Majorgator's XF20 - SPLASHED :)

[stickystuff]

Knowing where you will be fishing I would hit it with some 220 or 350 then roll on a couple of coats of epoxy/graphite powder mix. I live in the same area of you and know the oyster bars are tough on hull bottoms. The epoxy will seek its own level and leave you a shiny black finish. don't worry about the UV protection because its on the bottom.

[majorgator]

Ken - Do you have a good source for the graphite? I did a quick glance at the online store here, but didn't see any. Does the graphite make it stronger/more durable? Thanks!

Seth

[Larry B]

Ken - Do you have a good source for the graphite? I did a quick glance at the online store here, but didn't see any. Does the graphite make it stronger/more durable? Thanks!

Seth

http://boatbuildercentral.com/products.php?cat=13

[majorgator]

ahhh Thank you kindly Larry!

Ken, how much should I purchase to get a good even coat along that big bottom? About how much extra epoxy do you think I'll use?

seth

[majorgator]

I have not put the wooden battens on for the rub-rail yet. Though its called out on the plans, and I've heard that its considered "structural" is it really necessary if I plan on building walk-around gunwales, full decks, and a rubber rub-rail?

seth

[TomW]

Yes mg the rubrails are structural on these boats. They can however with approval from the designer be replaced with an inwale of the same size. But that means cutting a notch out of each frame for the inwale so you can get the 3/4" x 1 1/2" or what ever size designated into the notch. 2nd just bring all your side decks out over the wood rubrails.

Tom

[gk108]

I wouldn't eliminate the rubrails, even with walk around gunwales. Tom's suggestion of moving that structure inboard and building it as a sheer clamp is about the best way keep the clean look on the hull sides and still provide strength. Think of worst case like hitting a dock piling midway between frames. Without a rail or sheer clamp, that force is localized and the deck/hull corner will tend to take the shape of the piling. Hit it hard enough and it will keep the shape of the piling. With a laminated frame behind that corner, forces are distributed to the frames and adjacent structure much more evenly. In other words, it is a vital element to monocoque construction.

[majorgator]

Thanks Tom. That's the info I needed. I'll go ahead and proceed with the wooden rub-rail. I wasn't suggesting that I didn't want to do it, but just wanted to make sure it was necessary. By doing the rub-rail now it will allow me to finish off the sides and paint it before I flip it. I assume that the rub-rail is just epoxy-glued to the side panels?

Now, if I could only figure out how much epoxy and graphite I need for the bottom.

Seth

[majorgator]

Thanks to you too, GK. You were responding at the same time I was. Great information.

Seth

[TomW]

Seth the 8oz they sell in the store should be enough graphite, mix it 2parts resin, 1part hardener, 1part graphite, for a 25% blend. Sift the graphite to get rid of any clumping. As far as epoxy you want 2-3 coats. How much did you use wetting out the cloth and go from there it won't take that near that much of course. I don't know if anyone has ever figured it out by sq ft per gallon. Maybe you can be the first and have the answer for the next guy that asks.

Tom