar 13, 2010 11:37 am**

Thanks guys. I planned to doublecheck that dimension as I wasn't sure if it was for a 25" shaft or not. I left the outer transom mostly unfaired in case I decided to cut it down.

A couple questions.

1) Motor well sides. Did you take them all the way to the hull bottom or glue the sole to the stringers and then tab to the sole? I assume they should go to the hull bottom. On the stringer side it looks pretty difficult to tape since there isn't much room between the stringer and the motorwell side. I've considered a glue cleat there.

2) Is the full depth, fore and aft, of the motor well requred for full tilt. I'd like to put an 8" wide "deck" across to make a step for moving back and forth. I could glue cleats in the well for a removable deck to rest on after the motor is trimmed down as an option, but would rather it be permanent.

Posted: **Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:55 pm**

Stephen the motorwell sides definately go all the way to the bottom as they are structural and taped to the transom and bottom and both sides were taped to Frame E. I hadn't looked at my plans lately, but I see what you mean about not having much room between it and the stringer, 2-3" will make it difficult to tape that side. Yikes

If it was me I would consider widening the motorwell and gluing those suckers to the stringers and then tape everything together. Since there are instructions on the site here for widening the transom for twin engines widening 5" is no big deal. Maybe Matt will see this and tell you what he did.

As far as the motor tilt it depends on the motor some take more than others, as the manufacturers are putting some slant on the forward part of the head for pazazz.

You might get by with it as the motor could slip underneath it before reaching it's full tilt position.

Tom

Posted: **Sat Mar 13, 2010 2:21 pm**

Definately won't be widening the motor well. That will eat into the standing room on both sides. It's narrow. A 1 1/2" tube fills the space from stringer to motor well side, so its just a tad under 2". To narrow for me to get my hands down there to glass. I'll wait for Matt or Andreas to chime in. I'm sure they will. I'm leaning towards a removable deck over the motor well. I can make it deeper from more room that way.

Posted: **Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:39 pm**

Steven,
the motor well sides go down to the bottom of the hull. To tell you the truth I can barely remember whether I really put the tape in there or not. But anyway.... better don't modify the spec.
A good technique for cases like that is to cut the biax tape, fold it 90° so the horizontal part of the tape fits into the gap. Use a paintbrush to apply the resin to the bottom and let the folded tape slide in. Now use a cleat or whatever to push the tape down to the bottom. You can carefully pour some more resin on the tape so if will be saturated at the end. I used a long Japanese spatula to squeeze the air bubbles out. Once the resin starts curing and the tape will remain in its position you can apply the resin to the vertical part of the tape to glue it to the motor well sides (again using the Japanese spatula).
An 8" panel across the motor well directly behind station E should not be a problem. But you should better check the documentation of your engine. There is usually drawings that show the required workspace in both the horizontal and vertical plane. It's better to really know than to guess or to believe

.

Hope I got you right. If not just let me know.

Andreas

Posted: **Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:51 pm**

The distance between stringer and motorwell side on my panga was three inches. Do-able, but a pain. Two inches is tight

athen's suggestion is good, if it were me I'd probably wet the tape out first, then tuck it in there and use a crude/barely effective tool to smooth it out

Maybe one of the mrs. rubber spatulas?

Posted: **Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:00 pm**

Got the Motorwell sides in. What a pain. Also cut down the transom to the proper dimension for a 20" shaft. Screwed a board to the oustide of the transom for a guide. Plunged cut with the circular saw for the straight portion and used a jigsaw for the radius.

It's a little tight between the stringer and the motorwell side. Laying the fillet was a big pain.

Posted: **Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:42 am**

Knew you'd figure out a way to get the tape in there

Posted: **Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:52 pm**

Did a final fitting of the sole in anticipation of getting the foam done. Foam should be here for the weekend. I cut the sole panels from the dimensions in the plans. Have been a bit concerned with how they would fit. As it turns out, the fit is very good with only a couple of gaps. Feels great to walk on a flat surface. Also gave me a chance to finalize my plans. Definatley going with a leaning post. Probably won't launch with one, as I have varying ideas of exactly what I want and want to use it a bit before deciding. But there will be plenty of room. Tons of room in this thing. Mockups are for footprint. Haven't decided fully on the console. Trying to decide if I will build in a seat in front of the console or go with a cooler seat.

Posted: **Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:03 pm**

Looks real good Steven! Good idea with the mockup of the console and such. I did multiple layouts of my console and seat to get the right fit and thought long and hard before the install.

I must have sat in the boat, walked around the console and seat area every night for about 2 weeks before I was satisfied with the layout. I walked around it with a fishing pole a few times to just to make sure.

Posted: **Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:34 pm**

kdog wrote:Looks real good Steven! Good idea with the mockup of the console and such. I did multiple layouts of my console and seat to get the right fit and thought long and hard before the install.

I must have sat in the boat, walked around the console and seat area every night for about 2 weeks before I was satisfied with the layout. I walked around it with a fishing pole a few times to just to make sure.

Thanks John. You can see my seating position in the back of the boat on the blue cushion. Sat there for probably an hour yesterday just pondering.

Posted: **Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:31 pm**

Let the Foam begin. Just about done. Some trimming and topping off. Except behind the motor well bulkhead. Gonna have to order a bit more. Volume always is decieving, and I didn't do the math. I have about 36 cubic feet in place, give or take a few for variance in expansion. A bit of overkill. Probably should have just done the outer cavities and saved about 40 lbs. of weight, but can't be too careful. I kept the two foam parts heated to about 100 degrees with a portable heater. No worries about not getting full expansion, and no time to rest. I'm posting a video of the procedure on YouTube. I'll update with a link when I get it done.

My little one popping bubbles.

Posted: **Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:35 pm**

Steven, that is a good looking foam job. Very clean work

btw, did you know child labor is Illegal

Remember when mine were that age

Now I've got a dog with a broken leg to help me

But I love him

Posted: **Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:44 pm**

Wow. You did a really good job pouring that foam!

Posted: **Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:07 pm**

Thanks Guys. Much appreciated. I tried Larry's method of placing a plastic faced board over the pour, but even with 2 5 gallon buckets of water, it raised a bit. Plus I was concerned I was constricting the expansion some, and with as much as I needed to foam, I needed all the expansion I could get. I have a 2"x24" bow saw blade that is extremely flexible and fine toothed. Flush cutting with it is a breeze, so I just went with it. I placed offcuts in fresh pours. After cutting the remaining work flush, I'll use the offcuts behind the motor well bulkhead. Probably need one 2 gallon kit to complete. I also foamed under the Anchor well bottom. Cool stuff.

Posted: **Tue Mar 23, 2010 11:22 pm**

Steven wrote:Thanks Guys. Much appreciated. I tried Larry's method of placing a plastic faced board over the pour, but even with 2 5 gallon buckets of water, it raised a bit. Plus I was concerned I was constricting the expansion some, and with as much as I needed to foam, I needed all the expansion I could get. I have a 2"x24" bow saw blade that is extremely flexible and fine toothed. Flush cutting with it is a breeze, so I just went with it. I placed offcuts in fresh pours. After cutting the remaining work flush, I'll use the offcuts behind the motor well bulkhead. Probably need one 2 gallon kit to complete. I also foamed under the Anchor well bottom. Cool stuff.

I was also concerned about the expansion rate

I was working in low 60's also. I'm thinking I could have saved at least a gallon if the temp would have been higher.
The bow saw sounds like the ticket. The other way I found was to use my sander with 60 grit. It will take it down very fast. I never had a problem with it raising the wood, but I was only pouring about 10oz at a time.
Your foam does look great though

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 9:38 am**

Here's a video on YouTube of my foam pour. Repeat about 40 times and you've poured 40 cubic feet of the stuff. You can see the portable heater behind the containers keeping it +100 degrees. I had the garage heated to about 80. Reminded how nice it's been to work in the cool of winter, even if it's slowed me down a bit. Of course, the heat made it necessary to work quickly once combined.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0LZcZXu68Q&NR=1

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 10:02 am**

Steve, again, what a nice clean job. Well done. But your alot braver than me. I pour equal ammounts in two cups. Then carry both cups to the location of pour

pour one into the other and stir (really fast) Pour and watch the magic happen

Or put my cover on and a block on top of that and hope the magic happens

But I'll tell you what is more exciting than pouring foam, and thats when you cover it up and don't have to look at anymore

Posted: **Wed Mar 24, 2010 11:07 am**

Larry B wrote:Steve, again, what a nice clean job. Well done. But your alot braver than me. I pour equal ammounts in two cups. Then carry both cups to the location of pour pour one into the other and stir (really fast) Pour and watch the magic happen Or put my cover on and a block on top of that and hope the magic happens But I'll tell you what is more exciting than pouring foam, and thats when you cover it up and don't have to look at anymore

I only had one pour get a little out of hand. I moved the ladder to the front to saw some excess from under the anchor locker. Poured a large batch intending to put it in the rear of the boat. First problem was my drill battery died just as I finished mixing the previous batch and I forgot to swap it out. Got about two revolutions and panic sets in as I"m trying to mix 24 oz. with a stick. Second problem is I forgot to move the ladder to the back of the boat. I run forward, kick the ladder a few feet forward to were I can barely step over the bow and dump as it is overflowing the cup at an increasing alarming rate. Only got a little on my gloved hand and it was plenty warm.

Can't wait to get it covered.

Posted: **Thu Mar 25, 2010 2:43 pm**

After wasting time prepping the below deck area for the fuel tank, I've had a change of heart. I say 'heart' because it's based more on feeling then anything else. I've been procrastinating on ordering it because i just wasn't convinced it was the right solution. Nagging doubts about it being so shallow, only 5 1/2". Worry about installing it in a way that would prevent any possiblility of crevice corrosion. Concerns with the aluminum holding up long term to newer fuel blends. Having to route the pick up tube internally to the back of the tank preventing future replacement of the pick up tube. Ok, maybe more then just a feeling.

With a plastic tank, the only real concern for me is the space it will take up under the front deck. But, after having the sole down and looking things over, I will still have plenty of stowage. Plus, I'll be able to have a workable sending unit, which, the more I thought about it the more I wanted it. So, I just odered this from Amazon. $203 shipped and it will be here on Saturday.

Posted: **Sun Mar 28, 2010 1:02 am**

Steven,

What size tank is that? I'm looking for something like that.

Posted: **Sun Mar 28, 2010 10:33 am**

Boater45 wrote:Steven,

What size tank is that? I'm looking for something like that.

It's by Moeller Marine www.moellermarine.com

23 Gallon Permanent Fuel Tank
•Conforms to all ABYC, NMMA and U.S. Coast Guard regulations.
•Available with CE certification.
Product # 032623
Product Dimension: 24.00L x 20.00W x 12.00H

Posted: **Mon Mar 29, 2010 12:07 pm**

Thanks Steven....

Posted: **Mon Mar 29, 2010 9:52 pm**

Took a little break from boat building today to do some console building.

This is modified off of what CrackerLarry did. Tapered it side to side and front to back vertically. Looking down it is square. Thinking about tapering it forward. From the side of the console to the sheer is a min 29". So I'll have over 20" with the side decks added. The front corners at sole level are 20" from the side. Tapering it would get me 2 extra inches clearance, and I think it would look a little nicer. Overall I'm very pleased with the design and looks in the boat. It 'fits'.

Note the extra slot. Was going to have a more veritcal upper face, but after standing it up, decided I wouldn't be able to see the gauges easily. Made the slope match the lower slope where the steering wheel and throttle will go.

Posted: **Tue Mar 30, 2010 7:27 am**

Lookin gooood Steven! What is the blue tape around the outside near the rubrail for? Keep up the good work. John

Posted: **Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:50 am**

cottontop wrote:Lookin gooood Steven! What is the blue tape around the outside near the rubrail for? Keep up the good work. John

Thanks John,

I was considering cutting a straight sheer and marked it from a laser level with the blue tape. Decided the designed sheer looked better.

Steven

Posted: **Tue Mar 30, 2010 10:47 am**

Hull looks great and the console sits in there perfectly. Nicely done Steven.

Posted: **Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:31 pm**

Got the sole panels cut for the chases and ready to glue down. I'll have them glued in this weekend.

Looking into the console. It will be shifted forward so the steering chase is in the rear right corner. I think I'll reduce the width of the console an inch and taper it to ther front an inch on each side. I'll have a nice flat suface above the steering wheel slope for drings and such. I'll add some small trim at the front and on the sides to hold things in place.

Posted: **Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:52 pm**

That looks great Steven

Good proportions. That console shape looks familiar too. Are you sure you don't want to add a seat on the front though? My console seat is the best seat, and best ride in the house

Lot's of storage underneath, just a thought....

One question...

'll have a nice flat suface above the steering wheel slope for drings and such.

What's a dring

Posted: **Thu Apr 01, 2010 6:08 am**

I'll have a nice flat suface above the steering wheel slope for drings and such

"No sir, I haven't had anythink to dring all day."

Posted: **Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:00 am**

Cracker Larry wrote:That looks great Steven Good proportions. That console shape looks familiar too. Are you sure you don't want to add a seat on the front though? My console seat is the best seat, and best ride in the house Lot's of storage underneath, just a thought....

One question...

'll have a nice flat suface above the steering wheel slope for drings and such.
What's a dring

I'm going to use a cooler seat in front of the console. I like the flexibility of being able to free up the space if needed. It will be a lunch/dring

cooler or dry storage, depending on what I'm doing. Another cooler will go under the leaning post for the fishies. I'll add a shelf inside the console at the bottom of the steering wheel slope. Batteries will go underneath that and I"ll have a flush mount battery switch on the front of the console on the vertical face under the steering slope. Going to have a starter battery, and two for a 24v trolling motor. Tool box and spare parts will go there as well. I'll have large hatches on the back of the console and side of the console for access to the console rigging.

Posted: **Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:46 pm**

Got the sole glued in. Probably used twice as much glue as needed, but, it ain't coming loose.

Notice the oversized hole for the port chase. Managed to mark the panel wrong.

I have a few new 5 gal. buckets in my arsenal.

Posted: **Tue Apr 06, 2010 4:02 pm**

Looks good, like your inventive idea of clamping down the sides....dont have to use very many (if any) screws that way.

Im near dallas, glad spring is finally here!

Posted: **Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:18 pm**

Thanks. I didn't use any screws on the outer perimiter. I used screws at the joints for the butt blocks and on the outer stringers. Being careful not to overtighten.

Posted: **Tue Apr 06, 2010 5:44 pm**

What a great idea to clamp down the sole......no screws......I love it!! Great build. Thanks for the posts.

Will

Posted: **Mon Apr 12, 2010 11:29 pm**

Got the sole glassed down and the casting deck frame glued in place. Gotta order some more epoxy.

I cut the side deck supports with the frame so as to avoid the cracking Larry has on his OD. Also filled in the cut out on the front bow frame as I changed my mind on the front deck configuration.

Posted: **Mon Apr 12, 2010 11:35 pm**

Steven wrote:Got the sole glassed down and the casting deck frame glued in place. Gotta order some more epoxy. I didn't pre-wet the glass tape for the sole. Mistake. It is a huge pain to wet out the tape in place. I know better. Takes much more time, time spent on my knees as opposed to standing while pre-wetting.

I cut the side deck supports with the frame so as to avoid the cracking Larry has on his OD. Also filled in the cut out on the front bow frame as I changed my mind on the front deck configuration.

Posted: **Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:02 am**

Looks great Steven, you do very clean fiberglass work

I did the same thing when I glued down my sole. Those clamps worked like a charm. After I glued mine down I probably spent 20-30min the next day just jumping up and down and walking the sole to try to find any weak/unglued spots. Good news was that there were not weak spots. Bad news was that my legs were sore the next day

She's coming together nicely,

Will

Posted: **Sun Apr 18, 2010 8:05 pm**

Since I only have littl epoxy left, and my order won't arrive til Wednesday, I did some cut out work.

Mis-cut the the sides of the casting deck. Kiddos were running loose and distracting me. Looked at drawing and read the measurement 71 3/4 and then walked to the plywood and marked 71 1/4" . Ugh. Would have fit perfectly. Oh well. Just a little more waste of epoxy to fill the gap.

Posted: **Mon Apr 19, 2010 2:03 pm**

To save some material, you could go back to your scrap from that cut and rip another 1/2" from it to fill most of the gap. The tape and fillet will cover the whole 'repair' anyway. Don't ask how I knew that...

Posted: **Mon Apr 19, 2010 8:00 pm**

Lucky_Louis wrote:To save some material, you could go back to your scrap from that cut and rip another 1/2" from it to fill most of the gap. The tape and fillet will cover the whole 'repair' anyway. Don't ask how I knew that...

That is the plan. Just aggravating when I so carefully measured and marked, only to screw it up. If only this were the first one.

Posted: **Tue Apr 20, 2010 9:40 pm**

While waiting on my order I got some of the side frames glued in and the rest in place waiting for glue. Once Glued in, I'll glass them all.

I used some 1/4" luan and 1/2" brads to hold the farmes in place. They're held in place snug enough to glue with no clamps.

My order showed up today. More epoxy and some 50" 6oz. cloth for the inside. This weekend I'll finish the glassing and coating inside the casting deck and will be ready to install the tank and button down the deck. Time to order some hatches.

Posted: **Thu May 27, 2010 10:29 pm**

Heres' a couple updated photos. Got the sole glassed, the side deck frames glassed in, and I'm about ready to install the fuel tank.

Posted: **Fri May 28, 2010 2:11 am**

looking good guy.

Posted: **Fri May 28, 2010 7:54 am**

Like your method for holding the braces while gluing. Wish I'd seen that last year. Your really getting there now!

Posted: **Fri May 28, 2010 8:42 am**

Eveything looks so shinny and new in your garage and build! Very nice work.

Joe

Posted: **Sat Jul 31, 2010 1:25 pm**

The build continues. Had to slow down a bit due to family vacation to Disney and my daughters spine surgery. Got the Fuel tank glued down with 5200 on Neoprene strips. Made two brakets out of 1x2 pine and some angle aluminum that go across the top of the tank kind of like a battery hold down. They will not press down hard as to allow for expansion. Put a fairing coat in the front stowage compartment and it's ready for a sanding and paint. Fiberglassed both inner sides with 6oz. cloth. I'm just about ready to glue down the front casting deck and anchor locker dec. Have to get the casting deck down before I can install the side decks. I'm going to fair and prime the inner sides before putting on the side decks. Will be much easier to access now. Once that's done, the side decks go on. I fiberglassed the inside seams of the console sides. Next for that is to install 1x1 for the top panels to glue down too. Then glass the outside seams. Using 12oz. Biax in case I ever decide to attach a T-Top too it.

September 6th. will be a year. I planned to be ready for Motor hanging by Sept. 15th. Bonus time.

Probably be the end of October before the Hull is done. I'll have some updated pictures this weekend.

Posted: **Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:24 am**

Got the Fuel Tank install complete. Put a small bit of foam in the front corners for a little extra security.

Also sanded the inner sides. Tomorrow I'll put on the first fairing mix. Quick fair won't be here till the weekend.

Posted: **Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:30 am**

That looks good Steven! I like the hold down arrangement

Posted: **Tue Aug 03, 2010 7:24 am**

Nice job Steven. That baby isn't moving!

Posted: **Tue Aug 03, 2010 5:41 pm**

Thanks guys. Tried to leave as much access for service as I could. Not sure how the sending unit is configured. I think there's enough room to wiggle it out if I have too. If it goes south and I can't, it wouldn't be too much trouble to install a round deck plate at the time of repair.

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