ThistleDew's AB23

[ThistleDewDayDreamin]

I have to admit though, Im not a fan of models in general. Unless its purpose is to demonstrate how the boat goes together (helpful to someone who cant see it on a computer screen)

Yeah, a model isn't like watching a real boat go together, that's for sure. Believe me, I would much rather be hard at the real build. But as my recovery is in the

And take it easy in your recovery, sometimes people find they get their "strength" back in a month or so
but stamina/resilience tends to take longer.....

Stage, I can't do that, besides I'm in NC where it was 9 degrees this morning. .

This "exercise" is as much for my mental health, and social interaction with like minded people, on the forum, as it is to build a model. I realize building the model isn't really nesesary, everything I've read / seen here, and the support of all these builders has me more than convinced the design does not need to be "proven" prior to a real build.

But I am gonna go cut up some cereal boxes That should please the wife at 5:30 tomorrow morning when she has breakfast

[tech_support]

Well, at 9 degrees, it about the only boat building I would be doing too

[boatman64]

I am also in the process of building a scale model. I bought the plans for the CS23 last year and I hope to begin building the real thing, if a few "uncertainties" at work get resolved....

I started the model boat recently to get all my questions worked out in reading the plans and to see how it all fits together. I really have learned a lot already. I used a 1/8 scale so the finished model will be approx. 36" long. I have all the molds cut out from 1/8" birch modelling plywood. For the hull I will use a very thin veneer wood that I was able to find on e-bay; its actually gaboon veneer aka okume. I'm not as far along as Thistle yet, but I was figuring on posting a few pictures of it going together. I guess I'll start a different thread for that, I don't want to hijack Thistle's discussion.

[ThistleDewDayDreamin]

Please do start a thread, and post where it is or it's name here for all of us to see. It would seem building models is almost as interesting as the real thing, especially in January It's good to see another model and all the insights you get from performing the exercise. I agree with your statement about learning a lot already. Post here anytime it seems relevant. To be sure we've derailed many a post here. They usually survive a hijack or two, so long as we keep on topic The cereal boxes were too small, I'm going for the garment boxes she's got in the back of her closet. Just some old furs and a 28 year old wedding dress in there, certainly I have a better use for the cardboard at the moment.

[ksm330]

Door skin is a thin veneer of wood, sometimes in plys, sometimes one ply. It is relatively cheap (on average around $7 - $11 a sheet, 4' X 8' down here). It is used to literally "skin" a door on a hollow frame. There are different thicknesses produced. It is used extensively in marine fabrication for its use to make templates and models. We use it mostly for making templates of decks to create teak & rubber or teak & holly panels that can be assembled and cut to fit out of the boat, then glued in place. Saves a lot of time over cutting and fitting each plank. We generally will rip 2" - 3" wide strips, 4' long. cut them to length and hot glue pieces together around the perimeter of the deck to make a template. now you have a rigid template that you can take to the shop. we lay that on a pre-assembled teak & rubber panel and cut out the section. We can add margin boards or king planks all on the work table, then glue it in place on a sub-floor or sometimes right over the non-skid depending on the application. I have always bought it at our local marine wood shop (seafarer marine) but I am sure it is available at most lumber yards, wood craft stores and most marine wood supply houses. I haven't looked for it at any of the big boxes, so I don't know if they carry it. If you can't find it locally, I believe you can get it shipped in from Seafarer, but that would negate the cheap cost.

[ThistleDewDayDreamin]

ksm330

(on average around $7 - $11 a sheet, 4' X 8' down here)

Now I understand about the 'door skins' Thanks. BTW where is "down here" ksm330?

I was able to get some 3/32 balsa that will do the trick. I've cut and glued the bottom hull panels, and the hull sides. I am learning a lot, like if you can't hold it and position it, and glue it or pin it down with 3/32 balsa, you'ld better be looking at your strong back / supports and shims and methods before you try it with a 24' long hull section for real.

My hull sides did not stay where I thought I put them Since it's a balsa model, I can fix it. Since it's supposed to rain for 3 solid days, I guess I've got the time. Anyway, I'll post some pictures later, should be worth a grin for you guys. For anyone new to this stuff, even if you aren't shut in by weather or anything else. This silly little exercise in all things bateau is turning out to be very educational. At the very least, there is some insight to be had about the particular plan you intend to build. These little 'ahh sh!t's I'm learning about now can be avoided when there is real epoxy kicking of in a pan while I try to figure out why this or that didn't stay where I thought I put it. For those of you who've built one or three of these for real,... got any plans for the first part of spring?

[ksm330]

Down here is the Fort Lauderdale area. I live in Coral Springs which is NW of Fort Lauderdale.

[ThistleDewDayDreamin]

Ahh OK, I know exactly where Coral Springs is, I lived there and in West Boca for a couple of years back in the early 90's. Worked for a company in Boca / Deerfield beach called Sensormatic. Yeah I know exactly where you are.

[ThistleDewDayDreamin]

My hull sides did not stay where I thought I put them Since it's a balsa model, I can fix it. Since it's supposed to rain for 3 solid days, I guess I've got the time. Anyway, I'll post some pictures later, should be worth a grin for you guys.

I fixed it. ( repaired photo to come )

I've started looking at skegs and lifting strakes, and I have some questions on hydrodynamics, build methods, best practices, whatever you want to call it about how these affect handling what is the best way to shape them, how should they be shaped and oriented. You may notice I've added the skeg ( not shaped yet )

I think I get the idea about the tracking and strakes lifting and grabbing in corners to prevent "skidding", but what is the experience or design elements that make these work the best without adding additional unnecessary drag. And before anyone says anything about design. I am not looking to change or add or modify the design. I just want to understand what other builders have found worked or didn't for them, and to understand the part these play when the boat manuvers in different sea conditions. Like what happens if the strakes are at different angles or too big?

Ive looked at many builds posted here, reviewed the shop manual, and took at look at some production boats in regard to skegs and strakes. What I've found so far is that there are as many ways to do this as there are people doing it. So at the risk of starting a debate, I ask for experienced builders to comment and toss in their opinions. I haven't built a boat, so I can guess, I need to hear from people that have actually built these, or fixed them, and / or have gotten them wet and seen for themselves how the boat acted.

The chine and strakes on this key west seem to have a revers angle on them like the not only lift, but actually tunnel water, trapping under the lip of the chine and strake. What's the idea or advantage? Dissadvantage ?





These maintain a perfectly horizontal bottom plane (which actually means the mold that made them twisted as it came around the bow and under the boat )



Notice how thin the chine is at the stern here. Does a designer modify or take into consideration what's going on the back of the boat when he designs the chine section at the transom? In this case we see twins mounted on a bracket, does this affect the design. If not considered or added to the design after it leaves the designer, how much risk is a builder taking in adversely affecting the handling he adds a bracket, for that matter what if he adds an armstrong vs. somthing else, some other bracket manufacturer? Again, I know at this point for me this is all academic. But I've got the engineering mind. Just wanna know how it's supposed to work.



Anyone care to throw in their $.02 here on the points labeled A - E?
What have you guys used, on what size boats? I'm "building" the AB23 so I'm also wondering about the size of these elements.

[jacquesmm]

Please post technical questions in the "Power Boats" section.

The chines on fiberglass production boats are needed for stiffness, not only to deflect sprays. Single skin fiberglass is flimsy compared to our material, that is why you see spray rails and strakes all over production boats.
In our boats, we use them to deflect sprays and add dynamic transverse stability.
You make them as you want.
An horizontal lower edge will deflect sprays but if you prefer a slight down angle, build them that way.
It is even easier to build them that way, especially if you start with a square section that you cut along the diagonal. When you glue it on the topside panel, it automatically produces a down angle.

The strakes have the same function plus, they separate water to reduce drag . At the moderate speeds for which the boat is designed, their exact shape is unimportant.

I believe that I show typical sections and sizes on the plans.