OB19 in SW FL

[cape man]

Wade,

Looking good man! Like the pic with the ply in the back of the truck with a nice glass of home brew. Remember...5 gallons of home brew per 3 gallons of epoxy. A lower ratio and you are just not having fun. A higher ratio and the skeg gets glued on catty whompus. Coffee and epoxy fixes everything....

Will be watching intently. That will be a nice boat for your fishing down there.

[wadestep]

So here's a snag. At first I thought it wouldnt' be a problem, but now I'd like to know the consensus of people wiser than me in the ways of epoxy:
When joining the side panels, i was joining them in the driveway. well, maybe a pebble or something got under one unnoticed, and the panels are off just a little bit. Not much, and I don't mind fairing it out. But I'm worried about the 'glass tape. do you think it is strong enough as is, or do I need to fix? Remember the boat is already stitched and glued up, no glass cloth on yet.
This is along the side of the hull, not much plywood bending happening here:



Index finger included for scale. I've got 2 options I know of
1) leave it alone, fair it out, put an extra biaxial tape under the cloth on the inside after some sanding.
2) hand-plane the glass off of the hull (I've already tack-welded the backside of the joint) and re-do the joint.

I'd rather do #1 if it's strong enough, but I sure don't want the joint popping apart when I hit a wave. On the other hand, biax tape with problem on outside, glass cloth on outside, biax tape on inside no problem, and glass cloth on inside (option 1 above) seems pretty strong to me. What do those with experience say?

[wadestep]

5 gallons of home brew per 3 gallons of epoxy. A lower ratio and you are just not having fun. A higher ratio and the skeg gets glued on catty whompus.

That's great, I'm glad you've figured out the ratio for me . Otherwise, I'd be thinking "Now was that 4 beers, or 4 pumps of resin? I'm sure it was 4 of something!"

Maybe another rule is no dispensing epoxy after 3 homebrews. The math gets fuzzy. Even if it's only counting to 4.

Of course, this rule could greatly limit my available boat building time...

[cape man]

Wait for another opinion or two, but I think you'll be fine. I assume the OB19 calls for glass on the out side of the sides, and you'll probably want a light piece on the inside to prevent checking. Add to this all the strengtheniing that comes from the sole, bulkheads and gunwales, and that joint should never fail.

[TomW]

I wouldn't worry about it. It looks like less than a 1/16" on 1/4" plywood. The tape is what holds the panels together and provides the strength to the joint. You'll also as Craig pointed out have 12oz biax all the way up the side on the outside and can put some 4oz on the inside if you want.

You do have a very little bit of epoxy starving where the white line is, but I doubt you could bet any epoxy into there at this late stage. You could try if you want.

Tom

[wadestep]

Alright guys, thanks for the info. I'll reinforce it from the inside after the flip, and call it good. I'll also re-wet it out well before glassing the outside.

[wadestep]

Seems to be that the most recent purchase is always my new favorite tool. For a while there it was the power hand planer. That was pretty cool. However, since last Mon, now my favorite is the 4.5" Harbor Freight grinder, with the 80 grit Norton sanding attatchment. At first, I was thinking "how's this going to be any better than a sanding wheel on a drill?"

Now, I'm a believer. I put a radius on the glued-up chines the other day. The grinder must have saved me 5-6 hours compared to a 1/4-sheet sander. probably 2-3 hours vs a belt sander. My New favorite tool, plus it is fun making such a dusty mess!

[wadestep]

Later this week I'm going to cut the hole for the shoot-through-hull transducer. Some things I've figured out with the SEARCH button(not quite as easy as the EASY button )
1) Have to drill about a 4" hole now before glassing the outside, then plug the hole from the inside, then fill with epoxy, glass, silica, and maybe a little wood flour
2) have to put it somewhere accessable. I'm guessing that's going to be beneath the motorwell. Any tips on placement would be much appreciated. I understand not to put in centerline, due to the future skeg, and yes to put in the the hull under the motorwell for access, but any other suggestions?

should it be all the way back towards the transom, or 1-3' forward of that?

[tech_support]

sorry I missed this............ You should grind out the air bubble.

It would actually be stronger to have only one layer with no air voids than several layers of glass over the air pocket

If you just glass over it, the problem compounds itself. You can probably jut cut it with a utility blade, then put a strip of tape over top.

[wadestep]

Bummer. Oh well, at least it's not too late and I have another use for my new favorite tool. Not sure if I should be happy or not... If the Shinester says, so shall you do. I know what I'll be doing this afternoon.

Thanks for the reply.