Joe's P19 RE-LAUNCH

[Fonda@kauai]

The bottom appears to be missing a piece of tape where the bottom panels are joined. You need a piece of tape on both sides when you join long panels, one side is under tension, the other compression. Looks good

[tech_support]

you have it right, I was just confirming that and also offering an explanation why the splice should be on the outside

[Doc_Dyer]

I believe that they are talking about the area circled in red

[Joe H]

Thanks Joel,
Yep, you guys are right I put the fiberglass on the wrong side on that 1 bottom panel, it is on the other side so I didn't think it would make a difference, I'll throw another piece of fiberglass on the outside before I glass the whole thing, just to be sure!

Joe H

[Joe H]

Quick update,

I finished gluing the outer panels together and everything fit together pretty good, the bottom and side are extremely fair but I still have to tape and glass.



However at the front or bow of the upper panels I ended up with a gap of just over an inch, I don't think this should be to much of a problem, I'll glue, woodflour & epoxy, it together and glass over it.



I'll be ordering some tape and glass next weekend when my financier releases some $$.

Joe H

[ericsil]

That hull looks really great. The gap is nothing to worry about. It just leaves enough room for the fairing compound to make a nice shape on the bow. After 9 layers of tape and epoxy you will never know it was there.
Have you made sure the bow is pulled back as tight toward the stern as it should be? It is a surprisingly hard bend to get the curvature as designed. Cut out the bow deck panel if you need a template. Otherwise you will have some droop at the bow, like many of the boats in this forum, including mine.

[Joe H]

Thanks Eric,
I've got enough drooping going on without my boat drooping! I'm not sure on how I could use the bow deck to check for droop, wouldn't the frames be in the way? I used the bow mold and it lined up as far as coming together lengthwise, I attached the upper side panels to the transom first and bent it to the bow 1 foot at a time, it seemed to go together real nice, I wonder if I could measure from the tip of of the bow to the transom, or if I should even be concerned about it at this point?
Joe H

[ericsil]

What I was thinking was that the bow deck piece would give you the shape of the last couple feet of the hull and the desired angle at the bow. Alternately, you may be able to sight near the floor and see if the top edge of the hull makes a fair curve all the way to the bow, getting closer and closer to the floor, or tends to curve back upward for the last couple feet. A little variation here is no big deal. Several of us have proven that the boat will float whether or not the bow droops a little.

[Dougster]

What about a cable with a come-a-long from bow tip to stern. Just a little pull might lift the nose (considering her as right side up) and even tighten those side panels. Still, like Eric says, that's no big deal gap, and will disappear. Dunno if it's worth fooling with, cuz it looks pretty good to me, but I sure haven't built one. I have climbed around Eric's though, and let me tell you it's a fine boat.

Did all kinds of odd things hangin' my side panels Dougster

[ericsil]

I was looking at some of your earlier pictures. Since you are hard against the bow mold it must be pretty close to the right position. If there is nothing obvious after you check a little, I would slap on that fairing compound and go for it.