Cparkerc,
I think the rope seat is very comfortable. I've worn shorts and had no problems. I was thinking the same thing you were while building. The seat allows you to dry quickly if wet wading. The material is white oak, very stong and durable.
Thanks
Andrew
SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN****SPLASHED****
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Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
Andrew,
Thanks for the review, appreciate it. I really like how those seats look, time to get building! Too cold here in Colorado for epoxy work anyway.
Thanks again, have a good weekend.
Carrington
Thanks for the review, appreciate it. I really like how those seats look, time to get building! Too cold here in Colorado for epoxy work anyway.
Thanks again, have a good weekend.
Carrington
Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
Thanks for the replys Andrew and Bradley.SmokyMountain wrote:Daniel,I like the drift boat as well. Is that bondable UHMW on the bottom of that boat? If so I've got a couple of questions if you don't
mind.
Thanks. The bottom is Line X truck bed liner, sprayed on the bottom to about 4" above the chine of the boat. I have heard of UHMW (that is a high denisty plasitc?), but where someone had tacked it on. The problem was water in the seams and eventual replacement. (See the Montana Boat Builders forum)
Hyde has a G3 sole they put on their boat that's nice and durable. I have a buddy with one. You can beat the snot out of it with no damage. It's worth the money if purchasing.
Repair on the Line X is fairly simple. A little epoxy with some universal black and its as good as new. The only problem with the Line X is that if not applied smoothly it will bite a little going over rocks etc..
Andrew
I haven't had time to check out that site yet, but thanks for the link. While researching material for this purpose I was given the name of man who has developed a bondable UHMW. It's glued on with epoxy. I thought I had found someone I could ask about it.The problem was water in the seams and eventual replacement. (See the Montana Boat Builders forum)
Thanks again,
Daniel
Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
I have seen my share of drift boats in my years fly fishing the Bow in southern Alberta (before moving out to Toronto) that is by far the nicest I have seen. Beautiful.
I'll be watching your build as I hope to start my PH18 shortly after Christmas.
Have you made a decision on skeg/strakes/reverse chine?
Mark
I'll be watching your build as I hope to start my PH18 shortly after Christmas.
Have you made a decision on skeg/strakes/reverse chine?
Mark
My Son calls me "The Fish Whisperer" I love it !
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Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
Mark,I have seen my share of drift boats in my years fly fishing the Bow in southern Alberta (before moving out to Toronto) that is by far the nicest I have seen. Beautiful.
I'll be watching your build as I hope to start my PH18 shortly after Christmas.
Have you made a decision on skeg/strakes/reverse chine?
Thanks for the Complement on the drift boat.
As far as the skeg / strake / reverse chine... I'm will install a skeg and two strakes. I have to figure out which trailer I will buy before installing the strakes. There is a regional Shorelander distributor about 30 minutes from where I live. Any recomendation on trailer would be appreciated.
I probably won't do the reverse chines, but will install spray rails and sharpen the chine. Anybody have any recommendations / suggestions on how far they should go ?? I like Joel's fiberglass stake / chine method by using an angle as a mold.
As far as progress, I got the stringers drawn and cut this weekend.
I have to cut the notches after I butt join them. As far as notches, there was not a lot of guidance of how deep to cut in the bulkheads / stringers. I used the ratio of 75% of depth in the bulkheads and 25% in the stingers. That way the majority of the notch depth are in the bulkheads and not the stingers. I felt there needs to be a little bit of a notch in the stingers so it will act as a system. There seems to be varying opinions.
Andrew
Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
Andrew,
Congrad's on the first cut, your on your way now, I ended up not putting notches in my stringers, wish I would have to insure proper alignment, I like the 75%/25% idea.
Keep on posting pic's
Joe H
Congrad's on the first cut, your on your way now, I ended up not putting notches in my stringers, wish I would have to insure proper alignment, I like the 75%/25% idea.
Keep on posting pic's
Joe H
Completed: OD16, P19, FS14, V12 in progress
Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
I agree with you Andrew. One reason is when you flip and install them again you will have 3 peices of frame instead of 1 peice for each frame on those that are below the sole.
Tom
Tom
Good fishing and red skys at night sailors delight
C17ccx, Mirror Dinghy
C17ccx, Mirror Dinghy
Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
ciao
Last edited by Doc_Dyer on Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night
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Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
I've been playing around with locker configurations and have come up with a preliminary layout. The rod lockers will be a shallow box with spaces for the reels to hang down. I'll install tubes going fore and aft. The fore tube will be long enough for fly rods. I have modified the cockpit space by shortening it by about 2 feet for more deck space. I plan to make my own hatches with a gutter system like Bassmuns or something similar. Comments appreciated... Still cutting panels... family activities are working against me right now....
Andrew
Andrew
Re: SmokyMountain's PH18 Build in E. TN
ciao
Last edited by Doc_Dyer on Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:48 am, edited 1 time in total.
. sanded on a canoe, bought a used boat, stayed at a holiday inn last night
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